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Woman's  pilgrimage  to  the  Holy  Lan 


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WOMAN'S   PILGRIMAGE 


HOLY   LAND; 


PLEASANT    DATS    ABROAD. 

BEING  NOTES  OF  A  TOUR  THROUGH  EUROPE  AND  THE  EAST. 

Mrs.  STEPHEN  M.  GRISWOLD. 


WITH    NUMEROUS    ILLUSTRATIONS. 


SULTAN  S   CIPHER. 


HARTFORD: 

J.    B.    BURR    &c   HYDE 

1871. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1871,  by 

STEPHEN  M.  GRISWOLD, 
In  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington. 


Case,  Locewood  &  Brainard,  """^     •O— 

PRIXTERS  AND  BOOKBIXDERS.  O^    ^  ^-/ 

Cor.  Pearl  and  Trumbull  Streets,  C  V,,^^ 

Hartford,  Conn.  ^-^ 


TO     MY    AFFECTIONATE    SON 

FREDERICK, 
I  Be4icate  ^hi$  "Volume* 


INTRODUCTORY  NOTE. 


OOKS  upon  travels  will  be  written  to  the  end  of 

^  It  has  been  my  privilege,  in  company  with  my 
husband,  to  visit  most  of  the  palaces,  cathe- 
drals, and  galleries  of  art  in  Europe,  and  the  mosques 
and  ruins  in  the  East.  The  route  of  our  journey  was 
through  England,  France,  Switzerland  and  Italy,  where 
we  joined  the  memorable  "  Quaker  City  excursion  party  '^ 
to  the  East. 

We  remained  with  them  about  three  months,  during 
which  time  we  visited  Constantinople,  the  Black  Sea, 
Sebastopol,  Smyrna,  Ephesus,  the  Holy  Land,  and  Alex- 
andria, Egypt.  There  we  parted  from  them,  and  taking 
one  of  the  Austrian  Lloyd  steamers  to  Corfu,  from  thence 
we  sailed  through  the  Adriatic  Sea  to  Trieste,  visited  the 
great  Cave  of  Adelsberg  in  Austria,  and  crossed  the  Styrian 
Alps  to  Vienna. 


Vi  INTRODUCTORY  NOTE. 

We  returned  through  Central  Europe,  down  the  Rhine 
and  across  the  German  Sea,  to  Scotland  and  Ireland. 

It  was  our  good  fortune  to  see  most  of  the  crowned 
heads  of  the  Old  World,  including  the  Queens  of  England 
and  Prussia,  Napoleon  III.,  Eugenie,  the  Pope  of  Rome, 
the  Sultan,  and  the  Viceroy  of  Egypt. 

In  company  with  the  excursionists  we  visited  the  Em- 
peror and  Empress  of  Russia  at  their  summer  residence 
on  the  shore  of  the  Black  Sea. 

During  the  journey  I  kept  a  daily  record  of  passing 
scenes  and  incidents,  not  intending  it  for  publication ;  but 
at  the  urgent  solicitation  of  many  friends,  I  have  con- 
sented to  publish  it,  trusting  that  its  perusal  may  prove  a 
pleasure  to  the  reader,  as  its  wi^iting  was  to  tlie  author. 

G. 


PUBLISHERS'    PREFACE. 


^<.  1^^  *^^^  preparation  of  this  interesting  and  instruc- 
^^  '^J  tive  volume,  the  authoress  was  peculiarly  fitted  by 
^y^   her  %  previous  culture,  for  making  the  best  use  of 
the  singularly  fortunate  circumstances  which  con- 
spired to  give  her  an   opportunity  to  enjoy  advantages 
which  do  not  come  within  the  reach  of  the  ordinary  travel- 
er.     Starting  from  New  York  and   landing  in  England, 
her  social  position  gave  her  access  to  many  things  which 
are  out  of  the  reach  of  tlie  general  tourist  in  that  aristo- 
cratic island.     Passing  through  England,  France,  Switzer- 
land, and  Italy,  she  then  joined  the  excursion  party  of  the 
Quaker     City,   and    remaining   with    them   about   three 
months,  visited  Constantinople,  the  Black  Sea,  Sebastopol, 
S.nyrna,  Ephesus,  the  Holy  Land,  Alexandria,  and  Egypt. 
Then  leaving  tlie  Quaker   City  party  on  their  return,  she 
went   to   Corfu,   through   the   Adriatic   to   Trieste     and 
through  Austria,  crossing  the   Styrian  Alps  to   Vienna. 
Returning  through  Central  Europe  she  passed  down  the 


yiii  PUBLISHERS'  PREFACE. 

Rhine,  and  crossed  the  German  Ocean  to  Scotland.  After 
a  tour  through  the  interesting  scenes  which  the  magic  of 
Sir  Walter  Scott's  pen  has  made  household  words  through- 
out the  world,  she  passed  through  Ireland,  and  took  a 
steamer  at  Cork  for  New  York.  In  as  brief  a  sketch  as 
this,  nothing  but  the  barest  outline  of  her  route  can  be 
given.  For  the  descriptions  of  the  interesting  scenes  she 
passed  through,  and  the  accounts  of  the  distinguished  per- 
sons she  met :  for  the  womanly  insight  into  the  social  con- 
dition of  the  nations  she  visited  and  her  sketches  of  their 
history  and  political  organization,  the  reader  must  con- 
sult the  volume  itself.  It  is  possible  liere  only  to  assure 
them  that  they  will  never  regret  so  instructive  and  inter- 
esting a  use  of  their  leisure  time. 


ILLUSTRATIONS, 


Quaker  City  off  the  Coast  of  Stria. — Frontispiece. 

The  Royal"  Exchange,  London,        -         -         -         -  27 

Reception  Day  at  Buckixcham  Palace,     -        -  30 

Tomb  of  Napoleon, 38 

FONTAINEBLEAU,      FrANCK, 49 

Palace  of  St.  Cloud, 53 

Colosseum,  Rome,  .---.-  lOO 

Castle  of  St.  Anoelo,  Rome,  (text\         •         -        -  103 

Italian  Peasantry,       -....--  HO 

Naples  Bay,        -         -         -         -         -         -         -         -  113 

Naples  "Wagon, -        -  117 

Neapolitan  Flower  Girl,         -         -         -        -        -119 

Eruption  of  Vesuvius,  _         .        .         -         -  127 

r. 

Turkish  Araba, "     -        -  150 

Turkish  Boys,        - -        -  156 

Mosque  of  Sultan  Achmet,  Constantinople,  -  160 

Muezzin  Calling  to  Prayer,        -        -        -        -  164 


X  ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Whirling  Dervishes, 168 

Rock-cut  Church  of  Inkerman,           -        =        -  171 

Odessa,     Russia,         -        - 175 

Russian  Droskt,  (text), 177 

Merchant  of  Smyrna,  (text), 196 

CoL^'TRY  Mosque  in  Asia  Minor,         -        -        -  194 

Arab  School  Boy,  (text),           -        -        -        -      .  -  207 

Chain  of  Lebanon,        -        -        -        -*-        -  212 

Woman  of  Jaffa,       -        -         -   .     -        -        -        -  221 

NijEM,  OUR  Dragoman, 226 

A  Turkish  House  in  Jerusalem,      -        -        -        .  239 

Holy  Sepulchre,            .        -        -        =        ~        .  246 

Interior  of  the  Mosque  Omar,        -        =        -        _  257 

Jerusalem,     --------  265 

Bethlehem,              -         -         -         -         -        -         -      "  281 

Sacred  Grotto,  (Bethlehem),          -        -        -        -  285 

Dead  Sea, "      -         -         -  287 

Pilgrim's  Ford — River  Jordan,        .        .        -        -  297 

Viceroy's  Palace, 324 

Grape  Gathering  in  Austria,      .        -         -         -  342 

Scene  on  the  Danube,       -         -        -        -    .    -         -  346 

CONA^ERSATIONSHAUS,  BADEnBaDEN,            -            -            -  366 

Strasbourg  Cathedral,             .        -        -        _        -  372 


CONTENTS. 


I                CHAPTER  I. 
Over  the  Sea, jy 

CHAPTER  n. 
England  and  her  Queen, 21 

CHAPTER  HT.  ^ 

France, .-•..        33 

* 

CHAPTER  ly. 
Paris  and  Napoleon,      ----..         33 

CHAPTER  V. 
Switzerland,    ----...,         52 

CHAPTER  VI. 
Crossing  the  Alps,  ---•••         59 

CHAPTER  Vn. 
The  Midnight   Ride,        ---»o«         (34 


^[[  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  Vin. 

Italy,        -        -        -        -        -        -        --        -68 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Venice,  "City  of  the  Sea,"       _        _        -        »        -       73 

CHAPTER  X. 
Milan  and  Genoa, 80 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Leghorn  and  Florence,  -----        85 

CHAPTER  Xn. 

Rome,         .--.-..--        93 

CHAPTER  XIII. 
From  Rome  to  Naples, 1.07 

CHAPTER  XIV. 
Vesuvius  and  Pompeii, 126 

CHAPTER  XV. 
The  Pilgrims, 135 

CHAPTER  XVI. 
Athens,     --- 140 

CHAPTER  XVII. 
Constantinople,        -        -        -        -        -        -        -      145 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 

The  Sultan  and  the  Mosque,        -        -        -        -      150 


CONTENTS.  xiii 

CHAPTER  XrX. 
On  the  Black  Sea, -168 

CHAPTER  XX. 

Visiting  the  Emperor  of  Russia,  -        -        -       179 

CHAPTER  XXI. 
Our  Stay  at  Yalta,        _-».--       185 

CHAPTER  XXII. 

S3IYRNA, 191 

\ 

CHAPTER  XXin. 
Ephesus  and  its  Ruins, 199 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 
From  Smyrna  to  Syria, ^^^ 

CHAPTER  XXV. 
Lebanon, ^^^ 

CHAPTER  XXVI. 
Jaffa, 216 

CHAPTER  XXVII. 
Starting  on  the  Pilgrimage,  -         -        -        -       224 

CHAPTER  XXVin. 
Going  up  to  Jerusalem,  _        _        -        .        «       232 

CHAPTER  XXIX. 

The  City  of  the  Great  King,         -        -         -        -       236 


Xiv  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  XXX, 
Within  the  Holy  City,  .        -        »        «        .       242 

CHAPTER  XXXI. 
The  People  of  Jerusalem, 249 

CHAPTER  XXXII. 
The  Temple, -       255 

CHAPTER  XXXni. 
The  Turkish  Family, 262 

CHAPTER  XXXIV. 
Outside  the  Walls, 269 

CHAPTER  XXXV. 
Mount  of  Qlives  and  Bethany,     .        -        -        _       275 

CHAPTER  XXXVI. 
Bethlehem, 280 

CHAPTER  XXXVII. 
The  Dead  Sea, 288 

CHAPTER  XXXVIII. 
River  Jordan,  -        -        --        -        -        .296 

CHAPTER  XXXIX. 
Bedouin  Arabs,        -        - ^^^ 

CHAPTER  XL. 
Return  to  the  Ship.        -,----       309 


CONTENTS.  XV 

CHAPTER  XI I. 
Egypt,       -        - 3l4 

CHAPTER  XLH. 

Leaving  the  Pilgrims,     -         -        -         -         -        -       322 

CHAPTER  XLHI. 
The  Voyage, 329 

CHAPTER  XLIV. 
Cave  of  Adelsberg, 336 

^          CHAPTER  XLV. 
Vienna, -        -       344 

CHAPTER  XLVL 
Salzburg  and  Munich, 353 

CHAPTER  XLVIL 
Baden  Baden, 3g2 

CHAPTER  XLVm. 
Strasbourg, -       373 

CHAPTER  XLIX. 
DoAVN  THE  Rhine, 373 

CHAPTER  L. 
Cologne, 388 

CHAPTER  LI. 
Brussels  and  Waterloo,        -        -  .        -       395 


Xvi  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  LH. 
Antwerp  and  the  North  Sea,  -        .        -        .       4q3 

CHAPTER  LHL 
Scotland, 409 

CHAPTER  LIV. 
From  Scotland  and  Ireland,  home,        ...       418 


'     CHAPTER    I. 

OVER    THE    SEA. 

>S  we  cannot  cross  the  ocean  in  an  American 
j>   steamship,  we   take  passage  on  a  steamer 
carrying  the  English  flag.       The  wharf  is 
crowded  with  people,  bidding  good-bye  to 
their  friends,  who  are    about  departing  on  a  voy- 
age to  the  Old  World,  along  with  us.     Among  the 
crowd  are  our  friends  who  are  waitinsr  to  wave 
their  last   adieu.      The  anchor  is  up,  our  moorings 
unloosed,  the  bell  strikes,  the  ship's  gun  sounds  the 
farewell,   and  we  sail    out  of  New  York  harbor. 
Now  come  the  mingled  thoughts  of  pleasure  and 
sadness,  with  memories  of  those  left  behind ;  but  I 
am  about  to   realize  what  I  have  always  ardently 
desired,  a  visit  to  foreign  lands. 

I  am  roused  from  my  reverie  by  the  sound  of  the 


18  OVER  THE  SEA. 

gong  summoning  the  passengers  to  dinner.  Here 
we  gather,  both  young  and  old,  about  one  hundred 
and  fifty  persons,  and  how  full  of  life  a.nd  anticipa- 
tion they  seem !  Seated  opposite  is  an  English 
clergyman  and  his  family.  He  is  a  specimen  of  a 
strict  minister  of  the  church  of  England,  and  is 
already  making  friends  among  his  fellow  passengers. 
His  wife  is  a  portly  old  lady,  weighing  not  less  than 
three  hundred  pounds.  We  have  on  board  several 
clergymen;  among  them  a  Catholic  bishop  on  his 
way  to  Eome,  also  a  noted  General,  and  his  wife, 
who  are  on  their  way  to  Italy  to  spend  the  coming 
winter. 

Immediately  after  crossing  the  bar  at  Sandy 
Hook,  the  steamer  commenced  rolling  and  madly 
plunging,  upsetting  things  generally.  A  heavy 
northeast  gale  continued  two  days  and  nights,  dur- 
ing which  it  was  impossible  for  any  of  the  passen- 
gers to  remain  on  deck.  After  the  third  day,  it 
cleared  beautifully,  and  the  ocean  seemed  at  rest. 

The  days  passed  on  much  after  the  fashion  of 
the  others,  until  on  the  afternoon  of  the  eleventh 


OVER  TEE  SEA.  19 

day  out,  land  came  in  sight.  How  joyfully  that  cry 
sounded  over  the  ship!  Our  glasses  were  brought 
in  requisition  for  a  fairer  view;  and  our  Captain 
informed  us  that  we  were  nearing  the  Highlands  of 
Galway,  Ireland.  The  sun  was  setting  in  all  his 
glory,  reflecting  a  red  and  purple  hue  over  the  sea. 
A  lady,  standing  beside  me,  appeared  transfixed,  so 
glorious  was  the  scene.  She  was  probably  thinking 
'  of  the  loved  parents  whom  she  was  about  to  visit, 
not  having  seen  them  for  twenty-five  years. 

A  prayer  meeting  was  called  on  deck,  and  all 
joined  in  singing  Old  Hundred,  in  thankfulness  for 
our  safety.  Our  old  English  lady  companion  was 
also  impressed  with  the  thoughts  of  nearing  home, 
for  later  in  the  evening,  she  and  her  daughter 
were  singing  very  sweetly  "  Home  Sweet  Home." 

The  next  morning  we  arrived  at  Queenstown  ; 
and  after  landing  passengers  and  mails  for  Ireland, 
we  steamed  up  St.  George's  channel  having  Wales 
on  our  right  hand,  soon  passing  Holyhead.  We 
were  awakened  very  early  next  morning,  and  found 
ourselves  at   Liverpool.     Hastening   on   deck,  we 


20  OVER  THE  SEA. 

could  see  nothing  but  a  vast  quantity  of  masts  and 
ships.  On  our  steamer  all  was  confusion,  from  the 
general  preparing  to  land.  We  walked  down  the 
gang-plank  one  by  one,  where  officers  stood  ready 
to  examine  our  baggage.  This  being  found  all 
right,  we  were  allowed  to  pass  through  the  great 
iron  gateway.  Very  soon,  seated  in  an  English 
cab,  we  are  driven  to  the  Alexandra  hotel,  where 
we  rest  awhile  after  our  voyage. 


CHAPTER    II. 

ENGLAND    AND    HER    QUEEN. 

|HE  first  thing   we  notice  is  the  substantial 

[MI   manner  in  which  everything  is  built. 
^^^^       Liverpool  is  a   busy  city,   and   contains 

•^^^niany  fine  buildings,  the  most  elegant  being 
the  new  Exchange. 

Of  course,  we  must  patronize  one  of  those  queer 
carriages  called  ''Hansoms,"  and  drive  along  the 
quay. 

Some  years  ago  there  was  an  effort  made  to  intro- 
duce the  Hansom  cab  in  New  York,  and  doubtless 
most  of  the  people  there  have  seen  them ;  but  many 
of  our  readers  might  like  a  description.  It  ia  a 
small  carriage  on  two  wheels,  the  driver  sitting  on 
a  high  seat  behind.  The  reins  pass  over  the  top  of 
the  carriage  and  fall  down  over  its  front  to  the 
horses'  head.  A  window  closes  in  front  of  the  pas- 
senger, through  which  he  has  a  fine  view  of  all  that 
is  passing   in   the   streets;  even  though  the  rain 


22  ENGLAND  AND  HER  QUEEN. 

should  be  falling,  he  feels  cozy  and  well  protected 
though  his  poetic  dreams  may  be  disturbed  by  the 
unobstructed  view  of  the  wretched  Rosinante  which 
too  often  does  the  service  for  the  Hansom  cabman. 

Thirty  miles  by  rail  and  we  reach  Leeds.  Here 
we  find  the  most  noted  woolen  manufactories  in  Eng- 
land. Not  stopping  long,  we  continue  on  to  Man- 
chester, a  cheerful  looking  city,  where  we  are 
politely  guided  through  the  cotton  manufactories. 
The  Exchange,  during  business  hours,  presents  an 
animated  scene,  which  is  well  worth  a  visit. 

The  Derby  chapel  in  the  old  Cathedral  is  inter- 
esting. It  was  built  by  an  Earl  of  Derby,  and  one 
of  them  is  there  buried. 

Seated  in  a  comfortable  railway  carriage,  we  ar- 
rive, sooner  than  I  expected,  at  Rowsley  station, 
where  those  wishing  to  visit  Chatsworth  Palace 
and  Haddon  Hall,  stop.  Here  I  have  my  first 
view  of  an  English  inn.  How  often  I  have 
read  of  such  places,  and  associated  with  them 
a  bustling  landlord,  or  landlady,  stage  coaches 
rattling  up  to  the  door,  and  luggage  being  taken 


ENGLAND  AND  HER  QUEEN.  23 

in.  Well,  we  did  not  enter  this  way,  but  drove  up 
quietly  to  the  quiet  old  inn.  Over  the  door  was  the 
date  when  the  house  was  built,  1652.  Above  the 
date  is  the  coat  of  arms  of  the  Duke  of  Rutland,  as 
this  was  formerly  his  shooting-box.  Our  agreeable 
hostess  having  provided  us  with  a  fine  team,  we 
proceed  to  Haddon  Hall.  This  huge  pile  of  build- 
ings, massively  irregular  in  architecture,  once  be- 
longed to  the  Yernon  family,  but  in  consequence 
of  the  runaway  marriage  of  Dorethea  Vernon  and 
Sir  John  Manners,  it  fell  to  the  Duke  of  Rutland. 
It  is  now  a  romantic  old  ruin,  battered  and  worn  by 
the  elements.  The  whole  pile  is  surrounded  with 
fine  old  trees  that  spread  in  every  direction,  rich 
with  associations  of  past  ages,  and  fresh  with  the 
most  luxuriant  growth  of  nature. 

Within  is  the  banqueting  hall,  the  bed  of  Queen 
Elizabeth,  the  state  chairs  used  during  the  reign  of 
Henry  the  Seventh,  and  over  the  fire  place  in  the 
private  dining  room  are  the  words,  "Dread  God 
and  honor  the  King."  When  we  were  again  seated 
in  the  carriage  I  felt  amply  repaid  for  my  wander- 


24  ENGLAND  AND  HER  QUEEN. 

iiigs  througli  this  ancient  hall.     It  was  tlie  first  cas- 
tellated ruin  which  I  had  ever  visited. 

Going  through  a  pleasant  country,  and  stopping 
at  the  little  town  of  Bakewell  to  purchase  pictures, 
we  soon  entered  the  grounds  of  the  Duke  of  Devon- 
shire's palace,  said  to  be  the  handsomest  private 
residence  in  the  world  On  these  grounds  is  the 
tower  where  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  was  confined 
thirteen  years.  In  the  park  adjoining  the  palace 
are  thousands  of  deer.  The  conservatories  are  very 
extensive.  Growing  in  profusion  are  pine  apples, 
bananas,  oranges,  figs,  lemons,  and  ginger,  also  many 
exotic  plants,  and  flowers  from  India,  Egypt,  and 
South  America,  among  them  the  marvelous  Victoria 
Regia,  one  of  a  genus  of  water  plants  named  after 
the  queen.  It  is  a  native  of  S.  America.  Its  leaves 
from  three  to  five  feet  across,  have  a  rim  some 
four  or  five  inches  high ;  and  its  white  flowers  are 
almost  three-quarters  of  a  yard  in  diameter.  The 
interior  of  the  palace  is  certainly  beyond  descrip- 
tion.    Paintings  from  eminent  artists,  statuary  from 


THE  ROYAL  EXCHANGE,   LONDON. 


ENGLAND  AND  HER  QUEEN.  27 

the  most  distinguished  sculptors  of  past  ages  are 
gathered  within  its  walls. 

The  Duke  owns  two  other  estates  in  England,  be- 
sides a  house  in  London  and  a  large  property  in  Ire- 
land. His  income  is  said  to  be  over  five  thousand 
dollars  a.  day ;  and  yet,  while  there  is  such  great 
wealth  in  England,  there  is  also  great  poverty  and 
wretchedness ;  within  a  few  miles  of  these  elegant 
mansions,  and  vast  landed  estates,  are  thousands  of 
human  beings  who  are  living  in  want  and  misery. 

From  Newstead  Abbey,  Derby,  and  Nottingham 
we  find  ourselves  at  Windsor  Castle,  arriving 
about  ten  o'clock  in  the  morning,  in  company  with 
a  lady  and  gentlemen  of  the  Queen's  household., 
who  escorted  us  through  the  castle,  and  very  kindly 
afforded  us  an  opportunity  to  see  the  Queen,  also 
Princesses  Louise,  Beatrice,  and  Prince  Leopold. 
The  Queen  is  quite  plain  and  unpretending  in  her  ap- 
pearance, medium  height,  with  a  countenance  beam- 
ing with  intelligence  and  love.  She  was  neatly  at- 
tired in  mourning.  The  people  revere  Yictoria, 
but  since  the  death  of  her  husband  she  has  remained 


28  ENGLAND  AND  HER  QUEEN. 

SO  secluded  as  to  givemucli  dissatisfaction  to  the  aris- 
tocracy. We  feel  deeply  obliged  to  our  friends  for 
tlie  pleasure  which  they  have  rendered  us  this  day, 
remembering  that  by  their  aid  we  were  enabled  to 
see  England's  Queen.  Bidding  them  adieu  we  enter 
St.  George's  chapel  and  attend  service.  The 
chapel  remains  the  same  as  when  the  Prince  of 
Wales  was  married. 

An  hour's  ride  brought  us  to  London,  where  we 
remained  many  days  visiting  the  various  places  of 
note  in  and  around  the  city.  Among  them  St. 
Paul's  Cathedral,  Westminster  Abbey,  the  Royal 
Exchange,  Buckingham  Palace,  Houses  of  Parlia- 
ment, Thames  Tunnel,  Tower  of  London,  and  the 
matchless.  Sydenham ;  also  parks  and  gardens,  of 
which  there  are  a  great  number. 

The  Royal  Exchange  is  one  of  the  most  interest- 
ing monuments  of  London.  Sir  Thomas  Gresham, 
financial  agent  of  Queen  Elizabeth  and  of  her  suc- 
cessor, saw,  in  his  frequent  borrowing  excursions  to 
Antwerp  and  other  cities  of  the  Low  Countries, 
then  the  financial  rulers  of  the  world's  commerce, 


ENGLAND  AND  HER  QUEEN.  3 2 

the  importance  of  freeing  England  from  her  depen- 
dence upon  these  countries.  The  first  exchange 
he  built  at  his  own  expense  and  presented  it  to  the 
city  of  London.  That  was  burned  in  1838,  and 
the  present  Exchange,  the  proud  symbol  of  Eng- 
land's commercial  dominance,  stands  on  its  site. 

Buckingham  Palace,  the  town  residence  of  the 
Queen,  is  of  little  interest  in  an  architectural  point 
of  view.  Windsor  Castle  and  Hampton  Court  are 
a  thousand  times  more  significant ;  but  the  interior 
of  Buckingham  Palace  on  a  court  reception  day  pre- 
sents one  of  the  grandest  exhibitions  of  social  pomp 
in  the  world.  The  glitter  of  diamonds  and  pre- 
cious stones  of  all  kinds,  the  display  of  costly 
fabrics,  the  beauty  of  wom^n,  the  glitter  of  royal 
decorations  upon  the  breasts  of  men^  the  sheen  of 
silk  stockings,  for  gentlemen  must  all  wear  these 
or  be  refused  admittance,  the  gorgeous  costumes  of 
the  attendants,  who  stand  immovable,  holding  huge 
battle  axes,  emblems  of  barbarism — altogether 
form  a  scene  never  to  be  forgotten. 

We   attended   Mr.    Spurgeon's  church.      He  is 


32  ENGLAND  AND  HER  QUEEN. 

about  thirty -seven  years  of  age,  short  of  stature, 
rather  thick  set,  dark  hair  and  eyes,  and  a  very 
pleasant  expression.  He  makes  no  use  of  notes,  but 
preaches  with  a  captivating  eloquence,  that  is  cal- 
culated to  do  much  good. 

The  days  spent  in  England  have  been  delightful. 
The  people  were  hospitable  and  courteous,  for 
which  we  shall  always  have  the  kindest  recollections 
of  merry  England. 


CHAPTER  III. 

FRANCE. 

•LL  ABOARD !  "  We  and  our  luggage 
are  hurried  on  a  little  steamboat ;  rain 
is  falling,  and  I  am  'glad  to  descend  into 
the  ladies'  cabin.  But  alas  !  the  accom- 
modations are  limited,  the  room  is  very  small  and 
close,  beds  are  made  on  the  seats,  and  some  on  the 
floor. 

I  was  so  amused  watching  the  ineffectual  efforts 
of  the  ladies  to  comfortably  arrange  themselves  for 
the  night,  that  I  could  not  think  of  sleep.  I  am 
not  surprised  that  so  many  passengers  ask  the  ques- 
tion, why  the  conveniences  on  the  channel  steamers 
are  so  inadequate,  considering  the  vast  amount  of 
travel  between  England  and  France. 

It  was  a  tolerably  quiet  night  crossing  the  chan- 
nel, and  at  nine  o'clock  the  next  morning  we  reach 


34  FRANCE. 

Dieppe,  France.  The  first  thing  which  attracted 
my  attention  was  the  women  in  white  caps,  with 
broad  frills.  Some  were  riding  on  donkeys,  others 
walking,  while  their  donkeys  were  loaded  with 
vegetables  for  market.  Dieppe  is  a  large  city, 
famous  among  other  things  for  its  unrivaled  manu- 
factures from  ivory. 

In  a  luxurious  French  railway  carriage  whirling 
through  the  valley  of  Normandy  to  Paris,  we  passed 
some  of  the  most  beautiful  scenery  in  France. 
Some  parts  were  a  perfect  flower  garden.  There 
were  whole  fields  of  the  red  poppy,  which  are  culti- 
vated for  the  oil  obtained  from  its  seeds.  This  oil 
is  much  used  by  the  people  for  salads,  many  prefer- 
ing  it  to  the  oil  of  the  olive.  It  is  a  clear,  sweet, 
and  nearly  odorless  oil.  Long  rows  of  Lombardy 
j)oplars  are  planted  on  either  side  of  every  stream 
of  water,  extending  miles  in  length.  The  wood  is 
used  to  make  charcoal,  and  by  engravers  and  cabi- 
net makers,  while  its  leaves,  either  green  or  dry,  are 
readily  eaten  by  sheep  and  cattle. 

After  a  delightful  ride,  we   entered  the  city  of 


FRANCE.  35 

Paris.  Our  first  business  was  to  install  ourselves 
in  a  good  hotel,  which  was  not  very  difficult,  as 
Paris  abounds  in  them. 

From  my  window  I  noticed  people  sitting  by  lit- 
tle round  tables,  sipping  chocolate  and  chatting 
away.  Presently  a  baker  passed  with  a  large  tray 
of  bread  made  in  strips  two  yards  in  length,  piled 
up  about  four  feet — this  he  carried  upon  his  head. 
Most  of  the  horses  that  pass  have  bells  jingling 
about  their  necks.  The  drivers  seem  trying  to  out- 
do each  other  in  cracking  their  whips.  Over  the 
smoothly  paved  streets  omnibuses  are  passing  to 
and  fro  with  as  many  passengers  on  the  top  as  there 
are  inside.  Those  wishing  to  ride  outside,  can  pass 
up  a  little  ladder  which  is  attached  to  the  end  of  the 
stages.  Flower  girls  walk  by  with  beautiful  flow- 
ers in  their  hands,  offering  them  for  a  few  sous. 
The  Parisians  are  lovers  of  flowers;  not  only  the 
rich  but  the  poor  have  a  universal  taste  for  them. 

The  sidewalks  are  filled  with  gaily  dressed  peo- 
ple walking  leisurely  as  though  care  or  business 
never  troubled  them. 


og    .  FRANCE. 

I  am  called  from  this  panoramic  view,  to  visit  tlie 
cathedral  of  Notre-dame.  Its  history  is  connected 
with  the  greatest  events  of  Parisian  life.  Here  the 
coronation  of  Napoleon  Bonaparte  and  Josephine 
took  place.  It  was  an  occasion  of  great  splendor, 
the  Pope  coming  from  Home  to  crown  them.  Louis 
Napoleon  and  Eugenie  were  here  married.  It  is 
one  of  the  grandest  cathedrals  of  Europe  and  dates 
from  1163,  when  the  first  stone  was  laid  by  Pope 
Alexander  III. 

The  church  of  the  Madeleine  stands  next  in  im- 
portance, built  after  the  style  of  the  Parthenon  at 
Athens,  intended  by  Napoleon  to  represent  the  tem- 
ple of  fame,  afterwards  completed  by  Louis  Philippe. 
This  church  has  a  most  grand  appearance.  It  is 
approached  at  either  end  by  a  flight  of  twenty-eight 
steps,  and  the  whole  building  is  surrounded  by  a 
colonnade  of  fifty-two  corinthian  pillars  each  forty- 
nine  feet  high. 

In  the  morning  we  take  a  carriage  for  a  drive  in 
the  Bois  de  Boulogne,  passing  up  the  Champs  Ely- 
s^es  to  the  Arc  de  Triomphe  which  was  commenced 


FRANCE.  37 

by  Napoleon  first  in  the  year  1806.  Witliin  tlie 
arcli  are  recorded  all  his  victories  and  the  names  of 
his  generals.  We  ascended  two  hundred  and  eighty 
steps  to  the  summit;  here  we  remained  some  time 
enjoying  what  is  considered  to  be  the  grandest 
view  of  Paris,  the  whole  city  lying  like  a  map 
before  us. 

Leaving  the  Arc  and  riding  through  the  avenue 
De  r  Imperatrice  we  enter  the  Bois  de  Boulogne,  the 
Parisians  favorite  park  and  fashionable  drive  of  the 
heaii  monde.  Late  in  the  afternoon  we  see  the 
ladies  and  gentlemen  driving  around  in  splendid 
equipages.  The  wood  is  charming  ;  there  are  broad 
roads  for  carriages,  shaded  avenues  for  equestriai  s, 
and  lakes  with  boats  upon  them.  In  some  of  these 
lakes  are  little  islands  on  which  are  beautiful  flow- 
ers and  pleasure  houses  where  delicate  refreshments 
can  be  obtained. 

Night  coming  on  we  return  to  our  hotel  in  time 
for  the  table  cTliote, 


r>. 


CHAPTER    IV. 

PARIS    AXD    XAPOLEON. 

|HIS  has  been  a  briglit  July  day,  and  we 
have  improved  it  by  visiting  the  tomb  of 
Napoleon.  Passing  up  several  marble  steps 
we  enter  a  beautiful  edifice,  called  the 
Domes  des  Invalides  ;  under  the  dome  rest  the  re- 
mains of  Napoleon  first,  who  was  brought  here  from 
the  island  of  St.  Helena,  in  the  year  1840,  as  in  his 
will  he  requested  that  his  ashes  might  repose  on 
the  banks  of  the  Seine,  in  the  midst  of  the  French 
people  whom  he  had  ever  loved. 

The  tomb  is  of  Porphyry,  weighing  over  one  hun- 
dred and  thirty  thousand  pounds.  Around  the 
tomb  are  twelve  magnificent  statues.  Near  the 
crypt  is  a  statue  of  the  Emperor.  The  cost  of  the 
^entire  building  was  between  two  and  three  million 


TOMB  OF  NAPOLEON. 


PARIS  AND  NAPOLEON.  ^2 

dollars.     The   people  are    constantly   coming  and 
going,  visiting  this  illustrious  shrine. 

Near  to  this  stands  the  Hotel  des  Invalides, 
founded  by  Louis  Fourteenth,  as.  a  home  for  dis- 
abled soldiers.  We  saw  the  old  veterans  walking 
and  sitting  around,  apparently  well  provided  for. 
They  have  little  gardens  for  tiieir  out  of  door  amuse- 
ment, and  some  of  these  are  kept  with  great  neat- 
ness and  taste.  Others  look  much  neglected. 
Wine  is  daily  furnished  to  all  the  veterans,  as  are 
also  tobacco  and  snuff  for  those  who  use  them. 

In  the  top  story  of  the  building  are  models  of  all 
the  fortified  cities  of  France,  made  by  the  inmates, 
in  plaster  and  wood. 

Wending  our  way  to  the  Rue  de  Rivoli,  one  of 
the  busy  streets  of  the  city,  we  are  soon  at  the 
Place  YendOme.  In  the  center  stands  the  Column 
Yend6me,  erected  by  Napoleon  First  to  commemor- 
ate his  German  campaign  in  1805.  It  is  formed  of 
twelve  hundred  captured  cannon,  and  the  shaft  is 
surmounted  by  his  statue. 

In  the  Place  Royale,  is  the  home  of  Victor  Hugo, 


42  PARIS  AND  NAPOLEON. 

and  near  it  that  of  Richelieu,  both  ancient  looking 
buildings. 

Near  by  is  the  Place  de  la  Bastile,  "where  stood 
the  castle  in  which  Marie  Antoinette  was  imprison- 
ed. It  was  one  of  the  most  famous  dungeons  in  the 
world.  In  the  revolution  of  '98  the  enraged  pop- 
ulace razed  it  to  the  ground. 

The  Palais  Royal  is  the  residence  of  Prince  Na- 
poleon, Princess  Clotilde,  his  wife,  and  Prince 
Jerome.  In  the  garden,  which  is  surrounded  with 
elegant  jewelry  shops,  the  lower  story  of  the  quad- 
rangular palace  being  rented  for  this  purpose,  we 
seated  ourselves  beside  the  fountain  to  listen  to  a 
band  of  music  which  plays  every  afternoon  at  four 
o'clock.  Here  crowds  of  people  congregate.  I 
often  remark  they  seem  to  have  nothing  to  do  but 
to  enjoy  themselves  and  be  happy ;  this  is  the  way 
it  appeared  to  me  all  the  time  in  Paris.  Their  Sun- 
days are  not  regarded  as  in  America.  It  is  more  of 
a  holiday  with  them,  and  many  of  the  stores  are 
open,  while  crowds  of  workmen  with  their  wives 
and  children  seek  the  fresh  air  and  green  fields  of 


PARIS  AND  NAPOLEON,  43 

Saint  Cloud,  Fontainebleau,  or  otlier  places,  in  the 
railway  trains  leaving  Paris  at  almost  all  hours. 

The  finest  stores  are  on  the  Boulevards,  Rue  de 
la  Paix,  and  the  Rue  de  Rivoli,  where  are  to  be 
found  the  most  elegant  goods  of  all  description. 
The  sidewalk  of  the  latter  is  covered  by  the  build- 
ings, forming  a  long  arcade. 

The  Louvre  is  very  extensive,  and  requires  several 
visits.  The  museum  of  antiquities  is  on  the  lower 
floor.  In  the  Imperial  museum  are  to  be  seen  Na- 
23oleon's  sword,  camp-bed,  writing  desk,  several 
coats  pierced  with  bullets,  his  last  used  gloves, 
and  his  state  coronation  chair,  also  relics  of  Maria 
Antoinette,  the  jewels  of  Maria  Louisa,  and  other 
interesting  objects. 

Here  are  galleries  after  galleries  of  paintings.  In 
one  no  pictures  are  received  excepting  those  whose 
masters  are  dead.  We  Cjuickly  sought  out  Murillo's 
"Immaculate  Conception,"  which  is  considered  the 
most  valuable  of  the  collection,  and  by  some  the 
finest  picture  in  the  world. 

Connected  with  the  Louvre  are  the  Tuileries,  the 


44  PARIS  AND  NAPOLEON. 

citj  residence  of  Napoleon  and  Eugenie.  The  in- 
terior is  fitted  up  in  the  most  opulent  and  costly 
style.  The  garden  of  the  palace  is  divided  from 
the  Rue  Rivoli  by  a  high  railing  ornamented  with 
marble  urns  filled  with  flowers. 

The  grounds  are  exquisitely  laid  out,  abounding 
with  statuary  and  fountains.  They  embrace  an  area 
of  fifty  acres,  and  are  thronged  with  people  from 
morning  till  night  on  all  fair  days.  There  you  see 
the  children  of  the  rich  from  all  countries  dressed 
in  elegant  attire  pursuing  their  juvenile  sports. 
The  little  sparrows  are  so  tame  in  these  gardens 
that  they  often  take  crumbs  from  your  hand. 

The  word  Tuileries  is  from  tuile,  a  tile,  so  named  it 
is  said  because  the  site  was  once  occupied  by  a  manu- 
factory of  tiles  of  which  the  roofs  in  France  are  quite 
generally  covered.  From  a  window  in  the  centre 
of  the  palace  of  the  Tuileries  you  have  a  view  of 
which  some  one  says  "  It  is  the  finest  artificial  vista 
in  the  world.  There  is  a  grandeur  in  the  scene 
from  the  tops  of  high  mountains,  in  a  limitless  ex- 
panse of  ocean,  but  standing  here  and  looking  up 


PARIS  AND  NAPOLEON.  45 

across  tlie  fountains  and  the  flowers  of  tlie  Tuileries 
gardens,  on  through  the  beautiful  opening  in  the 
Chestnut  woods  to  the  grand  Place  de  la  Concorde 
with  its  costly  fountains  and  its  Egyptian  obelisk, 
on  still  through  the  Champs  Elysees  up  through  the 
Arc  de  Triomphe  where  the  eye  fails  and  the  Bois 
de  Boulogne  which  lies  beyond  is  scarcely  percep 
tible,  we  are  compelled  to  say  that  we  believe  there 
is  nothing  to  rival  it  in  the  whole  world.  It  is  not 
only  grand,  but  it  charms  us  with  the  conviction 
that  if  nature  is  beautiful,  nature  improved  by  art  is 
infinitely  lovely,  because  it  always  excites  a  higher 
emotion  than  that  of  mere  gaping  wonder.  It 
challenges  our  admiration  for  the  achievements  of 
human  industry  and  increases  our  love  for  human- 
ity. 

This  is  a  great  day  in  Paris,  Napoleon  is  to  review 
his  army  ;  early  in  the  morning  crowds  are  wending 
their  way  to  the  Champs  Elysees,  and  mingling  with 
the  throng  we  succeeded  in  obtaining  a  favorable 
position  from  a  window  of  a  cafe,  directly  opposite 
the   Palace  of  Industry,  where  the   Empress  Eu- 


4G  PARIS  AND  NAPOLEON. 

genie  was  seated.  One  by  one  the  state  carriages 
began  to  arrive  filled  with  ladies  who  took  seats  in 
the  windows  of  the  palace.  Ere  long,  amid  the 
shouts  and  cheers  of  the  populace,  and  the  music  of 
many  bands,  surrounded  by  a  body  guard  of  nearly 
two  hundred  men,  dressed  in  gorgeous  uniforms,  Na- 
poleon came  riding  up  the  grand  avenue,  and  took 
his  position  in  front  of  the  Palace  of  Industry.  He 
wore  a  look  of  self-possession,  which  impressed  the 
beholder.  His  dress  consisted  of  a  gilt  helmet  with 
white  ostrich  plumes,  a  light  military  coat,  and  over 
the  shoulder  passed  a  broad  green  ribbon.  His 
pants  were  cf  red  velvet,  with  a  black  stripe  at  the 
•sides.  Seated  upon  a  gilt  saddle,  and  bestriding  a 
handsome  bay  horse,  he  seemed  undisturbed- by  the 
scene  around  him.  The  firing  of  cannon  announced 
the  approach  of  the  army  marching  twenty-eight 
abreast,  in  close  order.  They  were  two  hours  and 
fifteen  minutes  passing,  presenting  a  splendid  mili- 
tary spectacle. 

Alas,  for  Napoleon!     In  a  few  short  days  how 
cha;nged  the  scene.     War  with  its  ruthless  hand  has 


PARIS  AND  NAPOLEON.  4^ 

torn  the  crown  from  thy  brow  and  destroyed  thy 
dreams  of  glory  forever. 

Napoleon  has  done  much  for  France,  m  beautify- 
ing its  cities  and  increasing  the  prosperity  of  its 
people,  but  they  do  not  seem  permanently  united, 
or  long  satisfied  with  their  rulers. 

The  history  of  France  has  been  one  of  vicissi- 
tude. 

One  of  the  most  delighful  days  of  our  sojourn  in 
France  was  that  passed  at  Versailles,  eleven  miles 
from  Paris.  Here  is  the  imposing  palace  of  Ver- 
sailles, so  famous  in  history.  The  cost  of  the  palace 
and  grounds  of  Versailles  has  been  estimated  at  one 
billion  of  francs,  or  two  hundred  millions  of  dollars. 
The  w^er  for  its  elaborate  fountains  is  supplied 
from  the  Seine  by  forcing  pumps,  worked  by  steam, 
and  the  cost  of  working  the  fountains  for  a  single 
hour  is  something  enormous.  They  are  played  on 
the  first  Sunday  of  every  month.  The  extensive 
parks,  lawns,  terraces  and  gardens,  evergreen  trees 
made  to  grow  in  quaint  abnormal  shapes,  statues, 
vases,  render  the  belongings  of  the  palace   alone 


48  PARIS  AND  NAPOLEON. 

well  wortli  a  visit  to  the  city  of  Yersailles.  The 
Petit  Trianon,  a  royal  mansion  built  by  Louis  XV., 
for  Madame  du  Barry,  was  the  favorite  residence  of 
the  unhappy  Marie  Antoinette,  queen  of  Louis,' 
XI Y.  This  mansion,  and  also  the  Grand  Trianon 
are  within  the  grounds  of  the  palace. 

Fontainebleau  is  another  famous  palace  about 
thirty  miles  from  Paris.  It  is  a  magnificent  pile 
and  has  been  the  country  residence  of  the  court  at 
different  times.  Here  Napoleon  in  1814  bade  fare- 
well to  the  famous  "  old  guard."  One  of  the  Popes 
was  confined  here,  about  that  time,  for  a  year  and  a 
half  The  palace  is  rich  in  paintings  by  Del  Sarto, 
Da  Yinci,  Benvenuto,  Cellini,  and  others,  but  many 
of  their  works  are  falling  to  decay.  The  forest  of 
Fontainebleau  contains  over  34,000  acres  and  is 
perhaps  the  finest  in  France.  The  illustration  rep- 
resents one  of  its  magnificent,  shaded  avenues  be- 
side the  largest  of  its  beautiful  lakes. 

Saint  Cloud  is  another  of  the  famous  palaces  of 
France.  The  village  of  Saint  Cloud,  containing 
somethino^  over  three  thousand  inhabitants,  is  about 


PARIS    AND  NAPOLEON.  51 

five  miles  west  of  Paris.  In  1782  Louis  XVI.  pur- 
chased it  for  Marie  Antoinette,  and  since  then  it  has 
been  a  favorite  residence  of  the  royal  family,  espe- 
cially with  the  two  Napoleons.  On  Sundays,  at  least, 
and  on  other  days  for  ought  that  I  know  to  the  con- 
trary, the  populace  are  permitted  to  roam  all  over  the 
beautiful  grounds  of  Saint  Cloud,  and  hundreds  of 
■their  children  may  be  seen  sporting  or  rolling  upon 
its  thick  green  grass,  or  wandering  around  its  cool 
lakes.  When  there  are  such  luxuries  within  the 
reach  of  the  poor  workmen,  is  it  a  wonder  that  he 
takes  his  wife  and  children  to  enjoy  them  '  even  on 
Sunday,  the  only  day  on  which  he  can  leave  his 
workshop  ? 


CHAPTER    V. 

SWITZERLAND. 

T.   CLOUD,  Fontainebleau,  and  many  otlier 
^?^%  interesting  places,  in  and  around  Paris,  and 
€  the  delightful  day  spent  at  Versailles,  finish 
our  sight-seeing  at  Paris,  and  we  must  leave 
for  other  scenes  of  interest. 

The  next  morning  we  proceed  to  the  gare^  or 
railway  station,  by  seven  o'clock  to  take  the  cars  for 
Basle,  Switzerland.  Riding  all  day,  a  distance 
of  three  hundred  and  twenty-five  miles,  going 
through  the  Champagne  districts  of  France,  by 
dark  we  reach  Basle,  and  putting  up  at  the  hotel 
de  la  Couronne  we  partake  of  a  good  sapper  and 
retire  to  our  room  fatigued  after  the  long  ride  of 
the  day. 

The  next  morning  much  refreshed  we  start  out 
to  explore  the  place. 


SWITZERLAND.  ^^ 

Basle  is  situated  on  both  sides  of  the  river  Ehine, 
and  is  a  decidedly  ancient  looking  city.  The  people 
speak  German.  A  new  Protestant  church  has  recent- 
ly been  erected  at  great  expense,  the  money  havino- 
been  left  for  that  purpose  by  a  rich  merchant  of 
Basle. 

We  leave  by  rail  for  Lucerne.  The  scenery 
along  the  route  is  characteristic  of  the  country. 
Here  the  picturesque  Swiss  cottage  is  seen,  the  roof 
so  far  overhanging  the  house  as  to  afford  a  perfect 
protection  to  its  sides,  under  this  projection  we 
frecpaently  see  suspended  herbs  and  vegetables. 

Every  canton  has  a  different  style  of  cottage,  and 
all  are  curious  objects  to  the  traveler. 

Arriving  at  Lucerne  we  take  rooms  at  Schwanen 
Hotel.  This  place  is  the  capital  of  the  canton,  and 
is  very  prettily  situated  at  the  head  of  the  lake  of 
Lucerne,  the  river  Reuss  dividing  it  into  two  parts. 
The  peasantry  are  remarkable  for  their  costume. 
The  women,  wearing  a  short  skirt,  with  white  waist, 
and  very  full  sleeves.  Over  the  waist  is  a  black 
bodice  with  shoulder  straps.     The  old  women  wear 


56  S  WITZERLAXD. 

long  braids  of  hair  hanging  down  tlieir  backs,  are 
usually  bare  headed,  sometimes  with  a  handkerchief 
tied  over  the  head,  or  a  very  singular  looking  hat 
with  the  front  turned  up. 

The  people  seem  to  be  industrious  and  happy. 
The  prominent  objects  of  interest  are  the  three 
bridges  over  the  river  Reuss,  decorated  with  strange 
looking  pictures,  representing  different  phases  in 
life,  and  the  "  Wounded  Lion  "  from  a  model  by 
Thorwaldsen:  This  is  a  monument  erected  in  mem- 
ory of  the  Swiss  guards,  who  fell  at  Paris  in  1792. 
A  remarkable  feature  is  the  beautiful  spring  of 
clear  water  at  the  foot  of  the  monument.  Below 
its  surface  you  see  a  perfect  reflection  of  the  figure 
above,  which  is  carved  out  of  the  side  of  a  high 
rock. 

We  went  out  sailing  on  the  lake.  It  was  calm 
and  pleasant,  not  a  ripple  stirring  its  surface.  Near 
a  small  island,  we  came  to  a  large  bed  of  pond  lil- 
ies, growing  in  profusion.  They  were  the  largest 
and  loveliest  I  ever  saw.  We  gathered  our  arms 
full,  and  on  the  way  back  suddenly  a  shower  came 


S  WITZERLAND.  5  7 

on,  obliging  us  to  take  shelter  under  an  old  boat 
shed ;  but  we  were  quite  thankful  to  get  even  that, 
as  the  rain  fell  in  torrents.  Near  by  was  a  poor 
Swiss  cottage  from  which  the  children  would  come 
running  out  to  peep  at  us,  and  then  dart  back  into 
the  cottage  to  tell  of  the  strangers.  The  shower 
soon  over,  we  sailed  back  with  our  boat  load  of 
lilies.  Nearing  the  town  the  sound  of  the  bells 
came  softly  over  the  lake,  it  being  the  custom  to 
ring  the  chimes  every  hour.  With  good  appetite 
we  enjoyed  an  excellent  dinner,  and  afterward  took 
our  seats  upon  the  balcony  of  the  hotel.  The  view 
is  magnificent.  On  the  right  stands  Mount  Pilatus ; 
opposite  across  the  lake  Mount  Rigi,  their  tops  cov- 
ered with  snow.  Far  in  the  distance,  peak  after 
peak  of  the  Alps  can  be  seen,  with  the  everlasting 
glaciers  resting  between  them.  The  sun  sinking  in 
the  west,  casts  its  departing  rays  upon  the  Alpine 
snow  and  ice,  and  a  bright  rainbow  appeared,  only 
to  vanish  and  give  place  to  another;  and  as  the  light 
faded  slowly  away,  we  were  lost  in  admiration. 
Our  thoughts  went  out  in  praise  to  the  great  Artist 


58  SWITZEMLAXD. 

who  is  able  to  paint  sucli  a  glorious  panorama. 
Gradually  the  scene  changed  and  the  full  moon 
came  up  over  Mount  Rigi,  casting  her  silvery  light 
upon  the  placid  waters  of  the  lake.  A  boat  shoots 
out,  and  takes  its  place  about  one  quarter  of  a  mile 
from  the  shore.  A  band  of  musicians  is  on  board 
and  there  they  remain  discoursing  sweet  music,  un- 
til far  into^the  hours  of  night.  This  afternoon  and 
evening  in  Switzerland  will  never  be  effaced  from 
my  mind. 


CHAPTER     YI. 

CROSSIXG    THE   ALPS. 

T  four  o'clock  in  the  morning  we  are  called 

b     "to  take  Si  gong  through  the   lake."      A 

^^.'^M      small  narrow  steamer  is  ready,  and  in  a  few 

minutes  a  little  company    of  travelers"  are 

gathered  on  deck  and  the  bow   is  pointed   toward 

the  other  end  of  the  lake.    The  first  stopping  place 

was  Weggis,   where  quite  a  number  disembark   to 

ascend  the   Rigi.      They  were  well  prepared  with 

broad-brimmed  straw  hats,  coarse  heavy  shoes,  with 

sharp  nails  in  the  soles,  and  the  alpenstock  in    their 

hands.     I  noticed  written  on  a  staff  belonging   to 

one  of  the  gentlemen,  the  names   of  the   different 

mountains  that  he  had  ascended,  among  them  were 

Mounts  Blanc  and  Vesuvius. 

The  air  is  pure  and  bracing,   and  the  mountains 
4 


gQ  CROSSING  THE  ALPS. 

become  more  lofty  and  grand  as  we  speed  along 
the  clear  waters.  We  cannot  think  of  going  below 
to  our  breakfast,  as  we  should  miss  the  changing 
scenery.  A  little  table  is  set  upon  the  deck,  over 
which  the  Swiss  maid  spreads  a  white  cloth  and  on 
it  places  delicious  honey,  for  which  Switzerland  is 
noted  ;  bread,  cheese,  eggs,  and  a  good  cup  of  coffee 
complete  the  meal. 

High  up  the  mountain  sides  could  be  heard  the 
tinkling  of  bells  where  the  herds  were  feeding,  and 
perched  on  the  sides  almost  to  the  very  edge  of 
the  snow,  were  to  be  seen  the  little  summer  huts 
of  the  shepherds.  As  the  season  advances  and  the 
snow  melts,  they  drive  their  flocks  higher  and 
higher,  coming  down  at  the  earliest  approach  of  au- 
tumn, bringing  their  summer  manufacture  of  butter 
and  cheese. 

The  lake  of  Lucerne  presents  to  the  traveler  the 
most  sublime  scenery  in  Switzerland.  The  moun- 
tains reaching  to  the  clouds  on  either  side,  their 
tops  white  with  snow,  present  a  scene  of  wild  grand- 
eur impossible  to  describe. 


CROSSING  THE  ALPS.  g^ 

This  is  the  land  of  William  Tell,  all  the  surround- 
ings are  immortalized  with  his  fame.  We  are  point- 
ed out  the  spot  where  he  leaped  ashore  and  escaped 
from  Gesler.  A  chapel  to  mark  the  place  has  been 
erected,  and  once  a  year  mass  is  celebrated  here, 
whither  the  people  repair  in  boats  decorated  with 
flowers. 

The  Swiss  believe  in  William  Tell,  and  venerate 
his  name.  The  masses  would  not  probably  receive 
with  any  complacency  the  reduction  of  their  favor- 
ite hero  to  a  mythical  legend  ;  and  yet  if  vv^e  believe 
such  scholars  as  Delapierre,  Cox,  and  others,  the 
first  mention  of  the  name  occurs  some  four  hundred 
years  before  the  pretended  historical  William  Tell 
came  upon  the  scene.  It  is  further  significant,  to 
say  the  least,  that  there  is,  in  history,  no  mention  of 
the  tyrant   Gesler. 

Arriving  at  Fluelen,  a  town  situated  at  the  end 
of  the  lake,  we  find  the  diligence  in  which  we  had 
engaged  passage  before  leaving  Lucerne,  all  in  read- 
iness to  set  out  on  the  journey  over  the  St.  Gothard, 
one  of  the  most  awe-inspiring  of  the  Alpine  passes. 


Q2  CROSSING  THE  ALPS, 

The  diligence  is  a  clumsy  looking  vehicle  with 
three  apartments.  Each  passenger  takes  the  seat 
assigned  him  by  the  number  on  his  ticket.  Drawn 
by  four  horses,  we  commenced  the  mountain  ascent, 
passing,  after  a  short  distance,  the  statue  commemo- 
rating the  place  where  ''  Tell "  shot  the  apple  from 
his  son's  head. 

The  road  was  very  good  and  quite  smooth.  Our 
traveling  companions  in  the  stage  were  an  English 
lady  and  her  husband,  both  quite  sociable  and  divert- 
ing. All  day  long  we  were  winding  up  the  moun- 
tain, the  view  becoming  more  wild  and  rugged. 
V^e  halted  at  the  little  town  of  Andermatt,  and  soon 
after  setting  out  again,  we  passed  the  bridge  under 
which  the  Eeuss  jolunges  and  roars  in  an  awful  man- 
ner. This  bridge  was  the  scene  of  a  terrible  strug- 
gle between  the  French  and  Austrians  in  the  year 
1799. 

Often  times  the  road  would  lie  along  the  very 
edge  of  a  precipice,  down  which  no  one  could 
scarcely  dare  to  look.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the 
chasm,  streams  of  water  came  leaping  over  the  sides 


CEOS  SI XG  THE  ALPS.  63 

of  the  cliffs,  and  fjilling  through  the  air  thousands 
of  feet.  Numbers  of  these  cascades  are  to  be  seen. 
They  are  caused  by  the  melting  of  the  glaciers. 

The  poor  horses  strained  every  nerve  as  they  en- 
deavored to  draw  the  heavy  carriage  up  the  zig-zag 
course.  Away  down  in  the  valleys  we  saw  flocks 
of  sheep,  chamois  and  goats  feeding. 

The  Alpine  flora  are  exquisite.  Several  times 
during  the  day,  the  gentlemen  would  jump  out  of 
the  diligence  while  in  motion,  and  gather  beautiful 
bouquets  of  flowers  delicate  in  odor  and  form  and 
brilliant  in  hue,  which  had  grown  and  blossomed 
among  the  snows.  As  the  afternoon  wore  on  we 
rapidly  neared  the  top.  The  air  became  piercing 
cold,  snow  and  ice  all  around,  bringing  into  requisi- 
tion all  our  extra  clothing.  As  the  way  became 
more  "steep,  the  number  of  horses  were  increased 
until  twelve  powerful  ones  were  pulling  with  all  their 
might.  Two  o'clock,  three  o'clock,  four  o'clock, 
and  we  stand  on  the  top  of  St.  Gothard,  almost 
eleven  thousand  feet  high,  with  the  clouds  rolling 
kr  beneath  our  feet. 


CHAPTER    YII. 

THE    MIDNIGHT    RIDE. 

|HILE  the  driver  is  changing  horses,  an 
opjDortunity  is  afforded  us  for  rest  and  re- 
<p  freshment,  and  Tre  have  ample  time  to  ex- 
amine the  celebrated  Hospice  of  St. 
Gothard-  There  are  several  of  these  hospices  built 
on  the  Alpine  passes,  to  provide  for  travelers.  They 
ptre  inhabited  by  monks,  who  keep  dogs,  trained  to 
rescue  lost  wayfarers  who  often  miss  their  way 
in  the  blinding  storms  which  frequently  occur. 
Within  ten  miles  of  where  we  are,  four  rivers  rise, 
the  Reuss,  Rhone,  Rhine,  and  the  Ticino. 

The  view  is  now  truly  sublime.  As  far  as  our 
sight  can  penetrate  from  the  lofty  point  on  which 
we  stand,  hundreds  of  snow  capped  peaks  are  seen 
piercing  the  deep  blue  sky.  East  and  west  extend 
the  Alps  in  the  form  of  a  great  crescent,  bounding 


THE  MIDNIGHT  RIDE.  g5 

the  north  of  Italy.  Here  is  the  home  of  the  glacier, 
and  the  terrible  avalanche.  How  insignificant  the 
works  of  man  appear  compared  to  the  awful  gran- 
deur of  this  scene  ! 

The  call  of  the  driver  announced  "  all  ready,"  and 
bidding  the  old  monks  a  hasty  good  bye,  we  hur- 
ried into  the  diligence.  There  were  only  two  horses 
now  attached.  The  driver  with  his  feet  firm  upon 
the  breaks,  gave  his  whip  a  loud  crack,  the  horses 
started  on  a  gallop  and  the  descent  commenced. 
This  is  the  most  fearful  part  of  the  ride.  The  road 
often  turning  abruptly,  you  have  the  sensation  that 
you  are  going  over  the  edge  of  the  precipice,  thou- 
sands of  feet  into  the  valley  below.  Glancing 
down  the  head.-- becomes  dizzy,  and  we  turn  away 
with  a  fevereish  -  and  helpless  sensation,  trusting  to 
the  driver,  and  the  safety  of  the  breaks.  -  Passing  a 
number  of  small  villages,  about  eleven  o'clock  at 
night  we  reach  the  town  of  Bellinzona.  Here  a 
crowd  collected  around  the  diligence  to  hear  what 
news  there  was,  for  the  arrival  of  the  stage  appear- 


66  THE  MIDNIGHT  RIDE. 

ed  quite  an  event  to  them.  The  people  looked  dif- 
ferently from  any  which  we  had  seen,  more  like  Ital- 
ians. 

Our  English  friends  unexpectedly  concluded  to 
remain  in  Bellinzona  rather  than  undergo  the  mid- 
night ride,  notwithstanding  the  fact  that  there  was 
no  room  for  them  in  the  inn. 

Just  before  starting  two  men  dressed  in  Italian  cos- 
tume entered  the  stage  and  took  seats  opposite.  One 
of  them  was  armed  with  a  rifle  and  a  sword.  These 
were  to  be  the  only  passengers  beside  ourselves. 

For  two  weary  hours  we  were  winding  up  another 
chain  of  the  Alps,  when  suddenly  a  terrible  thunder- 
storm broke  upon  us,  peal  after  peal  crashed  through 
the  mountains,  echoing  from  crag  to  crag,  until  the 
very  earth  trembled.  As  the  continual  lightning 
flashes  illuminated  the  midnight  darkness,  the  two 
passengers  could  be  seen,  one  apparently  watching 
us,  while  the  other  was  feigning  sleep.  A  feeling 
of  fear  took  possession  of  me,  and  I  prayed  for  the 
light  of  day,  and  deliverance  from  this  lonely  ride. 
The  hours  seemed  days.  At  three  o'clock  the  storm 
passed  away,  ar.d  the  moon  came  out,  somewhat  dis- 


THE  MIDXl  GH  T  RIDE.  g  7 

pelling  the  gloom.  We  were  now  riding  along  by 
lake  Lugano  where  another  passenger  was  added. 
We  were  glad  for  any  relief  from  the  loneliness  of 
our  situation.  As  the  morning  approached  the  air 
began  to  feel  more  sultry,  and  as  we  descended 
upon  the  plains  of  Italy,  daylight  revealed  to  us 
that  we  were  passing  through  Italian  villages. 
Beggars  came  running  after  us,  some  of  them  rol- 
ling like  a  hoop  along  the  road,  expecting  a  few 
pennies  to  be  tossed  out  to  them.  After  a  long  de- 
lay at  the  custom  house,  our  baggage  being  closely 
examined,  we  were  allowed  to  proceed.  Passing  a 
few  more  towns,  about  nine  o'clock  we  drive  into 
Como.  The  time  from  the  Lake  of  Lucerne,  was 
twenty-six  hours,  during  which  time  there  had  been 
required  six  drivers  and  forty-eight  horses  to  our 
diligence. 


CHAPTER    YIII 


ITALY. 


(^^  WAS  glad  enough  to  get  out  of  tlie  old  dili- 
gence, and  know  that  I  was  in  classic  Italy. 
^&^  We  were  landed  in  the  middle  of  the  street, 
with  our  baggage  set  beside  us.  Presently 
we  saw  running  toward  us  a  miserable  looking  old 
man,  who  looked  at  us,  said  something,  and  pointed 
to  the  baggage.  We  perfectly  understood  his  ges 
ures.  He  left  us  but  returned  quickly  with  a  hand 
cart,  into  which  he  threw  the  trunks  and  started  off, 
while  we  followed  bringing  up  in  front  of  the  hotel 
De  r  Ange.  A  very  large  room  was  assigned  us, 
with  a  marble  floor  and  frescoed  ceiling.  The  win- 
dows  opening  on  a  stone  balcony,  commanded  a 
fine  view  of  the  lake,  so  romantically  associated 
with  Bulwer's  play,  TJie  Lady  of  Lyons. 

After  a  visit  to  the  Cathedral,  and  Broletto,  the 


ITALY.  69 

next  clay  we  take  the  steamer  tlirougli  the  lake  of 
Como  to  Lecco.  The  view  is  varied  and  enchanting. 
Among  the  most  charming  villas  to  be  seen,  is  the 
'•'•  Yilla  d'Este  "  once  the  residence  of  Queen  Caro- 
line of  England,  also  "Yilla  Montebello  "  where  Na- 
poleon and  Josephine  resided  after  the  fall  of  Yen- 
ice.  Caroline,  queen  of  George  lY.,  it  will  be  re- 
membered, was  offered  a  pension  of  fifty  thousand 
pounds  on  condition  that  she  would  never  return  to 
England.  She  rejected  the  offer  with  contempt 
and  arriving  in  England  in  the  summer  of  1820, 
she  was  received  by  the  people,  who  never  with- 
drew their  allegiance  to  her,  with  acclamations  of 
joy.  A  charge  of  unfliithfulness  was  brought  against 
her,  which  though  never  substantiated  as  a  fact, 
created  much  scandal,  and  the  following  year  when 
George  the  Fourth  was  crowned  in  Westminster 
Abbey  the  doors  were  closed  against  her.  The  peo- 
pie  did  not  perhaps  believe  her  entirely  guiltless,  but 
they  would  not  place  reliance  upon  any  charge 
emanating  from  a  husband  who  had  treated  her  with 
revolting  cruelty. 


70  ITALY. 

I  had  often  desired  to  see  this  noted  lake,  but  it 
far  surpassed  in  beauty  my  expectations,  and  yet 
while  its  shores  are  lined  with  orange  and  citron 
groves,  its  lovely  villas,  its  magnificent  situation 
among  the  Alps,  it  lacks  one  element  of  beauty,  the 
three  hundred  and  sixty -five  lovely  islands  of  our 
own  bewitching  Lake  George. 

The  steamer  reaching  Lecco  about  two  o'clock  in 
the  afternoon,  all  the  passengers  were  compelled  to 
march  into  a  fumigating  room,  where  dishes  were 
placed  on  the  floor,  filled  with  chlorid  of  lime, 
also  something  in  a  vial  to  inhale.  After  remaining 
in  this  room  until  we  were  almost  suffocated  with 
the  dense  smoke  of  something  burning,  we  were 
allowed  to  leave.  The  weather  was  very  warm  and 
this  fumigating  was  a  sanitary  measure  to  prevent 
any  of  the  passengers  from  bringing  infection  into 
the  city.  Lecco  is  a  small  place  not  affording  much 
to  detain  the  traveler,  so  we  proceed  to  Bergamo, 
and  from  there  to  Yerona,  arriving  at  midnight.  The 
road  leading  to  the  city  presented  a  fine  appearance 


ITALY.  72 

in  the  bright  moonlight  being  broad  and  well  shaded 
with  trees. 

The  gates  of  the  city  of  Yerona  we  found  closed  ; 
but  soon  an  officer  came,  and  after  scrutinizing  us, 
opened  them  and  we  were  driven  to  the  hotel 
Tour  De  Londres. 

Yerona  is  an  interesting  city,  built  on  both  sides  of 
the  river  Adige,  which  is  crossed  by  four  stone 
bridges.  Its  wonderful  fortifications  must  have  cost 
as  much  money  as  it  required  to  build  the  city  itself 

It  is  noted  for  being  the  birth-place  of  Paolo 
Yeronese,  or  '•'- 11  pittor  feltce^'^  the  happy  painter. 

Bright  and  early  we  were  off  with  our  cicerone, 
visiting  churches  and  cathedrals.  Going  through 
a  convent,  then  across  a  garden  having  on  one 
side  a  high  stone  wall,  we  came  to  a  small  old 
building.  In  this  our  guide  naively  pointed  out 
with  much  satisfaction  "  La  tomha  di  cjieidetta  la 
sfortmiatar  the  tomb  of  Juliet,  the  unfortunate. 
It  is  made  of  marble  and  looks  very  ancient. 

The  Amphitheatre  is  one  of  the  most  extraordi- 
nary  pieces  of  Roman  architecture   in  existence. 


72  ITALY. 

It  is  supposed  to  have  been  erected  about  the  time 
of  Titus.  The  outside  is  in  ruins  while  the  inside  is 
almost  as  perfect  as  when  built.  There  are  seats  for 
twenty-five  thousand  persons,  all  made  of  hewn 
stone,  and  the  places  where  the  wild  beasts  were 
confined,  and  led  in  and  out,  are  plainly  to  be  seen. 
We  ascended  and  walked  along  the  great  stone  seats, 
Plants  and  weeds  had  sprung  up  and  were  grow- 
ing plenteously  among  the  crevices. 

From  '' Yerona  the  Worthy  "  we  continued  our 
journey  through  a  fine  country.  The  fields  were 
covered  with  wild  flowers,  and  the  grape  vines  run- 
ning up  the  trees  and  hanging  from  the  branches 
in  graceful  festoons  formed  a  characteristic  part  of 
the  scenery. 

Going  by  many  Italian  villages  and  cities  we  ap- 
proached a  large  level  tract  of  country,  on  which 
tall  grass  was  the  only  thing  growing.  Evidently  we 
were  nearing  the  shore ;  and  in  a  short  time  we  de- 
scried, far  off  upon  the  water,  Yenice,  the  "  City  of 
the  Sea." 


CHAPTER   IX 


''  CITY    OF    THE    SEA.  " 


JI^II^T  noon  we  arrived  at  Yenice  where  again  we 
^^4  ^^^^  subjected  to  the  process  of  fumigation, 
oif^    with  which  we  have  now  become  accustom. 

"%  ed.  Afterward  we  were  detained  at  the 
custom  house,  to  undergo  a  rigid  examination  of 
our  passports  and  baggage.  It  is  both  annojdng 
and  amusing,  to  see  how  the  bags  and  trunks  get 
ransacked  and  tumbled,  many  of  them  having  been 
packed  with  care.  The  officers  being  satisfied,  we 
were  permitted  to  depart.  Stepping  out  on  a  plat- 
form in  front  of  the  custom  house  we  are  greeted  by 
a  confusion  of  voices  calling  "  Gondola  signoi^e  f  " 
"  Gondola  signore  f  "  and  in  a  few  minutes  we  are 
gliding  along  the  grand  canal.  How  strange  the 
scene!  No  rumbling  of  carriages  or  stages,  no 
shouting  of  horsemen,  all  is  silent,  yet  thousands  in 


74  VENICE,  "  CITY  OF  THE  SEA." 

these  gondolas  are  passing  to  and  fro  continually. 
Approaching  the  "  Grand  hotel  de  la  Yille  "  and 
entering  a  vestibule  with  flowers  in  large  vases,  and 
trees  growing  on  either  side,  we  are  shown  up  a 
flight  of  broad  marble  steps,  to  a  room  with  velvet 
and  rosewood  furniture^  and  oriental  decorations. 
This  is  called  the  Turkish  room,  and  opens  into  a 
museum  containing  many  curiosities,  also  great  gilt 
chairs,  reminding  me  of  those  in  the  "Houses  of 
Parliament." 

Pleasant  has  been  the  time  devoted  to  Venice  ;  it 
has  passed  away  like  a  dream.  Days  were  spent, 
sailing  in  gondolas  in  the  water  streets,  also  explor- 
ing palaces,  churches,  galleries,  and  dungeons.  If 
one  wishes  to  step  out  of  the  hotel,  he  must  call  a. 
gondolier.  Some  of  the  gondolas  are  very  elegant, 
especially  those  which  are  owned  by  the  wealthy 
Venetians.  In  the  days  of  Venice's  greatness  they 
were  so  extravagantly  decorated  that  the  govern- 
ment issued  an  order  for  them  to  be  painted  black 
only,  and  the  custom  remains  to  the  present  day. 
The  only  ornament  is  a  broad  piece  of  steel  fasten- 


VENICE,  "CITY  OF  THE  SEA."  75 

ed  to  the  prow,  polished  bright  and  glistening  in 
the  sunlight. 

"  Didst  ever  see  a  gondola  ?  for  fear 

You  should  not,  I'll  describe  it  you  exactly  : 

'  Tis  a  long  covered  boat,  that's  common  here, 

Curved  at  the  prow,  built  lightly  but  compactly, 

Rowed  by  two  rowers,  each  called  a  gondolier.    . 

It  glides  along  the  water,  looking  blackly, 

Just  like  a  coffin  clapped  in  a  canoe, 

Where  none  can  ma^e  out  what  you  say  or  do. 

And  up  and  down  the  long  canals  they  go, 

And  under  the  Rialto  shoot  away. 

By  night  and  day,  all  paces,  swift  or  slow ; 

And  round  the  theatres,  a  sable  throng, 

They  wait  in  their  dusk  livery  of  woe  ; 

But  not  to  them  do  woeful  things  belong, 

For  sometimes  they  contain  a  deal  of  fun. 

Like  mourning  coaches  when  the  funeral's  done." 

At  the  cathedral  of  San  Marco  high  mass  was 
celebrated  during  our  sojourn  in  Yenice.  The 
church  was  thronged  in  every  part ;  veiled  nuns 
were  marching  up  and  down  the  aisles,  bearing 
lighted   candle^,  while  the  atmosphere   was   filled 


76  VENICE,  "  CITY  OF  THE  SEA." 

with  tlie  perfume  of  burning  incense.  Priests 
dressed  in  gorgeous  robes,  performed  tlie  service 
before  tlie  higli  altar.  Suddenly  a  deep  silence 
prevailed,  out  of  whicti  a  solitary,  mournful,  yet 
sweet  voice,  was  heard  singing,  far  up  amid  the 
arches  of  the  cathedral.  Soon  another  was  added, 
the  music  gradually  became  more  distinct,  as  other 
voices  mingled,  until  nearly  three  hundred  singers 
accompanied  by  the  organ,  and  a  full  band  of 
music,  swelled  the  grand  chorus,  making  the  service 
sublime  and  impressive  beyond  description. 

The  Piazza  San  Marco  is  the  largest  open  square 
in  Venice,  and  there  every  evening  a  fine  band  of 
music  plays,  while  around  innumerable  little  tables 
are  seated  the  Venetians,  enjoying  wine  and  ices, 
while  promenaders  pass  and  repass  unceasingly. 

One  side  of  the  Piazza  is  bounded  by  the  palace 
of  the  Doges.  In  the  great  council  hall  is  Tintoret- 
to's "  Paradise,"  next  to  the  largest  painting  on 
canvas  in  the  world,  being  over  eighty  feet  in 
width,  by  thirty-five  in  height.  This  room  also 
contains  the  portraits  of  all  the  Doges  of  Venice,  ex- 


VENICE,  "  CITY  OF  THE  SEA."  77 

cepting  one.  In  another  room  is  the  "  Last  Judg- 
ment "  of  Pahna  the  Yomiger,  a  magnificent  work 
of  art.  The  palace  is  filled  with  paintings  of  Titian 
and  Tintoretto,  who  were  both  born  in  Yenice. 

Leading  from  the  palace  to  the  prison,  over  the 
canal,  is  the  terrible  "Bridge  of  Sighs."  I  shud- 
dered as  I  walked  across,  and  saw  the  little  window 
through  which  many  a  victim  had  taken  his  last 
look  of  the  light  of  day. 

By  the  assistance  of  our  cicerone  and  lighted 
lamps,  we  proceeded  through  a  dark  passage,  to  the 
dungeons  below  ;  they  were  small  and  dismal.  If 
they  could  speak,  what  tales  of  horror  would  they 
tell  of  the  tyranny  of  the  secret  council  of  Venice. 

The  Campanile,  or  bell-tower,  the  arsenal,  church 
of  Santa  Maria  della  Salute,  Santa  Maria  dei  Frari, 
containing  the  remains  of  Titian  and  Canova,  the 
celebrated  bronze  horses,  brought  from  Alexandria 
to  Rome,  from  Rome  to  Constantinople,  thence  to 
Venice,  from  there  to  Paris,  and  after  the  downfall 
of  Napoleon,  coTried  back  to  San  Marco,  are 
among  the  wonders  of  Venice. 


^g  VENICE,  "  CITY  GF  THE  SEA." 

Every  pleasant  afternoon  can  be  seen  the  upper 
classes,  attired  as  for  a  festive  occasion,  gliding 
along  in  tlieir  gondolas  up  and  down  the  grand 
canal.  The  social  position  of  the  occupant  is  deter- 
mined by  the  dress  of  the  gondolier. 

Standing  upon  the  balcony  of  our  hotel  one  after- 
noon, the  solemn  strains  of  a  funeral  dirge  were 
heard  coming  across  the  water.  In  a  little  square 
opposite  was  a  funeral  procession,  headed  by  priests, 
marching  down  to  the  gondola.  They  approached  the 
water's  edge  and  deposited  the  corpse  in  a  gondola, 
which  was  prepared  for  the  occasion.  It  moved 
away  followed  by  several  more  carrying  the  mourn- 
ers. 

As  soon  as  the  funeral  cortege  sailed  under  the 
Rialto  and  turned  out  of  sight  the  band  began  to 
play  the  most  lively  airs,  and  the  people  went  on 
laughing  and  talking  merrily  as  if  nothing  had  hap- 
pened, or  asif  quickly  trying  to  drown  the  thoughts 
of  death.  The  procession  moved  to  the  cemetery 
which  is  on  the  island  of  Murano.  Here  all  are 
buried,  the  rich  and  poor,  nobles  and  beggars  lying 
peacefully  together. 


VENICE,  "  CITY  OF  THE  SEA."  79 

Our  last  evening  was  spent  sailing  througli  the 
different  streets  and  out  on  the  lagoon.  We  passed 
several  gondolas  with  hand  organs  in  them,  playing 
very  prettily.  The  scene  at  night  with  hundreds  of 
lights  sparkling  upon  the  water,  and  the  gondoliers 
shouting  to  one  another,  presents  a  novel  and  en- 
livening spectacle. 


CHAPTEE    X. 

MILAN    AND    GENOA. 

'ORNING  has  come,  and  we  must  bid  good 
bye  to  Venice.  Taking  tlie  early  train 
%  for  Milan,  we  journey  through  northern 
Italy,  a  very  fertile  country,  well  watered 
with  streams  from  the  Alps.  Quantities  of  mulberry 
plantations  are  observed  along  the  route,  some  of 
the  trees  entirely  divested  of  their  leaves,  which 
have  been  picked  to  feed  the  silk  worms.  We  pass 
many  Italian  cities,  towns,  and  villages  with  their 
lovely  habitations.  Lake  di  Garda,  the  largest  of 
the  Italian  lakes,  213  feet  above  the  sea,  and  famous 
for  its  sardines ;  Solferino,  where  the  allied  French 
and  Sardinians  fought  the  Austrians  under  Francis 
Joseph  in  1859,  and  gained  a  victory  after  sixteen 
hours  of  terrible  fighting.  The  French  forces  were 
led  by  Napoleon  III.,  and    the  Italians   by  Victor 


MILAN  AND  GENOA.  g^ 

Emanuel.  At  Brescia  we  saw  on  one  of  the  streets 
hU  tlie  fronts  of  the  buildmgs  covered  with  frescoes, 
presenting  a  very  quaint  appearance. 

Here  we  came  across  an  elderly  gentleman  with 
a  multitude  of  bags  and  bundles,  who  was  returning 
to  America  from  Jaffa,  having  been  there  to  inves- 
tigate the  condition  of  the  colony.  He  was  jovial 
and  agreeable,  rendering  the  remainder  of  our  ride 
quite  animated.  It  afforded  a  pleasure  to  meet  one 
that  we  could  converse  with  freely  in  our  own  lan- 
guage. 

At  the  hotel  San  Marco  in  Milan,  we  meet  a  min- 
ister from  Massachusetts  who  had  been  traveling  in 
Italy  over  a  year  for  his  health.  He  very  kindly 
sejved  us  as  a  valuable  guide  through  Milan. 

This  is  a  clean,  well  regulated  city,  containing 
considerable  wealth,  and  is  much  visited  by  Amer- 
icans. The  houses  are  large  and  many  of  them  are 
built  of  light  marble.  A  wall  surrounds  the  city, 
in  which  there  are  ten  massive  gates. 

The  Duomo,  or  Cathedral  of  Milan,  called  the 
eighth  wonder  of  the  world,  with  its  countless  pin- 


82  MILAN  AND  GENOA. 

nacles,  is  an  imposing  structure.  They  led  us  up 
nearly  two  hundred  steps  to  the  roof,  through  the 
chapels  and  high  arches  of  the  interior  and 
into  the  subterranean  passages  underneath,  but  as 
this  amazing  work  of  art  has  been  so  often  and 
graphically  described  by  other  writers,  I  will  forego 
any  further  description  of  it. 

On  the  wall  of  the  old  convent  adjoining  the 
church  of  Santa  Maria  delle  Grazie  is  Leonardo  Da 
Yinci's  fresco  painting  of  the  "Last  Supper,"  paint- 
ed there  by  him  in  the  year  1493.  He  was  engaged 
upon  it  nearly  sixteen  years.  This  painting,  to 
which  so  many  pilgrims  have  come,  is  fast  going  to 
decay  and  in  a  few  years  will  be  obliterated.  Da 
Yinci  was  so  fond  of  trying  experiments  in  the 
compounding  of  his  colors,  that  in  truth  it  may  be 
said  that  his  "  Last  Supper"  is  slowly  eating  itself  up. 

It  not  being  the  season  of  opera  in  Milan,  we  ob- 
tained permission  to  visit  II  Teatro"  La  Scala,  and 
had  it  lighted  for  our  benefit.  It  contains  six  tiers 
of  boxes  hung  with  crimson  and  gilt  drapery,  each 
one  will  accommodate  from  twenty  to  twenty-five 


MILAN  AND  GENOA.  33 

persons.  In  the  rear  of  eacli  box  are  rooms  for  the  toi- 
let and  attendants.  The  royal  box  is  situated  over 
the  entrance  opposite  the  stage,  and  is  decorated  in 
an  elaborate  style.  La  Scala  is  often  called  the  larg- 
est theater  in  the  world,  but  it  accommodates  one 
thousand  less  than  the  Bolshoi  of  St.  Petersburg, 
and  seven  hundred  less  than  the  Academy  of  Music 
in  Xew  York. 

Driving  on  the  Corso  we  meet  many  handsome 
equipages  in  which  are  seated  the  gaily  dressed 
Milanese  ladies.  The  peculiarity  of  their  attire  is 
a  black  lace  veil,  worn  upon  the  head  and  falling 
on  the  shoulders.  There  are  many  rich  palaces  in 
the  city.  In  one  is  a  fine  painting  of  the  marriage 
of  Napoleon  and  Maria  Louisa. 

From  "Milan  the  Great"  to  Genoa  we  have  our 
first  view  of  the  blue  waters  of  the  Mediterranean, 
on  which  we  expect  to  spend  much  time  during  the 
journey. 

Genoa  "  La  Superha,''  the  proud,  is  beautifully  sit- 
uated on  the  shore  of  the  Mediterranean  ;  but  like 
most  of  the  Italian  cities  it  has  an  old,  worn-out  ap- 


84  MILAN  AND  GENOA. 

pearance.  Its  streets  are  very  narrow,  most  of  them 
'being  only  a  few  feet  wide,  and  tlie  buildings  so  high 
that  the  sunlight  scarcely  ever  reaches  the  pavement. 
It  is  with  difficulty  we  make  our  way  through  the 
narrow  alleys  crowded  with  peddlers,  friars,  monks, 
beggars  and  donkeys,  to  the  promenade  where  the 
best  society  of  the  city  is  seen. 

We  meet  many  of  the  Genoese  ladies  with  the 
mazzro  or  head  covering  of  thin  white  muslin 
thrown  over  the  head  and  presenting  quite  a  pic- 
turesque effect.  It  is  hard  to  decide  which  is  the 
most  becoming,  the  black  veil  of  Milan  or  the  white 
veil  of  Genoa. 

The  city  abounds  in  palaces.  One  of  the  most 
celebrated  is  the  Palazzo  Boria^  so  long  the  residence 
of  the  Doria  family,  one  of  the  most  aristocratic  in 
Italy.  Among  the  churches  is  the  cathedral  of  San 
Lorenzo,  built  over  six  hundred  years  ago  of  white 
and  black  marble.  After  inspecting  the  statue  of 
Columbus,  the  old  Roman  wall,  and  making  some 
purchases  at  the  filigree  jewelry  stores,  we  take  the 
steamer  for  Leghorn. 


CHAPTER    XI. 

LEGHORN   AXD    FLORENCE. 

>T  Leghorn  we  became  acquainted  with  the 
^,§^jb  Rev.  Mr.  Langdon,  who  was  sent  from  the 
Q\\(M,  United  States  as  a  missionary  to  Italy.  He 
made  a  statement  about  the  religious  condi- 
tion of  the  Italian  people  which  I  will  repeat.  "There 
is,"  he  said,  "a  powerful  influence  at  work  to  dethrone 
the  Pope,  and  while  Victor  Emanuel  and  Garibaldi 
take  no  active  part  at  present,  yet  they  are  in  sym- 
pathy with  the  movement" 

This  is  a  great  day  in  the  city,  the  first  iron  clad 
vessel  ever  built  by  the  Italian  government  is 
to  be  launched.  We  have  a  fine  view  from  the  win- 
dows of  the  ofiice  of  the  American  consul,  who  is 
very  kind  in  endeavoring  to  aid  us  in  every  way  he 
can. 

The  streets,  tops  of  houses,  and  every  available 


86  .  LEGHORN  AND  FLORENCE. 

place  are  crowded  with  people  to  witness  the  launch. 
At  a  given  signal  the  "  Gonte  Verde'^  glides  grace- 
fully from  her  stocks  into  the  water  amid  the  cheer- 
ing of  the  people,  who  were  out  for  a  holiday.  The' 
women  of  the  poorest  class  wear  handkerchiefs  tied 
on  their  heads;  those  in  medium  circumstances 
wear  a  strip  of  white  lace  fastened  under  the  chin  ; 
only  the  wealthy  ladies  wear  bonnets. 

Leghorn  or  Livorno,  as  the  Italians  call  it,  is  the 
summer  resort  of  the  wealth  and  fashion  of  Rome 
and  Florence.  The  air  is  pure,  without  extreme 
heat  or  cold,  owing  to  the  sea  breeze  which  is  almost 
continuous. 

Near  the  quay  is  a  bronze  statue  to  commemorate 
the  capture  of  four  pirates  by  Ferdinand  1st. 

The  Jews  have  a  synagogue  which  is  one  of  the 
wealthiest  in  Italy. 

We  were  accompanied  to  Pisa  and  Florence  by  a 
lady  and  gentleman  belonging  to  the  Quake?'  City 
party,  and  we  now  begin  to  meet  the  excursionists 
scattered  through  Italy. 

Pisa  is  a  lonely  looking  city.       We  drive  at  once 


LEGHORN  AND  FLORENCE  87 

across  tlie  Arno  to  the  Campanile,  or  Leaning  Tow- 
er, to  tlie  Duomo,  Baptistry,  and  the  Campo  Santo, 
which  are  all  clustered  near  together.  Ascending 
the  winding  steps  of  the  leaning  tower,  nearly  two 
hundred  feet,  until  we  are  fatigued  and  quite  out  of 
breath,  we  reach  the  summit  of  the  second  wonder 
of  the  world.  The  view  is  fine,  but  there  is  a  feel- 
ing of  fear  possessing  you  that  cannot  be  shaken 
off ;  a  fear  that  you  are  about  to  fall.  The  tower  has 
remained  in  this  position  many  centuries.  There 
are  different  opinions  in  regard  to  its  origin  and 
leaning  position,  some  claiming  that  it  was  built  as 
it  now  stands,  others  that  the  foundation  sunk  while 
the  tower  was  being  erected.  This  opinion  is 
strengthened  by  the  fact  that  the  columns  are  of  un- 
equal length  about  midway  in  the  shaft,  as  though 
there  had  been  an  effort  to  restore  the  perpendicu- 
lar. In  fact  the  unequal  length  of  the  columns  can 
scarcely  be  accounted  for  by  any  other  hypothesis. 
The  tower  consists  of  two  circular  walls,  each  two 
feet  thick,  and  the  stairs  run  up  between  them. 
The  space  or  well  inside  the  inner  wall  is  ten   feet 


88  LEGHORN  AND  FLORENCE. 

across.  The  whole  tower  is  190  feet  high,  and  is 
divided  into  eight  stories,  each  one  having  a  balcony 
seven  feet  wide.  The  top  of  the  column  is  "  out  of 
the  true"  some  fifteen  feet ;  but  still  it  is  said  that 
"  the  line  of  gravity  falls  within  the  base^"  so  we  are 
foolish  to  have  any  fear  of  falling.  It  may  be  so, 
but  that  does  not  destroy  the  instinct  of  insecurity 
which  is  decidedly  unpleasant  to  say  the  least. 

In  the  Duomo  hangs  the  lamp  which  suggested 
the  idea  of  the  Pendulum  to  Galileo  when  he  was 
eighteen  years  of  age.     He  was  born  in  Pisa  in  15  64. 

Reaching  Florence,  we  take  a  room  at  the  "  Grand 
Hotel  De  I'Europe."  This  is  a  lovely  city,  built  on 
both  banks  of  the  river  Arno,  and  is  by  far  the  hand- 
somest and  most  cheerful  city  in  Italy.  It  abounds 
in  parks  and  gardens.  The  collections  of  paintings 
and  statuary  are  more  varied  and  ancient  than  in 
the  Louvre  or  at  Versailles ;  more  of  the  master- 
pieces of  Murillo,  Michael  Angelo,  Leonardo  Da  Yin- 
ci,  Raphael,  and  Rubens  are  seen  here  than  at  any 
other  place.  Days  are  required  to  wander  through 
the  miles  of  statuary  and  paintings  in  the  Pitti  pal- 


LEGHOBN  AND  FLORENCE.  g9 

ace,  the  Uffizi  galleries,  to  walk  over  the  gardens, 
and  to  examine  the  royal  plate  of  gold  and  silver, 
to  say  nothing  of  the  libraries  and  rich  museums. 

What  a  terrible  history  is  recorded  of  the  Medici 
family,  who  so  long  occupied  this  Pitti  palace.  Cos- 
mo di  Medici,  called  "  The  Great"  and  his  brother 
Lorenzo  The  Magnificent,  were  famous  patrons  of 
art  and  conspicuous  as  leaders  in  the  republic. 
Lorenzo  opened  a  garden  in  Florence  filled  with  an- 
tique statuary  and  devoted  it  to  the  use  of  artists. 
Among  those  who  availed  themselves  of  this  gar- 
den was  the  young  Michael  Angelo,  who  so  won  the 
admiration  of  Lorenzo  that  he  took  him  under  his 
special  patronage,  giving  him  rooms  in  the  palace 
and  treating  him  like  a  son.  Michael  Angelo's  stat- 
ue of  Lorenzo  in  the  Medici  Chapel  at  Florence  is 
one  of  the  most  renowned  works  of  art.  The  fa- 
mous Catharine  di  Medici  was  the  daughter  of  Lo- 
renzo. 

We  visited  the  house  of  Michael  Angelo,  still 
owned  by  his  descendants.  It  is  built  of  light  yel- 
low colored  stone,  three  stories  high,  with  iron  bar- 


90  LEGHORN  AND  FLORENCE. 

red  windows,  whicli  is  the  Florentine  style.     With- 
in are  relics  of  him  and  some  of  his"  paintings. 

Dante's  house  is  very  different  in  architecture, 
the  roof  projecting  over  the  sidewalk,  and  much 
more  anticpae  looking  than  that  of  Michael  Angelo. 
Galileo's  villa  where  he  received  Milton  is  alst 
in  a  good  state  of  preservation.  The  Cathedral  or 
Duomo  with  its  peerless  dome  and  extraordinarily 
handsome  stained  glass  windows,  the  Baptistry  with 
its  curious  bronze  doors  which  Michael  Angelo  said 
were  beautiful  enough  to  be  the  gates  of  Paradise, 
the  church  of  San  Lorenzo  containing  the  tomb  in 
which  are  buried  the  Medici  family,  the  church  of 
Santa  Croce  where  Michael  Angelo  Buonarotti,  Mac- 
chiavelli,  Galileo,  Alfieri,  and  other  illustrious  great 
are  buried ;  the  house  of  Americus  Yespucci,  the 
Cascine  which  is  the  Bois  de  Bologne  of  the  Floren- 
tines, all  came  in  for  their  share  of  attention.  We 
spent  a  pleasant  hour  at  the  studio  of  the  American 
sculptor  Hiram  Powers,  who  has  acquired  a  world 
wide  fame.  He  is  a  pleasant  unaffected  gentleman  ap- 
parently about  60  years  of  age,  and  so  cordial  in  his 


LEGHORN.  AND  LLORENCE. 


91 


manner  that  we  felt  quite  at  home  while  he  was  en- 
tertaining us  in  his  parlor.  He  then  accompanied 
us  all  through  his  studio ;  among  other  statues 
just  finished  was  one  of  the  "Greek  Slave,"  for 
which  he  asked  four  thousand  dollars.  He  had  also 
just  completed  a  bust  of  his  wife  and  was  at  work 
upon  one  of  his  daughter. 

Mr.  Povv^ers  informed  us  that  the  time  was  not  far 
distant  when  he  should  return  to  America  to  spend 
the  remainder  of  his  days. 

Passing  across  the  square  in  front  of  the  Ducal 
palace  one  evening,  we  met  a  funeral  procession 
which  had  more  of  the  weird  and  ghastly  about  it 
than  any  thing  I  had  seen  abroad.  It  was  a  proces- 
sion of  priests  in  black  masks  and  long  black  gowns. 
As  they  marched  along  with  slow  and  measured 
tread,  each  bearing  a  lighted  torch  in  his  hand,  they 
chanted  a  solemn  funeral  dirge  in  Latin.  The  coffin, 
covered  with  a  black  pall  reaching  nearly  to  the 
ground  and  supporting  a  large  white  cross  at  its 
head,  was  borne  by  the   same  ghastly  masks.     A 

procession  of  this  character  in  the  night   in  an  illy 
6 


92  LEGHORN  AND  FLORENCE. 

lighted  street,  is  certainly  well  calculated  to  strike  a 
vague  terror  to  tlie  heart  of  the  strongest. 

Florence  excels  Leghorn  in  its  alabaster  works ;  in 
the  windows  of  its  numerous  alabaster  stores  which 
are  on  almost  every  street,  are  seen  models  of  "  The 
Dancing  Girls  of  Italy,"  "  The  Three  Graces,"  ''  The 
Greek  Slave,"  "  The  Yenus  di  Medici,"  "  The  Apol- 
lo Belvidere,"  and  exquisite  imitations  of  the  Lean- 
ing Tower  of  Pisa.  One  of  the  most  curious  things 
in  Florence  is  the  Ponte  Yecchio  or  old  bridge  over 
the  Arno.  The  carriage-way  is  lined  on  either  side 
by  quaint  jewelry  shops,  and  overhead  is  the  fa- 
mous secret  passage  or  gallery  connecting  the  Pitti 
palace  on  one  side  of  the  Arno  with  the  Palazzo 
Yecchio  on  the  other.  Another  object  of  inter- 
est which  we  visited  was  the  old  Roman  wall,  now 
being  removed  by  order  of  the  King.  From  "  Fair 
Florence,"  then  we  turned  our  steps  to  Rome. 


CHAPTER   XII. 


no^iE. 


JYITA  Yecchia,  Cervetri,  Palo,  and  we  hear 
tlie  cry  "  Homa  !  Roma  !  "     Our   passports 

and  baggage  being  attended  to  we  proceed 

to  the  ''Hotel  de  Roma." 
Is  this  the  city  of  the  seven  hills  ?  "  The  Eter- 
nal City,"  founded  seven  hundred  and  fifty-two  years 
before  Christ  ?  Is  this  the  Rome  once  over  fifty 
miles  in  circumference,  whose  empire  ruled  almost 
the  whole  known  world  ?  Is  this  the  home  of  the 
Caesars  ?  Are  these  the  streets  along  which  Rom- 
ulus, Adrian,  Nero,  Titus,  and  Constantine,  rode  in 
triumph,  returning  from  victorious  battles?  Yes, 
Rome,  I  stand  upon  thy  classic  soil,  but  thy  glory 
has  departed.  I  see  the  remnants  of  thy  marble 
fountains,  the  broken  pillars  of  thy  temples  and 
palaces,    the   ruins   of  thy   Forum,    the   decaying 


94  HOME.     • 

forms  of  tlij  arches,  tlij  Coliseum,  Pautheon,  mon- 
uments, and  broken  walls  all  pointing  to  thy  ancient 
power  and  splendor. 

These  are  thoughts  which  crowd  upon  my  mind, 
as  I  go  from  place  to  place,  in  modern  Eome. 

We  have  comfortable  apartments  at  the  Hotel  de 
Roma  and  good  fare.  It  was  at  this  Hotel  that  the 
Empress  Carlotta,  wife  of  the  unfortunate  Maximil- 
ian, remained  while  visiting  the  Pope  for  advice, 
and  consolation  in  her  time  of  grief  The  landlord 
with  much  pride  shows  to  his  guests  the  suite  of 
rooms  which  she  occupied. 

Several  vetturini  or  hackmeu  are  ready  every 
morning,  each  one  anxious  to  be  engaged  for  the 
day.  It  is  an  old  saying,  that  there  is  a  church  in 
Rome  for  every  day  of  the  year,  thirty  thousand 
priests,  and  as  many  beggars.  We  soon  began  to 
believe  in  the  truth  of  the  saying,  for  everywhere 
we  went,  priests  and  beggars  were  to  be  seen  in 
great  numbers.  The  beggars  are  very  persevering. 
Some  meeting  with  success  in  obtaining  a  few  copper 
coins,  would  rush  around  the  corner,  and  take  theii^ 


ROME.  95 

place  on  anotlier  street,  and  confronting  jou  with 
voice  and  look  changed,  importnne  with  all  the 
energy  of  their  first  attack,  declaring  that  they  had 
never  seen  you  before.  The  lazzaroni  are  up  to  a 
thousand  tricks. 

There  are  about  six  thousand  Jews  in  Rome, 
inhabiting  a  part  of  the  city,  called  the  Ghetto. 
They  were  formerly  much  oppressed  by  the 
Romans,  but  now  greater  liberty  is  granted  them. 
They  trace  their  ancestry  back  to  the  prisoners 
which  Titus  brought  to  Rome  from  Jerusalem,  in 
the  first  century  of  our  era. 

As  every  stranger  visits  St.  Peter's  first,  we  will 
not  be  an  exception  to  the  rule.  Entering  the 
^'•Piazza  di  San  Pietro^^^  the  eye  sweeps  around  a 
avast  colonnade  of  over  three  hundred  and  sixty 
columns,  surmounted  by  statues.  Crossing  the 
piazza  by  the  Egyptian  obelisk,  with  a  fountain  on 
the  right  and  left,  we  approach  St.  Peters.  Over 
the  entrance  are  immense  statues  of  Christ,  and  the 
twelve  apostles.  Ascending  the  steps,  and  pushing 
aside  the  heavy  curtain  in  front  of  the  door,  we  en- 


96  ROME. 

ter,  and  stand  for  some  time  contemplating  the  im- 
mensity of  the  interior  of  a  struct  are,  costing  over 
one  hundred  million  dollars.  Numerous  chapels, 
diverging  from  the  main  aisle,  are  filled  with  altars 
and  paintings.  The  lofty  ceiling  is  richly  carved 
and  gilded.  There  hang  the  pontifical  keys.  As 
we  approach  the  high  altar  beneath  the  great  dome 
and  over  St.  Peter's  grave,  on  the  right  is  the 
statue  of  St.  Peter.  We  see  a  procession  of  people 
passing  the  statue,  each  one  stopping  to  kiss  the 
great  toe  which  is  almost  worn  away,  although 
made  of  bronze.  Often  could  be  seen  a  beggar, 
performing  the  ceremony,  perhaps  the  next  in  turn 
an  elegantly  attired  lady,  who  would  take  out  a 
a  highly  perfumed  handkerchief,  and  wipe  the  toe, 
before  putting  her  lips  to  it.  All  seemed  to  go 
away  with  the  consciousness  that  they  had  performed 
a  sacred  duty.  Arranged  around  in  the  side  aisles, 
were  a  large  number  of  confessional  boxes,  each  one 
containing  a  priest  and  penitent,  while  several 
would  be  waiting  their  turn  to  confess  their  sins. 
One  is  impressed  with  the  vastness  of  St.  Peters 


ROME.  97 

when  standing  on  tlie  marble  pavement  below,  but 
even  more  while  ascending  to  the  dome. 

Next  in  importance  is  the  church  of  St.  John 
Lateran,  so  called  from  the  Senator  Plautius  Later- 
anus,  put  to  death  by  Nero.  The  popes  are 
crowned  in  this  church.  It  contains  the  tomb  of 
the  present  Pope,  which  he  has  ordered  built 
at  great  expense.  Near  the  Lateran  are  the  Holy 
Stairs,  up  which  can  be  seen  people  ascending  on 
their  knees. 

In  the  church  of  Maria  Maggiore,  is  a  painting  of 
the  ^^Yirgin  and  Child,"  by  St.  Luke;  it  looks  very 
old  and  the  figures  are  just  discernable  by  the  aid 
of  our  opera  glasses.  The  frame  is  composed  of 
the  most  precious  stones.  This  painting  was  car- 
ried by  Gregory  the  Great,  through  Home,  at  the 
head  of  a  procession,  to  stop  a  terrible  plague  that 
was  raging  during  his  reign. 

One  cannot  fail  to  be  impressed  with  the  thought 
while  gazing  upon  these  great  structures  filled  with 
the  mostly  costly  works  of  art,  that  it  is  a  great  waste 


98  ROME. 

of  money  while  tliousancls  of  the  citizens  of  Rome 
are  sunk  in  ignorance  and  poverty. 

One  fact  tells  loudly  of  the  decadence  of  Chris- 
tian Rome  or  of  bad  management  under  the  Popes. 
While  there  have  been  so  many  hundreds  of  mil- 
lions expended  upon  the  churches  in  former  times, 
the  government  of  the  present  day  is  not  able  to 
raise  money  enough  to  keep  them  in  repair ! 

St.  Paul's  church  or  the  "Tomb  of  St.  Paul,"  out- 
side of  the  city,  I  must  not  include  in  the  above. 
It  is  built  of  many  varieties  of  the  most  beautiful 
colored  marbles,  and  contains  the  portraits  of  all 
the  Popes,  executed  in  mosaic.  This  building  is  in 
perfect  repair,  and  is  the  finest  tomb  in  the  world. 
Near  St.  Paul's  gate  is  the  Pyramid  of  Caius  Cestius, 
and  the  tomb  of  Shelley  bearing  the  inscription  "  cor 
cordium''  or  ''\\QViYi  of  hearts."  After  the  burn- 
ing of  his  body  in  the  presence  of  Leigh  Hunt, 
Lord  Byron,  and  other  friends,  the  heart  of  the  poet, 
it  is  said,  was  found  among  the  ashes  perfect  and 
entire. 

We  next  visited  the  Flavian    Amphitheatre  or 


ROME,  ICl 

Coliseum,  dedicated  by  Titus  in  the  year  80,  on  which 
occasion  according  to  Eutropius,  five  thousand  wild 
beasts  were  destroyed.  Dion  places  the  number  at 
nine  thousand.  This  gigantic  structure  was  capable 
of  holding  from  eighty  thousand  to  one  hundred 
thousand  spectators.  It  is  in  an  elliptical  form, 
five  hundred  and  ten  feet  broad  and  six  hun- 
dred and  fifteen  feet  long.  The  arena  itself  is 
two  hundred  and  -eighty-one  feet  long  by  one 
hundred  and  seventy-six  feet  wide.  Around  this 
arena  countless  thousands  have  assembled  to  see 
their  fellow  beings  torn  to  pieces  by  wild  beasts ! 
The  gladiators  have  met  hero  in  fierce  combat,  their 
life's  blood  ebbing  avfay  amid  the  shouts  and  huzzas 
of  the  multitude.  I  call  to  mind  one  scene,  as  I 
stand  within  these  mouldering  walls. 

It  was  a  holiday  in  Rome  in  the  fifth  century. 
Gathered  from  all  parts  of  the  city,  until  the  seats  of 
the  Coliseum  were  crowded,  are  the  fairest  and 
best  of  Rome's  society.  Seated  in  the  imperial  box, 
with  his  nobles  around  him,  is  the  good  king  Honor- 
ias,  who  had  just  arrived,  with  Stilicho  his  victorious 
general. 


102  ^^^^^^• 

The  gladiators  enter  the  arena,  and  the  conflict 
commences.  One  after  another  is  slain.  Death- 
like silence  prevails,  while  two  are  in  deadly  con- 
flict. Suddenly  a  stranger  enters  the  circle,  and 
springing  between  the  powerful  combatants, 
wrests  their  swords  from  their  hands  and  becomes 
master  of  the  arena.  Turning  toward  the  imperial 
box  the  interrupter  of  the  spectacle,  Telemachus  a 
monk,  began  to  address  the  Emperor,  calling  upon 
him  in  the  name  of  a  christian  people,  to  cease  such 
bloody  scenes.  A  howl  of  rage  went  up  from  the 
assembled  throng,  as  they  hurled  upon  him  a 
shower  of  stones.  He  fell  to  the  earth,  again  and 
again  he  attempted  to  rise,  but  was  beaten  down. 
At  last  he  slowly  and  with  a  mighty  struggle  raised 
himself  and  turned  toward  Honorius,  but  could  not 
speak.  He  sank  back  upon  the  ground,  dying  with 
a  smile  upon  his  countenance,  as  the  last  words 
which  he  heard  was  the  solemn  declaration  of  the 
Emperor  in  the  presence  of  his  God,  that  this  was 
the  last  of  such  scenes  which  should  ever  be  wit- 


ROME. 


103 


nessed   in  Rome;    and  this  martyr  the  last   who 
should  fall  on  the  arena  of  the  Coliseum. 

Rome  is  so  rich  in  monuments  of  its  ancient 
splendor  that  it  is  difficult  to  decide — not  what  to 
describe,  but  what  to  leave  out  of  any  general  de- 
scription of  the  city.  The  Castle  of  St.  Angelo 
deserves  mention  certainly.     It  is  a  citadel  whose 


CASTLE   OF   ST.    ANGELO,   ROME. 


center  or  nucleus  was  the   tomb  of  Hadrian,  and  it 

now  serves  as  a  state  prison.     It  is  connected  with 

the  palace  of  the  Vatican  by  a  long  covered  gallery. 

I  will  not  delay  to  pen  a  description  of  the  Pan- 


204  ROME. 

tlieon,  built  in  the  3^ear  twenty-seven  by  King 
Agrippa,  in  wliicli  lie  the  remains  of  Raphael;  the 
Mamertine  prison  where  St.  Peter  was  confined ; 
the  Quirinal;  the  Pope's  summer  palace;  Hadrian's 
Villa ;  Csesar's  palace  on  Palatine  Hill ;  the  Appian 
Way  or  the  Vatican  with  its  four  thousand  rooms, 
its  vast  number  of  statues  and  other  sculptured 
treasures  of  ancient  art.  What  a  thrilling  inter- 
est they  awaken  in  one  when  wandering  among 
them !  In  the  painting  gallery  of  the  Vatican  is 
Raphael's  last  work,  "The  Transfiguration." 

Every  one  before  leaving  the  city  is  expected  to 
purchase  a  few  Roman  scarfs,  also  some  mosaics, 
which  are  here  largely  manufactured,  the  material 
being  given  out  from  the  Vatican. 

While  seated  at  breakfast  our  cicerone  informed 
us  that  we  could  see  Mastai  Ferretti,  the  Pope. 
Hastening  to  the  Vatican  we  left  o.ur  carriage  near 
the  colonnade,  then  walked  up  the  long  marble  steps 
between  files  of  papal  soldiers,  and  took  our  position 
at  the  entrance  of  the  hall.  In  a  moment  his  Holi- 
ness stood  in  front  of  us ;  and   reaching  forth  his 


ROME. 


105 


hand,  with  three  fingers  extended,  gave  us  his 
blessing.  He  has  a*  mild  and  pleasant  countenance, 
his  hair  is  white  with  the  frost  of  time,  and  he  moves 
with  a  slow  and  steady  step.  He  was  dressed  in  a 
crimson  velvet  robe,  embroidered  with  gold,  with 
an  ermine  tippet,  and  a  black  velvet  cap  upon  his 
head.  Accom^Danied  by  two  of  his  cardinals,  who 
wore  long  black  velvet  robes,  and  followed  by  a 
long  train  of  attendants,  he  entered  a  massive  car- 
riage, richly  decorated  with  gold  ornaments,  and 
drawn  by  six  superb  black  horses,  surrounded  by 
a  mounted  body  guard  of  about  two  hundred  and 
fifty.  The  cortege  moved  to  the  church  of  the 
Maggiore.  As  Ihey  passed  along  the  streets  many 
of  the  people  fell  upon  their  knees. 

Over  sixteen  years  the  Pope  has  been  guarded 
by  French  troops,  who  have  recently  been  with- 
drawn. As  Rome  is  now  to  be  the  capital 
of  Italy,  and  the  residence  of  its  king,  we  may 
expect  a  great  change. 

Will  Rome  again  become  a  powerful  and  a  splen- 
did city?     Under  the  new  regime,  the  first  element 


LOG  ^''>^^^- 

of  which  is  the  separation  of  the  Church  and  State, 
everything  is  possible,  though  the  most  devotedly- 
blind  adherents  to  the  Pope  see  in  his  loss  of  tempo- 
ral power,  the  decline  of  the  principle  of  religion 
in  society  ;  forgetting  that  superstition  is  not  neces- 
sarily piety,  nor  blind  devotion  to  dogmas  a  sign  of 
religious  sentiment.  Certainly  this  is  the  age  of 
iconoclasm,  but  we  must  expect  the  first  effects  of  re- 
ligious freedom  to  be  extravagantly  disorderly  ;  still 
we  may  trust  to  nature  in  this  as  in  all  other  cases . 
to  establish  the  equilibrium.  Give  the  railroad,  the 
telegraph,  and  the  public  school  a  fair  show  against 
the  dogma  of  Infallibility  and  the  dogma  will  have 
to  yield.  Rome,  the  capital  of  free  Italy,  may  yet 
become  the  "  mistress  of  the  world  "  in  a  far  nobler 
sense  than  ever  before. 


CHAPTER    XIII. 

FROM    ROME    TO    NAPLES. 

HE  Romans  enjoy  at  least  one  luxury  during 
even  the  warmest  months  of  the  year,  they 
h^ve  an  abundance  of  pure  cool  water. 
In  summer  it  is  not  considered  prudent 
for  strangers  to  leave  their  rooms  before  sunrise  or 
after  sunset  owing  to  a  malaria  which  arises  from 
the  Pontine  marshes. 

These  marshes  are  the  low  southern  portion  of 
the  Campagna — a  vast  tract  of  land  surrounding 
Rome.  The  soil  of  the  Campagna  is  volcanic,  some 
of  its  lake  basins  being  extinct  craters.  The  marsh- 
es cover  a  plain  some  twenty  four  miles  long  and 
eight  or  ten  miles  wide,  being  formed  by  several 
small  streams  that  flow  down  the  Yolscian  moun- 
tains, and  finding  no  outlet  to  the  sea  through  the 
sand  drifts,  spread  over  the  land.     Once,  however, 


108  FROM  ROME  TO  yAPLES. 

the  site  of  tlie  Pontine  marshes  was  dry,  for  the  Ap- 
pian  way  was  carried  over  them  some  three  .  hund- 
red years  before  Christ.  Julius  Caesar,  Augustus, 
and  others  have  attempted  to  drain  them.  A  canal 
was  dug  along  the  Appian  way  which  Horace  in 
the  year  37  B.  C.  speaks  of  traveling  over.  The  mi- 
asma rising  from  these  marshes  is  not  often  carried 
as  far  as  the  city    except   by  strong  south  winds. 

Leaving  E^ome  in  the  morning  we  were  again 
subjected  to  the  passport  and  luggage  annoyance, 
as  the  Papal  authorities  are  more  strict  than  any 
which  we  have  found  in  Europe. 

Riding  along  the  Campagna,  on  every  hand  are 
relics  of  ancient  Rome — here  an  old  castle,  there  an 
old  wall  or  tower,  and  for  a  long  distance  out  of  the 
city  can  be  seen  the  ruins  of  the  old  Roman  acque- 
duct,  one  of  the  famous  relics  of  the  ancient  wealth 
and  greatness  of  Rome. 

The  female  peasantry  are  at  work  in  the  fields, 
some  gathering  while  others  are  preparing  vegeta- 
bles for  market ;  they  appear  industrious  and  cheer- 
ful.    It  is  a  well   known  assertion  that  the   moral 


FROM  ROME  TO  NAPLES.  HI 

condition  of  tlie  country  people  of  Italy  is  mucli  su- 
perior to  that  of  those  residing  in  the  cities.  We  pas- 
sed large  orchards  of  cork  trees,  many  with  the  thick 
bark  recently  taken  off  the  trunk  for  exportation. 
Quite  a  revenue  is  derived  from  this  source.  One" 
notably  picturesque  scene  attracts  our  attention  as 
we  drew  near  the  city  of  Naples.  This  was  the 
peasant  women  carrying  quaint  vases  of  water  on 
their  heads. 

At  Caserta,  on  the  route,  is  the  palace  where  for- 
merly resided  the  king  of  Naples.  It  is  a  large  and 
elegant  structure,  now  unoccupied,  covering  seve- 
ral acres. 

Here    the  vineyards,  which  are   the   wealth  of 
Italian  husbandry,  have  a   lovely  peculiarity.     The 
vines  are  twined  from  tree  to  tree   by  means  of  a 
rope,   and  hang  in  beautiful  garlands. 
"  Here  the  vines  wed   each   her  elm." 

Rattling  through  the  streets  of  Naples  to  the 
Hotel  de  Amerique,  we  are  once  more  in  sight 
of  the  Mediteranean,  with  the  steamer  Quaker  City 
anchored  in  the  bay. 


112  FROM  ROME  TO  NAPLES. 

Naples  is  proverbial  for  the  beauty  of  its  situation  ; 
it  is  built  along  the  bay  of  Naples,  forming  a  half 
circle  or  crescent,  and  like  the  rest  of  the  Italian 
cities,  it  has  plenty  of  churches,  priests,  and  lazzaro- 
ni.  The  Neapolitans  are  a  gay  people  and  devotees 
to  the  shrine  of  pleasure.  They  think  much  of 
their  beauty,  and  the  height  of  their  ambition  is  to 
ride  in  a  carriage  along  the  fashionable  drive  by 
the  bay.  Women  of  any  social  rank  do  not  walk 
in  the  streets,  it  being  derogatory  to  their  dignity. 
On  the  flat  roofs  of  their  houses  adorned  with  shrubs 
and  flowers,  the  women  frequently  find  nearly  all 
of  tiieir  out-of-door  exercise.  Living  costs  but  lit- 
tle to  the  poor  of  Naples.  Three  cents  procures  a 
meal  of  macaroni,  and  three  more  a  dish  of  good 
fish,  or  vegetables  fried  in  oil.  These  luxuries  are 
supplied  by  the  itinerant  street  cooks.  For  a  frac- 
tion of  a  cent  the  Neapolitan  has  a  glass  of  iced 
water,  and  for  two,  an  addition  of  sugar  and  grape 
juice.  Ice  is  abundant  from  natural  ice  caverns  in 
the  rocks  above  Sorrento  and  even  on  Vesuvius. 
This  ice  is  taken  out  in  the  evening,  and  made  to  slide 


J  />.  >o'i^||  ||)  III         iliiKilliniiniiiiiininMLi 
4k  1 


11- 


FROM  ROME  TO  NAPLES,  1  ]  7 

clown  the  mountain  on  ropes  ;  then  it  is  put  into 
boats  which  carry  it  across  the  bay  and  land  it  in 
the  early  morning. 

The  street  scenes  are  very  animated.  Here  and 
there  are  groups  of  girls,  not  the  most  tidy  looking, 
some  playing  upon  musical  instruments,  others  sing- 
ing. Along  comes  a  curious  kind  of  vehicle  drawn 
by  one  horse.  It  is  a  platform  set  upon  two  wheels 
with  a  high  and  low  seat,  filled  with  people.  On 
the  front  and  back  stand  those  who  cannot  sit  down, 
the  number  sometimes  ranging  from  twelve  to  fif- 
teen, a  motley  looking  crowd,  all  talking  and  laugh- 
ing. 

I  was  exceedingly  amused  to  see  the  old  market 
men  and  women  trotting  along  with  their  donkeys 
loaded  with  vegetables,  each  donkey  decked  out 
gaily  with  different  colored  worsteds  on  their  heads 
and  strings  of  large  blue  beads  around  their  necks. 
Some  with  great  frames  on  their  backs  filled  with 
lemons,  figs,  grapes,   peaches,  pears,  and  apricots. 

The  fruit  here  is  delicious,  plenty,  and  very  cheap, 
and  in  the  fruit  season  forms  the  chief  article  of  food 


2X8  FROM  ROME  TO  NAPLES. 

for  the  people.  With  this  and  a  little  macaroni 
they  make  many  a  meal. 

Flower  girls  are  numerous  and  often  annoyingly 
persistent  in  selling  their  bouquets.  They  seldom 
ask  you  to  buy,  but  running  along  beside  your  car- 
riage, toss  their  flowers  into  it  and  keep  up  the 
chase  until  they  get  their  pay.  If  you  hand  the 
flowers  back  they  are  sure  to  toss  them  up  to 
you  again,  so  the  most  satisfactory  way  is  to  pur- 
chase at  once.  Frequently  in  the  evening,  the 
street  singers  would  come  beneath  our  window, 
and  with  their  clear  voices,  would  sweetly  sing 
their  native  songs. 

This  place  is  a  great  coral  mart.  No  one  should 
come  to  Naples  without  calling  into  the  coral  shops 
to  see  the  exquisite  workmanship. 

An  interesting  excursion  from  the  city  is  to  the 
Bay  of  Baiae,  and  the  hot  mineral  springs,  former- 
ly called  the  hot  baths  of  Nero.  Csesar,  Augustus, 
Tiberias,  Caligula,  and  Nero  once  resorted  to  this 
place,  which  was  the  fashionable  resort  of  the  Ro- 
man nobles,  who  for  want  of  room  often  built  their 


FROM  ROME  TO  NAPLES.  121 

houses  out  into  the  bay.  Their  submarine  founda- 
tions are  still  to  be  seen,  as  are  also  certain  circular 
buildings  which  they  built  for  their  hot  baths.  To 
reach  these  baths  we  passed  through  the  Grotto 
di  Pozzuoli,  a  tunnel  over  2000  feet  long  and  exca- 
vated in  the  mountain.  Near  the  entrance  is  the  cel- 
ebrated columbarium  covered  with  vines,  called  the 
tomb  of  Yirgil. 

The  mineral  baths  are  much  resorted  to  by  inva- 
lids, and  the  building  over  them  is  fitted  up  conven- 
iently with  many  bath-rooms.  In  the  center  of  the 
reception  room  is  a  fountain  of  hot  water,  and  under 
the  hall  the  proprietor  showed  us  one  of  the  natu- 
ral springs.  The  steam  that  arose  from  it  was  hot 
and  suffocating. 

The  Neapolitans  have  two  Campo  Santos,  one 
vv^here  the  wealthy  are  buried  with  much  care,  the 
other  for  the  poor  who  are  all  huddled  together  in 
one  vault.  All  the  funerals  take  place  at  night. 
The  explanation  given  is  that  the  sight  of  the  fune- 
rals passing  through  the  streets  in  the  day  time  had 
so  serious  an  effect  on  the  minds  of  the  people,   as 


122  FROM  ROME  TO  NAPLES. 

to  often  produce  a  panic ;  and  for  tliis  reason  the 
government  ordered  that  all  burials  should  take 
place  at  midnight.  Returning  to  our  hotel  one  eve- 
ning, we  met  one  of  these  funeral  processions,  and 
were  informed  that  it  was  some  rich  person  who  had 
died.  There  were  a  number  of  men  walking  in 
white  masks  and  gowns,  carrying  long  lighted  can- 
dles; following  were  several  priests  chanting.  The 
coffin,  which  was  covered  with  black  velvet  and  gilt 
trimmings,  was  costly  and  elaborate.  It  was  borne 
on  the  shoulders  of  men,  followed  by  the  relatives 
and  friends  of  the  deceased. 

The  castle  of  St.  Elmo  crowns  a  high  rock  over- 
looking the  whole  city  and  guarding  it  by  its  numer- 
ous guns. 

The  figure  of  the  Veiled  Christ,  in  one  of  the 
chapels,  is  a  very  curious  wor^  of  art.  It  is  a  full 
length  figure  over  which  rests  a  thin,  delicate  veil, 
so  gauzy  that  through  it  each  feature  is  distinctly 
visible,  and  even  the  expression  of  the  face,  and  yet 
it  is  all  wrought  out  of  a  solid  block  of  Carrara  mar- 
ble.    We  did  not  learn  the  sculptor  s  name. 


FROM  ROME  TO  NAPLES.  123 

In  tliG  cathedral  of  Naples  is  the  celebrated  Chap- 
el of  San  Gennarro  or  Saint  Januarius,  the  patron 
saint  of  the  city.  This  Chapel  contains  the  two  vials 
of  the  blood  of  the  Saint — on  ordinary  days  ap- 
parently a  small  quantity  of  dried  substance  in  the 
bottom  of  the  vials.  Another  chapel  contains  the 
Saint's  head  in  a  glass  case.  These  are  exposed  to 
public  view  on  certain  occasions,  and  when  the 
head  is  brous^ht  near  the  bottles  an  alleo^ed  miracle 
occurs.  The  dark  substance  in  the  vials  is  seen  to 
grow  red  and  then  rise  and  bubble — to  all  ap- 
pearance becoming  fresh  blood.  This  liquid  soon 
falls  again  when  the  head  is  removed,  and  returns 
to  the  original  dark  dry  substance.  During  the  feast 
of  St.  Januarius  this  miracle  continues  some  days, 
and  scientific  men  have  witnessed  it  and  have  giv- 
en more  or  less  plausible  explanations  of  it ;  but  it  is 
needless  to  say  that  they  would  not  be  permitted  to 
subject  it  to  a  scientific  investigation.  Relics  must 
not  be  subjected  to  the  touch  of  sacrilegious  hands. 
Eoman  Catholics  believe  the  liquefaction  of  the  blood 


124  FROM  ROME  TO  NAPLES. 

of  Saint  Januarius  to  be  a  real  miracle.  Pope  Pius 
11.  mentions  the  miracle  as  early  as  1450. 

To  describe  tlie  rich  collections  of  the  Museo 
Borbonico  would  require  too  much  space.  It  com- 
prises a  vast  and  ever  increasing  collection  of  treas- 
ures from  the  excavations  of  the  buried  cities  of 
Herculaneum  and  Pompeii,  besides  its  galleries  of 
paintings,  statuary,  Egyptian  antiquities,  bronzes, 
pottery,  coins,  and  its  valuable  library.  In  several 
of  the  galleries  artists  were  busy  copying  the  works 
of  the  masters. 

In  parting  for  a  time  from  the  museums  and  gal- 
leries of  art  in  Europe,  I  take  the  liberty  of  saying 
that  I  have  often  noticed  Americans  bestowing  much 
unnecessary  admiration  on  works  of  art,  simply  be- 
cause some  guide  book  had  extolled  them.  On  the 
other  hand,  there  is  much  to  be  seen  which  cannot 
fail  to  excite  wonder  and  admiration  ;  for  instance, 
I  do  not  understand  how  any  one  can  gaze  ujDon 
Murillo's  "  Conception"  in  the  Louvre,  RaphaeFs 
"  Transfiguration"  in  the  Vatican,  Giovane's  "  Last 
Judgment,"  and  Tintoretto's  "  Paradise  "  in  Venice, 


FROM  ROME  TO  NAPLES.  125 

or  Paul  Veronese's  "  Holy  Family"  in  Florence,  and 
not  go  away  deeply  impressed  with  the  conviction 
that  they  are  the  human  soul's  highest  conception 
of  divine  beauty. 


CHAPTER    XIV. 

VESUVIUS    AND    POMPEn, 

iHIS  deliglitful  day  we  have  ascended  Vesu- 
vius. Reacliing  Resina  our  carriage  was 
immediately  surrounded  by  a  crowd  of  for- 
lorn looking  Italians  all  anxious  to  be  em- 
ployed as  guides  up  tlie  volcano,  some  with  don- 
keys, others  with  horses,  each  one  declaring  his  ani- 
mal to  be  the  best  and  safest.  After  a  great  deal 
of  confusion  we  succeeded  in  selecting  our  horses 
and  commenced  the  ascent,  the  crowd  following  a 
long  distance  until  thej  were  driven  back.  The 
guides  whom  we  had  chosen  kept  whipping  the 
horses  and  urging  them  forward  with  a  peculiar 
call,  which  the  animals  appeared  to  understand. 
Gradually  rising  for  nearly  five  miles  our  path  lay 


" I    iiM  I  111  "I  11"  '  ii  iiiiiii 


lllllllll!!,i!lillil'lli!llll!ll 


ililiiiililllilliililllliiiliiiiiilliliilililKiilil 


VESUVIUS  AND  POMPEII.  ]^29 

througli  yinejards  until  we  came  to  a  large  open 
field  of  lava.  Our  horses  with  much  difficulty 
picked  their  way  over  this  dark  and  uneven  surface, 
until  we  reached  the  Hermitage,  which  has  been 
built  for  the  convenience  of  travelers,  and  at  which 
place  the  government  has  built  an  observatory. 

The  distance  to  the  cone  being  not  over  two 
miles  from  here,  they  can  accurately  foretell  when 
an  eruption  is  to  take  place  ;  no  one  is  then  allow- 
ed to  approach  the  mountain. 

Crossing  another  lava  region  we  reached  a  sandy 
plain  at  the  foot  of  the  cone  where  we  leave  our 
horses.  Holding  fast  to  a  leather  strap  which  was 
drawn  by  the  guides,  we  commenced  the  laborious 
task  of  ascendmg.  Several  times  I  began  to  doubt 
that  I  should  ever  reach  the  top.  The  more  I 
toiled  the  longer  seemed  the  way,  for  my  feet  would 
sink  into  the  scorise  and  slip  down  the  almost  per- 
pendicular side.  At  last  by  perseverance  we  gained 
the  summit  of  Vesuvius.  The  interior  of  the  cone 
was  quiet  and  presented  a  magnificent  spectacle. 
Stepping  down  upon  the  crater,  which  was  harden- 


130  VESUVIUS  AND  POMPEII. 

ed,  we  crossed  to  the  center.  Through  the  crevices 
of  the  crater  would  come  hot  blasts  of  sulphurous 
air,  for  the  moment  making  it  difficult  to  breathe  ; 
and  often  it  would  sound  hollow  under  our  feet  as 
though  we  were  standing  upon  a  thin  crust.  Here 
we  looked  down  several  hundred  feet  into  the  fiery 
mouth  of  the  volcano.  The  sides  all  around  are 
covered  with  incrustations  of  sulphur  of  the  most 
lovely  shades  of  yellow,  brown,  red,  and  green. 
While  gazing  I  began  to  feel  faint,  my  breath  be- 
came short,  and,  with  assistance,  I  hastened  back  to 
the  outer  edge,  where  I  soon  revived. 

Not  many  years  ago,  two  travelers  explor- 
ing Vesuvius,  ventured  too  near  the  center, 
when  one  of  them  fell  a  distance  of  several  feet. 
His  companion  could  hear  his  voice  calling  for  help, 
but  he  could  not  see  him.  Procuring  a  rope  he 
threw  it  over,  but  it  was  too  short,  as  the  crater  on 
which  the  unfortunate  man  was  standing  had 
crumbled  under  his  feet  and  he  had  fallen  again. 
His  voice  could  still  be  heard  growing  fainter  and 
fainter,  until   the  narrow  ledge  gave  way  and  he 


VESUVIUS  AND  POMPEII.  \^\ 

was  plunged  into  the  awful  gulf.  We  are  told  that 
suicides  often  occur  among  the  Neapolitans,  one  of 
the  frequent  methods  being  to  ascend  Vesuvius 
in  time  of  eruption  and  throw  themselves  into  the 
terrible  furnace.      But  I  am  digressing. 

The  sun  is  setting ;  the  west  is  suffused  with  crim- 
son and  amber  clouds.  The  city  of  Naples  is 
plainly  seen  scattered  along  the  shore  of  the  bay. 
The  island  of  Capri  lifts  its  rocky  head  out  of  the 
blue  sea,  and  down  upon  the  plain  we  perceive  our 
group  of  horses,  mere  specks  upon  the  sand,  await- 
ing our  return.  To  the  east,  as  far  as  the  eye  can 
reach  toward  the  Adriatic,  are  Italian  villages  dot- 
ting the  landscape.  The  descent  to  the  plain  is  a 
work  of  but  a  few  minutes,  though  at  every  step 
the  feet  are  buried  deep  in  the  ashes.  It  was  long 
after  midnight  when  we  drove  into  Naples,  and 
greatly  exhausted  we  welcomed  rest  and  sleep. 

Entering  the  silent  city  of  Pompeii,  what  a  lonely 
scene  presents  itself  as  we  walk  through  the  desert- 
ed streets.  All  is  quiet.  Now  and  then  a  lizard 
darts  across  our  path  and  hides  beneath  some  old 
stone  or  ruin. 


232  VESUVIUS  AND  POMPEII. 

As  we  wander  along  througli  this  silent  city,  the 
mind  runs  back  almost  eighteen  centuries  when 
these  streets  were  thronged  with  the  gay  and 
thoughtless.  Yonder  amphitheatre  was  crowded 
with  an  eager  multitude  watching  the  combat  of 
gladiators.  Here  in  the  Forum  the  statesmen  elo- 
quently addressed  his  fellow-citizens.  In  that  Hall 
near  by  the  sound  of  revelry  was  heard.  Around 
those  fountains,  and  in  that  temple,  walked  the 
proud  and  envious.  In  this  villa,  assembled  at  the 
festive  board,  were  a  goodly  company,  making 
merry  with  the  choicest  wines  and  viands.  Here 
upon  these  seats,  a  vast  concourse  of  people  ap- 
plauded as  the  curtain  fell,  and  the  actor  was  called 
to  the  front  of  the  stage.  In  that  prison  gloomily 
sat  the  chained  criminals.  At  the  gates  of  the  city 
were  posted  the  sentinels. 

What  means  this  cry  of  alarm  ?  Whence  the  wail 
that  sounds  through  the  streets  ?  The  heavens  are 
darkening,  the  moon  is  turned  to  blood,  the  air  is 
thick  with  falling  ashes,  the  music  and  the  dance  are 


VESU\i:US  AND.  POMPEII.  13 3 

husliod,  tlie  play  stops,  tlie  voice  of  the  speaker 
ceases,  the  strong  tremble,  mothers  call  in  vain  for 
their  children,  husbands  search  for  their  wives, 
friends  look  after  friends,  but  the  terrible  shower 
continues.  Higher  and  higher  rises  the  flood,  until 
all  sounds  are  hushed,  doors,  windows,  arches,  tem- 
ples, columns,  towers,  walls,  and  palaces  disappear. 
Where  now  is  the  mighty  city  Pompeii  ?  Buried  for 
ages  in  a  living  grave ! 

We  were  received  at  one  of  the  gates,  and  piloted 
through  the  city  by  a  government  guard.  We 
walked  up  one  street  and  down  another ;  across  open 
courts  paved  in  mosaic ;  into  many  of  the  houses 
where  the  walls  were  covered  with  frescoes  and  the 
halls  paved  with  polished  marbles.  We  are  led 
up  and  down  several  flights  of  stone  steps  and  climb 
over  broken  columns.  After  inspecting  the  public 
baths,  with  marble  tubs,  we  pass  out  of  the  Hercu- 
laneum  gate,  where  we  see  the  sentinel's  box,  in 
which  his  skeleton  was  found.  Gathering  a  few 
sprays  of  ivy  which  covered  the  box,  we  bid  fare- 


234  VESUVIUS  AND  POMPEII. 

well  to  the  deserted  city.  Returning  to  the  hotel, 
we  began  to  make  preparations  to  leave  Europe  for 
the  East,  as  to-morrow  we  go  on  board  of  the 
steamer  Quaker  City. 


CHAPTER    XV. 


THE    PILGRIMS. 


g 


^i^HERE  floats  the  excursion  steamer  in  the 
harbor.  We  cannot  mistake  her  with  her 
bright  red  wheels  and  "  U.  S.  M,"  "  Uncle 
Sam's"  monogram,  on  her  sides.  From 
her  mast  head  is  floating  the  stars  and  stripes.  A 
small  boat  conveyed  us  to  her,  and  as  we  stepped 
up  the  gang  plank  to  the  vesseFs  side,  I  endeavored 
to  realize  the  fact  thaj:  this  was  to  be  our  home  for 
months.  We  were  met  by  the  captain's  wife  who 
kindly  called  the  stewardess  to  show  us  to  our  state- 
room. No.  29,  which  we  found  neatly  arranged 
and  more  spacious  than  those  of  the  English  steam- 
ers. It  had  two  berths,  wash-stand,  and  a  long  seat 
with  a  cover,  which  you  could  raise  and  pack  away 
many  articles.  This  had  a  cushion  covered  with 
red   velvet   forming  a   sofa.     The  state-room  also 


136  THE  PILGRIMS. 

contained  a  mirror,  a  number  of  shelves,  and  the 
floor  was  nicely  carpeted.  From  our  room  a  small 
passage  led  to  the  ladies'  saloon  in  which  were 
several  crimson  velvet  sofas,  easy  chairs,  and  a 
piano.  There  are  two  of  these  saloons,  both  with 
the  same  arrangement,  and  both  having  state-rooms 
along  the  sides. 

A  flight  of  brightly  polished  steps  leads  us  into 
the  dining  saloon  with  six  long  tables.  At  the  win- 
dows were  pretty  damask  curtains  and  gilt  cornices. 

The  "  Pilgrims"  were  gradually  gathering  on 
board  from  their  wanderings.  As  most  of  them  had 
baen  making  extensive  purchases  in  Italy  and  Swit- 
zerland, they  came  bearing  quantities  of  packages ; 
some  with  a  stock  of  velvet  and  kid  gloves,  others 
with  rolls  of  silk  and  sets  of  cameo  and  mosaic  jew- 
ehy.  Many  had  new  gold  watches  from  Geneva. 
Here  come  two  passengers  with  a  boat  load  of  wine. 
One  elderly  gentleman  whom  they  called  the  Ma- 
jor was  showing  a  very  costly  coral  necklace  and 
set  of  jewelry.  A  gentleman  from  Illinois,  who 
went  by  the  ap^Dellation   of  Deacon,  was    spread- 


THE  PIL  GRIMS.  ^  3  7 

ing  out  some  copies  from  the  masters  which  he 
had  purchased  in  some  of  the  galleries.  Several  of 
the  ladies  were  busy  examining  the  quality  of  their 
purchases  and  comparing  prices.  The  captain  has 
just  arrived  from  Rome,  and  last  but  not  least,  came 
Mark  Twain,  one  of  the  ''Innocents  Abroad."  A 
few  were  preparing  letters  to  be  mailed  before  we 
leave  for  the  Orient.  One  gentleman  is  seated  at 
the  table  engaged  in  writing  poetry ;  he  is  called 
the  poet  of  the  party.  We  soon  began  to  feel  at 
home.  There  was  no  doubting  the  nationality  of 
the  company,  and  it  was  pleasant  to  hear  again  our 
native  tongue  spoken.  Floating  around  the  ship 
are  a  large  number  of  small  boats  with  articles  for 
sale  ;  one  is  filled  with  a  variety  of  straw  work,  an- 
other with  fruits,  one  had  pictures  for  sale,  and  in 
one  an  old  man  was  playing  w^ith  bagpipes  while 
on  the  seat  in  front  of  him  were  two  dancing  dolls 
which   he   kept   in  motion. 

Sailing  around  us  in  a  boat  were  two  beautiful 
Italian  girls  playing  on  guitars  and  singing.  On 
deck  are  some  Italians  singing  the  Garibaldi  song, 


138 


THE  PILGRIMS. 


wliicli  lias  now  become  very  familiar  to  us.  From 
here  we  expected  to  go  to  Palermo  ;  but  owing  to 
the  prevalence  of  cholera  there,  we  decided  to  sail 
directly  for  the  Grecian  Islands. 

It  is  a  glorious  day  as  we  sail  out  of  the  bay  of 
Naples.  Here  at  one  glance  is  seen  the  matchless 
panorama  of  the  city  and  its  surroundings.  As 
night  approaches  and  the  sun  sinks  in  the  west,  we 
have  the  full  effect  of  what  I  had  always  longed  to 
see,  an  Italian  sunset.  It  would  certainly  be  a  diffi- 
cult task  to  describe  the  magnificent  spectacle, 
but  remembering  the  many  glorious  sunsets  wit- 
nessed in  my  own  loved  country,  I  scarcely  am 
willing  to  believe  that  anj^  in  the  world  can  surpass 
them.  There  is  one  beauty  of  the  evening  sky,  how- 
ever, which  I  think  is  peculiar  to  Italy.  I  ob- 
served it  specially  at  Florence.  This  is  a  splendid 
translucent  green  tinge  which  harmonizes  better 
than  blue  with  the  golden  glory  of  the  stars. 

Sailing  by  Stromboli,  the  reflection  of  its  fire  up- 
on the  sky  was  visible  far  into  the  hours  of  night. 
It  was  not  far  from  midnight  when  we  sailed  through 


THE  PILGRIMS.  I39 

the  Straits  of  Messina  with  "  Scylla  on  one  hand 
and  Chary bdis  on  the  other."  Perched  upon  the 
shore  of  Sicily,  with  its  hundreds  of  glancing  lights, 
could  be  seen  in  the  moonlight  the  city  of  Messina. 
The  next  morning  we  glided  along  close  to  the 
rocky  shores  of  Italy.  On  the  right,  far  off  in  the 
dim  haze,  towered  mount  ^tna,  with  its  top  of  ev- 
erlasting snow,  while  at  its  base  are  perpetually 
blossoming  orange  groves  and  luxuriant  vineyards. 


CHAPTEH    XVI. 

ATHENS. 

OR  two  days   our  ship   was  sailing  on  the 
g,>^T  Ionian  sea.     Entering  the  Grecian  Archipel- 


ago near  Cerigo,  we  soon  passed  the  islands 
of  Siphanto,  Spezzia,  Serfo,  and  Hydra, 
The  atmosphere  is  very  clear  and  objects  are  dis- 
cernable  at  a  great  distance.  These  islands  have  a 
sterile  and  rocky  appearance.  Grecian  villages  are 
built  along  the  sides  of  the  hills,  and  around  the 
islands  were  sailing  numerous  fishing  boats,  with 
their  curious  rigged  sails.  Eounding  a  point  of 
land  we  came  to  anchor  in  the  harbor  of  Piraeus, 
the  port  of  Athens,  and  about  five  miles  from  the 
city,  where  the  King's  palace  .and  the  Parthenon 
could  be  plainly  seen  from  our  ship. 

On  shore  were  hundrads  of  Cretan  refugees  who 
had  been  brought  here  from  the  island  of  Crete, 
to   be   taken   care   of    by    the    Grecian    govern- 


ATHENS.  2J:1 

ment  and  the  charity  of  different  nations.  Wo- 
men and  children  were  slowly  moving  to  and  fro 
among  the  tents  in  which  they  lived,  carrying  food 
from  one  to  another,  presenting  a  sorrowful  spec- 
tacle of  suffering,  while  their  brave  husbands  and 
fathers  were  fighting  for  liberty  in  their  own  native 
island.  As  our  company  are  about  getting  ready 
to  go  on  shore  and  visit  Athens,  word  is  sent  out 
from  the  authorities  of  Piraeus  that  no  one  will  be 
allowed  to  land  from  our  vessel  until  after  we  have 
remained  in  quarantine  for  nearly  two  weeks.  Here 
was  something  of  a  disappointment,  for  bright  were 
Xhe  anticipations  of  seeing  Athens,  the  Parthenon, 
Mars'  Hill,  and  the  ruins  of  ancient  Greece.  There 
they  are  within  plain  sight  and  yet  we  cannot  visit 
them !  In  vain  did  our  captain  urge  that  Vv^e  were 
a  pleasure  party,  with  not  a  person  ill  on  board ; 
but  our  steamer  had  come  from  an  Italian  port  and 
the  fiat  had  gone  forth,  so  there  was  nothing  we 
could  do  but  submit. 

The  Greek  boatmen  are  not  at  all  bashful.     They 
gathered  around  with  various  articles  for  sale,  not 


142  ATHENS. 

anxious  evidently  to  quarantine  our  money.  The 
process  of  trading  between  these  boatmen  and  the 
passengers  was  quite  amusing.  They  would  reach 
out  whatever  article  was  for  sale  attached  to  the 
end  of  a  long  pole;  and  to  receive  payment  they 
would  hand  up  a  small  pail  of  water  into  which  the 
gold  or  silver  must  be  dropped,  which,  after  being 
well  shaken,  they  would  take  out  and  put  in  their 
pockets,  well  assured  that  if  there  was  any  plague 
about  the  coin  it  was  completely  washed  off.  In 
this  way  quite  an  extensive  traffic  was  carried  on. 
Undercover  of  night  some  of  oar  party  made  a  trip 
to  the  Parthenon ;  we  afterward  learned  that  they 
stopped  to  gather  grapes  on  the  way.  Early  in 
the  morning  another  party  disguised  in  the  Greek 
costume,  set  out  for  a  ramble  among  the  ruins  of 
Athens.  They  did  not  have  time  to  examine  the 
vineyards,  but  were  seen  from  our  decks  hastily 
returning  followed  by  Greek  soldiers.  The  chase 
was  exciting ;  a  boat  bearing  the  flag  of  Greece  is 
seen  to  leave  the  custom  house ;  at  the  same  mo- 
ment a  boat  left  our  steamer  bearinor  the  stars  and 


ATHENS.  143 

stripes.  Now  it  was  a  race  on  land  and  water ;  but 
the  Grecians  were  defeated,  and  tlie  venturesome 
Pilgrims  were  brought  back  in  safety. 

This  is  a  golden  day.  The  classic  land  of  Greece 
lies  bathed  in  the  sunlight.  Yonder  is  the  moun- 
tain on  which  a  powerful  king  sat  to  see  upon  this 
bay  his  conquered  fleet  destroyed  in  a  single  day. 
There  sleeps  in  peace  the  battle  plain. 

"  The  mountains  looked  on  Marathon, 
And  Marathon  looked  on  the  sea  ; 
And,  musing  there  an  hour  alone, 
I  dreamt  that  Greece  might  still  be  free." 

We  can  see  the  hill  on  which  Paul  stood  and 
preached  with  such  power  to  the  Athenians.  We 
can  see  the  ruins  of  temples  which  belonged  to  a 
land  of  learning,  art,  and  song. 

It  is  the  unanimous  decision  that  we  will  not  re- 
main here  to  serve  out  the  quarantine,  but  leave  at 
once  for  Constantinople.  The  decision  is  quickly 
acted  upon. 

Passing  more  of  the  Grecian  islands,  we  enter  the 
Dardanelles.   At  the  fortified  town  of  the  same  name, 


144  ATHENS. 

a  '-'•Pratique''  or  health  permit  for  the  passengers 
to  land  at  Constantinople  was  given  to  our  steamer 
without  delay.  The  shores  are  lined  with  forts  and 
Turkish  towns,  and  back  of  every  village  is  a  row 
of  windmills  in  motion,  grinding  grain.  In  fi'ont 
of  some  of  the  dwellings  veiled  women  were  seat- 
ed conversing  together. 

Entering  the  sea  of  Marmora,  the  next  morning 
at  daylight  I  was  on  deck  to  get  the  first  glimpse 
of  Constantinople  which  was  in  sight,  with  its  tow- 
ers and  minarets,  its  tall  cypress  trees  and  the 
dome  of  the  mosque  of  Saint  Sophia,  all  forming  a 
charming  picture.  Sweeping  around-  Seraglio  point 
we  came  to  anchor  in  the  mouth  of  the  Golden 
Horn. 


CHAPTEU   XYII 

CONSTANTIXOPLE. 

I  OR  the  first  time  I  am  in  an  Oriental  city.  We 
M?  are  among  veiled  women,  and  turbaned  men. 
Now  indeed  we  realize  that  we  are  among  a 
foreign  people. 
On  horseback,  with  Turks  leading  our  horses,  we 
are  slowly  moving  over  the  roughly  paved  streets 
of  Stamboul  to  the  bazaars.  The  air  is  filled  with 
the  unintelligible  jargon  of  the  people.  Porters 
are  running  in  every  direction  carrying  enormous 
loads  upon  their  shoulders. 

Venders  are  crying  their  wares,  dogs  are  barking 
and  beggars  are  following  us  calling  hahsMsh! 
bakshish  I  We  are  bewildered  with  the  noise  and 
confusion. 


146  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

Ill  Constantinople  the  bazaars  are  the  shop- 
ping resort  of  the  Oriental  metropolis.  They  cover 
an  area  of  many  acres,  and  the  streets  are  enclosed 
with  arched  roofs  lighted  from  above.  Along  these 
streets  are  the  little  Turkish  shops,  their  average  size 
being  about  eight  or  ten  feet  square.  These  are  open- 
ed and  closed  by  doors  with  hinges  at  the  top.  In 
front  is  a  platform  on  which  the  merchant  sits  smok- 
ing 2i  narghirie  OT  dirmkmg  coffee,  but  always  ready 
for  a  trade.  They  set  a  price  upon  their  merchandise, 
like  the  women  in  the  Halles  in  Paris,  double  and 
sometimes  treble  their  value,  often  with  no  expecta- 
tion of  receiving  the  amount  they  ask.  If  you  do  not 
choose  to  purchase  and  go  away  they  will  send,  or 
come  after  you  to  take  the  goods  at  almost  any  price. 
The  bazaars  are  divided  into  smaller  ones.  There 
are  those  with  shoes,  embroideries,  pipes,  fancy 
goods,  and  among  others  the  diamond  bazaar.  In 
this  one  the  stock  of  each  merchant  is  spread  out  in 
small  glass  cases  which  they  freely  exhibit.  In  one 
of  these  shops  we  were  shown  a  very  valuable  arti- 
cle of  jewelry  containing  about  two  hundred  dia- 


CONSTANTINOPLE.  jj^Q 

moncls  of  unusually  large  size,  being  there  for  re- 
pairs, and  we  were  told  that  it  belonged  to  one  of 
the  Sultan's  wives. 

The  bazaars  are  crowded  all  day  long,  this  being 
the  favorite  trading  place  of  the  people  of  the  city. 

We  stepped  into  a  cafe  and  had  coffee  served 
in  Turkish  style.  It  was  handed  on  a  salver  in 
tiny  cups  and  was  dark  colored  and  very  strong. 
No  milk  is  used,  but  it  is  made  remarkably  sweet. 
This  is  their  favorite  beverage. 

There  are  not  many  wheeled  vehicles  excepting 
a  few  curious  looking  cabs,  and  all  of  those  which 
we  saw  looked  as  if  they  were  made  fifty  years  ago, 
We  tried  one  of  them,  and  it  broke  down  three 
times  in  going  from  Stamboul  over  to  Pera,  so  we 
finally  discarded  it  for  the  rest  of  the  journey.  The 
araha  is  a  vehicle  for  ladies  of  rank  and  peculiar  to 
the  east. 

Most  of  the  transportation  of  merchandise  is  done 
by  porters,  called  liamals,  and  the  loads  which  they 
carry  are  truly  astonishing.  Large  poles  rest  upon 
the  shoulders  of  the  hamals  between  which  is  swung 


150  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

a  bale  of  cotton,  a  hogshead  of  sugar,  or  a  heavy 
piece  of  marbl^  ;  and  with  this  weight  they  -will  run 
along  from  one  part  of  the  city  to  the  other,  with 
comparative  ease. 

The  streets  are  narrow,  without  sidewalks,  poorly 
paved  and  abounding  with  sickly  looking  dogs.  In 
one  small  square  I  counted  thirty-three.  The  Turks 
in  Constantinople,  we  were  told,  have  a  superstitious 
reverence  for  these  animals ;  consequently,  they 
will  not  allow  them  to  be  injured. 

The  city  is  divided  into  three  parts,  called  Stam- 
boul,  Galata,  and  Pera.  These  are  connected  by  a 
bridge  across  the  Golden  Plorn  ;  Pera  and  Galata 
being  on  one  side,  and  Stamboul  on  the  other.  Pera 
is  the  Frank  quarter,  or  residence  of  all  foreigners, 
and  is  the  best  part  of  the  city.  On  the  bridge 
over  the  Golden  Horn  we  see  a  throng  constantly 
crossing  both  ways.  From  this  bridge  ferry-boats 
are  coming  and  going  up  the  Bosphorus  and  across 
to  Scutari.  The  water  is  alive  with  small  canoes, 
called  caiques.  These  boats  are  very  light  and  skim 
along  the  water  with  great  speed.     In  the  bottom 


TURKISH  ARABA. 


CONSTANTINOPLE.  151 

of  the  boat  is  placed  a  soft  cushion  for  seats,  and  the 
Turkish  people  are  sailing  about  in  them  in  all 
directions. 

The/e^,  a  red  felt  cap  with  a  luxuriant  black  silk 
tassel,  is  worn  very  generally  by  men  and  boys. 
These  latter  are  often  bright  eyed,  interesting  little 
fellows,  though  some  of  them  acquire  the  universal 
habit  of  smoking  at  a  very  early  age. 

The  women  look  exceedingly  strange  to  me. 
They  are  closely  veiled  with  the  exception  of  their 
eyes,  the  lower  part  of  the  face  being  completely 
concealed  with  the  '■'-yas  mah  "  or  veil.  They  wear 
a  loose  hanging  robe,  usually  of  a  bright  crimson, 
or  yellow  color,  with  immense  sleeves,  flowing  trow- 
sers  confined  at  the  ankles,  and  sandals  on  their  feet, 
sometimes  with  yellow  kid  boots,  and  sandals  over 
them.  The  dress  of  the  ladies  of  rank  is  exceedingly 
elaborate  with  embroideries  of  gold  and  silver,  and 
often  of  precious  stones,  on  the  richest  and  most  bril- 
liant fabrics.  In  the  Tiarem,  the  foi^htdden^  the  women 
and  children's  apartment,  the  trowsers  are  fastened 
just  below  the  knee,  and,  being  very  long,  fall  over 


2^52  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

in  ample  folds  to  the  carpet.  They  are  of  brilliant 
silks  and  elaborately  embroidered  down  the  outside. 
Here  let  me  say  that  the  word  harem  is  a  sacred 
word  to  the  Mohammedan  and  has  nothing  of  the 
meaning  attributed  to  it  by  foreigners,  solely  from 
the  fact  of  polygamy  which  is  condemned  in  Christ- 
ian countries.  We  must  not  forget,  however,  that  it 
is  sanctioned  by  the  morals  and  by  the  religion  of 
the  East ;  and  however  false,  is  looked  upon  by  the 
people  with  the  same  respect  with  which  we  regard 
our  monogamous  system. 

There  are  still  some  of  the  Circassian  women  to  be 
seen,  many  of  them  justifying  their  great  fame  for 
beauty. 

We  find  aristocracy  here  as  well  as  elsewhere. 
The  Kibars  come  riding  through  the  streets  gener- 
ally on  horseback  with  a  retinue  of  servants^  one  or 
two  running  ahead  to  tell  the  common  people  to 
get  out  of  the  way,  others  following  their  master 
carrying  his  overcoat,  umbrella,  and  packages. 
Such  are  the  street  scenes  which  are  presented  to 
us  in  Constantinople. 


CONSTANTINOPLE,  ^  5  5 

At  night  all  is  still  except  the  barking  of  the  dogs, 
and  the  cry  of  "  Yangun  var  "  fire  !  fire !  Fires  are 
very  frequent,  one  or  two  almost  every  night,  as  the 
buildings,  being  built  of.  "wood,  form  an  easy  prey 
to  the  flames. 


CHAPTER  XYIII. 

THE  SULTAN  AND  THE  MOSQUE. 

E  HAYE  seen  Abdul  Aziz,  the  monarcli  of 
Turkey.  There  is  nothing  striking  in  his 
Sp  appearance.  Heisof  medium  height,  very 
dark  complexion,  black  hair,  and  dull 
heavy  eyes.  He  wore  the  red  fez  and  a  neatly  fit- 
ting suit  of  black. 

This  man's  word  is  the  law  of  the  Turkish  em- 
pire, and  woe  be  to  him  who  incurs  his  displeasure. 
His  salutations  are  cold  and  calculated  to  intimidate 
those  around  him.  He  has  several  palaces  on  the 
Bosphorus  where  he  spends  most  of  his  time.  We 
were  shown  one  of  them,  very  elegantly  fitted  up, 
and  told  that  it  was  built  by  the  Viceroy  of  Egypt 
and  presented  to  the  Sultan.  After  some  difficulty 
\V3  obtained  a  permit  to  visit  the  Seraglio.  This 
palace  was  the  residence  of  the  former  Sultan,  but  is 


TURKISH  BO/S 


TEE  SULTAN  AND  THE  MOSQUE.  159 

not  mucli  used  by  tlie  present  one.  Entering  tlie 
Sublime  Porte  and  crossing  an  open  court  we  found 
ourselves  in  a  large  square  surrounded  with  build- 
ings. Going  from  one  to  the  other  the  "DaZ/Ze" 
points  out  the  uses  of  the  various  buildings.  In  one 
is  shown  the  throne  room,  in  another  the  private 
apartments  of  the  Sultan  where  his  wives  are  never 
allowed  to  enter.  A  large  building  is  set  apart  ex- 
pressly for  the  residence  of  his  wives  and  young 
children,  which  is  of  course  called  the  liarem ; 
another  for  his  slaves  and  servants.  There  is  an 
attempt  to  imitate  in  the  structure  and  decorations 
the  palaces  of  Western  Europe,  but  they  fail  in 
richness  and  in  the  taste  displayed  in  the  embellish- 
ing. 

The  Sultan  generally  attends  service  in  one  of 
the  mosques  on  Friday,  which  is  the  Mohammedan 
Sabbath. 

The  Mosque  of  St.  Sophia  is  the  most  noted  of 
all  the  mosques  in  the  city,  although  in  attractive- 
ness it  is  much  inferior  to  that  of  Suleiman 
the  Magnificent,  or  the  Mosque  of  Sultan  Achmed. 


160  TEE  SULTAN  AND  THE  MOSQUE. 

We  were  compelled  to  leave  our  shoes  at  the 
door  before  entering,  as  the  Mohammedans  con- 
sider it  sacrilegious  to  walk  into  their  places  of 
worship  with  boots  or  shoes  on  their  feet ;  there- 
fore no  one  is  allowed  to  go  in  without  conforming 
to  this  custom,  which  recalls  forcibly  the  injunction 
in  the  Jewish  ScrijDture  :  "  Take  thy  shoes  from  off 
thy  feet,  for  the  place  whereon  thou  standest  is  holy 
ground."  The  Imam  or  Mohammedan  priest  leads 
the  service,  while  scattered  around  upon  the  floor 
of  the  mosque,  which  is  covered  with  a  kind  of  reed 
matting,  are  many  of  the  devout  worshipers,  all 
with  their  faces  to  the  east — toward  Mecca.  Some 
are  bent  forward  with  their  foreheads  touching  the 
floor,  others  are  upon  their  knees  with  the  Koran 
before  them. 

The  service  is  silent,  and  impressive — not  a  sound 
save  the  low  chant  of  the  Imam  which  is  heard 
at  intervals.  At  morning,  noon  and  night,  they  are 
called  to  this  service  by  the  muezzin^  who  is  ap- 
pointed to  go  up  into  the  minaret  and  call  out  the 
hour  of  prayer.     In  a  shrill  and   mournful  voice 


rM'^ 


jMiibii,iiJ|i|i||^ 


THE  SULTAN  AND  THE  MOSQUE.  2g3 

that  can  be  heard  far  over  the  city,  he  sings  out 
'''Allah  cikhar''  '' Allah  aUar ''  &c.,  "God  is  great. 
There  is  no  God,  but  God,  and  Mahomet  is  his 
prophet.  Come  to  prayer.  Prayer  is  better 
than  work.  Prayer  is  better  than  sleep." 
Instantly  hundreds  leave  their  shops,  or  what- 
ever they  may  be  doing,  and  going  to  the 
marble  fountains  around  the  mosques,  bathe 
their  faces  and  hands  before  going  into  prayer.  I 
was  much  impressed  with  their  devotedness.  The 
Mohammedans  seem  to  be  a  poor  degraded  peo- 
ple, but  they  are  sincere  in  their  religion ;  and 
Christians  may  well  learn  the  lesson  of  sincerity 
from  them.  I  saw  many  who  could  not  leave  their 
place  of  business  at  the  hour  of  prayer  go  through 
with  their  devotions  in  their  shojDS,  in  sight  of  the 
people  who  were  going  along  the  street.  Persons 
would  try  to  attract  the  attention  of  the  devotee  by 
throwing  down  gold  pieces,  but  the  mussulman 
would  pay  no  attention  to  any  one  until  he  had 
finished  his  devotions.  I  do  not  think  that 
business  men  in  Christians  countries  get  down 
upon  their  knees  and  say  their  prayers  in  the  mid- 


;[g4  ^^^^  SULTAN  AND  THE  MOSQUE. 

die  of  tlie  day,  especially  when  customers  stand 
ready  to  buy  goods,  jingling  gold  and  silver  in 
their  hearing. 

This  afternoon  we  went  to  see  the  Whirling  Der- 
vishes, and  a  whirling  it  was  indeed  !  everything 
seemed  to  whirl  the  rest  of  the  day.  These  people 
are  a  curious  religious  sect  of  Mohammedans. 
There  were  no  seats  for  us  save  upon  the  matting  on 
the  floor.  A  venerable  looking  man  with  a  robe 
wrapped  around  him  came  walking  slowly  in  and 
took  his  position  on  a  rug  in  the  centre  of  the  mos- 
que. One  and  then  another  followed  until  between 
twenty  and  thirty  were  all  formed  in  a  circle  within  a 
railing  where  only  the  dervishes  are  admitted. 
There  they  assumed  a  kneeling  position  with  their 
heads  bent  forward.  At  a  signal  from  the  Patriarch 
they  all  arose  and  commenced  moving  with  a  slow 
march  around  the  circle  keeping  time  to  some  dole- 
ful music ;  on  their  heads  they  wore  high  felt  hats. 
Doffing  a  light  drab  cloak,  revealing  a  dress  of 
white,  they  commenced  a  rotary  motion.  The 
white   gowns  floated  out  until  each   Dervish   was 


WIUEZZIN  CALLING  TO  PRAYER. 


THE  SULTAN  AND  THE  MOSQUE.  ^67 

more  the  shape  of  a  pyramid  than  anything  else. 
Daring  this  motion  their  hands  are  placed  on  their 
breast,  then  on  their  heads,  and  when  full  speed 
is  attained,  they  were  stretched  out,  the  right  hand 
with  the  palm  turned  upward,  the  left  turned 
downward,  and  their  eyes  closed.  In  this  position 
they  continued  whirling  for  nearly  a  half  an  hour, 
when  throwing  their  cloaks  about  them  one  after 
another  they  slowly  left  the  room  and  the  strange 
service  was  ended. 


CHAPTEH    XIX. 

ON    THE    BLACK    SEA. 

EFORE  leaving  Constantinople  the  American 

^y  minister  and  his   wife    and   the   American 
"W^m  consul  came  on  board  our  steamer.       They 
were  much   pleased   to   meet  so   many   of 
their  own  country  people. 

Sailing  by  the  Sultan's  palaces  and  through  the 
beautiful  Bosphorus  across  the  Black  Sea  to  ex- 
plore the  battle-fields  of  the  Crimea,  Sebastopol 
with  all  its  ruins  lies  before  us.  We  all  anticipated 
being  delayed  by  the  authorities  at  Sebastopol  be- 
fore we  could  land,  as  we  had  been  informed  that 
very  likely  they  would  not  permit  us  to  go  ashore, 
at  least  that  our  passports  would  be  subjected  to  a 
long  and  careful  inspection.  How  different  was 
our  reception !  As  soon  as  it  was  known  that  an 
American  steamer  had  arrived,  word  was  sent  from 


ON  THE  BLACK  SEA.  169 

the  Admiral  of  the  Sebastopol  Navy  Yard  to  Cap- 
tain Duncan,  asking  if  he  could  be  of  any  service  to 
us ;  that  his  navy  yard  was  at  our  service  if  our 
steamer  required  any  repairs ;  and  instead  of  the 
passports  being  subjected  to  the  closest  scrutiny, 
many  of  us  were  not    asked  even  to  show  them. 

A  number  of  Russian  ladies  and  gentlemen  came 
on  board  during  our  stay.  They  were  sociable  and 
quite  gratified  to  go  over  the  excursion  ship. 

It  was  not  long  before  the  Quaker  City  people 
were  on  shore.  A  more  perfect  picture  of  desola- 
tion can  hardly  be  imagined.  Almost  every  buil- 
ding in  Sebastopol  bore  marks  of  the  terrible  strug- 
gle between  the  Allies  and  the  Russians.  Heaps 
of  cannon-balls  were  lying  around.  On  the  battle- 
field of  Inkerman  and  around  the  Malakoff  scarcely 
one  stone  is  left  upon  another.  Great  furrows  are 
still  to  be  seen  where  the  shot  and  shell  ploughed 
through  the  earth,  and  at  a  short  distance  from  Se- 
bastopol, acres  are  covered  with  the  tombs  of  the 
slain.  In  one  place  not  far  from  the  Redan,  we  saw 
a  trench  where  three  thousand  French  soldiers  sleep 


170  ON  THE  BLACK  SEA. 

their  last  sleep.  It  brought  yiviclly  to  our  minds 
the  scene  of  Sir  Colin  Campbell  and  the  "thin  red 
line''  of  his  Highlanders  at  Balaklava,  the  famous 
charge  of  the  light  brigade,  the  French  troops  like 
spectators  in  an  amphitheatre,  looking  quietly  on  as 
the  exclamation  burst  from  the  lips  of  their  com- 
mander, "  C^est  un  spectacle  mai's  ce  oi'est  pas  la 
guerre  !  "  Pieces  of  cannon  and  shell  lie  strewn 
over  the  ground,  and  all  of  the  immense  fortifications 
remain  in  the  same  shattered  condition  as  when  the 
war  closed.  I  believe  it  was  one  of  the  terms  of 
settlement  of  the  Crimean  war  that  the  Russians 
should  not  build  up  these  fortifications  again.  At 
the  head  of  the  harbor  of  Sebastopol  is  the  village 
of  Inkerman,  at  the  foot  of  a  high  hill  which 
is  crowned  by  massive  ruins  of  walls  and  towers 
showing  the  former  importance  of  the  town. 
Numerous  artificial  caves  are  made  in  the  flanks  of 
the  hill,  being  hewn  from  the  solid  rock.  "  The 
rock  cut  church  of  Inkerman"  is  one  of  the  wonders 
of  the  place.  It  is  said  that  the  caves  were  made 
by  the  persecuted  Arians  and  occupied  subsequent- 


ON  THE  BLACK  SEA.  173 

ly  by  Christian  cenobites.  Remains  of  chapels,  al- 
tars, and  paintings  are  found  in  them. 

In  returning  from  the  Malakoff  to  the  vessel,  we 
came  to  a  little  church  out  of  which  came  a  Greek 
funeral  procession^  bearing  the  corpse  of  a  beauti- 
ful young  woman.  The  priest  walked  ahead  car- 
rying a  lighted  lamp  and  chanting.  The  body  was 
carried  by  ten  or  twelve  young  ladies,  each  one  as- 
sisting in  her  turn  as  pall-bearer,  as  though  it  was 
an  honor  to  be  permitted  to  take  part  in  conveying 
the  body  to  its  burial  place. 

Following  promiscuously  were  the  friends  and 
relatives  exhibiting  deep  grief  Flowers  were 
strewn  upon  the  cofi&n  and  the  face  of  the  corpse 
was  exposed,  so  that  all  might  see  the  features  as 
she  was  borne  along  towards  the  little  open  grave 
in  a  lonely  valley.  After  the  simple  burial  service 
of  the  Greek  church  was  performed,  she  was  low- 
ered to  her  final  resting  place. 

How  solemn  was  the  scene  !  Little  did  the 
mourners  know  there  were  sympathizers  with  them 
though  from  a  far  distant  land. 

At  Sebastopol  the  programme  of  our  route  was 


174  ON  THE  BLACK  SEA. 

changed  and  we  steamed  up  into  the  northwest  cor- 
ner of  the  Black  Sea  to  the  Russian  city  of  Odessa. 
'  We  are  informed  by  the  Odessians  that  the  Qua- 
ker City  is  the  first  American  steamer  that  was  ever 
in  their  harbor.  This  city  has  an  industrious  appear- 
ance; Large  quantities  of  grain  are  shipped  from 
Odessa  to  various  ports  of  Europe.  The  streets 
are  wide  and  paved  with  white  soft  stone  which 
produces  a  fine  dust-  kept  in  continual  circulation, 
as  there  is  a  strong  breeze  blowing  from  off  the  sea. 
The  trees,  houses,  and  people  are  covered  with  the 
dust.  We  were  informed  that  during  the  wet  sea- 
son the  mud  is  equally  objectionable. 

Here  we  see  in  the  market  place,  for  the  first 
time  in  our  journey,  the  inhabitants  buying  and 
drinking  oil,  coming  with  pails  and  bottles  to  pur- 
chase it.  What  kind  of  oil  it  was  we  were  not  anx- 
ious to  inquire ;  it  was  enough  to  know  the  people 
drank  it. 

On  the  corners  of  the  streets  sitting  by  small  ta- 
bles are  Jewish  money  changers,  beckoning  all 
to  come  and  change  their  money. 


i w,ilJ).:iP«  ,,,„. ™,j,„„., %,,, :aife^-n,.Mi|iiili|!|||||i 


ON  THE  BLACK  SEA. 


177 


We  rode  around  the  elevated  city  in  a  quaint 
looking  carriage  called  a  droskj.  It  is  a  low  built 
comical  looking  yekicle  witli  four  small  wheels. 
The  horse  is  fastened  to  one  side  of  a  long  pole  by 
which  the  drosky  is  drawn.  The  horse's  gear  is 
very  odd.  Its  peculiarity  is  a  lofty  bow  that  arches 
the  horse's  neck,  and  when  he  is  going  very  rapidly, 
it  gives  one  the  idea  that  he  is  trying  to  jump 
through  a  hoop. 


RUSSIAN  DEOSKT. 


At  the  Arsenal  and  parade  .ground  was  a  regi- 
ment of  Russian  soldiers  drilling.  Their  uniform  is 
neat  and  showy.     They  all  wear  white  caps. 

On  the  promenade  there  is  a  fine  statue  of  the 
Due  de  Richelieu — according  to  tourists  and  guides 
the  grand  nephew  of  the  famous  cardinal.^  Chron- 


178  ON  THE  BLACK  SEA. 

ologically,  a  grand  nephew  is  just  equivalent  to  a 
grandson ;  and  as  there  have  been  six  generations 
since  the  time  of  the  great  cardinal,  it  is  useless  to 
call  the  original  of  this  statue  who  died  in  1822,  the 
grand  nephew  of  Richelieu.  .  The  relationship 
about  which  tourists  dispute  is  this:  The  Odessa 
Due  de  Richelieu  was  the  grandson  of  the  grand 
nephew  of  the  cardinal.  The  great  cardinal's 
sister  had  a  son  who  died  leaving  his  son  the  Mar- 
shal de  Richelieu.  This  Marshal  de  Richelieu,  who 
died  in  1788,  was  the  grandfather  of  the  statue's 
original,  who  so  distinguished  himself  in  the  Turk- 
ish war  that  the  Empress  Catharine  of  Russia  made 
him  a  major  general  in  her  service.  After  the  war 
he  went  back  to  France,  but  returned  and  was  ap- 
pointed governor  of  Odessa. 

Returning  to  our  steamer  we  find  quite  a  commo- 
tion amono;  the  Pilmms.  It  has  been  decided  to 
visit  the  Emperor  and  Empress  of  all  the  Russias, 
who  are  staying  at  their  summer  palace  at  Yalta, 
on  the  shore  of  the  Black  Sea,  about  two  hundred 
and  sixty  miles  from  here.  The  preliminaries  have 
been  arranged  by  telegraph,  and  to-morrow  we  leave 
to  call  upon  their  Imperial  Highnesses. 


CHAPTER  XX. 


VISITING    THE    EMPEROR    OF    RUSSIA. 


N  the  way  from  Odessa  to  Yalta,  several 
meetings  were  held  by  the  gentlemen  in 
the  saloon  for' the  purpose  of  preparing  an 
address  to  be  presented  to  the  Czar ;  at  the 
same  time  the  ladies  were  gathered  in  groups  con- 
versing about  the  coming  event. 

This  morning  we  dropped  anchor  at  Yalta.  The 
Governor-general  conveyed  to  us  a  message  from 
the  Emperor  "  that  we  were  welcome,  and  he  would 
be  pleased  to  receive  us  the  next  day  at  twelve 
o'clock."  Word  also  came  that  carriages  and  horses 
would  be  in  readiness  to  convey  the  party  to  the 
palace,  which  is  about  two  miles  from  the  landing 
place. 

All  is  astir  on  board  preparing  for  the  great  oc- 


180  VISITING  THE  EMPEROR  OF  RUSSIA. 

casion.  The  porters  are  overtaxed  in  getting  out 
the  stored  away  trunks  for  the  passengers,  as  the 
most  reclierclie  wardrobes  must  be  selected.  The 
ladies'  purchases  through  Europe  are  now  brought 
in  requisition.  Paris  dresses,  laces,  coiffures  and 
jewelry  are  to  be  worn  for  the  first  time.  At  ten 
and  a  half  o'clock  we  saw  the  spacious  row  boats  be- 
longing to  the  Emperor  nearing  our  ship.  How 
gaily  they  were  decked  out  with  scarlet  and  black 
figured  cushions  and  scarlet  cloth  and  fringe  hang- 
ing over  the  sides  almost  touching  the  water ;  each 
boat  was  rowed  by  twelve  men  dressed  in  white 
caps  and  uniform.  They  approach  the  vessel's  side 
with  extreme  caution,  owing  to  a  heavy  sea  which 
was  rolling  in.  As  the  boat  would  rise  upon  a 
wave  and  sink  away,  one  person  after  another  step- 
ped in  until  it  was  filled,  when  another  boat  would 
take  its  place.  In  this  way  all  were  safely  landed. 
We  step  from  the  boat  on  crimson  carpeted  steps 
leading  up  from  the  water  into  a  picturesque  cano- 
pied landing.     The  ladies  occupying  the  carriages. 


VISITING  THE  EMPEROR  OF  RUSSIA.  181 

and  the  gentlemen  riding  on  horseback  we  formed 
quite  a  procession,  numbering  over  sixty  persons. 

The  gates  were  thrown  open  to  admit  us  to  the 
palace  grounds.  A  company  of  mounted  Cossacks 
were  drawn  up  on  each  side  of  the  gates,  and  we 
passed  through  in  military  order,  escorted  by  the 
Grand  Duke  Michael,  brother  of  the  Emperor,  who 
had  met  us  on  the  way. 

At  precisely  twelve  o'clock  we  formed  in  front  of 
the  palace.  The  smoothly  cut  lawn  around  us  was 
like  a  velvet  carpet,  with  a  profusion  of  surround- 
ing flowers.  Immediately  the  Emperor  and  Em- 
press appeared,  accompanied  by  their  daughter 
Marie,  and  one  of  their  sons,  the  Grand  Duke  Serge, 
followed  by  a  retinue  of  distinguished  persons. 

The  American  Consul  who  had  come  with  us 
from  Odessa  stepped  forward  and  read  a  short  ad- 
dress to  his  Imperial  Highness  Alexander  11. ,  Czar 
of  Russia,  which  had  been  prepared  and  signed  by 
the  passengers.  The  Emperor  replied  to  it  by  say- 
ing "  that  he  thanked  us  for  the  address  and  was 

very  much  pleased  to  meet  us,  especially  as  such 
10 


1B2  VISITING  THE  EMPEROR  OF  RUSSIA. 

friendly  relations  exist  between  Russia  and  the  Uni- 
ted States."  The  Empress  further  replied  by  saying 
"  that  Americans  were  favorites  in  Russia,  and  she 
hoped  her  people  were  the  same  with  Americans." 

The  Emperor  is  tall  and  well-proportioned,  with 
a  mild  yet  firm  expression.  The  impression  of  the 
beholder  is  that  he  is  one  born  to  command. 
He  wore  a  white  cap  and  a  white  linen  suit,  the 
coat  confined  with  a  belt  around  the  waist  and 
ornamented  with  gilt  buttons  and  elaborate  epau- 
lets. 

The  Empress  is  of  medium  height,  fair  complexion, 
and  although  delicate  looking  she  appears  young 
for  one  of  her  age.  A  bright,  welcoming  smile  lit 
up  her  face.  Her  dress  was  white  foulard  silk, 
dotted  with  blue  and  richly  trimmed  with  blue 
satin.  She  wore  a  small  sleeveless  jacket  of  the 
same  material  and  trimming,  a  broad  blue  sash,  and 
around  her  neck  was  a  tie  made  of  swiss  muslin  and 
Valenciennes  lace.  On  her  head  was  a  straw  hat 
trimmed  with  blue  velvet  and  black  lace.  Hei 
hands  were  covered  with  flesh-colored  kid-gloves, 


VISITING  THE  EMPEROR  OF  RUSSIA.  ^33 

and  she  carried  a  light  drab  parasol  lined  with  blue 
silk. 

The  Grand  Duchess  was  attired  in  a  dress  of 
similar  material  to  that  of  her  mother,  only  this 
was  more  tastefully  arranged  with  blue  silk  and 
fringe  ;  a  belt  of  the  same  material  as  the  dress, 
fastened  by  a  large  rosette,  and  a  straw  hat  trimmed 
with  blue  silk. 

The  Grand  Duke  Serge  is  quite  young,  and  a 
.well-appearing  youth.  He  was  dressed  in  a  scarlet 
blouse  and  white  pants. 

Individual  introductions  followed.  Several  of 
the  ladies,  including  myself,  had  an  opportunity  of 
conversing  with  the  Empress.  All  of  the  Imperial 
family  speak  English  very  well. 

We  were  escorted  through  the  buildings  by  the 
Emperor  and  Empress,  entering  a  door  which  was 
on  either  side  a  bower  of  flowers.  Almost  all  of 
the  apartments  were  thrown  open.  The  floors 
were  inlaid  and  polished,  and  the  furniture  was 
curious  and  costly.  'The  Emperor  took  special 
pains  to  show  us  the  chapel  where  he  and  his  family 


184  VISITING  THE  EMPEROR  OF  RUSSIA. 

worship.  It  was  very  handsome,  and  connected 
with  the  main  building. 

Every  effort  was  made  by  the  Imperial  family  to 
welcome  us,  and  really  the  Pilgrims  seemed  to  act 
as  much  at  home  as  though  they  were  accustomed 
to  calling  on  Emperors  every  day. 

I  could  not  realize  that  we  were  being  enter- 
tained by  a  ruler  of  more  than  seventy -five  millions 
of  people,  and  whose  word  was  the  supreme  law 
fof  the  most  powerful  nation  on  the  globe. 


CHAPTER    XXI. 

OUR    STAY    AT    YALTA. 

^^^HE  name  of  the  Emperor's  palace  is  Livadia. 

"^^•^    It  is  very  beautifully  situated  on  the  side  of 
a  mountain  gently  sloping  toward  the  Black 

V^   Sea. 

The  grounds  have  been  expensively  laid  out,  and 
near  the  palace  are  gardens  filled  with  choice  flow- 
ers. 

The  Imperial  family  generally  remain  here  dur- 
ing the  months  of  July  and  August.  Near  by 
stands  the  palace  of  Worrondow,  belonging  to  the 
crown  Prince,  who  is  very  wealthy;  we  were 
kindly  escorted  through  his  residence,  which  is 
nearly  as  elegant  as  Livadia.  An  invitation  has 
been  tendered  us  from  the  Emperor's  brother,  say- 
ing that  he  would  be  pleased  to  see  us  at  Orianda, 
his   palace,   which  is  between   one  and  two  miles 


186  .     OUR  STAY  AT  YALTA. 

from  where  we  are.  Driving  througli  the  grounds, 
which  are  delightfully  adorned  with  large  groves  of 
trees,  gardens,  vineyards,  fountains  and  cascades, 
we  arrive  at  the  Palace  of  the  Grand  Duke  Michael, 
governor-general  of  Circassia,  who  also  resides  at 
Yalta  with   his  family  during  the  summer  months. 

The  balcony  is  filled  with  handsomely  dressed 
ladies,  watching  our  approach.  The  Grand  Duke 
and  Duchess  at  once  appeared.  He  is  even  taller 
than  the  Emperor,  and  stately  in  his  carriage.  He 
wore  a  uniform  of  azure  cloth  with  silver  decora- 
tions. The  Grand  Duchess  is  young,  has  a  dark 
complexion  and  is  quite  handsome,  lively,  and  socia- 
ble. Her  dress  consisted  of  white  alapaca  en  train, 
trimmed  profusely  with  black  barb  lace,  a  drab  hat, 
with  velvet  and  feathers  of  the  same  color.  The 
Emperor  and  family  arrived  here  about  the  same 
time  with  our  company.  The  party  now  dispersed 
in  various  directions  through  the  parks  and  gar- 
dens accompanied  by  the  different  nobles  attached 
to  the  Imperial  family. 

The  Grand  Duchess  showed  us  her  favorite  little 


OUR  STAY  AT  YALTA.  187 

rloc:,  which  she  informed  me  had  been  so  much  ad- 
mired  by  Qiieeu  Victoria  that  she  had  sent  one  like 
it  to  Her  Majesty. 

The  children  of  the  Grand  Duke  were  playing 
under  the  trees,  with  soldiers  guarding  them.     We 
were  told  they  are  never  allowed,  when  out  playing 
to  be  out  of  sight  of  the  guard. 

At  three  o'clock  we  were  invited  into  the  palace 
to  "breakfast."*  In  a  splendid  saloon  opening  on 
a  veranda  our  party  were  soon  seated  around  many 
polished  round  tables  on  which  the  refreshments 
were  served.  The  different  tables  were  honored 
from  time  to  time  by  the  presence  of  royalty. 
While  his  Imperial  highness  was  seated  at  our  table, 
the  conversation  turned  upon  the  Ottoman  Empire. 

Mr.  G •  made  the  remark,  "that  he  thought,  ere 

many  years  would  pass  away,  Russia  would  become 
the  possessor  of  the  Bosphorus  and  Dardanelles." 
A  smile  played  across  the  countenance  of  His  High- 
ness as  he  nodded  assent  and  intimated  that  such  a 
thing  was  not  at  all  improbable. 

The  Grand  Duchess  now  appeared  at  the  breakfast 


188  ^^^  STAY  AT  YALT^ 

richly  attired  in  purple  silk  with  sati\l  trimmiuga 
sometimes  walking  along  the  great  banqueting 
room,  and  sometimes  upon  the  veranda. 

The  reception  being  over,  the  Imperial  party 
took  their  positions  at  one  end  of  the  long  saloon 
to  bid  each  one  of  the  visitors  adieu  as  we  with- 
drew. Scarcely  had  we  returned  to  our  floating 
home  before  bouquets  of  flowers  were  sent  on  board 
from  the  Emperor's  gardens,  to  be  presented  to 
each  lady. 

The  next  day  our  steamer  was  put  in  complete 
order.  The  velvet  sofas  were  brought  on  deck,  the 
saloon  was  dressed  with  flowers,  and  all  had  a  cheer- 
ful look. 

We  were  visited  by  a  large  number  of  the  Russian 
nobility,  among  them  Admiral  Glassnap,  Admiral  of 
the  Black  Sea  navy  ;  Governor  General  Kotzebue, 
and  his  two  daughters  ;  the  venerable  general  Todle- 
ben  of  Crimean  fame  ;  Baron  Sternberg,  Count  Fos- 
tetus.  Baron  Wrangel,  and  other  distinguished  Rus- 
sian gentlemen  and  ladies.  A  collation  was  served 
in  the  saloon,  at  which  speeches  were  made  and 
congratulations  freely  interchanged. 


OUR  STAY  AT  YALTA.  189 

lu  the  evening,  the  Quaker  City  was  illuminated 
and  displayed  fireworks  in  honor  of  the  occasion. 

The  next  day  the  Admiral  invited  us  on  board  of 
the  Emperor's  yacht  Tiger  which  was  anchored  off 
the  palace. 

We  were  heartily  received  on  board  the  yacht. 
Ever  thing  was  scrupulously  neat  and  there  were 
many  rooms  elegantly  furnished.  In  the  Czar's 
private  room  were  the  pictures  of  the  Imperial 
family,  including  a  correct  likeness  of  himself  The 
company  were  here  entertained  with  refreshments. 
The  ladies  were  offered  cigarettes,  as  many  of  the 
Russian  ladies  smoke.  It  is  their  custom  at  enter- 
tainments to  offer  cigarettes  to  the  ladies. 

The  third  day  we  anticipated  a  call  from  the  Em- 
peror, but  a  heavy  sea  made  it  difficult  for  the  small 
boats  to  go  to  and  fro  between  the  steamer  and 
land  and  His  Im^Dcrial  Highness  did  not  care  to  trust 
himself  in  them  ;  so  we  had  to  forego  the  honor. 

At  eight  o'clock  in  the  evening  the  anchor  was 
lifted,  and  we  sailed  by  the  Czar's  palace,  which 
was  brilliantly  lighted,  and  amid  the  booming  ofean- 


190  OUR  STAY  AT  YALTA. 

non,  the  shooting  of  rockets,  and  blue  lights  il- 
luminating our  ship,  we  bid  farewell  to  a  scene 
which  I  shall  treasure  as  one  of  the  brightest  remem- 
brances of  my  life. 


CHAPTEE    XXII. 

SMYRNA. 

'GAIN  the  prow  of  our  steamer  is  pointed 
across  the  Black  sea  toward  the  Bosphorus. 
This  morning  I  was  awakened  early,  as 
we  were  .approaching  the  city  of  Constan- 
tine.  Hastening  on  deck  I  found  but  few  of  the 
passengers  up.  I  had  the  opportunity  of  seeing 
the  sun  rise  upon  the  city  of  Constantinople.  Ap- 
proaching the  city  from  the  Bosphorug  a  much  finer 
view  is  afforded  than  from  the  sea  of  Marmora. 

The  sun  was  just  rising  and  as  its  golden  light 
touched  crescent,  minaret,  dome,  tower,  and  cypress 
as  with  some  enchanter's  wand,  the  city  was  trans- 
formed into  a  vast  sea  of  flashing  lights,  and  the 
scene  was  one  of  matchless  and  indescribable  beauty 
which  well  repaid  me  for  my  early  rising. 


1^2  SMYRNA. 

Here  we  are  to  remain  for  several  days,  until  we 
are  thoroughly  acquainted  with  the  Mohammedan 

capital. 

More  bargains  are  made  with  the  Osmmlis  for 
slippers,  chibouks,  narghilles,  turbans,  Turkish  tow- 
els, beads,  and  a  liberal  supply  of  ottar  of  roses, 
which  of  course  is  warranted  to  be  genuine.  Some 
of  the  Pilgrims  now  begin  to  dress  in  Oriental 
style.  We  sail  every  day  in  the  caiques  upon  the 
Bosphorus  and  the  Golden  Horn. 

Once  more  on  the  sea  of  Marmora ;  through  the 
Dardanelles  where  swam 

"  Leancler  who  was  nightly  wont 
To  cross  thy  stream  broad  Hellespont." 

We  sail  alon^  the  coast  of  Asia  Minor  in  sight  of  the 
place  where  stood  the  city  of  ancient  Troy,  where 
Trojan  and  Hector  battled  for  the  beautiful  Helen. 
We  pass  the  islands  of  Tenedos  and  Mytilene,  the  lat- 
ter of  which  was  one  of  the  most  powerful  of  all  the 
Grecian  islands,  and  said  to  be  the  birthplace  of  Sap 
pho.     Steaming  up  the  gulf  of  Smyrna,  it  was  ten 


COUNTRY  MOSQUE   IN  ASIA  MINOR 


SMYRNA.  195 

o'clock  in  the  forenoon  when  we  came  in  sight  of  the 
citj.  With  the  aid  of  our  glasses  we  could  see  on 
the  shore  of  the  gulf  long  caravans  of  camels  going 
into  the  city. 

In  the  harbor  lay  the  United  States  gunboat 
Swatara,  and  as  we  sailed  close  along  side  they 
saluted  our  flag  and  ran  up  the  stars  and  stripes. 
At  the  same  time  her  crew  sprang  up  the  shrouds 
and  gave  us  three  cheers.  I  realized  at  that 
moment  how  dear  to  me  were  the  stars  and  stripes, 
emblem  of  my  own  loved  country.  It  was  like 
meeting  an  old  friend  in  that  distant  country. 

Smyrna  is  built  around  the  base  of  a  mountain 
which  is  crowned  by  a  ruined  castle.  It  is  the 
largest  sea  port  in  Asia  Minor  ;  the  streets  are  nar- 
row and  crowded  with  people,  donkeys,  and  camels. 
It  has  its  bazaars  and  mosques.  We  are  soon  on 
shore  and  wandering  through  the  city,  dodging  here 
and  there  to  escape  the  caravans  which  are  moving 
through  almost  every  street,  loaded  with  figs,  rai- 
sins, and  various  products  of  Asia. 

In  one  of  the  ^g  packing  establishments  we  saw 


196 


SMYRNA. 


over  three  hundred  bushels  of  figs,  ready  for  pack- 
ing. In  one  of  the  rooms  were  nearly  a  hundred 
people,  men,  women,  and  children,  packing  the  figs. 
The  women,  even  at  their  work,  were  closely  veiled, 
excepting  their  eyes.  The  proprietor  pointed  out 
a  Turkish  man  and  woman   at  work  side  by  side. 


MERCHANT    OF   SMYRNA. 


They  were  husband  and  wife,  and  he  informed  us 
that  although  they  had  been  working  for  him 
twelve  years,   he  had   never   seen  the  face  of  the 


SMYRNA.  197 

woman.     Her  husband  would  never  allow  the  veil 
to  be  removed  in  public.  • 

The  bazaars  are  not  as  large  as  the  ones  in  Con- 
stantinople, but  they  are  well  stocked  with  oriental 
goods.  Heaps  of  Persian  rugs  are  seen,  some  of 
them  handsome  and  valuable.  There  is  a  large 
trade  in  them  here,  -and  they  are  brought  from  the 
interior  of  the  country  by  the  caravans.  On  every 
hand  are  Turks,  sitting  cross-legged  sipping, 
coffee,  and  smoking  the  narghille.  This  smoking  .^ 
and  coffee  drinking  seems  to  be  the  most  important 
business  in  the  eastern  cities.  It  is  an  old  saying 
that  ''  the  first  four  wishes  of  a  Turk  are,  resfc, 
silence,  pipes,  and  coffee." 

Here  it  is  supposed  Homer  was  born,  and  here 
also  was  the  residence  of  the  Apostle  John.  The 
site  of  the  church  of  Smyrna,  one  of  the  seven 
churches  of  Asia,  is  pointed  out.  Alas  \  Ephesus, 
Smyrna,  Pergamos,  Thyatira,  Sardis,  Philadelphia, 
and  Laodicea — thy  greatness  is  with  "the  dream 
of  things  that  were." 

Some  of  the  country  mosques  in  Asia  Minor  are 


298  SMYRNA. 

exceedingly  beautiful  and  tliougli  small  in  size  are 
elegant  in  design  and  finisli.  The  mosque  is  every- 
where substantially  the  same  in  plan,  being  square 
and  surmounted  by  a  dome.  The  first  mosque, 
erected  at  Medina  by  the  prophet  himself,  has 
served  as  a  model  for  all  that  have  been  built  since, 
thousrh  the  minaret  seems  to  have  been  an  after- 

o 

thought  of  the  time  of  the  Caliph  El  Walid. 

We  constantly  meet  the  Pilgrims  scattered  over 
the  city  seated  around  shops,  drinking  coffee  and 
lemonade,  eating  figs  and  dates,  and  enjoying 
themselves  generally. 

To-morrow  we  leave  for  Ephesus. 


CHAPTER    XXIII. 

EPHESUS   AND    ITS  RUINS. 

RAILROAD  has  been  built  by  an  English 
Mb  company,  running  from  Smyrna  sixty 
miles  back  into  the  country,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  bringing  into  the  city  the  various 
products  of  Asia,  which  are  brought  to  the  different 
stations  by  caravans.  This  road  runs  within  three 
miles  of  Ephesus.  Arrangements  have  been  made 
with  the  president  of  the  company  to  convey  our 
party  by  special  train  to  Ayasalouk,  the  nearest 
station  to  Ephesus.  At  five  o'clock  in  the  morning 
we  leave  the  steamer  and  are  soon  in  the  cars. 
Large  droves  of  camels,  horses,  and  goats  were 
grazing  in  the  fields  along  the  way,  and  almost 
every  native  was  armed.  It  was  not  unusual  to  see 
a  man  with  two  pistols,  two  knives  in  his  belt,  and 

a  gun  resting  across  his  shoulder. 
11 


200  EPEESUS  AND  ITS  RUINS. 

We  were  in  cliarge  of  a  tall  jet  black  Nubian, 
who  was  heavily  armed  and  dressed  in  a  showy 
eastern  costume.  He  walked  up  and  down,  and 
gave  his  orders  like  one  who  was  invested  with 
high  authority,  and  seemed  to  look  upon  us  as 
much  inferior  to  himself 

From  Ayasalouk  we  rode  on  donkeys  to  the 
ruins.  Crossing  a  level  tract  and  over  a  high  hill 
we  descended  upon  the  plain  of  Ephesus.  Nothing 
is  to  be  seen  of  that  once  splendid  and  powerful 
city  but  a  vast  desolate  plain  of  ruins.  The  Thea- 
tre of  Ephesus,  where  Paul  preached,  and  where 
Demetrius  the  silver-smith  addressed  the  multitude, 
when  they  all  with  one  accord  cried  out  ''great  is 
Diana  of  the  Ephesians,"  is  first  inspected.  It  was 
built  of  pure  white  marble.  The  seats  are  almost 
perfect,  although  covered  with  earth.  It  is  in  the 
form  of  an  amphitheatre,  and  would  seat  many 
thousand  people.  A  space  two  or  three  feet  wide 
of  the  earth  has  recently  been  removed,  revealing 
from  the  foundation  to  the  top,  a  distance  of  nearly 
two  hundred  feet,  the  white  marble  seats  in  perfect 
preservation. 


EPHESUS  AND  ITS  RUINS.  201 

In  the  ruins  of  one  of  the  Temples  we  saw  beau- 
tifully carved  pillars,  thirty  to  forty  feet  in  length, 
ten  to  fifteen  feet  in  diameter,  lying  broken,  their 
fragments  scattered  upon  the  ground,  as  though 
some  earthquake  had  hurled  them  from  their  foun- 
dations. ' 

The  best  preserved  structure  is  a  beautiful  mos- 
que, built  in  the  fourteenth  century,  over  the  grave 
of  St.  John,  and  on  the  site  of  the  church  of  Ephe- 
sus.  No  one  could  tell  us  where  the  Temple  of 
Diana  had  stood — not  a  stone  to  mark  the  spot. 

We  gathered  in  the  amphitheatre  where  it  is  sup- 
posed Paul  fought  with  the  wild  beasts,  and  our 
artist  Mr.  J ,  photographed  the  scene. 

The  Aqueduct,  which  was  nine  miles  in  length, 
could  be  traced  for  a  long  distance  by  the  lofty  and 
massive  marble  columns  on  which  it  rested.  History 
tells  us  that  in  the  days  when  these  ancient  cities 
were  built,  oftentimes  as  much  money  was  expend- 
ed upon  the  construction  of  the  aqueducts  as  it  re- 
quired to  build  the  cities  themselves. 

The  cave  of  the  Seven  Sleepers,  the    tomb  of 


202  EPHESUS  AND  ITS  RUINS. 

Mary  Magdalen,  the  hill  of  Pion  were  all  explored. 
High  upon  a  rocky  hill  stood  the  "  Prison  of  Paul," 
built  of  mammoth  blocks  of  gray  ston^e.  Climbing 
up  its  rugged  sides  a  few  of  us  seated  ourselves  and 
listened  to  the  reading  of  Paul's  imprisonment. 
There  spread  out  upon  the  vast  plain  below  was 
all  that  remained  of  that  once  mighty  city !  Its 
ships  which  brought  the  treasures  of  the  world  to 
its  doors  are  all  gone  and  its  harbor  is  sealed  up. 
The  voices  of  the  Ephesians  are  hushed  forever  and 
the  only  sign  of  life  that  we  can  see  amid  its  ruins., 
is  a  lonely  shepherd  crossing  the  valley  and  calling 
his  sheep  to  follow  him.  We  remained  for  a  long 
time  deeply  interested  in  the  picture  before  us. 
As  we  were  preparing  to  descend  from  the  moun- 
tain  prison,    Colonel   K handed  to  each  one 

a  cup  of  wine,  accompanied  with  the  remark  that 
it  was  not  likely  any  of  us  would  ever  meet  there 
again. 


CHAPTER    XXI  Y. 

FROM    SMYRNA   TO   SYRIA. 

1 0-DAY  is  Sunday,  and  we  listen  to  a  good 
sermon  from  the  Rev.  Mr.  B — ,  one  of  the 
excursionists.  Every  sabbath  services  are 
held  on  our  steamer. 
Again  in  the  Grecian  Archipelago,  the  islands  of 
Scio,  Samos,  Patmos,  and  Rhodes  come  in  sight. 
On  the  highest  point  of  the  island  of  Patmos,  we 
can  see  the  convent  built  over  the  cave  where  St. 
John  wrote  the  Revelations.  These  islands  were 
once  rich  and  powerful,  but  since  the  Turks  have 
ruled  them  their  prosperity  has  vanished. 

Running  along  by  the  Isle  of  Cyprus,  we  ob- 
served many  large  towns  on  the  hills. 

Busy  preparations  are  being  made  for  Syrian 
travel  as  we  are  fast  nearing  Syria.  The  company 
will   divide   into  small   parties,    some   wishing   to 


2Q4  FROM  SMYRNA  TO  SYRIA. 

take  one  course  througli  tlie  Holj  Land,  and  some 
another.  A  few  will  leave  the  ship  at  Beyrout  for 
Damascus,  and  journey  southward  from  there.  A 
part  of  the  company  will  land  at  Mount  Carmel,  and 
cross  to  the  sea  of  Galilee  from  that  point.  Others 
will  enter  Palestine  at  Jafia. 

As  the  weather  is  very  warm,  dresses,  veils,  and 
hats  must  be  arranged.  White  prevails  as  it  affords 
the  best  protection  against  the  sun's  heat. 

On  the  morning  of  September  the  tenth,  we 
awoke  at  Beyrout  and  saw  the  sun  rising  over  the 
mountains  of  Lebanon.  The  dawn  promised  a 
bright  and  perfect  day.  We  are  to  remain  here 
several  days  to  complete  the  preparations  for  the 
inland  journey.  The  American  consul  and  the  mis- 
sionaries are  very  attentive  and  very  courteous  in 
furnishing  needed  information  and  introducing  drag- 
omen. Our  party  numbering  eleven  here "  secured 
a  trusty  Arab  guide.  He  was  a  native  of  Syria, 
speaking  different  languages,  and  was  thoroughly 
conversant  with  the  country.  An  agreement 
was  drawn  up  and  signed  at  the  Consulate,  spec- 


FROM  SMYRNA  TO  SYRIA.  205 

ifying  liow  many  servants,  horses,  donkeys,  and 
tents  were  to  be  furnished,  and  the  price  to  be  paid 
per  day. 

While  we  remain  here,  the  missionaries  come  out 
to  call  upon  us,  among  them  is  Dr.  Thompson,  au- 
thor of  the  "Land  and  the  Book,"  who  has  resided 
in  the  East  almost  fifty  years. 

The  American  seminary  is  located  at  Beyrout. 
The  scholars  were  brought  to  see  our  ship,  which 
they  enjoyed  very  much.  K-efreshments  were  fur- 
nished them.  They  were  well  behaved  and  intel- 
ligent. The  missionary  having  charge  of  the  schol- 
ars informed  us  that  many  of  the  native  children 
make  excellent  students  and  learn  rapidly. 

The  young  ladies  could  speak  English  very  accu- 
rately. A  New  Testament,  translated  into  the 
Arabic  language  and  prettily  bound,  was  presented 
to  each  passenger.  All  the  work  of  printing  and 
binding  being  executed  by  native  Syrians. 

According  to  the  statements  made,  the  mission- 
aries are  doing  much  good,  not  only  at  Beyrout,  but 
at  the  branches  on  Lebanon,  Damascus,  and  Sidon. 


206  FROM  SMYRNA  TO  SYRIA. 

This  evening  while  seated  upon  deck,  as  if  by 
magic,  tlie  city  and  surrounding  country  are  illu- 
minated with  bonfires,  along  the  shore  of  the  Med- 
iterranean as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach.  From  every 
hill-top  of  Lebanon  fires  spring  up,  until  night  is 
turned  into  day.  This  is  called  the  "  Feast  of  the 
Cross,'*  and  to  night  it  is  celebrated  by  the  Maron- 
ites.  When  the  ''  True  Cross"  was  found  in  Jerusa- 
lem by  the  Princess  Helena,  mother  of  Constantine, 
the  nevfs  was  telegraphed  all  the. way  to  Constanti- 
nople by  lighting  fires  on  the  hills.  This  celebration 
has  been  continued  once  a  year,  from  A.  D.  330,  or 
thereabout,  until  the  present  time. 

This  morning  we  visit  an  Arab  school ;  the  mas- 
ter sits  in  the  center  of  the  room,  with  the  scholars 
around  him.  They  sit  upon  the  floor  and  each 
scholar  has  a  large  card  before  him  with  Arabic 
characters  on  it.  Every  one  was  talking,  creating 
such  confusion  and  noise  that  I  was  glad  to  retreat. 
It  vras  the  loudest  studying  I  have  ever  heard. 
Their  severe  punishment  is  the   bastinado,  inflicted 


FROM  SMYRNA  TO  SYRIA.  207 

on  the  soles  of  the  feet.     This  is  a  common  Mussul- 
man practice. 

The  climate  here  in  Beyrout  is  healthy,  and  fruits 
are  plentiful.     The   night  before   sailing  for  Jaffa 


ARAB    SCHOOL   BOY. 


was  one  long  to  be  remembered.  The  moon  came 
over  Lebanon  and  cast  its  silver  light  upon  the 
smooth  waters  of  the  Mediterranean.  I  lingered 
long  thinking  how  far  I  was  from  my  own  native 
land  and  the  loved  ones  at  home. 


CHAPTER    XXY. 

LEBANON. 

OMER  is  ready  with  the   horses  at  half  past 
six  o'clock  in  the  morning.     After  some  de- 
'^^^)  lay  in  selecting  such  horses  as  each  wishes 
^^^   to  ride,  we  gallop  along  the  streets  of  Bey- 
rout,  out  through  groves  of  pines  and   hedges  of 
prickly  pear. 

Here  we  meet  a  common  incident  of  Syrian  travel. 
A  Turk  goes  leisurely  by  mounted  upon  a  donkey, 
his  feet  swinging  and  almost  touching  the  ground, 
smoking  meanwhile  a  long  pipe.  Some  distance 
in  the  rear  followed  his  wife  on  foot,  with  two  chil- 
dren in  her  arms  and  a  large  bundle  fastened  upon 
her  back.  The  women  do  most  of  the  laborious 
work  while  the  men  are  idle. 

A  short  distance  further  we  saw    "  two   women 


LEBANON.  209 

grinding  at  a  mill."  The  mill  was  composed  of 
two  large  stones,  one  rolling  npon  the  other ;  one 
of  the  women  was  tending  the  mill,  while  her  com- 
panion was  driving  the  ox.  It  is  probable  that  not 
much  improvement  has  been  made  in  these  mills 
since  the  days  of  Solomon. 

Large  orchards  of  oranges,  pomegranates,  figs, 
and  dates  appear  on  every  side.  Crossing  the  dry 
bed  of  the  Wady  Kadislia^  we  enter  a  vast  plain  of 
olive  trees. 

At  the  foot  of  Lebanon  is  a  manufactory,  where 
a  number  of  Ara,bs  are  employed  making  silk. 

The  ride  up  the  mountains  is  difficult,  since  the  path 
is  narrow  and  rocky.  The  same  day  we  reached 
the  Convent  of  Lebanon.  This  was  a  Jewish  church 
before  the  time  of  Christ,  but  for  several  hundred 
years  it  has  been  occupied  by  Greek  monks. 

The  Convents  in  the  East  afford  comfortable  ac- 
commodations for  travelers.  They  are  necessary 
unless  the  traveler  has  his  own  tents  and  conven- 
iences for  camping  out  when  night  overtakes  him. 
The  old  monks  cordially  received  us  and  soon   pro- 


210  LEBANON. 

vided  siicli  refresliments  as  tliej  could.      We  were 
in  need  of  rest  and,  felt  thankful  for  tlieir  attention. 
We  are  informed  tliat  an  Egyptian  family  are  re- 
siding on  tlie  mountain  for  tlie  summer,  near  to  the 
convent,  and  that  they  are  coming  to  see  us.  Present- 
ly the  door  opened,  and  a  beautiful  Arab  lady  ac- 
companied by  her  husband  and  three  little  girls  en- 
tered.     She  was  a  brunette,   gracefully    attired   in 
white  with  a  crimson  silk   girdle  tied  at   her  side ; 
her  hair  fell  loosely  about  her  neck  and  shoulders, 
and  was  adorned  with  pink  and  white  roses.      Her 
jewels  were  composed  of  diamonds  and  gold.     They 
had  come  to  invite  us   to  their  home,  and  we    ac- 
cepted the  cordial  invitation.      Soon  after  entering 
their  house,  we  were  asked  to  sit  down,  when  I  found 
myself  instinctively  looking  for  a  chair  or  sofa,   for- 
getting that  I  was   in  the    East.      Our   party,    now 
numbering  five,  were  soon  seated   upon  the   floor 
with  the  family,  and  servants  brought  in  quick  suc- 
cession    figs,    grapes,    jellies,    and    pomegranates 
sprinkled  with  rose  water ;  then  followed  coffee,  and 
afterwards  for  the  gentlemen,  narghilles,  which  com- 


IH^ 


IIP 


f 


'WML 


m 


.  ^>^ 


^^^iiiiiiiiiiifi 


LEBANON.  213 

pleted   the    Oriental   picture.     Through   an  inter- 
preter, meanwhile,  the  conversation  went  forward. 

Our  hosts  were  deeply  interested  in  hearing  from 
our  country.  They  wished  to  know  how  the  peo- 
ple lived  and  how  the  houses  looked  ;  what  kind 
of  fruits  and  trees  grew  in  America,  and  whether 
we  had  schools  and  cities ;  all  which  information 
we  readily  gave  them. 

The  repast  being  ended,  two  servants  came  bear- 
ing dishes  of  water  and  napkins.  One  poured  the 
water  upon  our  hands  while  the  other  held  the  basin 
below. 

The  lady,  our  hostess,  desired  me  to  go  to  her 
apartments.  They  were  furnished  with  divans, 
and  seating  ourselves  upon  one  of  them  she  inform- 
ed me  that  her  native  place  was  Egypt,  but  owing 
to  delicate  health,  she  came  to  the  mountains  of 
Lebanon  with  her  family  to  remain  during  the  heat- 
ed season.  Her  little  daughters  were  bright  and 
intelligent.  At  their  mother's  request  they  sang 
very  prettily  the  hymn  commencing  "  I  love  Jesus," 
which  they  had  learned  of  the  missionaries.     This 


214  LEBANON. 

performance  greatly  pleased  tlie   motlier  as  well  as 
myself. 

She  asked  me  my  name,  and  in  return  said  her's 
was  Mariam,  and  taking  a  heavy  gold  bracelet  of 
Oriental  style  from  her  arm  she  placed  it  upon  mine, 
saying,  "  This  will  make  us  sisters."  At  parting 
she  lifted  her  hand  to  her  forehead  and  then  plac- 
ins:  it  on  her  heart  bade  me  an  affectionate  fare- 
well.  We  then  returned  to  the  convent  and  mount- 
ed our  horses.  Descending  the  mountain,  for  along 
time  we  could  look  back  and  see  the  monks  watch- 
ing us  and  waving  adieu,  also  Mariam's  white  dress 
fluttering  in  the  breeze.  We  returned  to  Beyrout 
by  the  Damascus  road  which  has  been  built  by 
the  French.  On  this  road  a  diligence  runs  daily 
between  the  two  cities.  Damascus,  so  frequently 
mentioned  in  the  Bible,  is  one  of  the  oldest  -cities 
in  the  world,  and  is  still  one  of  the  richest  of  the 
East.  It  is  the  rallying  point  of  all  the  northern 
Asia  pilgrims  to  Mecca  and  the  center  of  Syrian 
commerce.  The  population  is  said  to  comprise  130,- 
000  Mohammedans,  15,000  Christians,  and  about 
5000  Jews. 


LEBANON.  215 

Beyrout,  or  Beirout,  is  quite  a  flourishing  seaport 
containing,  witli  the  suburbs,  about  30,000  people. 
The  modern  city  was  built  by  Djezzar  Pasha.  It  is 
situated  on  a  plain  behind  which  rise  the  moun- 
tains of  Lebanon.  The  houses  are  substantially 
built  of  stone,  and  the  flat  roofs  surrounded  by  par- 
apets form  a  very  important  part.  Here,  after  the 
heat  of  the  day,  the  people  resort  for  the  cool 
air,  conversation,  or  the  pipe.  Sleeping  on  the 
house-tops  is  common  in  the  summer  all  over  the 
East,  the  sleepers  being  protected  from  the  dews 
by  awnings. 


CHAPTER    XXVI. 

JAFFA. 

)EOM  Bejrout  our  course  lies  south  along 
.^^  the  coast  of  Sidon,  now  called  Saida,  and 
the  once  splendid  city  of  Tyre,  (so  graphi- 
cally described  in  the  twenty -seventh  chap- 
ter of  Ezekiel,)  stopping  at  Haifa  at  the  foot  of 
Mount  Carmel.  On  the  summit  of  the  Mount 
stands  the  convent  of  Elijah,  built  upon  the  place 
where  Elijah  stood  when  he  prayed  for  rain,  and  the 
cloud  "  no  larger  than  a  man's  hand  "  rose  out  of 
the  Mediterranean.  Across  the  bay  we  could  see 
the  Turkish  city  of  Acre  which  was  once  the  me- 
tropolis of  the  Latin  Christians.  Here  Napoleon 
was  defeated  in  the  year  1799,  and  with  his  defeat 
he  resigned  the  hope  of  conquering  Syria. 
Sailing  around  Cape  Carmel  the  same  afternoon,  the 
ruins  of  ancient  Caesarea  came  in  sight.  This  city 
was  built  by  Herod  the  Great.  It  is  the  place  where 


JAFFA.  217 

Paul  was  imprisoned  and  brought  before  Agrippa 
and  Festus  to  speak  in  liis  own  defence.  His 
words  made  such  an  impression  upon  Agrippa, 
that  he  said  to  Paul:  "  almost  thou  persuadest  me 
to  be  a  Christian."  This  is  the  city  where  so  many 
of  the  Jewish  captives  were  brought  from  Jerusa- 
lem, and  thrown  into  the  amphitheatre  to  be  dc: 
stroyed  by  the  wild  beasts.  The  place  is  solitary,  and 
desolate.  The  fragments  of  its  marble  pillars, 
towers,  and  walls  lie  strewn  along  the  shore,  half- 
buried  in  the  sand,  or  washed  by  the  continual 
waves  of  the  sea. 

The  sun  is  slowly  sinking  in  the  west,  and  remem- 
brances of  my  Sabbath  school  days  hover  around 
me  as  I  look  upon  the  shores  of  Palestine.  I 
am  about  to  realize  what  I  had  never  expected — 
the  sight  of  the  places  where  Christ  and  the  disci- 
ples walked  and  conversed  together,  and  where  the 
prophets  and  the  patriarchs  lived.  I  am  reluctantly 
compelled  to  go  below  to  finish  packing  for  the 
journey,  as  I  shall  require  thick  and  thin  clothing. 

Most  of  the  ladies  are   busy  getting   ready.     The 
12 


218  JAFFA. 

saddles  are  brought  out,  for  each  lady  has  provided 
her  own,  there  being  no  comfortable  lady's  saddle 
to  be  purchased  or  hired  in  Syria. 

At  daylight  we  are  at  anchor  about  two  miles 
off  the  harbor  of  Jaffa,  with  a  long  procession  of 
Arab  boats  coming  to  take  passengers  and  baggage 
on  shore.  While  tradition  tells  us  that  the  harbor 
of  Jaffa,  is  the  most  ancient  in  the  world,  I  must  say 
that  I  think  it  about  the  poorest.  Josephus  de- 
scribes it  as  follows :  "  Now  Joppa  is  not  naturally  a 
haven,  for  it  ends  in  a  rough  shore  where  all  the 
rest  of  it  is  straight;  but  the  two  ends  bend  towards 
each  other,  where  there  are  deep  precipices  and 
great  stones  that  jut  out  into  the  sea,  and  where  the 
chains  with  which  Andromeda  was  bound  have  left 
their  footsteps  which  attest  to  the  antiquity  of  that 
fable ;  but  the  north  wind  opposes  and  beats  upon  the 
shore  and  dashes  mighty  waves  against  the  rocks 
which  receive  them  and  render  the  haven  danger- 
ous.'' 

Our  captain  informs  us  that  it  is  not  safe  for  his 
steamer  to  lie  nearer  than  about  two  miles  from  the 


JAFFA.  219 

shore ;  and  steam  is  constantly  kept  up  in  readiness  to 
run  out  to  sea  at  any  moment  should  a  storm  rise. 

The  usual  course  of  pilgrims  visiting  the  Holy 
Land  is  to  come  from  Egypt  and  land  at  Jaffa ; 
but  whenever  there  is  a  storm  they  cannot  go  ashore 
there,  but  are  obliged  to  disembark  at  Mount  Car- 
mel,  or  Beyrout.  As  we  neared  the  shore  in  the 
small  boat  a  white  line  of  surf  extended  along  the 
whole  front  of  the  city,  but  by  skillful  management 
our  boat  was  guided  over  the  rocks  on  a  wave  and 
we  landed  free  from  harm,  although  well  sprinkled 
by  the  spray. 

A  crowd  of  Arabs  are  jostling  and  crowding  to 
be  employed  as  servants  or  guides,  each  one  point- 
ing to  himself  and  crying  "•  bono  "  (good),  others 
already  asking  for  haksMsli. 

There  is  not  much  to  delay  us  in  Jaffa.  We  see 
the  house  of  "  Simon  the  Tanner."  It  is  supposed 
that  Noah  built  his  ark  here.  This  was  also  the 
harbor  where  "  Hiram,  King  of  Tyre"  landed  the 
cedars  of  Lebanon  for  the  temple,  afterward  con- 
veying them  on  camels  to  Jerusalem. 


220  JAFFA. 

The  "Upper  Chamber"  is  here  shown  where 
Peter  called  the  good  Tabitha  to  life. 

Jaffa  is  built  upon  a  hill  surrounded  by  a  wall. 
The  dwellings  are  constructed  of  stone  and  are 
square  in  form  with  flat  roofs.  The  streets  are  nar- 
now  and  not  very  clean.  The  women  are  strangely 
dressed.  A  dark  colored  cloak  is  thrown  over  their 
heads  falling  to  their  feet.  A  piece  of  black  cloth 
hangs  from  beneath  their  eyes  tapering  to  a  point 
below  their  chin,  or  sometimes  falling  to  the  knees. 
This  forms  a  kind  of  mask  and  is  ornamented 
with  gold  coins.  Some  of  the  women  who  do  not 
wear  them  have  theu"  faces  tatooed,  and  wear  gold 
rings  fastened  through  the  upper  or  under  lip. 
They  have  JcJwl  about  their  eyes,  and  stain  their 
finger  nails  with  henna,  all  of  which  they  consider 
an  addition  to  their  charms. 

The  only  ingress  or  egress  to  the  city  from  the 
land  side,  is  through  a  fortified  gate.  Outside  of 
the  wall  is  a  large  open  space  filled  with  natives 
trading.  Caravans  are  getting  ready  for  Jerusa- 
lem, or  the  desert,  and  camels  are  kneeling  to  re- 
ceive their  burdens. 


WOMAN   OF  JAFFA. 


JAFFA.  221 

Our  first  call  was  upon  the  Jaffa  colony  which 
we  found  in  a  poor  condition.  A  few  uncompleted 
houses  were  clustered  together  in  which  the  colon- 
ists lived.  They  were  heartily  sick  of  the  enter- 
prise and  wished  themselves  back  to  America.  It 
was  no  place  for  New  England  people  to  settle. 

The  soil  is  not  very  productive,  being  sandy  and 
the  climate  warm.  How  one  hundred  and  thirty 
Americans  could  have  been  induced  to  leave  their 
homes  and  go  to  that  place  to  live,  believing  they 
were  going  to  an  earthly  paradise,  is  certainly  a 
mystery. 


CHAPTEE    XXVII. 

STARTING    ON    THE    PILGRIMAGE. 

UR  Dragoman  informs  ns  that  he  is  ready 
for  starting.  Nijem,  for  that  was  his  name, 
is  one  of  the  most  intelligent  of  Syrian  drag- 
omen, and  conversant  with  various  lan- 
guages. It  has  been  his  business  for  many  years  to 
conduct  pilgrims  through  the  country.  He  has 
therefore  become  familiar  with  the  history  and  loca- 
tion of  every  place  of  interest. 

He  is  dressed  in  the  full  Arab  costume,  with  mil- 
itary belt,  sword  hanging  at  his  side  and  gun  strap- 
ped across  his  shoulder,  presenting  quite  a  war-like 
appearance. 

There  have  been  provided  for  our  company  of 
eleven  persons,  four  tents,  fourteen   servants  or  as- 


^^^w 


NIJEM,   OUR  DRAGOMAN. 


STARTING  ON  THE  PILGRIMAGE.  227 

sistant  dragomen,  and  twenty-six  horses  and  don- 
keys loaded  with  the  necessary  equipage  for  the 
journey.  This  is  the  form  of  our  agreement  with 
the  Dragoman. 

Consulate  General  of  the  United  States  of  Amer- 
ica. Agreement  between  ....  of  the  first 
,  part  and  ....  dragoman  of  the  other  part 
said  .  .  .  .  dragoman  for  the  consideration  here- 
inafter mentioned,  doth  hereby  agree  : 

First :     To  serve  said     ....     as  dragoman 

for  a  period  of weeks,  beginning 

.  .  .  .  and  ending  ....  and  for  as 
many  additional  days  or  weeks  as  may  be  desired 
by  the  parties  of  the  first  part. 

Second  :  To  conduct  them  from  Jaffa  through 
the  Holy  Land.  Yisiting  successively  Ramleh,  Je- 
rusalem, Hebron,  Bethlehem,  Mar  Saba,  Kedron, 
Dead  Sea,  River  Jordan,  Jericho,  Bethany,  Bethel, 
Shiloh,  Jacob's  well,  Nablous,  Samaria,  and  return 
to  Jaffa,  stopping  at  night  at  convenient  and  com- 
fortable places. 


228  STARTING  ON  THE  PILGRIMAGE. 

Tliird  :  To  furnisli  tents,  bedding,  food,  riding 
and  baggage  animals,  saddles,  and  the  necessary  ser- 
vices subject  to  the  approval  of  the  parties  of  the 
first  part.  To  pay  all  haksliisli  to  guides,  sheiks,  es- 
corts, servants,  and  in  general,  to  do  every  thing 
which  is  in  my  power  to  minister  to  the  comfort  and 
satisfaction  of  the  parties  of  the  first  part,  during  the 
continuance  of  this  agreement. 

Fourth :  In  consideration  whereof,  said  parties 
of  the  first  part  hereby  agree  to  pay  to  the  said 

.  .  .  .  dragoman  ....  sterling  per 
day  for  the  period  of  ...  .  weeks,  and  at  the 
same  rate  for  such  additional  days  as  may  be  here- 
after agreed  upon. 

Fifth :  It  is  understood  by  both  parties,  that  in 
case  of  any  failure  on  the  part  of  said  dragoman  to 
furnish  every  thing  required  by  the  foregoing 
agreement,  these  may  be  supplied  by  said  parties 
of  the  first  part  at  the  expense  of  said  dragoman 
of  the  other  part,  and  that  any  disagreement  arising 
out  of  a  breach  of  this  contract  shall  be  submitted 


STARTING  ON  THE  PILGRIMAGE.  229 

for  final  settlement  to   tlie  nearest   Consul   of  tlie 

United  States. 

S.  M.  G.  ") 

B.  H.  C.  VFor  the  Company. 
G.  H. 


J^ 


:^.  ^  .^Y> 


Dragoman. 


H.  E.  T. 

Acting  United  States  Consul  General 

.  The  ladies  are  privileged  to  make  the  first  selec- 
tion of  horses.  All  being  ready  our  caravan  starts 
from  Jaffa  on  our  way  to  Jerusalem,  traveling 
through  a  forest  of  ^g^  orange,  pomegranate,  and 
palm  trees. 

The  road  is  lined  with  hedges  of  the  cactus  plant, 
full  of  the  red  fruit,  and  here  and  there  we  pass  a 
sycamore.  The  dark  foliage  of  the  pomegranate 
contrasts  beautifully  with  its  deep  crimson  fruit. 
The  orange  groves  are  loaded  with  delicious  fruit, 
and  the  air  is  filled  with  the  perfume  of  their  bios- 


230  STARTING  ON  THE  PILGRIMAGE. 

soms.  In  about  half  an  hour  we  came  to  a  Sara- 
cenic fountain  where  a  number  of  camels  were 
drinking. 

Eiding  out  upon  the  plains  of  Sharon,  the  purple 
hills  of  Judea  and  Benjamin  rise  before  us.  The  de- 
clining sun  warns  us  that  night  is  approaching.  In 
the  distance  stands  the  dark  Saracenic  tower  of 
Ramleh,  and  hastening  on,  at  twilight  we  are  riding 
through  the  streets  of  Ramleh,  the  birth-place  of 
Joseph  of  Arimathea  and  Nicodemus,  and  where 
Christ  rested  for  a  short  time  on  his  return  from 
Egypt.  On  the  east  side  just  out  of  the  city,  we 
found  our  camp  pitched  and  every  thing  made 
ready  for  our  arrival,  as  the  muleteers  and  baggage 
had  prieceeded  us.  The  Arab  cook  was  preparing  our 
meal  over  a  fire  in  front  of  the  camp.  In  one  of  the 
tents  a  table  is  placed,  on  which  an  excellent  sup-  . 
per  is  spread,  which  is  much  relished  after  our  fa- 
tiguing ride.  The  ladies'  tent  was  surmounted 
with  a  dome,  giving  it  a  lofty  appearance,  while 
flowers  and  leaves  cut  out  from  red,  yellow, 
and  green  colored  cloths  were  sewed  on  the  inside. 


STARTING  OX  THE  PILGRIMAGE.  231 

producing  a  finished  and  tasty  effect.  It  is  carpet- 
ed with  Persian  rugs.  Small  iron  bedsteads  stand 
around  in  a  circle,  looking  neat  and  comfortable. 
This  is  our  first  night  of  camp  life  in  Syria,  and  we 
are  surprised  to  see  how  complete  the  arrangements 
are  made  for  the  comfort  of  the  Pilgrims.  I  retired 
to  rest  to  dream  of  Jerusalem  and  Bethlehem  which 
I  am  soon  to  see. 


^j: 


CHAPTEH    XXYIII. 

GOIXa    UP    TO    JERUSALEM. 

T  daylight  in  the  morning  we  are  awakened 
I  by  mournful  wailing  sounds  around  our 
^{(^  tents.  Hastening  outside  we  find  that  Ni- 
j em  has  pitched  the  camp  near  to  a  Turkish 
burying  place,  and  there  are  several  women  wan- 
dering among  the  graves.  They  are  hired  mourn- 
ers who  come  every  morning  at  daylight  to  wail. 
They  are  employed  for  this  duty  by  the  friends  of 
the  departed.  Some  of  these  mourners  command  a 
higher  price  than  others.  The  amount  paid  them 
is  regulated  by  their  ability  to  wail  and  mourn. 
They  wear  tear  bottles  fastened  under  their  eyes  in 
such  a  manner  as  to  catch  the  falling  tears.  They 
will  weep  fast  or  slow  as  the  occasion  may  require, 
or  the  price  justify.  All  this  seemed  a  very  foolish 
and  barbarous  custom  ;  but  when   we   reflect  that 


GOING  UP  TO  JERUSALEM.  233 

the  practice  of  hiring  mutes  for  funerals  is  still  con- 
tinued in  London  and  in  some  other  Christian  com- 
munities, we  ought  to  have  charity  for  these  ignorant 
Mohammedans.  Dickens  and  some  other  English 
writers  have  so  satirized  the  custom  in  England  that 
it  is  beginning  to  decline. 

It  is  a  clear  and  balmy  morning  and  we  mount  our 
horses  and  ride  over  the  plain  of  Arimathea.  On 
the  left  is  ancient  Lydda,  where  Eneas  was  healed 
by  Peter,  and  where  St.  George  the  patron  saint  of 
England  was  born.  We  soon  pass  an  Arab  town 
called  Jimzu.  Here  a  large  number  of  oxen  were 
treading  out  grain,  which  is  the  eastern  mode  of 
threshing. 

The  heat  is  intense  and  I  find  my  white  um- 
brella, hat  and  veil,  affording  valuable  protection 
from  the  sun's  rays.  At  noon  we  reach  the  hill 
country  of  Judea,  but  before  commencing  the  ascent 
of  the  mountain  we  rest  for  a  while  under  a  fig  tree 
well  filled  with  fruit.  Here  Nijem  spreads  our  din- 
ner on  a  clean  white  cloth  on  the  ground,  around 
which  we  remain  for  some  time  eating  and  talking. 


234  GOING  UP  TO  JERUSALEM. 

Now  and  then  the  fresh  figs  would  fall  from  the 
tree  upon  our  picnic  table. 

Near  by  was  a  small  hut  with  a  roof  of  old  cloth, 
and  bushes  under  which  a  number  of  Arabs  were 
sitting  and  smoking.  They  would  come  and  look 
at  us  in  silence,  then  go  away.  After  the  intense 
noonday  heat  was  past,  we  commenced  the  journey 
up  the  bed  of  Wady  Suleiman  between  high  rocks, 
continually  meeting  camels  loaded  with  heavy  bur- 
dens, but  moving  patiently  along  without  turning  to 
the  right  or  left.  It  was  often  with  difficulty  that 
we  could  prevent  ourselves  from  being  thrown 
from  our  horses  when  meeting  these  caravans.  The 
second  night  our  camp  was  pitched  in  the  valley  of 
Adjalon,  near  to  an  Arab  village  supposed  to  be 
the  Emmaus  of  the  Bible.  This  has  been  a  restless 
night ;  we  heard  guns  fired  at  short  intervals  during 

the  night.     At  two  o'clock  Mrs.  Dr.  G waked  us, 

and  we  find  the  breakfast  preparing.  Around  the 
fires  are  seated  a  number  of  wild  looking  men,  who 
had  come  from  the  village  to  demand  of  Nijem 
hakshish  for  camping  near  their  town.     Each  one 


GOING  UP  TO  JERUSALEM.  235 

was  armed  witli  a  long  gun,  and  had  a  striped 
blanket  thrown  over  his  shoulders. 

We  ate  our  breakfast  by  candle-light,  and  the 
early  morning  revealed  to  us  Mount  Gibeon  to  the 
north-east.  We  are  truly  on  ground  made  memor- 
able by  sacred  events.  Yonder  stood  Joshua 
when  he  commanded  the  sun  and  moon  to  stand 
stillj  while  down  through  this  valley  swept  the 
Philistines  to  destruction.  We  soon  cross  the 
stream  from  which  David  selected  the  stone  with 
which  he  slew  Goliah. 

After  passing  a  couple  of  villages  situated  in 
deep  valleys  surrounded  with  orange  and  pome- 
granate trees,  we  ride  over  the  last  mountain,  and 
there  before  us  stood  the  walls,  domes,  towers, 
minarets,  and  the  great  dome  of  the  mosque  of 
Omar  towering  over  everything  else. 

We  are  in  sight  of  Jerusalem. 


CHAPTER   XXIX. 

THE    CITY    OF    THE    GREAT    KIXG. 

BELIEVE  it  is  the  testimony  of  almost  all 
pilgrims  that  they  are  peculiarly  affected  at 
Iw?^  the  first  sight  of  the  Holy  City, 
^r        Some  years  ago  when  Francis  Joseph,  Em- 
peror of  Austria,  approached  the  city  he  dismounted 
and  kissed  the  soil,  at  the  same  time  remarking  that 
he  stood  on  holy  ground. 

When  the  army  of  the  Crusaders,  after  repeated 
defeats  and  long  and  fatiguing  marches,  at  last 
came  over  the  mountains  in  sight  of  Jerusalem,  the 
whole  army  as  with  one  voice  burst  forth  into  song. 
I  felt  that  I  could  remain  for  hours  where  I  was, 
before  riding  within  its  walls.  There  stands  clear 
cut  against  the  sky  the  city  which  has  formed  so 
conspicuous  an  object  in  the  world's  history.  It  is 
regarded  with  affection  by  the  Jews,  because  David 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  GREAT  KING.  237 

and  Solomon  reigned  there.     The  Mohammedans 
call  it  the  "  blessed  city  "  for  there  lived  Mahomet 
and  Omar.     We  love  the  name  of  Jerusalem  and 
call   it   the  "Holy  City"    because    in  and  around 
it  occurred  most  of  the  scenes  in  the  life  and  death 
of  our    Savior.     It    has  been  taken  and   retaken 
many  times  during  the  most  terrible  struggles.     It 
has  been  conquered  by  the  King  of  Babylon,  Shis- 
hak,  the  king  of  Egypt,   by  Antiochus  and  after- 
wards by  Pompey,  Sosius,  Herod,  Titus,  and  Omar ; 
consequently  it  has  been  occupied  by  the  Egyptians, 
Assyrians,  Jews,  Romans,  Persians,  Christians  and 
Mohammedans.     During  the  siege  of  the  Romans 
when    Titus   almost     destroyed    the    city,     there 
perished  one  million  ;   and  one  hundred  thousand 
besides  these  the  Romans  carried  away  to  Rome,  and 
Ceserea  ninety  seven  thousand  captives,  it  is  said, 
who  were  thrown  into    the  amphitheatre  and   de- 
stroyed by  wild  beasts,  making  nearly  one  million 
and  a  quarter  slain  by  that  one  war.     Later,  when 
the  Crusaders  under  Godfrey  De  Bouillon  took  Jeru- 
salem, almost  eighty  thousand  Moslems   were  slain 
13 


238  THE  CITY  OF  THE  GREAT  KING. 

in  and  around  the  Mosque  of  Omar.  When  we 
think  that  the  meaning  of  the  word  Jerusalem  is 
"the  habitation  of  peace,"  the  name  seems  singu- 
larly inappropriate. 

I  cannot  realize  that  I  am  looking  upon  the  city 
where  all  this  has  transpired.  Nijem  has  hurried 
on  beyond  the  great  Russian  convent  and  we  find 
our  camp  pitched  on  the  north  side  of  the  city,  just 
outside  the  wall,  midway  between  the  Damascus 
and  Jaffa  gates. 

Jerusalem  is  built  upon  a  high  hill,  or  mountain 
with  deep  valleys  all  around  it,  excepting  on  the 
north  side.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  high  and  strong- 
wall  in  which  are  ^yq;  gates,  four  of  which  are 
now  used.  The  Damascus  gate  on  the  north  side ; 
St.  Stephens  on  the  east ;  and  on  the  west  the  Jaffa 
gate ;  the  southern  or  Zion  gate  is  on  the  south 
side. 

All  of  these  gates  are  thrown  open  in  the  morn- 
ing and  closed  at  night.  Each  one  is  guarded  by 
Moslem  soldiers   who   compel  us  to  hand  to  them 


TEE  CITY  OF  THE  GREAT  KING.  241 

every  parcel,  and  if  it  contains  anything  of  value,  a 
duty  is  required. 

The,  city  is  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  in 
width  by  one  and  three-quarters  in  length.  It  is 
l)ounded  by  the  valleys  of  Kedron  and  Jehoshaphat, 
and  the  Mount  of  Olives,  village  and  pool  of  Siloam^ 
Yalley  of  Hinnom,  Potter's  field,  Hill  of  Evil  Council, 
and  the  Valley  of  Gihon.  The  country  around  has 
a  barren  and  rocky  appearance,  with  here  and  there 
clusters  of  ancient  looking  olive  trees.  Along  the 
road  leading  to  the  gates  are  Arab  women  carrying 
baskets  on  their  heads,  filled  with  chickens,  eggs, 
and  grapes.  Camels  and  donkeys  are  bearing 
heavy  loads  in  and  out  'of  the  city.  By  the  road 
side  sit  miserable  looking  fellalieen  asking  alms, 
while  among  them  are  the  Lepers. 


CHAPTER     XXX. 

WITHIN    THE    HOLY    CITY. 

EELTNG  mucli  fatigued  after  my  journey,  we 
^|jSf    enter  by  tlie  Damascus  gate  and  stop  at  the 


Damascus  Hotel;  tliere  are  only  two  here, 
the  Damascus  and  the  Mediterranean.  Up 
a  narrow  flight  of  stairs  into  an  open  court  or  stone 
paved  hall,  we  are  shown  into  a  large  square  room 
with  cemented  floor,  furnished  plainly,  but  in  Eu- 
ropean style.  The  walls  are  high,  with  niches  in 
them,  and  there  is  one  double  window  iron  barred. 
The  apartment  is  not  very  cheerful  looking,  but  Ave 
shall  soon  become  accustomed  to  it  as  we  are  to  re- 
main here  several  days. 

This  is  a  calm  and  bright  morning  as  we  go  out  to 
explore  the  city.  The*streets  are  narrow  and  filled 
with  Jews,  Arabs,  Turks,  Armenians,  Copts,  Syri- 
ans, and    Greeks.       The   houses   are   massive   and 


WITHIN  THE  HOLY  CITY.  243 

gloomy,  often  arching  across  the  street.  They  are 
square,  and  generally  have  domes  on  the  top  for 
the  purpose  of  keeping  the  upper  rooms  cool.  Un- 
der the  houses  are  large  stone  cisterns  which  hold 
the  water,  as  it  rains  here  only  during  three  months 
of  the  year.  The  water  which  we  used  at  the  hotel 
had  been  in  the  cistern  six  months,  yet  it  was  cool 
and  sweet.  Along  the  streets  are  Turkish  shops, 
and  there  is  a  large  bazaar  where  considerable  trad- 
ing is  carried  on.  Quite  a  business  is  done  in  mak- 
ins:  and  selling:  curiosities  from  the  olive  wood — 
.paper  cutters,  beads,  rulers,  canes,  boxes,  and  cups 
made  of  it,  are  offered  in  almost  every  street. 

We  first  visit  the  church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre. 
Walking  under  an  archway  into  a  large  open  court 
we  are  before  one  of  the  most  ancient  Christian 
structures  in  the  world.  It  is  an  immense  building, 
divided  into  several  chapels,  owned  and  used  for 
worship  by  the  Greeks,  Armenians,  Latins,  Syrians, 
and  Copts,  as  they  cannot  agree  to  worship  togeth- 
er. The  church  is  filled  with  crowds  of  people, 
priests,  beggars,  and   pilgrims   from  many   distant 


244  WITHIN  THE  HOLY  CITY 

lands.  Inside  of  tlie  entrance  is  a  smooth  stone 
slab ;  this  is  pointed  out  by  our  guide  as  being  the 
stone  on  which  the  body  of  Christ  was  prepared 
for  the  sepulchre.  Turning  to  the  left,  the  place  is 
marked  where  the  Marys  stood  to  witness  the  cruci- 
fixion. Going  through  the  Greek  chapel,  which  is 
the  richest  of  all  the  chapels,  up  a  winding  stair- 
w^ay,  we  stand  upon  a  large  rock,  said  to  be  the  top 
of  Mount  Calvary.  Here  is  an  altar  very  tastefully 
arranged  with  flowers  and  lights,  and  over  the  altar 
hangs  a  very  beautiful  picture  of  the  Virgin  Mary 
and  child,  with  an  inscription  formed  with  diamonds. 

Returning  to  the  body  of  the  church,  we  find  the 
different  worshipers  thronging. toward  the  sepul- 
chre. 

While  they  cannot  agree  to  worship  in  the  same 
room,  they  are  willing  to  go  through  with  their 
devotions  under  one  roof,  and  I  noticed  that  once 
during  the  ceremonies  they  all  visited  the  tomb  of 
Christ.  What  a  beautiful  thought,  that  whatever 
our  differences  may  be,  we  can  all  meet  around  the 
tomb  of  the  Savior. 


HOLY  SEPULCHRE. 


WITHIN  THE  HOLY  CITY.  247 

Under  the  dome  is  a  small  chapel  supported  by 
sixteen  marble  columns.  The  first  room  is  six  by 
ten  feet.  Here  is  the  stone  on  which  the  angel  sat 
that  announced  the  glad  tidings  of  the  resurrection. 
From  there  we  passed  into  the  inner  chamber,  or 
holy  sepulchre.  It  is  about  six  feet  square.  On 
one  side  is  a  heavy  stone  sarcophagus,  three  feet  in 
height.  In  this  the  body  of  Christ  lay.  The  tomb 
is  covered  with  a  white  marble  slab,  and  over  it 
hang  forty  solid  gold  and  silver  lamps,  which  have 
been  kept  burning  night  and  day  for  hundreds  of 
years.  At  one  end  stands  a  monk  chanting  and 
sprinkling  perfumed  water  over  the  tomb.  Here 
Christ  burst  the  bonds  of  death  and  came  forth  to 
redeem  a  lost  and  sinful  world.  To  this  spot  the 
nobility  of  all  nations  have  come  to  bathe  its  cold 
stone  with  their  tears,  and  I  could  not  but  feel  the 
power  and  truth  of  the  story  of  the  christian  reli- 
gion. Some  travelers  have  disputed  about  the 
location  of  the  tomb  of  Christ,  placing  it  a  few  feet 
this  way  or  that.     It  made  but  little  difference  with 


248 


WITHIN  THE  HOLY  CITY. 


my  feelings;  I  knew  I  was  standing  near  the  place 
where  my  Savior  died,  and  was  buried. 

The   half  hour   spent  here  has  more   than  re- 
warded me  for  all  the  trouble  of  my  pilgrimage. 


J;'^f  <^ 


HOUSETOPS    OF   BETROUT. 


CHAPTER     XXX  I. 

THE  PEOPLE  OF  JERUSALEM. 

HE  principal  occupation  of  the  people  ap- 
pears to    be  worshiping    and   performing 
TfeS-     some  ceremony  in  a  church,  tomb,  mosque, 
or  convent. 

The  first  thing  I  remember  seeing  when  ap- 
proaching the  city  was  a  procession  of  nuns,  dressed 
in  white,  marching  from  the  Jaffa  gate  down  into 
the  valley  of  Gihon. 

Every  religious  sect  in  Europe,  and  the  East,  ap- 
parently, take  pride  in  being  represented  by  a  place 
of  worship.  A  great  amount  of  money  is  sent  here 
for  that  purpose.  The  French  catholics  have  re- 
cently bought  a  site  near  Pilate's  house,  and  they 
are  erecting  an  expensive  building  to  be  used  as  a 
catholic  school. 


250  ^-^^  PEOPLE  OF  JERUSALEM. 

The  Armenians  have  a  convent  covering  a  large 
space  of  ground.  It  will  accommodate  three 
thousand  pilgrims.  The  church  within  the  convent 
is  finished  in  mosaic,  and  contains  the  tomb  of  St. 
James. 

The  Russian  church,  which  is  the  Greek,  has 
recently  erected  a  convent  on  the  north  side  of  the 
city,  outside  of  the  wall,  covering  several  acres,  and 
costing  an  immense  amount  of  money.  All  this, 
together  with  pilgrims  continually  coming  bring- 
quite  a  revenue  to  the  Holy  City. 

The  protestant  religion  has  the  smallest  repre- 
sentation here  of  all  the  religious  sects.  There  is 
but  one  small  chapel,  which  is  denominated  Christ 
Church,  and  supported  by  a  London  society. 
There  are  one  or  two  protestant  missionaries  usually 
residing  here,  one  of  whom  called  upon  us  at  the 
hotel. 

From  St.  Stephen's  gate,  where  stood  the  Tower 
of  Antonio,  is  a  street  named  the  Yia  -Dolorosa, 
leading  up  to  mount  Calvary  and  the  church  of  the 
Holy  Sepulchre.     This  is  the  way  Christ  was  led  to 


THE  PEOPLE  OF  JERUSALEM.  251 

crucifixion.  It  passes  Pilate's  house,  Ecce  Homo 
Arch,  on  which  the  Redeemer  stood  with  Pilate 
when  the  people  cried  out  "  Crucify  Him !  Crucify 
Him !  "  and  the  Judgment  Hall,  which  is  now  used 
for  Turkish  barracks. 

Priests,  monks,  and  nuns  are  constantly  walking 
up  and  down  the  Via  Dolorosa,  chanting  prayers. 
Just  outside  of  the  north  wall  of  the  temple  area, 
is  the  Pool  of  Bethesda.  It  is  a  large  excavation, 
containing  a  pool  of  stagnant  water. 

There  are  over  two  hundred  Lepers  still  in  Jeru- 
salem. They  live  in  wretched  huts  grouped  in  the 
south  part  of  the  city,  called  the  Lepers'  Quarters. 
They  are  allowed  to  marry  among  themselves,  and 
sit  along  the  highways  and  beg  of  the  passers  by, 
but  are  forbidden  to  have  any  further  intercourse 
with  the  people. 

The  town  house  of  Caiphas,  where  Christ  was 
confined  the  night  before  the  crucifixion,  and  the 
tower  of  Hippicus  built  by  Herod  th^  Great,  still 
retain  their  former  massiveness,  but  show  signs  of 
great  antiquity.     From   the  top  of  the    Tower  of 


252  ^^^  PEOPLE  OF  JERUSALEM. 

Hippiciis  a  gun  is  fired  morning  and  evening,  which 
is  a  signal  for  opening  and  closing  the  gates  of  the 
city.  Near  by  are  the  tombs  of  David  and  Solo- 
mon. Over  them  is  a  Turkish  mosque,  containing 
the  "  Upper  Room"  where  the  Last  Supper  was 
eaten,  and  where  the  disciples  were  gathered  on  the 
day  of  Pentecost. 

All  day  long,  old  Jews  and  Jewesses  are  wander- 
ing about  these  tombs.  We  are  told  that  for  over 
six  hundred  years  no  Jew  or  Christian  has  ever 
been  allowed  to  enter  the  tombs  of  these  great 
kings,  excepting  in  one  instance,  about  thirty  years 
ao'o,  when  a  Jew  banker  of  London,  and  his  wife, 
were  permitted  by  the  sultan  to  descend,  and  look 
through  a  grating,  to  see  the  tombs  of  David  and 
Solomon,  for  which  privilege  the  banker  paid  a 
large  sum  of  money. 

One  of  the  most  touching  scenes  which  I  have 
witnessed  here  is  the  wailing  of  the  Jews,  at  the 
"Jews'  Wailing  Place."  It  is  outside  of  the  west 
wall  of  the  temple  area.  They  believe  this  wall  hat 
never  been  destroyed,  but  is  the  identical  one  which 


THE  PEOPLE  OF  JERUSALEM.  253 

Solomon  built.  It  is  composed  of  enormous  blocks 
of  stone,  showing  the  Jewish  bevel,  which  attests 
its  antiquity.  As  the  Jews  are  not  allowed  to  enter 
the  temple  enclosure,  they  come  here  to  wail.  Go- 
ing there  one  afternoon,  we  found  nearly  a  hundred 
Jews,  some  on  their  knees,  others  bent  forward, 
'  with  books  before  them,  wailing  for  the  loss  of  their 
temple,  city,  and  kingdom.  The  stones  are  worn 
smooth  with  their  kisses.  They  come  from  all  parts 
of  the  world  to  their  revered  city,  to  lay  their  bones 
near  their  great  ancestors.  The  proprietor  of  the 
Damascus  hotel  informed  us  that  within  the  last 
three  years  several  thousand  Jews  have  come  to 
Jerusalem.  They  believe  that  the  final  judgment 
of  the  world  will  take  place  here.  When  we  re- 
turned to  the  sea  coast  we  met  a  large  company  of 
old  Jews  going  up  to  Jerusalem  to  die. 

On  the  west  side  of  the  city,  across  the  valley  of 

Grihon,  stands  a  structure  capable  of  accomodating 

hundreds  of  persons.     This  is  called  the  Jews'  Hos- 

•  pital,  and  has  been  erected  by  wealthy  Israelites  in 

Europe.     If  these  people  who  live  here  have  prop- 


254         THE  PEOPLE  OF  JERUSALEM. 

erty  of  value  the  authorities  take  it  from  them,  and 
as  they  are  always  idle  they  have  no  visible  means 
of  support,  and  whatever  they  have  of  value  they 
secrete.  It  is  thought  that  the  Jews  know  of  im- 
mense treasures  hid  in  the  caves  under  Jerusalem, 
from  which  many  of  them  derive  their  support. 
Their  history  has  been  one  of  sorrow  and  suffering 
in  the  East  since  they  were  conquered  by  the  Ro- 
mans. During  the  reign  of  Adrian  they  were  driven 
from  Palestine  altogether.  Under  the  rule  of  Con- 
stantine  they  were  allowed  to  come  on  to  the 
mountains  about  Jerusalem,  and  look  into  the  city : 
but  if  a  Jew  was  found  within  its  walls  he  was  in- 
stantly put  to  death.  Truly,  they  have  been  scat- 
tered over  the  earth,  and  their  holy  house  despoiled. 


I 


CHAPTER    XXXII, 

THE    TEMPLE. 

EARLY  one  quarter  of  the  space  within  the 
walls  of  Jerusalem  is  occupied  by  the  Tem- 
ple Area. 

It  is  only  within  a  few  years  that  any 
but  Mohammedans  have  been  permitted  to  enter  the 
enclosure.  We  had  to  wait  two  days  before  we 
could  get  a  finnan^  or  written  permission  to  visit 
it.  We  were  charged  for  the  permit  a  sum  of 
money,  and  were  accompanied  by  a  mussulman 
guard,  who  faithfully  watched  to  see  that  we  did 
not  pollute  the  place  by  touching  with  our  fingers 
anything  inside  the  walls.  Excepting  Mecca,  this  is 
the  most  sacred  place  on  the  earth  to  the  Mohamme- 
dans. 

In  the  center  of  the  inclosure  stands  the  Mosque 
of  Omar  crowned  with  a  lofty  dome,  which  is   the 


256  THE  TEMPLE. 

most  conspicuous  object,  seen  from  nny  direction  in 
whicH  you  approach  the  city.  The  mosque  stands 
upon  the  top  of  Mount  Moriah.  Here  is  the  thresh- 
ing floor,  which  was  purchased  by  David  for  fifty 
shekels  of  silver,  also  the  Holy  of  Holies  of  Solo- 
mon's Temple.  The  interior  of  the  mosque  is 
most  elegant,  and  around  the  sides  are  written 
selections  from  the  Koran. 

In  the  center  is  a  rock  called  Es  Sukhrali^  on 
which  it  is  supposed  Abraham  offered  up  his  son 
Isaac.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  high  railing.  De- 
scending several  stone  steps  we  come  to  a  cave 
directly  under  the  rock.  For  the  purpose  of  enter- 
ing this  cave  once  the  devoted  followers  of  Mahomet 
will  come  thousands  of  miles,  for  there  they  stand 
where  their  great  prophet  once  stood.  They  say 
that  the  night  after  his  flight  from  Mecca  to  Jeru- 
salem he  rested  in  this  cave.  They  also  be- 
lieve that  the  prayers  which  they  ofier  up  here 
will  surely  be  answered.  Near  the  Mosque  is  a 
marble  fountain,  at  which  one  of  our  company  stop- 
ped  to   drink,  when   instantly  one  of  the  Moslem 


INTERIOR  OF  '•'HE  MOSQUE  OMAR. 


TEE  TEMPLE.  259 

soldiers  sprang  forwai'd  with  drawn  cutlass  as  if  to 
strike  down  the  christian  who  would  dare  commit 
such  a  sacrilege  in  the  holy  place. 

In  the  southern  part  of  the  Area  stands  another 
massive  building  called  the  mosque  of  El  Ahsa. 
This  is  very  ancient  looking.  Some  of  the 
foundation  of  this  mosque,  is  without  doubt  built 
from  the  ruins  of  the  Temple.  Here  is  an  entrance 
to  a  subterranean  passage-way.  Going  down  several 
steps  we  came  to  a  vaulted  chamber  supported  by 
arches  and  keystones,  evidently  of  great  age.  The 
blocks  of  stone  are  of  wonderous  size  and  probably 
date  back  to  the  time  of  Solomon.  This  may  have 
been  one  of  the  passages  of  the  Temple.  Explora- 
tions are  going  forward  by  the  French  and  English, 
and  if  funds  can  be  supplied,  there  is  no  doubt  that 
much  more  of  the  plan  of  ancient  Jerusalem  and  the 
Temple  will  be  revealed. 

Returning  to  the  mosque  of  El  Ahsa  we  observed 

the  curiously  carved  pulpit  from   which   Mahomet 

preached.     Adjoining  are   two  smoothly  polished 

pillars  standing  over  thirty  feet  in  height.     The 
14 


2^0  '^^^  TEMPLE. 

Mohammedaus  assured  us  that  Maliomet  once  pas- 
sed between  them,  and  all  who  follow  his  example 
will  loose  their  sins.  For  this  purpose  the  Moslems 
will  undergo  a  long  pilgrimage,  and  untold  depriv- 
ations. The  pillars  stand  near  together,  making  it 
difficult  for  any  one  to  go  between  them.  Of  course 
we  were  anxious  to  be  rid  of  our  sins,  and  conse- 
quently made  some  exertions  to  accomplish  the 
feat.  We  all  passed  between  the  columns,  save  the 
venerable  Major,  who  is  quite  portly.  He  made 
several  attempts,  being  assisted  by  the  Pilgrims,  and 
at  one  time  he  became  so  wedged  in  between  the 
pillars  that  considerable  anxiety  was  felt  for  his 
safety.  He  was  finally  extricated  and  gave  up  the 
effort  in  despair.  It  was  a  favorite  pleasantry,  for 
some  time  after,  that  the  Major  was  the  only  sinner 
left  of  the  company. 

Not  far  from  this  mosque  are  to  be  seen  the  rem- 
nants of  the  bridge  which  led  from  the  Temple  to 
Mount  Zion,  on  which  St)lomon  walked  with  the 


THE  TEMPLE.  261 

august  Queen  who  was  visiting  him,  and  who  ex- 
claimed as  he  pointed  out  to  her  the  glory  and 
splendor  of  his  holy  habitation,  "  The  half  had  not 
been  told." 


CHAPTER     XXXIII. 

THE    TURKISH    FAMH^Y. 

AST  night  I  was  aroused  from   my  slumber 
^ji^^lJ,  by  an  Oriental  marriage  procession  passing 
tSf   bejieatli     my     window.       The    bride    was 
W^    being  borne   to  the   house  of  the    groom, 
-amid  the  shouts  and  songs  of  her  friends. 

The  marriages  are  generally  contracted  by  the 
parents  of  the  bride  and  groom.  If  the  parties  are 
wealthy  a  large  sum  of  money  is  paid  to  the  parents 
of  the  bride  by  the  groom,  which  is  invested  in 
costly  jewels  to  be  worn  by  her.  These  become 
absolutely  her  property,  and  thus  remain  through 
her  life.  The  jewels  can  never  be  taken  by  law  to 
pay  the  husband's  debts,  neither  has  he  the  power 
to  dispose  of  them. 

When  the  day  arrives  for  the  wedding  ceremony, 


THE  TURKISH  FAMIL  Y.  263 

or  Kikeah^  to  take  place,  tlie  invited  guests  assem- 
ble at  the  residence  of  the  bride  who  is  dressed 
in  white  and  brought  out  of  her  home.  Sometimes 
she  is  seated  upon  a  platform  which  is  carried  upon 
the  shoulders  of  her  friends  amid  great  rejoicing, 
through  the  streets  to  the  house  of  the  groom 
where  she  is  met  by  him  at  the  door  and  led  into 
the  Harem,  when  the  veil  is  removed  from  her  face, 
and  often  this  is  the  first  time  he  beholds  the  face 
of  his  wife. 

In  company  with  our  hostess  to-day,  I  have  visited 
a  wealthy  Turkish  family.     We  went  on  horseback, 

Mrs.  T ,  riding  her  own   white   Arabian  pony. 

As  our  horses  hoofs  rattle  over  the  rough  cobble 
stone  pavement  of  the  streets  of  Jerusalem,  it  is  ne- 
cessary for  us  to  hold  the  animals  with  a  tight  rein 
to  prevent  them  from  stumbling ;  for  in  many 
places  the  stones  are  worn  quite  smooth.  The  ser- 
vant had  gone  in  advance  to  announce  our  coming. 

We  were  met  by  the  ladies  of  the  house,  at  the 
door  of  the  Harem,  where  three  pairs  of  sandals  in- 
laid with  pearl   were  standing. 


9 Q^  TEE  TURKISH  FAMILY. 

There  was  no  particular  ceremony  of  introduction, 
further  than  the  information  that  I  was  a  hidy  from 
America.  This  is  Oriental  etiquette.  The  ladies 
were  dressed  in  flowing  robes,  silk  girdles,  full 
trowsers,  and  fancy  turbans. 

We  were  ushered  into  the  ladies  private  apart- 
ments, the  floor  of  which  was  white  cement,  polished 
to  shine  like  marble.  The  windows  were  incased  in 
fine  lattices,  in  such  a  manner  that  the  inmate  cannot 
be  seen  while  the  passer-by  is  fully  visible.  On 
three  sides  of  the  room  were  divans  covered  with 
pink  silk  and  lace.  Being  seated,  a  Nubian  woman 
brouo'ht  Sherbet — a  kind  of  lemonade — flavored 
with  rose ;  after  this,  coffee  in  small  china  cups  set 
in  zerfs^  or  stands  of  gold  which  were  exquisite, 

"  And  Mocha's  berry,  from  Arabia,  pure, 
In  small  fine  china  cups,  came  in  at  last ; 
Gold  cups  of  filigree,  made  to  secure 
The  hand  from  burning,  underneath  them  placed." 

Then  followed  cigarettes,  which  the  ladies  folded 
dextrously. 


THE  TURKISH  FAMIL  Y.  267 

It  pleased  thein  exeeedingly  wlien  I  iuformed 
tliein  that  although  I  did  not  smoke,  I  would  take 
-the  cigarettes  home  with  me  as  a  souvenir  of  the 
pleasant  visit.  Upon  this  they  wrapped  them  in 
white  silk  and  presented  them. 

The  inspection  of  my  garments  was  next  in  order. 
These  they  examined  thoroughly,  even  to  the  but- 
tons on  my  dress,  and  were  much  interested  in 
trying  on  my  gloves.  They  then  brought  forth 
their  wardrobe  of  rich  silk  gauze  and  Persian  stuffs, 
embroidered  with  gold  tinsel.  They  wished  to  robe 
me  in  them,  but  I  had  them  bestow  the  compliment 

upon   my   friend   Mrs.   T .     They   showed   us 

through  the  rooms  of  the  establishment  and  also 
took  us  on  the  top  of  the  house,  which  had  a  stone 
parapet  six  or  seven  feet  high  running  around  the 
the  edge.  Through  this  wall  were  holes  to  enable 
the  women  to  look  through. 

They  were  unremitting  in  their  attention. 
After  the  ceremony  of  leave  taking,  which  is  sim- 
lar  to  the  meeting,  we  bade  them  good-by. 


268  THE  TURKISH  FAMILY. 

One  of  tlie  characteristics  of  tlie  East  is  hos- 
pitality, and  there  is  no  lack  of  social  polite- 
ness. 

We  returned  by  the  way  of  the  Bazaar. 


CHAPTER    XXXIY. 

OUTSIDE    THE    WALLS. 

i^N  making  the  circuit  of  Jerusalem  outside 
the  walls,  we  start  from  the  Damascus  erate 
^?%^  toward  the  east.  Going  a  distance  of 
*^^  eight  or  ten  rods,  we  come  to  the  entrance 
of  the  caves  under  the  city,  whose  existence  had 
been  unknown  to  the  world  for  many  centuries, 
until  some  years  since  a  missionary  in  making  ex- 
plorations around  the  city  discovered  them  by 
means  of  his  dog.  Having  procured  our  guide  and 
torches  we  crept  upon  our  hands  and  knees  through 
a  small  opening  under  the  walls,  and  gradually  de- 
scending over  two  hundred  feet,  we  find  ourselves 
in  a  room  of  great  height  and  width,  chiseled  out 
of  the  rock.  Pursuing  a  downward  course,  pres- 
ently we  come  to  another  cave  still  larger.  Here 
are  huge  blocks  of  stone  lying  upon  the   ground. 


27Q  OUTSIDE  TEE  WALLS. 

otliers  in  the  sides  hewn  and  almost  rea-dy  to  fall,  just 
as  the  workmen  left  them,  thousands  of  years  ago. 
It  is  thought  that  here  Solomon  obtained  much  of 
the  material  for  the  building  of  the  Temple ;  a  be- 
lief which  has  been  much  strengthened  by  the 
recent  discovery  of  a  passage  leading  down  from 
the  temple  area  to  the  caves  below.  Probably, 
during  the  terrible  sieges  of  Jerusalem  in  ancient 
times,  the  women  and  children  have  found  a  refuge 
in  these  subterranean  vaults.  Another  theory  of 
historians  is,  that  immense  treasures  have  been 
secreted  by  the  early  nations  in  these  vast  caves. 
In  one  stands  a  large  pool  of  water,  into  which  we 
throw  a  stone  and  hear  the  hollow  'echo  reverbe- 
rating through  the  dismal  chambers  for  many 
seconds.  We  find  the  place  damp  and  disagreeable, 
and  we  are  glad  to  return  to  the  sunlight  and  fresh 
air. 

To  the  northeast  of  the  city  are  the  tombs  where 
were  buried  the  Jewish  Sanhedrim  and  the  ancient 
Kings.  The  Sanhedrim  was  the  highest  judicial 
and  legislative  body  of  the  Jews.    It  was  composed 


0UT6LUE  THE   WALLS.  271 

of  seventy  members,  and  they  met  daily,  witli  the 
exception  of  Saturday,  in  the  "hewn  stone  cham- 
ber" of  the  Temple.  Napoleon  I.  convened  a  san- 
hedrim of  seventy-one  members  in  1807  in  Paris, 
for  the  purpose  of  regulating  Jewish  affairs  in 
France/ 

With  lighted  tapers  we  explored  these  empty 
vaults  and  receptacles  for  the  dead.  Silence  and 
darkness  prevailed.  . 

Turning  around  the  northeast  corner  of  the  wall 
and  going  southward,  we  reach  St.  Stephen's  gate, 
from  which  a  rocky  path  leads  down  into  the  valley 
of  Jehoshaphat  and  across  the  brook  Kedron  to  the 
Garden  of  Gethsemane.  It  is  surrounded  by  a 
high  stone  wall.  Knocking  at  an  iron  door,  the 
only  entrance,  we  are  received  by  a  Latin  monk, 
who  guides  us  around  the  garden.  Within  the  en- 
closure are  beds  of  flowers  and  several  ancient  olive 
trees. 

It  was  here  that  our  Savior  was  betrayed  and 
spent  the  hours  of  agony.  I  could  not  gaze  upon 
the  spot 


2»j^2  OUTSIDE  THE  WALLS. 

"Witliout  high  thoughts  and  solemn,  of  that  scene 
When,  in  the  Garden,  the  Redeemer  prayed — 
When  pale  stars  looked  upon  his  fainting  head." 

The  monk  gave  me  a  bouquet  of  flowers,  which 
he  had  plucked  in  the  garden.  I  shall  press,  and 
treasure  them,  as  one  of  the  most  valuable  souve- 
nirs of  my  journeyings. 

Close  by  is  another  walled  inclosure,  to  mark  the 
pla^e  where  the  disciples  slept.  A  short  distance 
to  the  north  is  a  low  flat  stone  building.  We  cross 
an  open  court  and. go  down  thirty  to  forty  steps, 
and  are  in  the  Tomb  of  the  Virgin  Mary.  Different 
colored  lights  are  suspended  from  the  ceiling,  and 
the  interior  is  filled  with  clouds  of  burning  incense. 
A  long  procession  of  priests,  monks,  and  nuns  are 
marching  to  and  fro,  with  lighted  candles.  Mingling 
with  the  throng  we  are  soon  beside  the  tomb,  which 
is  at  one  end  of  the  cave.  It  is  of  white  marble, 
and  over  it  are  strewn  white  roses.  We  are  told 
that  once  a  week  this  service  takes  place,  to  com- 
memorate the  hour  Christ  died  upon  the  cross. 

Following  the  dry  bed  of  the  Kedron,  down  the 


OUTSIDE  THE  WALLS.  273 

valley,  on  the  lef  twe  come  to  the  Tombs  of  Jehosha- 
phat,  Zechariah,  and  the  Pillar  of  Absalom,  all  cut 
in  the  rock.  This  was  the  King's  dale,  and  here 
Absalom  erected  this  monument.  A  noticeable  pe- 
culiarity is,  that  it  is  almost  covered  up  with  small 
pieces  of  stone  thrown  by  the  Jews.  They  have  a 
custom  of  tossing  a  stone  at  it  every  time  they  pass, 
which  is  for  the  purpose  of  showing  their  contempt 
for  Absalom's  conduct  toward  his  father  David. 

We  are  now  in  the  valley  of  Kedron.  Turning  to 
the  right,  by  the  village  of  Siloam,  we  stop  to 
bathe  our  faces  and  drink  of  the  clear,  cool  water 
of  the  Pool  of  Siloam.  The  maidens  of  Jerusalem 
are  carrying  the  water  from  the  spring  in  earthen 
jars  upon  their  heads  up  to  the  city.  It  is  indeed 
an  ancient  picture. 

To  the  west  of  the  pool  and  south  of  the  city, 
we  cross  the  valley  of  Gehenna,  or  Hinnom.  Here 
stood  the  statue  of  Moloch,  into  whose  fiery  furnace 
were  cast  the  victims  amid  the  shouts  of  its  wor- 
shipers. God  being  displeased  with  their  conduct, 
the  prophet  Jeremiah  pronounced  a  curse  upon  the 


274  [OUTSIDE  THE  WALLS. 

ground,  saying,  "  It  shall  no  more  be  called  Tophet, 
or  tlie  Valley  of  the  Son  of  Hinnom,  but  the  Yalley 
of  Slaughter,  for  they  shall  bury  in  Tophet  till 
there  be  no  place."  During  the  Roman  seige  this 
prophecy  was  fulfilled  by  the  burying  in  this  valley 
of  over  one  hundred  thousand  of  the  slain,  until 
there  was  no  more  room.  Here  a  fire  was  continu- 
ally kept  burning  to  consume  the  refuse  cast  out 
from  Jerusalem.  No  doubt  Christ  used  as  an  illus- 
tration this  valley,  "  Where  the  worm  dieth  not  and 
the  fire  is  not  quenched." 

To  the  Southeast  stands  Potter's  Field,  the  bury- 
ing place  for  strangers,  and  the  Hill  of  Evil  Coun- 
cil, on  which  the  Jews  formed  their  conspiracy 
against  the  Savior.  The  path  leads  around  the 
base  of  Mount  Zion  to  the  Yalley  of  Gihon.  In  this 
valley  on  the  west  side  of  the  city  is  the  Pool  of 
Gihon,  where  Solomon  was  crowned  king  over 
Israel,  in  place  of  his  father  David. 


CHAPTEE  XXXY. 

MOUNT    OF    OLIVES    AND    BETHANY. 

•HIS  clay  is  no  exception  to  all  the  days  of 
onr  stay  in  Jerusalem,  being  extremely 
pleasant  and  tlie  atmosphere  unusually  trans- 
parent. 

Leaving  the  city  through  St.  Stephen's  gate  our 
horses  slowly  pick  their  way  along  the  rocky  path 
across  the  valley  of  Jehoshaphat,  over  the  Kedron 
bridge,  and  by  the  garden  of  Gethsemane,  up  the 
side  of  the  mount  of  Olives,  which  is  still  dotted 
with  olive  trees. 

The  olive  is  the  most  numerous  of  all  the  trees 
in  Palestme  and  a  most  useful  one  to  the  inhabitants, 
who  derive  from  it  both  light  and  food.  It  some- 
what resembles  the  willow  and  bears  a  small  green 


276  MOUNT  OF  OLIVES  AND  BETHANY, 

fruit,  which,  as  it  ripens,  becomes  a  purple  color. 
This  fruit  is  largely  manufactured  in  the  east  into 
oil,  which  forms  an  important  part  of  the  sustenance 
of  the  people.  Extensive  orchards  of  these  trees 
are  to  be  found  everywhere  scattered  through 
Syria. 

Reaching  the  summit  of  Olivet  one  of  the  finest 
panoramas  in  the  Holy  Land  is  before  us.  To  the 
east  are  the  mountains  of  Moab,  the  valley  of  the 
Jordan  and  the  Dead  Sea.  To  the  north  are  the 
hills  of  Benjamin,  and  in  the  south  Judea's  lofty 
mountains  are  in  view. 

Jerusalem  lies  at  our  feet  on  the  west.  Most  of 
the  sketches  of  Jerusalem  are  taken  from  this  point. 
One  cannot  wonder  that  Jesus  often  resorted  hither. 
Looking  down  upon  the  city  how  deep  and  tender 
must  have  been  His  feelings  when  He  predicted  the 
destruction  of  Jerusalem,  "  0,  Jerusalem !  Jerusa- 
lem !  how  often  would  I  have  gathered  thy  children 
together,  even  as  a  hen  gathereth  her  chickens  under 
her  wings,  and   ye  would  not!  "     Here  Christ  for- 


MOUNT  OF  OLIVES  AND  BETHANY.  277 

told  the  last  Judgment,  and  preached  with  such 
power  to  his  disciples. 

The  church  of  the  Ascension,  now  a  Turkish 
Mosque,  crowns  the  hill.  We  are  received  at  the 
door,  and  led  to  the  place  where  tradition  places 
Christ's  ascension,  though  the  Bible  leads  us  to 
believe  that  it  was  further  east,  toward  Bethany. 

Here  David  stood  and  wept  over  Jerusalem  as 
he  fled  to  the  east  of  the  Jordan  crying,  "0,  Abso- 
lom!  my  son !  my  son  !  " 

Taking  the  road  which  leads  around  the  southern 
crest  of  Olivet  we  continue  our  journey  to  Beth- 
any ;  every  place  around  us  has  been  made  sacred 
by  the  Savior.  Along  this  path  he  rode  in  triumph 
while  the  people  threw  down  palm  branches  before 
him.  Across  the  valley  to  the  south  is  the  village 
where  he  sent  the  young  man  to  untie  the  colt. 
Where  our  footsteps  are  treading  frequently  walk- 
ed Martha,  Mary,  and  Lazarus,  going  and  returning 
from  Jerusalem. 

In  less  than  an  hour  we  reach  Bethany  situated  on 

the  Eastern  slope  of  the  Mount  of  Olives.     It  is  now 
15 


278  MOUNT  OF  OLIVES  AND  BETHANY. 

a  desolate  looking  place,  and  a  few  low  miserable 
huts  inhabited  by  Arabs  is  all  that  remains  of  the 
once  beautiful  village,  where  Mary  and  Martha 
lived,  and  where  Lazarus  was  raised  from  the  dead. 
The  ruins  of  a  stone  building  are  pointed  out  to  us 
as  being  the  very  house  of  Mary.  In  the  rear  of  a 
court  attached  to  this  house  is  a  monk  with  a 
large  key.  Beckoning  us  to  come  where  he  stood, 
he  iinlocked  an  iron  door  and  we  follow  him  down 
twenty-six  stone  steps  to  the  tomb  of  Lazarus.  It 
is  a  dark  and  damp  place.  An  excavation  in  a 
heavy  block  of  stone  on  one  side  of  the  .cave  is  said 
to  be  where  the  body  of  Lazarus  lay. 

I  may  here  remark  that  there  is  more  or  less 
skepticism  am.ong  travelers  regarding  the  identity 
of  many  of  the  places  pointed  out  in  Palestine. 

There  are  some  good  reasons  for  these  doubts, 
and  yet  when  I  behold  how  solid  and  enduring  are 
all  the  structures  which  are  composed  entirely  of 
rock  and  cement,  I  am  inclined  to  believe  that 
much  is  still  remaining;  as  it  stood  eiirhteen  centuries 

o  o 

ago.     It  is  enough  for  me  to  know  that  I  nm  walk- 


MOUNT  OF  OLIVES  AND  BETHANY.  279 

ing  upon  the  ground  and  looking  upon  the  identi- 
cal hills  and  valleys  that  Christ  and  his  Disciples 
looked  upon. 

Words  cannot  image  forth  the  fervent  emotions 
and  impressions  made  upon  mj  heart  by  these 
scenes. 


CHAPTER    XXXVI. 

BETHLELEM. 

roi  ^T I  JEM  guides  us  across  the  plain  of  Repliaim 
-mmJW  ^Q  ii^Q  convent  of  Mar  Elias.  In  one  Hour 
A^},  we  halt  by  a  square  stone  building  crowned 
with  a  small  dome,  inside  of  which  is  the 
tomb  of  Rachel.  "  And  Rachel  died,  and  was  buried 
in  the  way  to  Ephrath,  which  is  Bethlehem,  and 
Jacob  set  a  pillar  upon  her  grave,  that  is  the  pillar 
of  Rachel's  grave  unto  this  day."  We  lingered  by 
the  tomb  of  the  lovely  Rachel.  Why  was  she 
buried  in  this  lonely  place,  and  not  with  her  kin- 
dred at  Hebron  ?  Bethlehem  is  now  in  sight,  with 
the  church  of  the  Nativity  distinctly  visible.  We 
enter  the  city  through  a  heavy  stone  archway,  and 
thread  our  way  toward  the  spot  where  Christ  was 
born,  followed  by  a  crowd  of  half-grown  Arab  boys 
and  girls.     Hitching  our  horses  we  are  invited  into 


^^mmm 


il"'"!!E;!llii(v. 


i 

!i|l|p 


I  lii 


!^'' 


'!/ 


BETHLEHEM,  283 

the  convent  attaclied  to  the  church  where  "  raki 
and  jelly  "  are  offered  us.  After  this  a  Franciscan 
monk  appeared  with  a  large  bunch  of  keys  to  con- 
duct us  through  the  buildings.  We  are  now  in  the 
oldest  Christian  church  in  the  world,  built  by  Helena 
the  mother  of  Constantino.  Through  the  Basilica 
of  Helena,  and  the  Greek  chapel,  we  descend  several 
steps  behind  the  altar,  and  reach  the  Sacred  Grotto 
or  birth-place  of  the  Redeemer.  In  the  marble 
pavement  is  placed  a  large  silver  star  to  mark  the 
spot.  Around  it  is  this  inscription:  ^'- Hie 
de  Yirgine  Maria  Jesus  Cliristus  natus  esV 
"Here  Jesus  Christ  was  born  of  the  Virgin 
Mary."  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  grotto  is  a 
marble  manger  where  the  original  one  stood.  Most 
of  the  people  approach  upon  their  knees  and  kiss 
the  silver  star.  Among  them  is  our  Dragoman, 
who  thus  reveals  to  us  for  the  first  time  the  fact  that 
he  is  not  a  follower  of  Mahomet.  As  with  the  Holy 
Sepulchre,  lamps  of  gold  and  silver  are  hanging, 
in  which  lights  are  continually  burning  night  and 
day. 

Here  was  the  stable  where   Joseph  and  Mary 
lodged,  "  there  being  no  room  in  the   inn."     They 


284  BETHLEHEM. 

had  come  to  Bethleliem  at  a  time  wlien  it  was 
over  crowded  with  the  people,  whom  the  Emperor 
had  summoned  there  to  pay  their  taxes.  In  this 
humble  place  the  Child  Jesus  was  born,  who  was  to 
live  but  thirty-three  years,  yet  whose  life  was  to 
teach  the  way  of  salvation  to  the  world.  It  cannot 
be  other  than  interesting  for  the  christian  to'  look 
upon  this  hallowed  place. 

The  altar  of  the  Innocents,  and  the  room  where 
St.  Jerome  so  long  lived,  are  under  the  Church  of 
the  Nativity.  Returning  to  the  convent  we  find  that 
the  monks  have  prepared  a  comfortable  meal  which 
we  partake  of  with  much  relish. 

Looking  toward  the  east  we  see  the  plains  of 
Bethlehem  on  which  the  shepherds  were  watching 
their  flocks  by  night  when  the  Star  of  Bethlehem 
appeared  to  them ;  and  as  if  to  bring  that  scene 
more  forcibly  to  our  minds,  we  see  the  shepherds 
in  the  distance  crossing  the  plain  followed  by  flocks 
of  sheep  and  goats.  On  those  now  dry  and  ver- 
dureless  plains  Huth  gleaned  her  scanty  harvest  of 
grain. 


BETHLEHEM.  287 

It  is  three  hours  ride  to  Hebron  where  in  the 
cave  of  Machpelah  lie  Sarah  and  Abraham,  Leah 
and  Jacob,  Eebekah  and  Isaac  side  by  side.  Some 
of  our  company  go  down  to  the  Pools  of  Solomon. 

After  one  more  examination  of  the  interior  of  the 
Church  of  the  Nativity  at  Bethlehem,  in  the  course  of 
which  an  Arab  school  is  exhibited  which  is  attached 
to  the  convent,  we  return  to  our  horses.  Here  is 
a  motley  crowd,  some  begging  haksJnsh^  others 
endeavoring  to  sell  us  curiosities ;  for  an  extensive 
business  is  carried  on  among  the  Bethlehemites  who 
make  various  articles  from  the  mother  of  pearl 
brought  from  the  Red  Sea,  and  offer  them  for 
sale  to  Pilgrims.  We  ride  swiftly  out  of  the  city 
of  David,  and  urge  our  horses  over  the  shepherd's 
plain  to  Jerusalem. 

My  Christmas  days  will  ever  be  more  precious  as 
my  thoughts  revert  back  to  Bethlehem,  where 
Christmas  had  its  birth. 


CHAPTEH    XXXVII. 

THE    DEAD    SEA. 

^r^^i^-^OT  feeling  very  well  for  the  past  two    or 
(^-tm    three  days,   and  the  weather  being  warm, 
I  have  concluded  that  I  will  not  go  down 
to  the  Jordan  and  Dead  Sea,   but  remain 

with    our  kind  hostess.     Mr.   G will  tell  the 

story. 

Filing  out  of  the  east  gate  of  Jerusalem,  down 
into  the  Valley  of  Jehoshaphat,  by  the  Garden  of 
Gethsemane,  and  up  the  mount  of  Olives,  we  are 
soon  at  Bethany,  where  the  slieiks  who  had  been 
previously  engaged  in  Jerusalem,  and  who  were  to 
act  as  our  escort  and  guard  to  the  Jordan  country, 
came  riding  swiftly  around  the  village  to  meet  us. 
They  were  dressed  in  full  Bedouin  costume,  with 
brilliant  colored  Damascus  silk  huryions^  or  head- 


-:^       I 


llilll 

&  ft  k\|         f      %   %  , 


t,    1 


nmmm idmi:' i .  j:ii:iiiii,>?^^'''ilii' 


THE  DEAD  SEA.  291 

dress,  fastened  around  their  heads  with  a  heavy  silk 
cord.  In  their  girdles  were  any  number  of  pistols 
and  knives,  and  each  one  carried  a  long  firelock. 
They  were  mounted  upon  fine  horses,  and  as  they 
took  their  place  at  the  head  of  our  train  they  seem- 
ed possessed  with  the  feeling  that  their  position  was 
one  of  infinite  importance. 

Leaving  Bethany,  we  descended  the  rocky  sides 
of  a  mountain  for  a  half  an  hour,  until  we  came  to 
a  fountain  called  El  Haud^  which  is  upon  the  an- 
cient dividing  line  between  the  land  of  Benjamin 
and  Judah. 

As  the  sun  had  now  risen  high  in  the  heavens, 
and  shone  with  unusual  fierceness,  we  remained 
for  some  time  by  El  Saud^  where  Nijem  spread 
our  lunch  upon  the  ground  in  the  cool  shadow  of  a 
high  rock.  One  must  travel  in  the  east  to  realize 
the  blessing  "  of  the  shadow  of  a  great  rock  in  a 
weary  land."  Again  in  the  saddle,  we  commenced 
a  journey  of  seven  long  hours,  through  the  most 
desolate  tract  of  country  it  has  ever  been  my  lot  to 
behold.      Our  path  lay  along  the  stony  bed  of  some 


292      *"  THE  DEAD  SEA. 

stream,  tlirougli  narrow  defiles,  over  barren  bills, 
and  tlirougli  deep  gorges.  We  saw  no  sign  of  life 
except  two  eagles  wliicli  flew  from  a  liigli  cliff.  One 
of  the  xVrab  sheiks  fired  at  them,  but  missed  his 
aim.  Thej  calmly  soared  above  us  for  a  long  time, 
as  if  curious  to  know  for  what  reason  we  had  in- 
vaded their  domain. 

About  half  way  down  to  Jericho  are  the  remains 
of  an  old  stone  tower,  indicating  the  traditional 
scene  of  the  parable  of  the  good  Samaritan.  This 
is  the  wilderness  where  John  preached,  and  where 
Christ  ''fasted  forty  days  and  forty  nights."  As 
our  caravan  moved  over  the  last  mountain  before 
descending  to  the  plains  of  Gilgal,  the  path  lay 
close  to  the  edge  of  a  deep  gorge,  five  hundred 
feet  deep.  Down  in  this  is  the  brook  Cherith.  Near 
to  the  bottom  of  the  precipice  the  sides  of  the 
rocks  are  perforated  with  holes  or  caves.  It  was 
in  one  of  these  that  the  Prophet  Elijah  lived  when 
he  vf  as  fed  by  the  ravens  during  the  terrible  famine 
which  then  raged  in  Palestine.  In  later  years  we 
are  told  that  monks  who  wish  to  seclude  themselves 


THE  DEAD  SEA.  293 

from  the  ^Yorld,  secrete  tliemselves  in  tliese  caves 
and  end  tlieir  lives  in  loneliness. 

Descending  upon  tlie  plain,  we  rode  over  tlie 
ruins  of  ancient  Jericho.  All  that  can  be  seen  of 
that  once  mighty  city  is  a  small  portion  of  the  re- 
mains of  the  aqueduct.  The  wall  around  which 
the  priests  marched  seven  times,  and  blew  the 
rams'  horns,  is  level  with  the  ground.  The  amphi- 
theatre, where  the  wicked  Herod  paraded  himself 
dressed  in  his  royal  robes  before  the  people,  and 
the  house  of  Rahab,  where  she  concealed  the  spies 
from  Israel,  are  no  more.  Turning  to  the  north- 
ward, along  the  base  of  Quarantania,  we  halted  by 
the  fountain  of  Elisha.  These  waters,  which  were 
so  bitter  and  poisonous  before  the  prophet  healed 
them,  are  now  pure  and  wholesome.  Driving  the 
horses  into  the  water,  they  were  glad  to  take 
a  long  and  refreshing  draught  after  their  wearisome 
journey. 

Following  our  dragoman  and  sheiks  over  the 
plain,  we  pitched  our  camp  near  to  a  wretched 
Bedouin  village,  called  Riha.     At  one  •  and  a  half 


294  ^^^  DEAD  SEA. 

o'clock  in  the  morning  the  camp  is  aroused  and  we 
move  toward  the  Dead  Sea.  Traveling  over 
crusted  layers  of  sand  for  two  long  hours,  just  as 
the  first  rays  of  the  morning  sun  came  shooting  up 
over  the  mountains  of  Moab,  we  reach  the  greatest 
natural  wonder  of  the  globe.  All  the  stories  of  my 
youth  about  this  sea  came  rushing  vividly  upon  my 
mind.  It  is  supposed  to  cover  the  plains  where 
stood  the  cities  of  Sodom  and  Gomorrah,  being 
over  four  thousand  feet  below  Jerusalem,  and 
almost  one  thousand  three  hundred  feet  below  the 
level  of  the  sea.  It  is  the  lowest  point  on  the 
earth's  surface.  The  Jordan  and  other  streams 
empty  into  it,  but  no  outlet  has  ever  been  discov- 
ered. The  fish  that  float  down  out  of  the  Jordan 
as  soon  as  they  enter  the  Dead  Sea  die  and  come 
to  the  surface.  The  water  is  so  dense  that  nothing 
can  live  in  it. 

Stories  are  told  by  travelers,  that  birds  flying 
over  it  die  and  drop  into  the  water.  Poets  sing  of 
the  *' Dead  Sea  apple,"  which  is  fair  to  the  eye,  but 
as  soon  as  it  is  taken  into  the  hand  crumbles  to  ashes. 


THE  DEAD  SEA.  295 

We  are  soon  into  tlie  water,  and  find  tliat  we 
can  recline  upon  it  with  tlie  greatest  ease.  Even 
the  hand  or  foot  phmged  down  would  be  gently 
buoyed  to  the  surface  like  a  cork.  It  seemed  like 
being  upon  a  sea  of  glass,  and  the  pebbly  bottom 
could  be  seen  far  down  through  the  crystal  water. 
In  a  storm,  the  water  rolls  like  oil,  without  splashing. 

As  the  sun  arose,  a  more  dreary  waste  could  not 
be  imagined.  On  both  sides  the  sea  is  bounded  by 
high  walls  of  dull,  grey,  rugged  mountains,  and  a 
tree  or  shrub  of  any  kind  cannot  exist  near  its  waters. 
As  the  sun  rides  over  in  the  heavens,  its  reflection 
upon  the  water  has  the  peculiar  effect  of  changing 
the  hue  of  the  Dead  Sea  several  times.  We  came 
out  of  the  water  with  a  slio^ht  burnin£>:  and  smartino- 
of  the  flesh,  which  lasted  some  hours.  The  air  be- 
gan to  be  oppressive,  and  we  were  glad  to  get  away 
from  the  scene  of  desolation. 


CHAPTER    XXXYIII. 

RIYER    JORDAN. 

EFORE  the  sun  had  reached  its  zenith  we 
*i^f)l  arrive  at  the  Pilmm's  Ford  of  the  Hiyer 
Ti^^f   Jordan,  so  named  from  the  fact  of  its  being 
^"^     the  place  where  all  pilgrims  go  to  bathe. 
This  place  is  made  hallowed  by  many  sacred  as- 
sociations.    The  Holy   word  informs   us  that  the 
children  of  Israel  after  their  journey  of  forty  years 
in   the   wilderness   passed  over  into   the  land  of 
Canaan  ''right  against  Jericho."      At  this  ford  the 
waters  have  been  divided  three  times ;  first,  for  the 
passage  of  Israel ;  second,  when  Elijah  and  Elisha 
crossed  to  the  other  side  where  the  former  let  his 
mantle  fall  upon  the  latter,  and  ascended  to  Hea- 
ven; and  third,   for  the  return  of  Elisha.       Here 
Christ  was  baptized,  and  the  haughty  Naaman  was 
sent  to  dip  three  times. 


rdVER  JORDAN.  299 

Hither  come  pilgrims  once  a  year  in  great  num- 
bers to  bathe.  Our  dragoman  told  me  that  two 
years  before  he  saw  a  caravan  of  seventeen  thou- 
sand pilgrims  come  down  to  the  Jordan  and  plunge 
in. 

The  river  is  narrow  and  swift.  It  rises  in  the 
Anti-Lebanon  mountains,  and  flowing  down  through 
the  lake  of  Tiberias,  empties  into  the  Dead  Sea. 
Leaving  our  horses  in  charge  of  Nijem,  we  soon  go 
through  the  ceremony  of  dipping  three  times,  and  by 
wading  and  swimming  against  the  swift  current,  are 
soon  on  the  other  side.  Climbing  up  the  opposite 
bank  and  looking  back,  the  first  thoughts  that  came 
to  my  mind  were  of  the  hymn  which  I  had  many 
times  sung — 

"  Sweet  fields  beyond  the  swelling  flood 
Stand  dressed  in  living  green  ; 
So  to  the  Jews  old  Canaan  stood 
While  Jordan  rolled  between." 

I  shall  never  hear  that  hymn  sung  without  being 
carried  back  to  the  hour,  when  I  stood  "on 
the  other  side  of  Jordan."      To  the  east  lay  the 


300  RIVER  JORDAN. 

plain  where  the  children  of  Israel  were  so  long  en- 
camped, while  Moses  gave  them  the  Law ;  and  also 
Mount  Pisgah,  from  the  summit  of  v»'hich  Moses  was 
permitted*  to  view  the  promised  land  before  he 
died. 

Of  course  we  filled  our  cans  with  Jordan  water,  as 
every  j)i^oi'™  is  ex^DCcted  to  bring  some  home  with 
him. 

While  in  bathing  a  large  company  of  Bedouins 
came  down  the  opposite  bank  and  crossed  the 
stream.  The  train  of  camels  which  they  had  with 
them  being  able  to  easily  ford  the  river.  They  had 
come  from  the  mountains  east  and  were  on  their 
way  south  toward  Egypt.  Our  Dragoman  entered 
into  conversation  with  them  and  ascertained  that 
they  belonged  to  a  friendly  tribe.  They  pointed 
over  the  mountains,  and  said  that  a  battle  had 
taken  place  over  there  between  two  hostile  tribes 
of  Bedouins  three  days  before,  and  as  they  came  by 
many  of  the  slain  were  lying  upon  the  battle-field. 
Their  appearance  was  much  like  the  Camanche 
Indians  of  our  own  country  ;  and  we  were  not  dis- 


RIVER  JORDAN.  301 

pleased  when  we  saw  them  repack  their  camels,  and 
disappear  across  the  plains  toward  the  Dead  Sea. 

The  banks  of  the  river  Jordan  are  lined  with  a 
thick  growth  of  bushes,  and  among  them  grows  the 
celebrated  Balsam  tree,  which  was  considered  by 
the  ancient  nations  who  inhabited  this  country  to 
possess  a  medicinal  virtue  ;  and  we  are  told  that 
Anthony,  for  the  sake  of  the  tree,  made  a  present 
of  the  plains  of  the  Jordan  to  Cleopatra.  Here 
also  grows  the  luxuriant  Oleander  to  the  size  of  a 
tree.  The  heat  is  almost  unbearable  and  has  a  very 
enervating  effect.  We  slowly  return  to  the  camp 
where  we  stretch  ourselves  under  the  ^g  trees^ 
lying  with  our  handkerchiefs  wet  and  placed  upon 
our  heads,  while  one  of  the  company  reads  to  us 
the  story  of  the  crossing  of  the  children  of  Israel 
with  the  ark  of  the  covenant,  and  of  the  setting  up  of 
the  twelve  monumental  stones,  to  commemorate 
God's  goodness  in  dividing  the  waters  and  bringing 
the  Israelites  safely  into  the  land  of  Canaan. 

As  the  eye  sweeps  around  the  vast  and  desolate 
plain,  which  was  once  occupied  by  tramping  mil- 


302  RIVER  JORDAN. 

lions,  the  land  tliat  "  flowed  with  milk  and  honey," 
it  requires  no  stretch  of  the  imagination  to  realize 
that  the  curse  of  God  has  been  fulfilled.  On  the 
south  is  the  dreary  waste  of  the  Dead  Sea  ;  to  the 
west  are  the  barren  hills  of  Judea,  among  which 
can  be  seen  the  Mount  of  Temptation,  on  the  top 
of  which  Satan  offered  the  kingdoms  of  the  world 
to  the  Son  of  God  if  he  would  bow  down  and  wor- 
ship him ;  to  the  north  and  east  is  the  great  valley 
of  the  Jordan  and  the  land  of  Moab,  and  also  toward 
the  east  the  land  where  once  stood  the  "  Giant 
cities  of  Bashan." 

Meditating  upon  this  grand  and  solitary  scene, 
we  prepare  ourselves  for  the  last  night  upon  the 
plain  and  decide  to  start  at  daylight  for  Jerusalem. 


CHAPTER     XXXIX. 

BEDOUIN    ARABS. 

C ARCEL Y  had  we  fallen  asleep  before  we 
^^^%  were  awakened  by  a  wild  humming  sound 
outside  of  the  tents,  and  going  out  we  find 
^  about  a  dozen  Bedouin  Arabs  dancing  a 
war  dance  around  the  cook's  fire,  brandishing 
swords  which  they  carried  with  them,  and  making 
night  hideous  with  their  howling. 

Their  purpose  was  soon  made  known ;  they  de- 
manded haksliish  for  the  performance.  Passing 
around  the  hat  a  purse  was  made  up  for  them  and 
through  the  influence  of  the  sheiks  they  were  in- 
duced to  retire.  Their  voices  could  be  heard 
shouting  at  a  great  distance  as  they  went  away. 

No  sooner  had  we  laid  down  again  than  we  were 
as  quickly  disturbed  by  the  rapid  galloping  of  horse- 


3Q^  BEDOUIN  ARABS. 

men  into  the  camp.  They  were  friendly  Arabs  who 
came  to  notify  us  that  a  large  body  of  Bedouins  were 
in  the  vicinity.  By  firing  their  guns  they  roused  the 
inhabitants  of  the  little  village  of  Eiha  near  by, 
and  the  women  and  children  came  excitedly  into  an 
enclosure  adjoining  the  watch-tower.  On  the  top 
of  this  tower  a  fire  was  kindled,  which  illuminated 
the  darkness  for  miles  around.  It  was  less  than 
half  an  hour  from  the  arrival  of  the  Arabs  before 
the  inhabitants  of  E-iha  were  in  a  state  of  defense. 
Assured  that  under  these  circumstances  there  was 
little  chance  for  rest  this  night,  we  struck  camp 
and  long  before  morning  dawned,  were  ascending 
the  first  mountain  on  our  way  to  Jerusalem.  As 
we  were  threading  our  v/ay  over  the  rocks  a  stran- 
ger joined  our  caravan ;  and  soon  another,  and 
another,  until  several  savage  looking  Bedouins 
were  walking  barefooted  among  our  horses.  The 
only  garment  which  they  wore  was  a  coarse  heavy 
blanket  thrown  around  them,  but  each  was  well 
armed  with  gun  and  war  club. 

Not  a  word  was  spoken  by  any  one,   suddenly 


BEDOUIN  ARABS.  3  Q 5 

they  disappeared  in  tlie  darkness.  Once  more 
they  came  and  departed  in  the  same  mysterious 
manner.  After  which  we  could  hear  them  on  the 
hills  singing  their  wild  Arabic  songs  and  calling  to 
one  another. 

Our  path  was  for  a  half  a  mile  through  a  deep 
gorge,  and  when  near  the  darkest  part  guns  were 
fired  over  our  heads.  As  we  came  out  on  the 
other  side  of  the  mountain,  these  savages  rushed 
down  upon  us  with  a  yell  resembling  an  Indian 
war  whoop,  catching  the  horses  bridles  they  said 
we  had  gold,  and  must  give  it  to  them  or  they 
would  take  it  from  us.  Our  sheiks  now  sprang  for- 
ward to  the  front,  when  there  commenced  a  series 
of  manoeuvres  which  lasted  several  minutes,  and  if 
they  were  not  dangerous,  they  were  certainly  in- 
teresting to  us,  who  calmly  waited  to  see  the  result. 

They  would  talk  and  gesticulate  in  the  most  vio- 
lent manner,  and  often  place  the  muzzles  of  their 
guns  close  to  each  other's  heads  as  if  to  fire,  then 
put  them  down,  and  again  with  swords  and  war 
clubs  dash  up  to   one    another.     The    conflict  ap- 


306  BEDOUIN  ARAB!;. 

peared  on  tlie  verge  of  commencing  several  times. 
After  this  exciting  wrangle  had  continued  for  some 
time  the  robbers  slowly  retreated  back  into  the  moun- 
tains and  we  were  allowed  to  proceed.  The  j)roba- 
bilitj  is  that  many  of  these  demonstrations  are  gotten 
up  for  the  purpose  of  extorting  money  from  travel- 
ers without  the  intent  of  murder  or  violence.  Al- 
lowing this  to  be  tiue,  I  will  venture  the  assertion, 
that,  if  we  had  not  outnumbered  them,  and  been 
too  well  armed,  they  would  have  appropriated  to 
their  own  use  what  little  spare  change  we  had  with 
us,  even  if  they  had  been  compelled  to  resort  to  a 
dishonorable  method  to  obtain  it. 

The  Bedouin  Arabs  live  in  small  villages,  or  wan- 
der in  caravans  making  their  abode  wherever  night 
overtakes  them.  Their  wealth  generally  consists 
in  the  number  of  camels,  horses,  sheep,  or  goats 
which  they  possess.  They  divide  themselves  into 
tribes  and  these  frequently  attack  one  another  with 
great  •  fury,  sometimes  from  one  cause  and  some- 
times from  another,  and  when  it  is  for  the  purpose 
of  robbery  the  victorious  party  will   drive  off  with 


BEDOUIN  ARABS.  307 

tliem  all  the  flocks  belonging  to  the  defeated  tribe. 
They  are  splendid  horsemen.  They  generally  ride 
upon  a  gallop,  and  they  can  fire  their  guns  witi 
great  precision,  although  going  at  full  speed. 

Their  women  are  made  to  do  the  drudgery,  and 
are  the  slaves  of  the  men.  They  paint  and  tatoo 
their  faces,  making  themselves  as  hideous  as  the 
South  Sea  Islanders. 

The  Bedouin  Arab  often  thinks  more  of  his  horse 
than  of  his  wife.  Give  him  a  piece  of  bread  and  he 
will  share  it  with  his  horse.  These  animals  are 
small,  graceful,  and  kind,  and  when  going  fast 
always  gallop,  as  they  are  never  trained  to  trot. 

The  Turkish  government  have  not  much  control 
over  these  people,  excepting  those  along  the  sea- 
coast. 

I  was  informed  that  the  only  way  the  Sultan 
could  collect  the  taxes  from  the  various  tribes  in- 
habiting the  country  east  of  the  Dead  Sea  and 
mountains  of  Moab,  was  to  send  among  them  an 
army  to  take  possession  of  whatever  they  could 
find;  principally  camels  and  horses,  which  they 
would  drive  to  the  cities  along  the  sea-coast. 


308  BEDOUIN  ARABS. 

Pteacliing  the  fountain  of  El  Hand,  we  toiled  up 
tiie  mountain  to  Bethany,  where  we  discharged  our 
escort,  and  spurring  our  jaded  horses  around  the 
southern  crest  of  the  Mount  of  Olives,  the  Holy  City 
came  again  in  sight.  On  the  mountains  round 
about  could  be  seen  the  camps,  not  of  the  Roman 
army,  but  of  the  Quaker  City  Pilgrims,  who  now 
began  to  arrive  in  small  companies  from  the  differ- 
ent parts  of  Palestine. 


j;^ 


CHAPTER     XL. 

r 

RETURN    TO    THE    SHIP. 

^^  0-DAY,  Miss  B and  myself  are  seated 

in  the  door  of  our  tent,  bargaining  with 
the  sellers  of  curiously  wrought  articles 
of  olive-wood  and  pearl.  They  are  Arabs 
who  have  come  out  of  the  city  to  dispose  of  their 
wares,  and  are  extremely  persistent  in  their  efforts 
to  trade.  One  aged  Arab  is  offering  for  sale  some 
tiny  goblets,  which  he  declares  are  made  from  an 
olive  tree  cut  from  the  Mount  of  Olives ;  and  to 
prevent  our  disbelief  in  his  story,  produces  a  writ- 
ten statement,  bearing  th^  stamp  and  seal  of  some 
consul,  to  the  purport  that  we  might  believe  any 
thing  which  the  bearer  asserted.  Suffice  to  say, 
we  made  selections  of  his  goods,  and  he  left, 
bestowing  a  plenitude  of  good  will  and  wishes 
upon  us. 


310  RETURN  TO  THE  SHIP. 

One  after  anotlier  of  the  Pilgrim  caraps  vanish, 
as  the  time  has  come  for  them  to  be  marching  to 
the  sea,  Nijem  has  given  the  order  that  we  must  be 
in  readiness  at  daylight.  We  make  one  more  trip 
through  the  city,  and  around  outside  of  the  walls. 
The  following  morning,  as  the  first  rays  of  morning 
light  dawned  over  Mount  Olivet,  we  turn  upon 
our  horses,  and  take  a  farewell  look  of  the  City  of 
the  Great  King  —  the  city  where  were  enacted 
such  thrilling  events  at  the  commencement  of  the 
Christian  era  —  the  central  figure  being  Christ, 
about  which  the  great  Jewish  historian  makes  men- 
tion in  these  words : 

"  Now,  there  was  about  this  time  Jesus,  a  wise 
man,  if  it  be  lawful  to  call  him  a  man,  for  he  was  a 
doer  of  wonderful  works  —  a  teacher  of  such  men 
as  receive  the  truth  with  pleasure.  He  drew  over 
to  him  both  many  of  the  Jews  and  many  of  the 
Gentiles.  He  was  [the]  Christ ;  and  when  Pilate,  at 
the  suggestion  of  the  principal  men  amongst  us, 
had  condemned  him  to  the  cross,  those  that  loved 
him  at  the  first  did  not  forsake  him,  for  he  appeared 


RETURN  TO  THE  SHIP.  ^l\ 

to  tliem  alive  again  the  tliird  day,  as  tlie  divine 
prophets  had  foretold,  these  and  ten  thousand  other 
wonderful  things  concerning  him ;  and  the  tribe 
of  Christians,  so  named  from  him,  are  not  extinct 
to  this  day." 

As  we  bid  adieu  to  Palestine,  I  will  record  the 
lesson  which  I  have  learned. 

It  is  a  rocky  and  desolate  land.  The  inhabitants 
are  poor  and  deprived  of  the  advantages  of  the 
society  and  refinement  which  exist  under  the 
more  civilized  governments  of  the  world:  but  a 
visit  to  this  country  cannot  fail  to  stamp  upon  the 
mind  of  the  pilgrim  the  truth  of  the  Bible.  When- 
ever a  description  of  a  place,  or  location  of  a  valley, 
mountain,  hill,  or  city  is  mentioned  in  the  Holy 
Word,  by  comparison  and  examination  the  truth 
of  the  statement  will  be  verified.  Many  things 
have  thus  been  explained  to  my  mind,  which  I  have 
never  understood  before. 

"Two  women  shall  be  grinding  at  a  mill;  the 
one  shall  be  taken,  and  the  other  left."  "  Two  shall 
be  upon  the  house  top."     "The  shepherd  goeth 


312  RETURN  TO  THE  SHIP. 

before  his  sheep,  and  the  sheep  follow  him,  for  thej 
know  his  voice."  All  these  passages  of  scripture, 
and  many  more,  are  illnstrated  by  the  manners  and 
customs  of  the  people,  which  are  the  same  now  as 
they  were  thousands  of  years  ago ;  and  if  I  had 
never  been  a  believer  in  the  sacred  Word,  I  am 
sure  that  I  should  leave  Jerusalem  with  a  firm  con- 
viction of  the  truth  of  the  story  of  Christ,  and  the 
Christian  religion. 

We  are  once  more  on  board  our  floating  home, 
and  it  is  pleasant  to  see  the  sun-browned  faces  of 
the  Pilgrims,  as  they  return  from  their  long  and 
arduous  journeyings.  Some  of  the  ladies  are  pretty 
well  tired  out,  and  express  themselves  satisfied  that 
they  have  reached  the  ship  where  they  can  rest. 
I  am  confident  that  our  ship  never  looked  so  inviting 
to  me  as  it  now  does  upon  my  return  from  the  pil- 
grimage. There  have  been  no  mishaps  and  no 
deaths,  therefore  no  faces  are  missing. 

Our  ship's  company  is  enlarged  by  the  addition 
of  most  of   the  Jaffa   colonists,   who   have    made 


RETURN  TO  THE  SHIP  3|3 

arrangements  to  go  on  our  steamer  to  Egypt,  and 
from  there  sliijD  to  Southampton.  Ere  this,  I  pre- 
sume they  have  reached  America,  wiser  and  better 
people. 

Our  course  was  now  toward  Alexandria,  Egypt, 
which  we  reached  in  two  days. 

How  quickly  all  are  on  deck  to  get  the  first  view 
of  the  city  founded  by  Alexander  the  Great  —  the 
most  important  sea-port  of  the  Mediterranean. 
Taking  a  pilot  on  board,  our  steamer  is  guided  up 
the  narrow  and  dangerous  channel. 

As  we  near  the  level  and  sandy  shores,  the 
Viceroy's  palace  and  the  Pillar  of  Diocletian  appear 
in  the  distance. 

The  light  of  day  fades  away  and  the  stars  come 
out  one  by  one,  as  we  glide  among  the  ships  of  all 
nations  and  let  go  the  anchor  near  to  an  Egyptian 
man-of-war.  Around  us  are  hundreds  of  lights 
sparkling  and  dancing  upon  the  waters. 


CHAPTER    XLI. 

EGYPT. 

£^  GYPTIAN    donkeys  and   boys,   both  about 
/ui^fv     the  same  heis^ht,    are    our   first   introduc- 
W'^M     tion    to    Alexandria.       There    is   such    a 
^^     swarm  of  them  we  can  hardly  land      The 
boys  are   shouting  vociferously,    "  Good  donkey ! 
fine  donkey!    have  a  ride."     These  little  animals 
are  the  most  important  conveyance  in  the  city.     At 
every  turn  they  come  trotting  or  jumping  along 
with  their  heavy  burdens,  while  the  boys  are  run- 
ning behind,  and  urging  them  forward  with  blows 
and  shouts. 

There  is  no  time  to  be  wasted,  and  we  proceed 
at  once  to  explore  the  city.  There  is  something 
invigorating  in  the  life  and  stir  around  us  after  our 
long  and  tiresome  journey. 


EGYPT.  315 

In  tlie  center  of  tlie  city  is  the  '-'  Esbehiyeli^^^  or 
square,  filled  with  trees.  Around  this  runs  a  broad 
street  lined  with  banking-houses,  and  shops  whose 
windows  are  filled  with  European  goods. 

The  ancient  Pillar  of  Diocletian,  or  Pompey's 
Pillar,  stands  now  outside  of  the  walls  of  the  city ; 
but  the  spot  was  once  the  center  of  Alexandria.  It 
is  over  ninety  feet  high,  and  was  erected  in  the 
third  century,  in  honor  of  Diocletian.  This  column 
is  formed  of  one  immense  block  of  red  Egyptian 
granite,  a  stone  on  which  time  makes  but  little  im- 
pression. 

The  Catacombs  well  reward  the  investigation  of 
the  curious  antiquary.  Many  of  these  tombs  have 
been  opened  and  divested  of  their  contents.  In 
them  have  been  discovered  relics  which  date  back 
thousands  of  years.  The  Catacombs  of  Egypt  are 
more  vast  in  extent  than  any  in  the  world.  The 
most  ancient  are  those  of  the  Kings  of  Thebes.  It 
is  believed  that  the  Egyptians  spent  such  sums  of 
money  upon  embalming  and  upon  magnificent 
sepulchres,   because  they  had  faith  in  the  literal 


316  EGYPT. 

resurrection  of  tlie  body,  if  it  were  preserved  from 
decay.  The  richest  and  costliest  of  the  catacombs 
are  completely  covered  in  their  interior  by  sculp 
tured  hieroglyphics,  and  by  paintings  in  fresco 
which,  when  found  free  from  the  desecrations  of 
the  Arabs,  "  are  as  fresh  as  if  laid  on  but  yester- 
day," and  the  colors  are  extremely  brilliant, 
although  thousands  of  years  old.  The  sculptures 
.  and  the  frescoes  represent  all  the  scenes  of  Egyp- 
tian history,  as  well  as  their  ceremonies  and  cus- 
toms, from  the  coronation  of  a  monarch  to  a  child 
among  his  toys. 

The  entrances  to  the  catacombs  of  Thebes  are 
simply  by  a  gate,  in  a  square  frame  which  surrounds 
the  subterranean  opening.  You  descend  first  into 
one  vast  area  filled  with  chambers  containing  the 
stone  cofiins  of  the  mummies,  then  far  into  another, 
and  then  again  into  still  lower  deeps  among  the 
dead  of  ages  ago.  "  The  entire  chain  of  mountains 
in  the  neighborhood  of  Thebes,"  says  one  writer, 
"is  mined  by  an  immense  number  of  catacombs. 
It  is  calculated  that  during  the  ages  when  the  art 


EGYPT.  317 

of  mummification  was  known  and  practiced,  not  less 
than  400,000,000  of  mummies  were  entombed  in 
the  Egyptian  catacombs!" 

This,  not  of  Egypt  entire,  but  of  one  single  city 
of  Egypt.  The  catacombs  of  Rome  have  never  yet 
been  fully  explored ;  but  it  is  said  that  many  of 
them  were  made  long  before  the  Eome  of  Romulus 
and  Remus,  and  that  all  the  Seven  Hills  are  honey- 
combed  with  passages,  dark  corridors,  and  galleries, 
where  the  sunshine  never  enters. 

Here  we  see  evidences  of  the  early  history  of  the 
world,  for  no  land  has  such  a  historical  record  as 
Egypt.  It  is  the  country  where  lived  the  builders 
of  the  Pyramids,  where  dwelt  the  Pharaohs,  and 
where  Jacob  visited  his  long  lost  son  Joseph ;  the 
land  from  which  the  children  of  Israel  marched 
forth  from  their  oppressors,  and  the  country  to 
which  Joseph  and  Mary  fled  with  the  infant  Christ. 

Cleopatra's  Needles,  another  monument  of  the 
ancient  splendor  of  Egypt,  is  standing  in  Alexan> 
dria.  There  were  two,  standing  side  by  side.  One 
of  them  was  presented  by  the  Pacha  some  years 


318  EGYPT. 

ago  to  England,  and  the  attempt  was  made  to  con- 
vey it  to  Trafalgar  Square,  London.  They  suc- 
ceeded in  lowering  it  to  the  ground,  where  it  lies 
buried  in  the  sand  to  this  day.  It  is  truly  wonder- 
ful how  these  great  pillars  and  blocks  of  stone  in 
Ephesus,  Baalbec,  Jerusalem,  and  Egypt,  were 
moved  to  the  positions  where  they  now  are.  Many 
of  them  are  monoliths  —  solid  squares  of  stone  or 
marble,  fifty  to  sixty  feet  in  length,  and  ten  to 
fifteen  feet  in  diameter,  weighing  thousands  of  tons. 
These  great  blocks  in  some  cases  were  chiseled 
from  the  quarries  and  carried  hundreds  of  miles, 
then  were  lifted  into  walls  or  posited  upon  pedestals 
at  a  considerable  elevation  from  the  ground.  Have 
not  some  of  the  arts  of  the  world  known  to  former 
generations  passed  away?  At  the  present  time, 
with  all  the  science,  skill,  and  machinery  known  to 
man,  these  enormous  weights  could  scarcely  be 
moved. 

The  Obelisk  standing  is  of  the  same  material  as 
Pompey's  Pillar,  and  covered  with  hieroglyphics. 
It  is  over  seventy  feet  in  height.     These  needles 


EGYPT.  319 

are  supposed  to  have  been  brought  by  one  of  the 
Cfesars  from  the  city  of  Heliopolis.  The  position 
which  they  now  occupy  was  in  front  of  Cagsar's 
palace,  and  they  were  called  Cleopatra's  needles  in 
honor  of  the  Egyptian  Queen. 

We  have  ridden  around  the  city,  and  along  the 
banks  of  the  Nile,  passing  many  beautiful  gardens 
filled  with  date  and  banana  trees  with  luxuriant 
bunches  of  the  delicious  fruit  ripening  upon  them. 

The  Egyptian  dates  are  the  finest  we  have  found. 
They  grow  exceedingly  large,  and  form  an  impor- 
tant article  of  export.  On  the  banks  of  the  Nile 
are  large  numbers  of  the  fellaheen^  employed  in 
various  ways.  At  one  time  we  make  our  way  amid 
camels  with  their  wide-spreading  loads,  and  anon 
trains  of  donkeys  on  which  are  panniers  filled  with 
grass  or  bearing  goat-skins  full  of  water.  Wells 
are  far  less  common  in  the  East  than  with  us,  and 
water-carriers  are  in  constant  demand.  They  fre- 
quently bear  picturesque  vases  of  water  strapped  to 
their  backs.  These  have  a  spout  near  the  handles 
of  the  vase,   and  when  the  carrier  wishes  to  fill  a 


320  EGYPT. 

cup  or  other  vessel,  lie  stoops  forward  and  the 
cup  is  soon  filled.  The  forms  of  some  of  these 
vases  have  not  materially  changed  for  ages. 

Women  and  boys  are  trudging  along  carrying 
dates.  Many  of  the  women  convey  their  children 
upon  their  shoulders,  the  child  holding  fast  to  its 
mother's  head  to  steady  itself,  while  older  ones  will 
balance  themselves  in  this  position,  looking  around 
quite  unconcerned.  A  different  mode  of  treating 
the  infant  prevails  in  Italy.  There  it  is  secured  to 
a  pillow,  looking  much  like  a  mummy,  or  bound  to 
a  board  and  carried  on  the  mother's  back,  or  hung 
upon  a  tree  while  she  works  in  the  fields. 

The  Egyptian  women  are  in  the  habit  of  carrying 
burdens  on  their  heads,  which  gives  them  a  straight 
and  lofty  carriage.  Their  greatest  care  is  to  con- 
ceal their  faces. 

One  is  not  surprised  that  i)lagues  sweep  over 
this  land  with  such  terrible  fury,  when  he  observes 
the  extreme  want  of  cleanliness  which  exists  among 
the  people.  The  children  often  have  but  one  rag- 
ged article  of  clothing  about  them,  the  upper  part 


EGYPT.  321 

of  the  body  being  entirely  exposed  to  the  sun  and 

Sirocco  winds.     It  is  not  uncommon  to  see  females 

similarly  clothed. 

Many  of  the  streets  of  Alexandria  are  extremely 

narrow,  and  the  houses  are  built  over  the  streets, 

each  story  projecting  over  the  one  below,  so  that 

.    the  tops  nearly  meet.     This  makes  the  streets  cool, 

as  they  are  thus  protected  from  the  sun's  rays.    The 

windows  are  latticed  in  lieu  of  glass.     In   some 

places  old  pieces  of  matting  or  canvass  are  put  up 

under  which  the  people   collect.     Here  they  are 

sheltered  from  the  sun  while  they  smoke,  talk,  and 

sleep, 
J. 

The  money-changers  are  walking  along  with  a 
bag  of  francs  in  one  hand  and  Egyptian  silver  pieces 
in  the  other,  which  they  chink  and  toss  in  the  air ; 
meanwhile  calling  to  the  people  to  know  if  they 
wish  their  money  changed. 


CHAPTER   XLII. 

LEAVING    THE    PILGRIMS. 

(^^  SMAEL  Pacha,  the  Khe-dive  of  Egypt,  rules 
»r^|j  nearly  four  millions  of  people.  His  govern- 
ment is  an  absolute  monarchy  like  that  of 
the  Sultan,  to  whom  he  reports  once  a  year. 
He  is  much  more  liberal  in  his  views  than  the  Sul- 
tan and  is  more  ready  to  introduce  and  adopt  the 
manners  and  customs  of  more  civilized  nations 
Thus  in  Egypt  we  see  railroads  and  manufactories 
running  by  steam.  Machinery  of  the  most  ap- 
proved kinds  is  now  being  brought  to  Egypt,  and 
before  many  years  Alexandria  bids  fair  to  rank  in 
enterprise  and  commerce  among  the  first  cities  of 
the  world. 

In  appearance  the  Viceroy  is  dark  and  somewhat 
lighter  built  than  the  Sultan.     His  face  wears  a  look 


LEAVING  THE  PILGRIMS.  325 

of  considerable  intelligence  and  activitj.  He 
wears  the  inevitable  fez  and  a  European  suit  of 
black. 

Mr.  G lias  been  fortunate  enougli  to  obtain 

permission  to  visit  tlie  Viceroy's  palace.  It  is  a 
large,  highly  decorated  and  showy  structure.  Ad- 
joining is  the  Harem.  Many  of  the  rooms  in  the 
palace  are  so  richly  adorned  in  Oriental  style,  that 
they  strikingly  remind  one  of  the  deeds  of  good 
genii  in  the  Arabian  Nights.  At  almost  every 
door,  we  pass  a  Nubian  guard.  We  are  informed 
that  the  Viceroy  selects  these  Nubians  for  the  most 
trusty  positions  for  the  reason  that  they  make  more 
faithful  servants  than  the  native  Egyptians. 

In  a  large  square  belonging  to  the  palace  are 
several  companies  of  soldiers,  dressed  in  bright 
zouave  uniforms  and  going  through  with  their  daily 
drill.  In  one  of  the  rooms  of  the  court  building 
we  witnessed  the  trial  of  several  prisoners  for  petty 
crimes.  Each  culprit  was  brought  in  by  an  armed 
guard  and  placed  before  the  high  officer  or  judge, 
who  was  sitting  cross-legged  upon  a  broad  crimson 


326  LEAVING  THE  PILGRIMS. 

divan.  The  coffee  and  pipe  was  often  handed  to 
him  during  his  arduous  hibor.  Yv^ithout  scarcely 
lifting  his  eyes  to  the  prisoner  he  would  silently  lis- 
ten to  the  recounting  of  his  crime  by  witnesses. 
After  which  in  a  few  words  he  would  pronounce 
the  sentence,  when  the  unfortunate  criminal  would 
be  hurried  away  by  the  soldiers,  and  another  brought 
to  take  his   place. 

The  Viceroy  frequently  goes  out  to  ride  in  a 
splendid  European  carriage  which  he  keeps  for  his 
ostentatious  use.  A  loud  cracking  of  a  whip  and 
the  shouting  of  a  groom  announce  to  the  dispersing 
crowd  the  approach  of  the  Magnate.  Several 
gaudily  dressed  horsemen  go  prancing  by,  followed 
by  the  Pacha  seated  in  his  luxurious  carriage  drawn 
by  six  fine  Arabian  horses.  After  which  follow 
other  horsemen  which  complete  the  retinue. 

With  eager  steps  the  Pilgrims  now  press  forward 
to  the  Pyramids,  Cairo  "the  city  of  Victory,"  and 
other  places.  Two  have  decided  to  return  to 
America  by  the  way  of  Marseilles,  and  have 
already  left  on  a  French  steamer.      One  has  sailed 


LEAVING  THE  PILGRIMS.  327 

for  Southampton,  and  two  more  have  already  gone 
to  Constantinople.  We  have  determined  to  change 
the  route  of  our  journey,  and  instead  of  accompany- 
ing the  Quaker  City  to  Valencia,  Spain,  as  our  pas- 
sage ticket  entitles  us  to  do,  we  have  concluded 
to  bid  good-bye  to  our  friends  and  sail  for  Corfu  as 
we  wish  to  see  more  of  the  continent  of  Europe 
before  we  return. 

One  of  the  Austrian  Lloyd  steamers  is  anchored 
near  us,  and  is  about  to  sail  for  Corfu.  X\q  row 
out  to  her  to  get  an  idea  of  her  accommodations 
and  are  greatly  pleased  with  her  appearance. 
She  is  an  elegant  new  iron  steamship,  and  su- 
perbly fitted  up,  besides  being  extremely  neat 
pjkI  comfortable.  We  return  to  the  shore  and  at 
the  office  of  the  steamship  company  engage  our 
passage  on  the  Apollo. 

In  parting  from  the  Quaker  City^  which  has 
been  our  floating  home  for  months,  I  have  only 
the  pleasantest  of  recollections.  My  lady  friends 
of  the  party  I  shall  certainly  remember  with  the 
kindest    regard.     They    have  been    obliging    and 


328  LEAVING  THE  PILGRIMS. 

courteous,  and    the    time    spent  in  their    society 
has  been  veiy  pleasant  indeed. 

There  might  readily  be  given  reasons  for  and 
against  so  large  a  company  traveling  over  the 
world  together ;  but  while  we  have  been  with 
the  Pilgrims  in  the  East  tne  time  has  passed 
away  pleasantly  and  profitably.  To  be  sure  the 
Quaker  City  was  not  loaded  with  a  gay  and  giddy 
throng.  They  were  mostly  persons  of  middle  age 
gathered  from  various  parts  of  America,  and  as  a 
general  thing  intelligent,  aspiring  for  information, 
and  accustomed  to  wealth  and  refinement. 

It  is  full  as  well  for  one  to  be  considerate  while 
wanderino:  over  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  cities  of 
the  world,  and  walking  amid  the  sacred  places  of 
Christianity  ;  however,  I  think  none  of  the  voyagers 
will  ever  look  back  upon  their  journey  with  re- 
gret, even  though  the  great  excursion  bears  the 
stamp  of  sobriety  and  moderation. 

After  the  final  leave  takin^^  we  are  soon  on  board 
the  AjJoUo  bound  for  Corfu. 


CHAPTER    XLIII. 

THE    VOYAGE. 

LEEPING  soundly    and  sweetly    all  night, 

>7f^  I  arose  early  and  looked  out  of  the  state- 

^  room   window.     The   sun   was  just  rising 

out  of  the   beautiful  blue   waters  of  the 

Mediterranean.      Afar  off  on  the  waves  the  early 

sunlight  is  dancing  and  flashing,  spreading  a  golden 

lustre  upon  the  bosom  of  the  deep. 

We  have  coffee  at  seven  and  breakfast  at  ten 
o'clock. 

The  passengers  all  appear  strange  to  us.  They 
are  composed  of  Egyptians,  Turks,  Greeks,  and  a 
few  from  India  on  their  way  to  Germany  and  Eng- 
land. I  formed  an  acquaintance  with  a  very  esti- 
mable and  cultured  India  lady,  who  is  going  on  a 
visit  to  Germany  in  company  with  her  husband  and 
child.     She  took  much  interest  in  explaining  to  me 


330  THE  VOYAGE. 

the  manners  and  customs  of  the  people  of  India,  also 
giving  us  valuable  information  about  the  missionary 
work  there.  I  was  much  interested  in  her  descrip- 
tion of  their  passage  through  the  Red  Sea.  The 
weather  was  intensely  warm,  seriously  affecting  the 
passengers  and  resulting  in  the  death  of  one,  a  not 
unusual  circumstance  on  the  passage. 

A  young  couple  who  had  been  recently  married  in 
Bombay,  had  taken  passage  on  the  same  steamer. 
They  were  going  to  Austria  to  see  the  relatives 
of  the  groom,  whom  he  had  not  seen  for  many 
years. 

The  groom  was  suddenly  taken  ill  and  died. 
After  a  few  simple  ceremonies,  amid  the  gloom  of 
the  ship  and  the  heart-rending  grief  of  the  bride, 
the  body  was  lowered  into  the  deep. 

There  was  much  sympathy  manifested  among 
the  passengers  for  the  beautiful  but  unfortunate 
India  bride. 

"  TTeep  for  the  life-charm  early  flown, 
The  spirit  broken,  bleeding  and  alone." 

A  generous   collection  was  taken   up  and  pre- 


THE  VOYAGE.  332 

sented  her,  and  every  possible  assistance  was  ren- 
dered her  by  the  voyagers. 

To-day  is  a  charming  one  on  land  and  sea;  and 
as  we  glide  along  close  to  the  island  of  Candia  every 
little  while  one  of  the  Turkish  blockading  fleet 
conies  in  sight. 

The  lofty  mountains  of  the  island  are  on  our  right 
in  which  are  secreted  the  noble  Cretans  who  have 
battled  so  long  and  suffered  so  much  for  their 
liberty.  We  sweep  swiftly  by  the  island  of  Cerigo, 
and  by  Navarino  where  the  great  naval  battle  was 
fought  between  the  Turks  and  English;  pass  the 
islands  of  Zante  and  Cephalonia,  and  the  next  day 
at  ten  o'clock,  rounding  the  high  rocky  point  on 
which  stands  an  old  Roman  fort,  we  sighted  the  city 
of  Corfu. 

The  fort  is  hewn  out  of  solid  rock,  and  looks  pic- 
turesque, being  completely  overgrown  with  vines 
and  shrubs. 

The  island  of  Corfu  is  one  of  the  largest  in  the 
Ionian  sea.  It  is  thickly  populated  and  has  an 
abundance  of  fruit.     The  oranges  are  exceedingly 


332  '^HE  VOYAGE. 

fine.*  Here  we  have  a  refreshing  shower  of  7'ain ; 
the  first  which  we  have  seen  for  over  ^\q  months. 

From  Corfu  we  sail  through  the  Adriatic  Sea  for 
Trieste,  Austria.  For  a  long  distance  the  shore 
presents  a  peculiar  appearance.  Mountains  of  rock 
rise  perpendicular  to  a  great  height  out  of  the  sea. 

The  v/eather  is  changing  rapidly  as  we  steam  to 
the  northward,  and  the  light  clothing  adapted  to  the 
Egyptian  climate  must  be  laid  aside,  and  thick  warm 
garments  substituted,  as  we  near  the  colder  latitude 
of  Austria. 

We  are  soon  out  of  sight  of  land.  For  two  days 
and  nights  our  splendid  steamer  has  been  struggling 
in  the  Adriatic.  The  storm  has  been  fearful.  It  is 
the  time  of  the  year  our  captain  informs  us  when 
the  Borea  sweeps  down  from  the  Alpine  mountains 
upon  the  Adriatic  sea  with  terrible  fury.  Great 
foaming  waves  would  wash  over  the  steamer,  carry- 
ing away  anything  not  strongly  secured  to  the  deck. 
The  passengers  are  compelled  to  remain  in  their 
berths  below  and  hold  on  firmly  to  keep  themselves 
from  being   dashed  to    and  fro.       The  pilots  are 


THE  VOYAGE.  333 

lashed  to  the  wheel,  and  the  loud  roar  of  the  hurri- 
cane through  the  rigging  drowns  ever  other  sound. 

The  Adriatic  is  noted  for  these  gales.  On  the 
morning  of  the  sixth  day  after  leaving  Egypt  our 
staunch  steamer  plowed  her  way  into  the  harbor  of 
Trieste. 

Coming  safely  through  such  a  terrific  gale  leads 
me  to  notice  how  well  adapted  and  constructed 
these  powerful  iron  steamships  are  for  trying  service 
on  the  sea.  Whole  fleets  of  them  are  already  in 
possession  of  Austria,  Egypt,  and  even  Turkey. 
My  own  great  country  with  all  its  immense  resour- 
ces is  far  inferior  in  its  ocean  service. 

Taking  rooms  at  the  Locanda  Grande  we  are  glad 
once  more  to  be  on  terra  firma,  after  ^yq  days 
sailing.  Again  we  are  among  a  people  who  dress 
in  European  style.  It  seems  strange  not  to  see  and 
hear  the  clamor  of  the  turbaned  Turks  and  Arabs  to 
whom  we  have  become  so  accustomed. 

In  the  large    square  fronting    our  hotel  is  the 

'  statue  of  Charles  the  Sixth,  and  a  curious  fountain. 

Near  by  is  the  market  square  in  which  are  two  or 


334  ^^^  VOYAGE. 

three  hundred  men  and  women  with  stands  in  front  of 
them,  on  which  are  placed  scales,  as  all  the  fruits  and 
vegetables  are  sold  by  weight. 

The  women  wear  short  petticoats,  and  kerchiefs 
about  their  heads,  and  are  quite  tidy  and  neat. 

Trieste  is  the  most  important  Austrian  city  on 
the  Adriatic.  It  is  a  fine  commercial  port,  and  has 
an  extensive  canal,  large  enough  to  admit  ordinary 
vessels,  which  penetrates  to  the  heart  of  the  city. 
We  give  the  Exchange,  Opera-house,  and  Catholic 
Cathedral  a  call.  The  latter  has  some  very  fine 
paintings. 

To-day  a  feeling  of  sadness  comes  over  me,  like 
a  cloud  in  the  calm  clear  sky.  I  am  thinking  of 
home.  It  is  the  sixth  anniversary  of  my  dear 
sister's  death — the  first  that  I  have  missed  placing 
my  tribute  of  flowers  upon  her  grave. 

The  castle  of  Miramar,  the  residence  of  the  late 
Emperor  Maximilian,  stands  just  out  of  Trieste,  ad- 
mirably situated  upon  the  shore  of  the  Adriatic.  It 
is  a  very  handsome  place  with  extensive  grounds. 

The  castle  is  partly  closed  and  left  in  care  of  the 


THE  VOYAGE.  335 

servants,  as  the  Empress  Carlotta  is  staying  with  her 
sister  in  Belgium. 

The  people  here  speak  in  praise  of  the  unfortu- 
nate Maximilian.  Evidently  he  was  a  much  greater 
favorite  with  the  Austrians  than  his  brother  the  pre- 
sent Emperor  Francis  Joseph. 


18 


m 


CHAPTER    XLIY. 

CAVE    OF    ADELSBERG. 

^HE  early  morning  train  brings  us  from 
Trieste,  along  the  shore  of  the  Adriatic, 
and  through  the  mountains  and  valleys 
of  Styria,  to  the  little  town  of  Adelsberg 
where  is  to  be  seen  one  of  the  greatest  natural  ex- 
cavations of  the  Old  World. 

At  the  ofi&ce  of  the  Grotto  we  are  required  to 
register  our  names  and  pay  the  fee,  which  is  from 
ten  to  fifteen. dollars,  according  to  the  number  of 
guides  which  attend  you.  "We  employ  five,  the 
usual  number.  Each  one  c'arries  a  basket  filled  with 
candles,  as  we  are  to  have  a  "grand  illumination  " 
which  requires  about  three  hundred  lights. 

This  wonderful  Grotto  was  discovered  in  the 
eleventh  century,  and  soon  became  celebrated  for 
the   splendor   and  richness  of  its   interior.      It  is 


CAVE  OF  ADELSBERG.  337 

composed  of  many  caverns  wliicli  have  been  found 
at  different  times.  The  most  notable  are  named 
"The  Cathedral"  "Ball  Room,"  "Behind  the 
Mummies,"  Belvidere,"  and  "Calvary  Mountain." 

In  the  Ball  Room,  which  is  a  half  a  mile  under 
the  mountain,  a  ball  is  given  on  Whitsuntide  Mon- 
day by  the  surrounding  peasantry.  At  this 
time  the  Emperor  visits  the  caverns  which  are  il- 
luminated by  many  thousand  lights. 

Wrapped  in  thick  warm  clothing  and  accompa- 
nied by  the  guides  we  enter  the  first  cavern  beside 
the  river  Peik.  Following  its  course  for  some  dis- 
tance under  the  mountain,  it  plunges  its  foaming 
flood  over  the  inflexible  rocks  with  a  wild  and  almost 
deafening  roar.  The  darkness  and  gloom,  the  re- 
flection of  our  lights  in  the  rushing  water,  form  a 
scene  long  to  be  remembered.  Suddenly  the  river 
disappears  in  the  earth  and  is  seen  no  more. 

Following  our  guides  through  Ferdinand's  Grotto 
we  come  into  one  called  St.  Peter's  Chair,  where 
the  stalactites  are  combined  in  such  a  manner  as  to 
resemble    St.    Peter's   chair  at  Rome.     The   Ball- 


338  CAVE  OF  ADELSBER G. 

Room  has  a  spacious  floor  on  Trliicli  many  hundred 
couples  of  the  young  peasantry  can  dance  at  once, 
while  the  strains  of  the  band  of  music  echo  through 
the  lofty  arches  of  the  cavern.  The  seats  for  the 
orchestra  have  been  perfectly  formed  by  nature  in 
the  wall  high  above  the  floor. 

Some  of  the  guides  have  already  illuminated  with 
a  hundred  lights  the  Belvidere,  and  the  eye  rests 
upon  a  grand  formation  of  stalactites.  Transparent 
curtains  are  waving  down  in  light  folds.  In  a 
niche  is  a  grou]3  of  children  apparently  asleep.  In 
another  part  of  the  cave  a  beautiful  spring  falls  like 
a  silver  ribbon  thirty  feet  upon  the  crystal  pave- 
ment below.  A  monument  has  been  erected  here 
in  honor  of  Francis  Joseph  First  and  his  consort  the 
Empress  Elizabeth.  In  the  cave  justly  called  the 
'^Flower  Garden  "  are  represented  by  stalactites  and 
stalagmites,  thousands  of  flowers  of  purest  white — 
above,  below,  on  either  side  we  step  among  them, 
seemingly  transported  to  some  enchanted  fairy  land. 
One  cannot  form  a  just  conception  of  the  impressive 
beauty  of  this  spot  without  seeing  it. 


CAVE  OF  ADELSDERG. 


339 


After  wandering  through  grotto  after  grotto 
each  one  more  beautiful  than  the  others,  we  return 
from  the  subterrannean  world  to  the  light  of  dav, 
fully  satisfied  that  it  would  be  in  vain  to  endeavor 
to  depict  the  innumerable  variations  in  the  groups 
and  formations  which  nature  has  displayed  in  the 
beautiful  stalactites  and  stalagmites  of  the  different 
caverns  of  this  wonderful  grotto. 

Returning  to  the  hotel  we  find  the  village  peas- 
antry assembling  in  the  large  saloon  around  small 
tables,  to  while  away  the  evening  hours.  Many 
well  dressed  ladies  and  gentlemen  are  playing  vari- 
ous games  and  merrily  talking.  The  tables  are 
loaded  with  glasses  which  are  often  filled  with 
foaming  beer.  The  ladies  seem  to  enjoy  drinking 
it  as  much  as  the  gentlemen.  The  whole  forms  an 
interesting  picture  of  German  life. 

The  railroad  from  here  to  Vienna  runs  over  the 
Styrian  Alps  or  Semmering  mountains.  This  road 
was  built  at  an  expense  of  over  one  hundred 
million  of  dollars.  Its  length  is  three  hundred 
and  sixty  miles,  and  it  is  a  most  extraordinary  piece 


340  CAVE  OF  A  DELS  BERG. 

of  engineering.  The  difficulty  in  carrying  this 
road  over  the  Alps  is  shown  by  its  being  necessary 
to  cut  fourteen  different  tunnels  through  the  rock, 
in  a  distance  of  less  than  two  miles.  At  one 
moment  we  are  crossing  a  deep  valley,  at  another, 
running  along  the  edge  of  a  dizzy  precipice,  over 
which  the  merest  accident  would  throw  the  train 
and  dash  it  to  atoms.  At  another  time  we  are  fly- 
ing along  among  the  snow  and  ice  on  the  tops  of 
the  Semmering  mountains,  and  then  for  a  long  time 
descend  with  lightning  speed,  depending  entirely 
upon  .the  breaks  for  our  safety ;  and  yet  we  are 
told  that  an  accident  seldom  happens,  so  much  care 
and  precaution  are  bestowed  upon  the  management 
of  this  road. 

At  the  pleasant  town  of  Gratz  on  the  river  Mur, 
we  find  the  people  sociable  and  thrifty.  It  is  quite 
a  rich  and  aristocratic  place,  and  we  had  been  in- 
formed that  it  was  celebrated  for  the  beauty  of  its 
females.  Of  course  I  was  on  the  qin  vive  to  see 
them,  but  I  could  not  detect  their  superiority  in 
this  respect. 


CA  VE  OF  ADELSBE .M.  343 

The  country  from,  liere  to  Vienna  is  finely  culti- 
vated. It  being  Autumn  tlie  peasantry  are  indus- 
triously gathering  the  plentiful  crops.  Men  and 
women  are  at  work  in  the  fields  together. 

Along  the  wayside,  as  in  Italy  and  France,  are 
numerous  shrines  for  the  laborer  and  traveler,  in 
front  of  which  we  frequently  see  some  poor  peas- 
ant kneelins:  at  his  devotions. 

While  meditating  upon  the  varied  scenes  which 
pass  by  like  a  panorama  as  we  speed  along,  the  im- 
posing city  of  Vienna  looms  up  in  the  distance. 


CHAPTER   XLV. 

VIENNA. 

lENNA  is  to  Austria  what  Paris  is  to  France. 
The  Austrians  term  it  the  Emperor's  city. 
The  streets  are  spacious  and  well  laid  out, 
and  are  lined  with  fine  stores  filled  with 
rich  goods. 

The  Viennese  are  out  on  the  streets  or  promenad- 
ing on  the  Bastes  giving  the  city  a  gay  and  lively 
appearance. 

We  are  delightfully  situated  at  the  Kaiserin 
Elizabeth  and  feel  quite  at  home. 

Vienna  is  located  on  a  plain  on  the  south  side  of 
the  dark  rolling  waters  of  the  Danube.     It  is  sur- 
rounded by  strong  fortifications  and  has  been  the 
^  theatre  of  many  a  sanguinary  conflict.     It  has  been 
contended  for  by  the  Romans,  the  Goths,  and  subse- 


.F^iaiiiip 'yi^iifiiipfffii 


SiiM^^^^^ 


iMWlliiliillliii!ll!pii!iililii«^^^ 


VIENNA.  34»^ 

quently  Charlemagne  obtained  possession  of  it. 
The  saying  is  that  over  two  millions  have  been  slain 
upon  the  battle-field  of  Vienna. 

Some  days  are  busily  occupied  with  its  churches, 
palaces,  galleries,  shops,  and  parks.  Among  the 
latter  the  Prater  is  the  most  frequented  by  eques- 
trians and  carriages,  many  of  which  are  very  ele- 
gant, reminding  one  of  Hyde  Park,  London.  This 
park  is  four  miles  in  length,  and  bounded  by  two 
branches  of  the  Danube.  It  is  threaded  with  car- 
riage roads  and  foot  walks,  contains  a  number  of 
cafes  and  pavilions,  and  when  thronged  with  peo- 
ple looks  like  an  enchanted  forest. 

The  Austrians  consider  the  Danube  the  finest 
river  in  the  world,  and  certainly  there  is  some  excuse 
for  their  pride  in  this  noble  stream,  second  in  size 
to  the  Volga  alone  in  all  Europe.  It  rises  some- 
where in  the  Black  Forest,  and  after  a  tortuous 
course  of  1,770  miles  empties  into  the  Black  Sea. 
From  Passauto  Lin tz  the  scenery  about  the  Danube 
excels  in  sombre  grandeur  anything  to  be  seen  on 
the  PJiine.     It  is  a  dangerous  river  to  navigate  on 


348  VIENNA. 

account  of  tlie  reefs,  whirlpools,  and  the  rapidity  of 
its  current.  Its  course  from  Lintz  to  Vienna  is  not 
swift  however,  and  very  peaceful  and  rustic  farm- 
ing scenes  delight  the  eye  of  the  traveler. 

At  breakfast  we  are  agreeably  surprised  by  meet- 
ing a  general  and  his  charming  wife  from  America, 
who  had  traveled  with  us  in  England,  and  were  now 
on  their  way  to  Italy,  intending  to  remain  in 
Europe  for  two  or  three  years. 

What  a  glorious  morning,  the  sky  is  clear,  the 
weather  lovely,  and  all  nature  full  of  joy.  We  im- 
prove it  by  driving  to  the  Palace  of  Schonbrunn  just 
outside  of  the  city,  the  summer  residence  of  Francis 
Joseph  and  Elizabeth — the  Emperor  and  Empress. 
There  Maria  Theresa  resided,  and  Napoleon  when 
in  Austria.  The  Duke  of  Eeichstadt  lived  and  died 
there.  The  palace  is  decorated  with  paintings, 
gilding,  and  statuary.  In  the  garden  of  the  palace 
Stapps  the  German  student  attempted  to  assassinate 
the  French  Emperor. 

We  could  not  fail  to  call  the  gardens  of  Schon- 
brunn delightful.    They  are  shut  in  by  trees  trimmed 


VIENNA.  349 

,  into  high  walls  of  varied  green  and  are  adorned 
with  parterres  of  brilliant  flowers.  Scattered  here 
and  there  are  fountains  and  statues.  There  are 
conservatories  for  rare  and  exotic  plants,  and  also  a 
menagerie.  At  the  end  of  the  garden  on  a  hill  is 
the  Glorietta  Temple,  from  which  is  the  finest  view 
in  the  environs  of  Vienna. 

We  wandered  through  the  long  avenues  of  the 
park  over  which  large  trees  are  bent  and  trimmed 
to  meet,  forming  a  shady  bower  for  miles  in  length. 

At  the  foot  of  the  Glorietta  hill  is  the  beautiful 
fountain  of  Schonobrunnen.  Near  the  palace  is  a 
small  hotel  where  we  dine  in  true  German  style. 
Instead  of  coffee  or  tea  every  one  drinks  beer  and 
wine.  The  Austrians  enjoy  their  meals  heartily, 
sitting  for  a  long  time  at  the  table,  each  one  en- 
deavoring to  be  sociable  and  entertaining. 

Last  evening  we  attended  the  opera  at  the  Grand 
Opera  House.  It  was  crowded  with  the  beau 
monde  of  Vienna,  many  of  the  gentlemen  were  in 
military  uniforms. 

The    opera,    which   was   Zavfrpa^    was  rendered 


350  VIENNA. 

finely,  being  accompanied  by  an  orchestra  of  over 
two  hundred  musicians.  The  fau'  Prima  Donna 
being  frequently  encored  by  the  audience,  bowed 
gracefully  to  their  marks  of  appreciation,  but  re- 
ceived no  bouquets,  as  that  custom  is  not  in  vogue 
with  the  Viennese.  The  Opera  House  is  open 
every  night,  and  always  crowded  by  the  music 
loving  and  fashionable  Yiennese  people.  . 

No  city  in  Europe  boasts  of  so  many  resident  no- 
bility as  Vienna.  It  has  no  less  than  twenty-four 
princes,  sixty  or  seventy  counts,  and  any  number 
of  barons  and  other  titled  gentry.  A  great  num- 
ber of  these  are  always  to  be  seen  at  the 
opera,  and  on  the  Prater,  greatly  enjoying  life  and 
society. 

St.  Stephen's  Cathedral  is  a  stately  and  ancient 
structure,  erected  almost'  five  centuries  ago.  Its 
tower  is  over  four  hundred  and  thirty  feet  in  height 
and  is  the  most  conspicuous  object  in  the  city. 
Among  the  tombs  in  the  Cathedral  are  those  of 
Prince  Eu2:ene  and  Frederic  the  Second.  Two 
hundred  and  ten  figures  and  over  thirty-five  coats  of 


VIEXXA.  351 

arms  decorate  tlie  tomb  of  the  latter,  also  the  motto 
of  Frederic  the  Second — Austria  Est  Imperare  Orhi 
Universo.  The  pulpit  is  exceediogly  unique,  the 
material  being  of  stone  and  curiously  wrought. 
This  being  the  time  of  service  the  grand  old  organ 
peals  through  the  high  arches  thrilling  the  soul 
with  a  grand  solemnity. 

The  church  of  the  Capuchins  contains  in  its 
vaults  the  remains  of  many  of  the  royal  blood  of 
Austria.  Ringing  a  bell  it  is  answered  by  a  monk 
wearing  a  black  gown,  who  guides  us  through 
the  vaults.  In  the  center  of  the  first  vault  are 
the  sarcophagi  of  Maria  Theresa,  and  Francis  the 
Second.  The  monk  repeats  the  story  that 
every  day,  for  the  last  thirteen  years  of  her  life, 
Maria  Theresa  descended  to  this  vault  to  mourn 
by  the  tomb  of  her  dear  Francis. 

The  casket  containing  the  remains  of  the  Duke  of 
Reichstadt  is  made  of  copper  and  is  very  plain  ; 
the  only  ornament  being  a  raised  cross  ;  beside  it  is 
that  of  his  mother,  Maria  Lousia,  and  his  grq.nd- 
father,  the  emperor  Francis  First,  whose  dying  re- 


352  \1ENNA. 

quest  T^ras  that  he  might  be  buried  beside  his  grand- 
son. In  a  solid  silver  coffin  lie  the  remains  of  Joseph 
the  First.  In  an  obscure  corner  of  the  vaults  bv  the 
light  of  the  taper  the  monk  pointed  to  the  tomb  of 
Maria  Theresa's  Preceptress,  as  it  tths  the  Eui- 
press's  desire  to  have  her  placed  in  the  same 
vault.  Here  repose  ancestral  grandeur  and  po^^er. 
There  are  over  one  hundred  buried  in  the  vaults  of 
the  Capuchins.  After  leaving  the  Church  of  the 
Capuchins  vre  enjoy  a  stroll  amid  the  busy  maze 
of  life  and  pleasure.  The  Viennese  seem  to  like 
nothino^  so  well  as  to  see  and  be  seen.     Thronc^s  are 

o  o 

sauntering  along  in  front  of  the  jewelry,  meer- 
schaum, Bohemian  ware  and  fancy  goods  stores,  and 
on  the  Glacis.  The  Belvidere,  Egyptian  Museum 
and  Imperial  Arsenal  are  crowded  with  objects  of 
great  value  and  interest.  After  making  purchases 
at  tlie  shops  we  return  to  our  hotel. 


CHAPTER    XLVI. 

SALZBURG   A^D   MUNICH. 

•AKING  a  Jlaci^e  we  drive  througli  tlie 
[r^K  streets  of  the  Imperial  city  to  the  railway 
^^   station    to   take  the  cars   for  Salzburg  en 

route  to  Munich. 
We  are  ushered  into  one  of  the  handsomest  of 
waiting  rooms  we  have  ever  seen.  The  station  is 
of  immense  size,  built  of  glass  and  iron,  and  its 
various  rooms  are  adorned  with  marble  statues. 
The  railroad  is  made  beautiful  on  either  side  with 
flower  gardens,  which  extend  along  the  whole 
route.  At  distances  of  one  mile  are  em^ployees  of 
the  company,  standing  by  the  stone  cottages  in 
whi.ch  they  live,  holding  a  bright  colored  flag  as  a 
signal  to  the^  engineer  that  the  road  is  free  from 
danger.  These  watchmen  also  cultivate  the  flow- 
ers. 


354  SALZBURG  AND  MUNICH. 

Large  sums  of  money  are  lavished  upon  tlie  roads 
in  Germany  to  beautify  the  scenery  and  insure  the 
safety  of  the  traveler.  The  buildings  and  bridges 
connected  with  the  railroads  are  all  constructed  of 
solid  masonry,  in  the  most  firm  and  substantial 
manner.  The  bed  of  the  road,  between  the  tracks, 
is  strewn  with  fine  white  pebbles  to  prevent  the 
dust  from  rising  as  the  trains  dash  along.  The  cars 
are  more  luxuriously  upholstered  than  any  which 
we  have  yet  been  in.  Many  of  them  are  like  a 
richly  decorated  drawing  room. 

Arriving  at  Salzburg,  the  home  of  Mozart,  we 
remain  a  limited  time  in  order  to  visit  the  house 
and  monument  of  the  great  composer.  The  house 
is  built  of  light  colored  rough  stone,  is  three  stories 
high  and  wears  a  time-worn  look.  On  the  facade 
of  the  house  is  the  name  of  Mozart,  and  a  gilded 
lyre.  Here  in  his  infancy  Mozart  showed  manifes- 
tations of  that  marvelous  taste  for  music  which 
could  not  be  satisfied  until,  like  Handel  and  Haydn^ 
he  had  inscribed  his  great  name  upon  the  roll  of 
immortal  fame.     It  is  a  singular  fact,  that  the  early 


SALZBURG  AND  MUNICH.  355 

days  and  lives  of  the  world's  greatest  musical  com- 
posers were  spent  so  near  together. 

Haydn  was  a  choir  boy  in  St.  Stephen's  Cathe- 
dral in  Vienna,  and  it  was  in  the  same  city  that 
Mozart,  Haydn,  and  Beethoven  lived  and  wrote 
their  greatest  works. 

The  monument  of  Mozart  stands  in  front  of  the 
house,  and  is  crowned  with  his  statue  holding  in  the 
right  hand  a  scroll  of  music. 

The  noble  and  erect  form,  the  high  forehead,  and 
the  placid  expression  of  his  face,  inspire  the  behol- 
der with  reverence  and  admiration. 

It  was  here  Richard  First  of  England,  better 
known  as  Coeur  de  Leon,  stopped  on  his  return 
from  the  wars  of  the  Crusades  in  Palestine,  and 
was  arrested  and  imprisoned  by  the  Duke  of 
Austria. 

Salzburg  is  situated  on  the  edge  of  the  Tyrol. 
The  people  have  many  of  the  characteristics  of  the 
Tyrolese,  who  are  noted  for  their  peculiar  warm- 
heartedness and  frankness  of  character.     The  dress 

of  the  women  consists  of  a  large  hat  trimmed  with 
19 


356  SALZBURG  AND  MUNICB 

long  ribbons,  skirts  of  green,  black,  or  blue  witli  a 
corsage  of  variegated  colors. 

They  are  passionately  fond  of  music,  and  as  they 
go  by  we  often  hear  them  singing  some  rustic  air. 
As  we  pass  they  cordially  greet  us. 

The  Tyrol  is  the  Switzerland  of  Austria:  In  the 
valleys  are  the  Tyrolese  villages,  where  music  and 
dancing  is  the  frequent  pastime  of  the  peasantry. 

The  Riding  School,  the  Brunnen  or  fountain, 
and  the  Cathedral  are  all  ornaments  to  Salzburg, 
which  is  charmingly  located  upon  the   river   Salza. 

The  Cathedral  has  an  air  of  newness  and  neatness 
seldom  found.  In  the  porch  is  a  priest  with  a 
tiny  brush,  sprinkling  holy  water  over  the  devotees 
as  they  pass  in  and  out.  The  interior  is  decorated 
by  six  extraordinary  paintings  representing  Christ 
bearing  the  Cross. 

From  Salzburg  we  are  rapidly  borne  to  Munich, 
the  capital  of  Bavaria.  The  Rheinischer  Hof,  like 
all  the  German  hotels  we  have  found  is  scrupulously 
neat.     Most  of  the  waiters  are  boys  from  the  ages 


SALZBURG  AND  MUNICH.  357 

of  fifteen  to  eighteen,  who  are  neatly  clothed  and 
polite. 

Munich  is  called  one  of  the  most  lovely  and  art- 
inviting  cities  of  Europe.  It  abounds  in  cathedrals 
and  galleries  of  art.  There  are  in  the  library  over 
five  hundred  thousand  volumes,  among  which  is 
Luther's  Bible. 

The  statue  of  Bavaria  is  outside  of  the  city.  It 
was  modeled  by  Schwanthaler  and  is  the  largest  in 
the  world.  Together  with  the  lion  and  the  pedes- 
tal, it  is  over  one  hundred  feet  in  height.  A  spiral 
stair  case  leads  into  the  head  of  the  figure,  where 
eight  persons  can  stand  at  once.  Around  the 
statue  is  a  very  elegant  colonnade  and  building 
called  the  "  Hall  of  the  Heroes." 

The  two  Pinacothek  galleries  contain  the  richest 
collection  of  paintings  in  Germany.  The  most 
noted  being  that  of  the  "Deluge"  by  Schorn.  It 
remains  unfinished  as  the  artist  died  before  he  com- 
pleted his  work.  The  Glyptothek  is  filled  with 
rare  sculpture,  dating  back  to  the  Homan  and  Gre- 
cian schools  of  art. 


358  SALZBURG  AND  MUNICH. 

This  morning,  accompanied  by  our  commissioner 
who  is  over  seventy  years  of  age  but  intelligent 
and  active,  we  went  to  the  Royal  palace  of  King 
Ludwig.  Among  its  attractions  is  the  Kaiserzimmer 
or  suite  of  rooms  once  occupied  by  Charles  the 
Seventh,  also  the  rich  chapel  and  cabinet  of  mirrors. 
In  one  saloon  hang  the  portraits  of  thirty  of  the 
most  beautiful  women  of  Munich. 

From  the  saloon  of  Rudolph  of  Hapsburg  we 
pass  into  the  Throne  Room.  The  gallery  is  sup- 
ported by  marble  columns,  between  which  are  gild- 
ed statues  representing  the  various  princes  of 
Bavaria.  At  the  end  of  this  grand  and  gorgeous 
room  is  an  elevated  platform  with  three  steps,  which 
are  beautifully  carpeted,  each  carpet  being  wrought 
in  different  patterns. 

On  the  throne  is  the  coronation  chair  of  red  vel- 
vet, set  in  frame  work  of  gilt.  The  King  is  not 
quite  twenty-five  years  of  age,  and  is  soon  to  be  mar- 
ried. There  is  only  one  chair  upon  the  throne  but 
a  place  is  arranged  for  another  as  soon  as  the  mar- 
riage is  consummated. 


SALZBURG  AND  MUNICH.  359 

The  finest  street  in  the  city  is  Maximilian  Street, 
being  named  after  the  Emperor  Maximilian.  It 
is  very  wide,  having  both  carriage  drives  and  walks 
on  either  side.  Along  the  center  are  flowers,  trees, 
and  fountains. 

The  Munich  beer  is  pronounced  the  best  in  Ger- 
many. On  every  street  are  saloons  and  gardens 
where  men,  women,  and  children  enjoy  the  fa- 
vorite German  beverage. 

To-day  we  have  attended  a  German  fair  or  festi- 
val on  the  grounds  in  front  of  the  statue  of  Bavaria. 
The  trees  are  decked  with  flags  and  garlands, 
booths  and  tents  are  erected,  and  while  a  fine  band 
discourses  sweet  music,  the  young  men  and  maidens 
are  wandering  from  table  to  table,  purchasing  the 
tempting  fruits  or  chatting  together.  Others  of  the 
male  portion  are  entering  with  spirit  into  the  athletic 
feats,  target  practice  and  gymnastic  exercises  gener- 
ally. 

The  Germans  appear  to  be  the  most  contented 
and  happy  people  we  have  seen  in  Europe  ;  and 
there  is  an  air  of  thrift  and  industry   about   them 


3 go  SALZBURG  AXD  MUNICH. 

■wliicli  is  very  pleasant  to  see.  They  greatly 
delight  in  picnics,  fairs,  and  festivals,  which  are 
all  conducted  in  the  most  quiet  and  orderly 
manner. 

They  do  not  strive  with  such  care  and  anxiety 
to  make  money,  but  what  little  they  do  earn  is 
used  to  the  best  advantage ;  and  whether  rich  or 
poor  they  all  seem  cheerful. 

Before  leaving  Munich  we  drive  out  to  the  ceme- 
tery. A  singular  custom  of  the  people  is  to  carry 
all  who  die  to  a  large  building  near  the  entrance  to 
the  cemetery.  This  hall  is  divided  into  various 
apartments  by  glass  partitions;  one  is  set 
apart  for  the  rich  and  another  for  the 
poor.  The  bodies  are  prepared  for  burial  and 
and  placed  in  cofi&ns  more  or  less  elegant,  according 
to  the  circumstances  of  the  departed.  Here 
'  they  remain  generally  three  days,  during  which 
time  they  are  exposed  to  the  view  of  their  relatives 
and  friends.  Infancy,  youth,  and  old  age  sleep 
side  by  side  Many  of  the  coffins  are  almost  cov- 
ered with  flowers,  while  throngs  come  at  all  hours 


SALZBURG  AND  MUNI CH.  3  g  j 

of  the  day  to  gaze  sadly  through  the  glass  parti- 
tions. From  two  o'clock  to  five,  every  day,  there  is 
a  continual  procession  of  funerals  from  this  building 
to  the  cemetery. 


CHAPTER   XLYII. 

BADEN    BADEN. 

^HE  scenery  from  Municli  to  Baden  Baden  is 
^^  diversified  and  picturesque.  The  variety 
of  tlie  grand  Autumn  panorama,  not  the  art 
of  all  the  painters  in  the  world  could  imitate. 
The  mountains,  forests,  and  valleys  far  and  vfide  are 
brilliant  with  a  thousand  colors. 

We  roll  swiftly  by  the  pleasant  cities  of  AugS; 
burg,  in  Bavaria,  Ulm  and  Stuttgardt,  in  the 
kingdom  of  Wurtemburg,  and  Carlsruhe,  the 
capital  of  the  Duchy  of  Baden,  until  we  reach 
the  famous  old  town  of  Heidelberg,  celebrat- 
ed for  its  Castle  and  University.  The  latter  is  at- 
tended by  over  five  hundred  students,  who  pride 
themselves  on  the  eccentric  shaped  hat  which  they 
^  wear,  and  in  their  proficiency  in  duelling,  which 
UDtil  lately  was  carried  to  the  most  reprehensible 
extent.     It  was  not  unfrequent  for  a  student  of  the 


BADEN  BADEN.  3  (J 3 

university  to  have  three,  four,  and  sometimes  even 
as  many  as  six  affairs  dlionneur  on  his  hands  at 
once.  They  do  not  often  kill  each  other,  as  they 
fight  with  a  weapon  not  well  adapted  to  that  pur- 
pose ;  but  they  scar  each  other's  faces  in  a  hideous 
manner ;  and  what  is  very  singular  in  this  age  of 
refinement  at  least,  is  that  they  are  even  proud  of 
these  evidences  of  ungentlemanly  brawls. 

On  our  left  is  the  Black  Forest,  which  may  justly 
be  called  one  of  the  most  interesting  districts  of 
Southern  Germany.  It  is  wild  and  romantic.  The 
tall  pineS^of  its  forest  are  sombre  and  imposing. 
Here  were  laid  the  scenes  of  the  celebrated  Ger- 
man legend  of  Siegfried  and  numberless  other 
romantic  tales. 

Arriving  at  Baden  Baden  we  engage  board  at 
the  Hotel  de  Bussie  where  everything  is  comme  il 
faut. 

Although  the  gay  season  is  over,  there  are  many 
lingering  here,  and  the  hotels  are  tolerably  well 
filled. 

This  morning  is  dull  and  gray,  threatening  rain  ; 


364  BADEN  BADEN. 

but  it  does  not  deter  us  from  going  to  ttie  springs, 
and  wandering  over  this  charming  spot. 

Baden  Baden  is  built  upon  the  slope  of  a  hill 
on  the  border  of  the  Black  Forest,  and  bj  the  little 
river  Oos.  It  is  the  most  fashionable  lounge  in 
Europe.  Its  patrons  come  from  Russia,  Austria, 
France,  Italy,  England,  and  America.  At  all  times 
more  or   less   Americans   are    to   be   found   here. 

There  are  from  ten  to  fifteen  hot  springs  in  the  val- 
ley, the  water  of  which  resembles  and  tastes  much 
like  warm  milk,  or  weak  broth.  The  water  is  con- 
sidered very  efi&cacious  in  healing  many  diseases,  con- 
sequently it  is  a  resort  for  invalids  as  well  as  pleas- 
ure seekers. 

The  Trink  Halle  and  Conversationshaus  are  the 
centres  of  attraction.  The  water  is  brought  from 
the  springs  in  pipes  to  the  former,  where  it  may  be 
had  free  at  all  hours  of  the  day.  The  fashion  con- 
centrates in  the  afternoon  and  evening  in  and 
around  the  Conversationshaus.  In  front  has  been 
erected  a  Pagoda  for  musical  bands,  at  an  expense 
of  fifteen  thousand  dollars. 


BADEN  BADEN.  337 

The  Conversationshaus  is  brilliantly  lighted  in  the 
evening,  where  may  be  seen  the  excitement  and 
merriment  at  its  full  height.  Hundreds  are  dancing 
and  promenading  to  the  music,  while  in  small  saloons 
contiguous  to  the  ball  room  are  gambling  tables, 
at  which  are  gathered  old  and  young,  male 
and  female.  As  the  wheel  revolves  thousands 
of  dollars  are  changing  hands.  This  opens  a 
new  leaf  in  the  history  of  my  life,  as  it  is  the  first 
time  I  have  ever  seen  a  gaming  table.  Hundreds 
are  watching  the  game  with  anxious  and  expectant 
looks.  A  beautiful  young  woman  remains  seated  at 
the  table  for  along  time.  In  front  of  her  is  a  pile  of 
gold  pieces,  selecting  one  after  another  she  places 
them  upon  the  figures.  The  pile  of  gold  increases, 
when  suddenly  by  an  unlucky  turn  of  the  card  it  is 
all  won  from  her,  and  she  calmly  rises,  bids  her 
friends  good  evening  and  retires,  portraying  no  dis- 
comforture  at  her  loss.  One  lady  nearly  eighty 
years  old,  very  richly  attired,  with  trembling  hands 
places  upon  the  figure,  not  a  single  piece  but  a  roll 


3(38  BADEN  BADEN. 

of  sovereigns,  she  loses  and  wins  alternately,  at  no 
time  putting  down  less  than  one  hundred  dollars, 
and  when  we  came  away  she  was  still  anxiously 
playing  at  Rouge-et-noir. 

For  shame  !  that  any  civilized  government  should 
legalize  and  tolerate  this  wicked  practice,  especially 
in  a  place  where  the  young  and  innocent  are  liable 
to  be  tempted  and  fall  into  the  snare. 

Shady  glens,  retired  walks,  terraced  hills,  and 
silver  streams,  allure  one  for  hours  to.  linger  amid 
their  fascinating  and  enrapturing  beauties. 

After  a  refreshing  shower  we  are  seated  upoc 
the  verptuda  of  our  hotel.  The  scarlet  vines  which 
completely  cover  the  trellis-work  of  the  veranda 
are  dazzling  with  innumerable  gem-like  rain  drops 
glistening  in  the  setting  sun.  The  rosy  flush 
gradually  fades  away  from  the  distant  mountains  of 
the  Black  Forest,  until  twilight  changes  to  the  gray 
of  evening. 

To-day  is  a  gala-day  here.  Flags  are  flying  from 
the  old  and  new  scliloss,  both  castles  crowning  the 


BADEN  BADEN.  369 

town.  It  is  the  Prince  of  Prussia's  birthday.  The 
Crovrn  Prince  is  staying  here  and  the  Queen  of 
Prussia,  Princess  Alice  and  Louis  of  Hesse,  and 
others  have  already  arrived  to  celebrate  the  day. 
\Ye  are  thus  afforded  an  opportunity  to  see  Queen 
Augusta,  now  Empress.  She  is  tall,  and  comely  look- 
ing, wearing  a  long  train  of  costly  black  silk,  she 
moves  with  stately  step  and  every  action  is  dignified, 
and  her  mild  face  beams  with  kindness. 

The  Crown  Prince  and  Princess  appear  to  enter 
cheerfully  into  the  spirit  of  the  hour. 

Oar  stay  here  has  been  pleasant  and  interesting, 
but  the  time  has  arrived  to  depart.  This  morning 
we  drive  to  the  railway  station  where  there  was  a 
great  commotion.  Large  loads  of  trunks  and 
carriages  filled  with  attendants  announce  the 
presence  of  royalty ;  for  the  rank .  of  persons  in 
Europe  is  indicated,  while  traveling,  by  the  number 
of  servants  and  the  amount  of  luggage  which  they 
take  along  with  them.  The*  royal  family  begin  to 
arrive  and  enter  a  magnificent  railway  carriage  ap- 


3  70  BADEN  BADEN. 

propriated  to  their  use.  We  accompanied  tliem  on 
the  same  train  as  far  as  Kehl  where  the  palatial  car 
was  switched  off  and  the  rojal  company  went  down 
the  Rhine,  while  we  crossed  the  river  to  Stras- 
bourg. 


STRASBOURG    CATHEDRAL. 


CHAPTER    XLYIII. 

STRASBOURG. 


?j©HE  Cathedral  of  Strasbourg,  and  tlie  wonder- 


ful clock  which  it  contains,  form  together 
the   greatest  attraction   of  the   city,    and 
during  the  year  bring  thousands  of  sight- 
seeing people  to  Strasbourg. 

The  munster^  as  it  is  called  by  the  citizens,  was 
commenced  by  Erwin  of  Steinbach,  in  the  thirteenth 
century,  who  died  long  before  it  was  completed ;  in 
fact  it  was  not  finished  until  the  seventeenth  cen- 
tury. The  spire  is  the  highest  in  the  world,  and  is 
over  twenty  feet  higher  than  the  great  Pyramid  of 
Cheops  in  Egypt,  It  is  a  marvelous  piece  of  archi- 
tecture, being  composed  entirely  of  stone,  which  is 
cut  with  such  precision  that  when  you  approach  the 
'city  the  spire  resembles  lace- work. 


374  STRASBOURG. 

The  interior  is  vast  and  imposing.  There  are 
three  separate  services  being  held  in  various  parts 
of  the  cathedral.  We  make  our  way  through  the 
crowd  to  a  small  side  door,  where  a  fee  is  required 
of  us,  and  we  ascend  the  winding  and  worn  stone 
stairway  to  the  roof,  from  which  a  wide  perspective 
of  the  city  and  country  around  greets  our  eyes. 
Looking  down  from  the  dizzy  height,  persons  walk- 
ing along  the  streets  appear  like  the  merest  insects. 
For  a  small  sum  an  old  man  offers  us  books  descrip- 
tive of  the  view  ;  also,  photographs  of  the  munster 
and  spire.  Near  the  bell-tower  are  inserted  tablets 
on  which  are  inscribed  the  names  of  the  different 
sovereigns  who  have  intrepidly  undergone  the  as- 
cent of  the  spire.  I  deem  it  not  at  all  unbecoming 
to  receive  such  an  honor,  as  it  is  fatiguing  and 
attended  with  some  danger.  I  am  asked  by  the 
watchman  in  the  bell-tower  to  pull  a  small  wire, 
which  invitation  I  accepted.  In  an  instant,  as  if  by 
magic,  all  the  cathedral  bells  as  well  as  others  over 
the  city  commenced  such  a  ringing  that  I  was  mo- 
mentarily alarmed  at  what  I  had  done ;    but  the 


STRASBOURG.  375 

watchman  assured  me  it  was  opportune  and  all 
right,  as  it  was  the  hour  for  ringing  the  chimes. 
ThcY  are  all  set  in  motion  by  this  little  wn'e. 

Descending  to  the  nave  of  the  cathedral,  we  ob- 
tain by  the  payment  of  two  or  three  francs  a  favor- 
able position  in  front  of  the  marvelous  clock.  As 
it  is  near  the  hour  of  twelve,  people  begin  to  as- 
semble until  some  three  hundred  are  gathered  to 
see  it  and  hear  it  strike  the  hour  of  noon. 

This  curious  piece  of  mechanism  is  a  complete 
astronomical  almanac,  showing  the  revolutions  of 
the  heavenly  bodies,  their  positions  at  any  given 
time,  and  the  various  changes  which  they  undergo 
for  hundreds  of  years.  At  midnight,  before  Janu- 
ary first,  the  machinery  sets  this  calendar  for  the 
year.  In  the  lower  compartment  are  figures  of  a 
child,  a  youth,  a  man  of  middle  age,  an  old  man, 
and  of  death.  Every  quarter  of  an  hour  these  step 
forward  in  their  order,  from  youth  to  old  age,  and 
strike  the  bell,  after  which  they  retire.  Every  day 
at  twelve   o'clock   Death  strikes  the  hour  with  a 

bone,  after  which,  in  regular  procession,  the  twelve 
20 


376  STRASBOURG. 

apostles  come  forth  and  marcli  in  front  of  a  figure 
of  the  Savior,  whose  hand  is  extended  to  bless  them. 
As  they  pass,  each  one  turns  and  bows  to  him,  while 
he  acknowledges  their  obeisance  bj  an  inclination  of 
the  head.  When  Peter  comes  forth,  a  gilded  rooster 
perched  above  the  clock  flaps  his  wings  and  crows 
three  times,  which  loudly  echoes  through  the  vast 
building. 

There  are  also  seven  figures  representing  the 
seven  planets,  and  each  day  one  of  these  emerge, 
while  the  others  remain  concealed  until  their  respec- 
tive turn. 

The  whole  structure  is  over  sixty  feet  in  height, 
and  was  invented  between  the  years  1837  and  1842. 
Before  this  there  had  been  two  other  remarkable 
clocks,  built  in  the  same  place,  but  none  comparable 
to  the  present  one,  which  has  been  the  pride  and 
boast  of  Strasbourg  for  the  past  thirty  years.  In 
a  house  near  the  cathedral  is  shown  the  model  from 
which  the  clock  was  made. 

From  here  we  go  to  the  church  of  St.  Thomas, 
which  contains  the  superbly  chiseled  monument  of 


STRASBOURG.  3^7 

Marshal  Saxe.  erected  to  his  memory  by  Louis  the 
Fifteenth. 

Strasbourg  is  built  upon  a  plain,  and  is  strongly 
fortified.  Around  the  n:ity  runs  a  deep  moat  which 
can  be  easily  flooded  with  water.  Formerly  a  Ger> 
man  city,  it  was  taken  from  Germany  by  the  French 
under  Louis  the  Fourteenth,  in  the  year  1681.  It 
has  lately  again  been  subject  to  the  fortunes  of  war, 
and  belongs  once  more  to  the  Germans.  The 
people  are  German  in  their  characteristics,  although 
they  speak  the  French  language.  The  houses  are 
quaint-looking,  having  high  and  steep  roofs  in 
which  are  frequently  to  be  seen  seven  and  eight 
rows  of  dormer  windows.  The  women  go  without 
bonnets,  wearing  merely  a  huge  bow  of  either  plain 
black  or  plaid  ribbon  on  their  heads. 

At  the  Hotel  D'Angleterre  we  meet  some  Ameri- 
cans, which  suggests  thoughts  of  home  and  of  those 
we  have  been  so  long  absent  from.  We  take  the 
cars,  which  in  a  few  hours  set  us  down  in  Mayence, 
where  we  rest  preparatory  to  sailing  down  the 
Rhine. 


CHAPTER    XLIX. 

DOWN    THE    RHINE. 

"  A  blending  of  all  beauties ;  streams  and  dells, 
Fruit,  foliage,  crag,  wood,  cornfield,  mountain,  ruin, 
And  chiefless  castles  breathiug  stem  farewells 
From  gray  but  leafy  walls,  where  ruin  greenly  dwells." 

'HE  most  charming  and  interesting  views  on 
the  German's  favorite  river  are  between 
Majence  and  Cologne.  Here  we  see  ivy- 
covered  ruins  of  old  castles  crowning  almost 
every  mountain.  Small  steamers  ply  daily  up  and 
down  the  lovely  river,  which  are  well  patronized, 
not  only  by  the  residents  of  the  villages,  towns, 
and  cities  along  the  Rhine,  but  by  strangers  from 
many  lands. 

Mayence,  or  Mainz  as  the   Germans  call  it,  is  a 
place  of  no  small  importance.     It  has  a  powerful 


DOWN  THE  RHINE.  379 

garrison,  and  is  near  to  Wiesbaden,  the  celebrated 
German  watering  place,  from  which  on  pleas- 
ant afternoons  much  company  is  attracted  to  May- 
ence  to  listen  to  the  performance  of  the  military 
bands.  Gutenberg,  the  inventor  of  printing  was 
born  here  in  1397.  A  superior  monument  of  him 
by  Thorwaldsen  stands  in  front  of  the  theatre  in 
Gutenberg-Platz.  There  is  one  name  especially 
honored  by  the  ladies  of  Mainz,  and  that  \&  Meissen., 
the  minstrel  called  Frausnlhe.,  or  woman  lover,  be- 
cause he  made  the  virtues  of  women  the  theme  of 
his  songs.  In  1843  the  ladies  of  Mainz  erected  a 
monument  to  his  memory. 

The  remains  of  a  Eoman  aqueduct  in  Mainz 
prove  the  great  antiquity  of  the  city.  In  the  8th 
century  St.  Boniface  was  archbishop  of  Mainz, 
which  was  even  then  a  flourishing  town.  The  cele- 
brated sparkling  hock  is  made  in  Mayence,  and 
there  are  great  manufactories  of  leather,  pottery, 
furniture,  carriages,  and  pianos ;  a  most  valuable 
and  extensive  library,  and  among  museums  one  of 


380  DOWN  THE  RHINE. 

Roman  antiquities.      One   collection   contains   ttie 
wonderful  astronomical  clock  by  Alexius  Johann. 

We  engage  our  passage  down  the  Rhine,  stop- 
ping first  at  Biebrich,  where  we  see  the  palace  of 
the  Duke"  of  Nassau.  Then,  Rudesheim,  where  is 
founded  the  legend  of  the  lovely  Gisela.  Next, 
Bingen,  which  is  charmingly  situated  at  the  mouth 
of  the  river  Nahe,  and  has  been  made  memorable 
by  Mrs.  Norton's  beautiful  poem, 

"  On  tlie  vine-clad  bills  of  Bingen, 
Fair  Bingen  on  the  Rhine." 

Near  here  is  the  celebrated  Tower  of  Bishop 
Hatto.  I  cannot  refrain  from  making  room  for  the 
tradition  so  movingly  described  by  SoutLey. 

"  The  summer  and  autumn  hath  been  so  wet^ 
That  in  winter  the  corn  was  growing  yet 
'T  was  a  piteous  sight  to  see  all  around 
The  grain  lie  rotting  on  the  ground. 

Every  day  the  starving  poor 
Crowded  around  Bishop  Hatto's  door, 
For  he  had  a  plentiful  last  year's  store ; 
And  all  the  neighborhood  could  tell 
His  granaries  were  furnish'd  well. 


DOWN  THE  RHINE.  381 

At  last  Bishop  Hatto  appointed  a  day 

To  quiet  the  poor  without  delay : 

He  bade  them  to  his  great  barn  repair, 

And  they  should  have  food  for  tlie  winter  there. 

Rejoiced  at  such  tidings,  good  to  hear. 
The  poor  folk  flock'd  from  far  and  near ; 
The  irreat  barn  was  full  as  it  could  hold 
Of  women  and  children,  and  young  and  old. 

Then,  when  he  saw  it  could  hold  i.o  more, 
Bishop  Hatto  he  made  fast  tie  door ; 
And  while  for  mercy  on  Christ  they  call. 
He  set  fire  to  the  barn  and  burnt  them  all. 

*  I'  faith,  'tis  an  excellent  bonfire  !'  quoth  he, 
'And  the  country  is  greatly  obliged  to  me 
For  ridding  it,  in  these  times  forlorn, 
Of  rats  that  only  consume  the  corn.' 

So  then  to  his  palace  returned  he, 
And  he  sat  down  to  his  supper  merrily. 
And  he  slept  that  night  like  an  innocent  man ; 
But  Bishop  Hatto  never  slept  again. 

In  the  morning,  as  he  entered  the  hall, 
Where  hU  picture  hung  against  the  wall, 
A  sweat  like  death  all  o'er  him  came, 
For  the  rats  had  eaten  it  out  of  the  frame. 


82  DOWN  THE  RHINE: 

As  he  look'd  there  came  a  man  from  his  farm; 
He  had  a  countenance  white  with  alarm : 
'  My  lord,  I  open'd  your  granaries  this  morn, 
And  the  rats  had  eaten  all  your  corn.' 

Another  came  running  presently, 
And  he  was  as  pale  as  pale  could  be : 

*  Fly !  my  lord  bishop,  fly  !'  quoth  he ; 

*  Ten  thousand  rats  are  coming  this  way ; 
The  Lord  forgive  you  for  yesterday !' 

*  I  '11  go  to  my  tower  on  the  Ehine,'  replied  he ; 
'  'T  is  the  safest  place  in  Germany  ; 

The  walls  are  high  and  the  shores  are  steep, 
And  the  stream  is  strong,  and  the  water  deep !' 

Bishop  Hatto  fearfully  hasten'd  away, 
And  he  cross'd  the  Rhine  without  delay, 
And  reacli'd  his  tower  and  barr'd  with  care 
All  the  windows,  doors,  and  looi^-holes  there. 

He  laid  him  down  and  closed  his  eyes, 

But  soon  a  scream  made  him  arise ; 

He  started,  and  saw  two  eyes  of  flame 

On  his  pillow,  from  whence  the  screaming  came. 

He  listened  and  look'd :  it  was  only  the  cat ; 
But  the  bishop  he  grew  more  fearful  for  that ; 
For  she  sat  screaming,  mad  with  fear, 
A  t  the  army  of  rats  that  were  drawing  near. 


DOWN  TEE  RHINE.  383 

For  they  have  swum  over  the  river  so  deep, 
And  they  have  climb'd  the  shores  so  steep ; 
And  now,  by  tliousands,  up  they  crawl 
To  the  holes  and  windows  in  the  wall. 

Down  on  his  knees  the  bishop  fell, 
"And  faster  and  faster  his  beads  did  he  tell, 
As  louder  and  louder,  drawing  near, 
The  saw  of  their  teeth  without,  he  could  hear. 

And  in  at  the  windows  and  in  at  the  door. 
And  through  the  walls  by  thousands  they  pour, 
And  down  through  the  ceiling,  and  up  through  the  floor, 
From  the  right  and  the  left,  from  behind  and  before, 
From  witliin  and  without,  from  above  and  below — 
And  all  at  once  to  the  bishop  they  go. 

They  have  whetted  their  teeth  against  the  stones, 
And  now  they  pick  the  bishop's  bones ; 
They  gnaw'd  the  flesh  from  every  limb, 
For  they  were  sent  to  do  judgment  on  him." 

At  St.  Goarliausen  is  a  singular  grotto,  where  a 
noise  like  the  blast  of  a  bugle  or  the  firing  of  a  gun 
causes  fifteen  distinct  echoes  to  be  returned. 

The  scenery  from  here  to  St.  Goar  is  wild  and 
majestic.     A  short  distance  below  is  the  extensive 


3g4  DOWX  THE  RUIXE 

fortress  of  Elieinfels,  which  was  blown  up  by  the 
French  in  1794. 

Boppart  now  comes  in  sight.  It  is  an  ancient 
town  of  Eoman  origin.  Before  reaching  Coblenz, 
on  the  left,  we  come  to  Stolzenfels,  a  splendid  castle 
belonging  to  the  Emperor  of  Prussia,  and  where  he 
entertained  Queen  Victoria  ai:id  Prince  Albert  in 
magnificent  style  in  1845. 

Coblenz  is  the  capital  of  Rhenish  Prussia,  and  is 
situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  Moselle.  It  was  built 
by  the  PtomanSj  who  called  it  "Confluentia."  Here 
the  grandsons  of  Charlemagne  met  to  divide  his 
great  empire  into  France,  Germany,  and  Italy.  It 
is  the  birth-place  of  Madam  Sontag,  the  great 
'prima  donna^  who  died  in  Mexico  in  1854.  From 
a  place  near  here  is  procured  the  celebrated  Seltzer 
water. 

Across  the  river  is  situated  the  vast  rocky  fortress 
of  Ehrenbreitstein.  The  fortifications  of  Coblenz 
give  it  the  title  of  the  Gibraltar  of  the  Bhine.  It 
is  said  to  have  been  founded  by  the  Romans  under 
Julian,  and  in  the  Thirty  Years  War  it  was  a  place 


DOWN  THE  RHINE.  385 

of  great  strategetical  importance.  The  magazines 
will  hold  provisions  enough  to  support  8000  men 
ten  jears ;  while  the  cisterns  on  the  platform  at  the 
top  will  hold  water  enough  to  last  three  years. 

We  are  again  in  motion,  and  as  we  approach 
Neuwied  a  thick  fog  suiTounds  us,  which  obliterates 
the  fine  view,  and  compels  the  captain  to  come  to 
anchor  in  the  middle  of  the  river. 

It  was  noon  of  the  next  day  before  our  little 
steamer  could  navigate  the  channel  again  in  safety. 
Again  in  motion,  we  passed  Nuns'  Island,  on  which 
rests  the  castle  of  Rolandseck,  where  Roland  so 
often  cast  his  sorrowful  eyes,  while  his  betrothed 
was  so  many  years  imprisoned  there. 

On  the  right,  towering  up  to  the  sky,  is  the  rug- 
ged Dragon's  Rock,  or  Drachenfels,  so  called  from 
the  legend  of  a  dragon  which  once  inhabited  a 
cavern  in  the  side  of  the  rock.  Perched  on  the 
summit  is  a  ruined  castle  which  was  so  long  the 
home  of  the  robber  chiefs  of  the  Rhine,  and  which 
has  been  enchantingly  described  by  Byron — 


336  DOWN  THE  RHINE. 

"  The  castled  crag  of  Drachenfds 
Frowns  o'er  the  wide  and  winding  Rhine." 

The  last  importaut  town  before  reaching  Cologne 
is  Bonn,  founded  by  the  Empress  Helena,  mother 
of  Constantine,  in  the  year  320.  In  this  town  there 
is  a  fine  bronze  statue  of  the  Empress,  also  one  of 
Beethoven,  and  the  house  in*  which  he  resided. 
Bonn  has  a  famous  University  and  the  finest  and 
most  extensive  university  buildings,  perhaps,  in  all 
Europe.  It  has  a  library  containing  140,000  vol- 
umes, a  museum  of  aaitiquities,  an  archaeological 
collection,  a  cabinet  of  natural  history,  and  a  large 
riding  academy  in  the  basement.  It  has  a  distinct 
building  for  anatomy  ;  and  its  botanical  gardens^  its 
zooloo'ical  and  mineraloo^ical  collections  are  -a  full 
mile  away.  It  has  also  an  astronomical  observatory 
and  a  fine  agricultural  academy,  while  catholic  and 
protestant  students  have  different  divinity  schools. 
The  number  of  professors  and  tutors  is  about  one 
hundred.  From  Bonn  down  the  river  to  Cologne 
is  but  a  short  distance.  The  Rhine  is  to  the  Ger- 
^    mans  what   the   Nile  is  to  the  Egyptians.      The 


DOWN  THE  RHISE.  3 §7 

people  along  the  country  througli  which  it  runs  are 
apparently  thrifty  and  happy.  Every  foot  of  the 
soil  is  under  cultivation,  even  to  the  sides  of  the 
mountains,  which  are  terraced  and  planted  with 
vineyards.  It  being  the  time  of  the  vintage,  we 
have  seen  hundreds  vigorously  employed  gathering 
grapes  for  making  the  much  prized  Ehine  wine. 
Among  others,  we  saw  the  famous  vineyards  of 
Rudesheim,  Johannisberger,  and  Hockheimer. 

The  shores  of  the  Rhine  abound  with  towers, 
castles,  crags,  and  fortresses,  around  which  cling 
legends  and  fabulous  traditions,  all  dear  to  the  Ger- 
man jnind,  and  romantically  interesting  to  tourists, 
especially  those  interested  in  the  history  and  the 
literature  of  Germany. 


oJX 


CHAPTER   L. 

COLOGNE. 

E  are  assigned  pleasant  rooms  in  the  Hotel 
^^^"^  cle  Hollande  looking  out  upon  the  Rhine. 
p  The  windows  are  double  like  two  glass 
doors  which  open  sideways  instead  of 
moving  up  and  down.  A  handsome  porcelain 
stove  with  white  ground  and  colored  figures  stands 
in  the  corner.  The  floor  is  laid  in  patterns  of  pol- 
ished oakc  The  walls  are  painted  with  ornamental 
designs  and  the  furniture  is  in  keeping  with  the 
decorations.  While  seated  in  this  room  looking 
out  upon  the  dark  waters  of  the  Rhine^  the  moon 
slowly  rose  from  behind  the  distant  hills,  throwing 
its  silver  light  upon  the  wide  sweeping  river  whose 
ripples  broke  it  into  ten  thousand  sparkling  dia- 
monds. 


COLOGNE. 


389 


I  am  awakened  from  my  musing  by  the  ringing 
of  a  bell.  It  was  a  servant  presenting  several 
cards,  on  which  were  written  names  of  commission- 
ers for  the  most  desirable  and  reliable  establish- 
ments to  buy  eau  de  cologne^  etc. 

This  being  a  bright  clear  and  invigorating  morn- 
ing we  drive  to  the  house  No.  10  Sternengasse  in 
which  Peter  Paul  Rubens  was  born  in  1577. 
Maria  de  Medici  died  in  the  same  house  in  1642. 
In  one  of  the  rooms  are  a  few  of  the  earliest  works 
of  the  master,  among  them  a  painting  of  a  child  and 
kitten,  the  price  of  which  was  four  thousand  dollars. 

On  the  front  of  the  house  is  a  portrait  of  Rubens 
wearing  a  low  crowned,  broad  brimmed  hat  decorat- 
ed with  an  ostrich  plume. 

From  here  we  are  guided  to  the  celebrated 
church  of  St.  Ursula. 

Knocking  at  the  door  of  the  church  of  St.  Ursula 
containing  the  bones  of  eleven  thousand  virgins,  we 
are  admitted  by  a  woman.  In  the  walls  overhead, 
in  the  pavement  and  everywhere  we  look  are  glass 
cases  filled  with  these  unsightly  bones. 


390  COLOGNE. 

The  legend  of  Saint  Ursula  is  a  grim  and  terri- 
ble one,  daughter  of  a  Christian  Prince  of  Britain, 
she  was  demanded  in  marriage  by  a  Pagan  Prince 
whom  she  abhorred ;  bat,  fearing  the  results  of  re- 
fusing him  she  pretended  to  consent  on  condition 
that  she  might  have  a  delay  of  three  years,  a  grant 
of  money  and  ten  noble  companions,  each,  as  well 
as  herself,  attended  by  one  thousand  virgins.  The 
three  years  were  passed  mostly  in  nautical  exercises, 
and  when  the  nuptial  day  arrived  Saint  Ursula  and 
her  companions  prayed  for  a  storm,  which  arose 
duly  and  wafted  them  to  the  mouth  of  the  Rhine 
and  then  up  to  Basle,  where  they  left  their  ships 
and  went  on  foot  to  Rome.  When  returning  to 
Cologne  they  fell  in  with  the  Huns  who  murdered 
them  all  because  Ursula  refused  to  marry  their 
leader.  The  people  of  Cologne  buried  their  bodies 
and  subsequently  built  a  church  in  honor  of  the 
Virgin  Martyrs. 

The  Cathedral  at  Cologne  is  one  of  the  most  mag- 
nificent Gothic  monuments  in  the  world.  The 
heart  of  Maria  de  Medici  is  buried  under  a  slab  in 


COLOGNE.  391 

the  pavement.  *  The  cathedral  has  on  the  exterior 
a  double  range  of  flymg  buttresses  and  intervening 
piers  and  a  wilderness  of  richly  wrought  pinnacles. 
I  walked  with  reverence  amid  its  lofty  arches  and 
columns  which  arose  high  and  far  above  me,  light- 
ed up  ethereally  by  the  light  streaming  through  the 
painted  glass  windows. 

This  colossal  pile  was  commenced  in  1248,  and 
is  not  yet  completed.  Probably  it  never  will  be 
finished  according  to  the  original  plan,  as  the  name 
even  of  its  first  architect  is  lost,  and  as  it  is  estimated 
that  it  will  require  over  five  millions  of  dollars  to 
finish  the  structure.  There  is  a  les^end  in  Coloo:ne 
that  Satan,  who  became  jealous  at  the  vastness  of  the 
undertaking,  vowed  that  it  should  never  be  com- 
pleted ;  and  hence  the  delay  from  century  to  cen- 
tury is  the  result  of  his  wicked  scheming. 

Everywhere  we  go  we  are  importuned  by  agents, 

whose  business  it  is  to  call  rpon  all  strangers  who 

visit  Cologne    to    recommend    to    them    the   only 

place  where  the  genuine  cologne  can  be   obtained. 

There  are  some  sixteen  or  seventeen  manufactories 
21 


392  COLOGNE 

all  claiming  to  be  the  original  inventors  of  this  wel 
known  perfume.  There  are  Maria  Farina,  Johann: 
Farina,  Anton  Maria  Farina,  Johanna  Anton  Farina, 
and  several  other  Farina's.  All  exhibiting  medals, 
and  official  stamps  declaring  the  cologne  which  they 
offer  to  be  the  bona  fide  article.  These  agents  cling 
to  yon  with  pertinacity,  expecting  you  to  make  an  ex- 
travagant purchase  of  them.  It  is  conceded  by  trav- 
elers that  the  people  along  the  river  suppose,  "  Die 
Englandier  hahen  viel  geW^ — the  Englishman  has 
lots  of  money. 

The  country  from  Cologne  to  Aix  la  Chapelle  is 
no  exception  to  the  rest  of  German  scenery.  Every 
little  patcji  of  land  is  tilled.  The  Vv^omen  as  well  as 
the  men  are  toiling  in  the  fields.  They  tramp 
about  in  heavy  wooden  shoes  conveying  upon  their 
heads  baskets  filled  with  vegetables. 

Invalids  gather  at  Aix  la  Chapelle  to  drink  the 
water  of  its  warm  sulphur  springs.  The  air  is  pure 
and  the  climate  healthy.  At  the  principal  hotel  a 
band  of  music  is  employed  every  day. 

The  next   place   of  attraction   before  reaching 


COLOGNE.  393 

Briisssls  is  Liege,  owing  to  its  extensive  iron  manii- 
lactcries,  termed  the  Birmingham  of  Belgium.  As 
we  enter  the  city  at  night,  the  country  for  miles 
around  is  illuminated  with  a  hundred  flames  burst- 
ing from  the  chimneys  of  its  great  factories,  pre- 
senting the  appearance  of  a  city  on  fire. 

From  here  to  Brussels  the  distance  is  seventy 
rniles  through  a  delightful  country.  In  the  railway 
carriage  we  become  acquainted  with  a  Paissian 
f^entleman  and  two  ladies  who  were  on  their  wav 
horn  St.  Petersburg  to  Paris.  As  soon  as  they  as- 
certained that  we  were  Americans  they  became  quite 
sociable  and  made  many  inquiries  about  our  coun- 
try. They  spoke  English  fluently,  and  evidently 
belonged  to  the  higher  classes  of  Russian  society. 

I  was  nauch  interested  wdien  they  began  to  de- 
scribe a  visit  of  some  Americans  last  summer  to  their 
Emperor  at  his  palace  on  the  Black  Sea,  which 
created  no  little  sensation  among  the  people  of  St^ 
Petersburg.  Most  of  their  papers  had  published 
the  address  which  was   presented  to  the  Emperor, 


394  COLOGNE. 

and    the   names  of  the    Quaker    City   passengers, 
which  were  attached  to  it. 

After  their  glowing  description  we  informed 
them  that  we  were  cognisant  of  the  event  to  which 
they  had  been  alluding,  and  that  we  had  had  the 
pleasure  of  forming  part  of  the  Emperor's  guests. 


CHAPTER    LI. 

« 

BRUSSELS  AND    WATERLOO. 

^IpLTHOUGH    Belgium   is     comparatively   a 
^h    small  nation  and  covers   but  a  limited  por- 
^f(M     tion  of  Europe,  I  believe  it  ranks  first  on 
^  ^     the  continent  in  its  manufactories  and  en- 
terprise. 

Tlie  Belgians  are  evidently  the  Yankees  of 
Europe.  In  no  city  that  we  have  visited  is  there 
such  an  air  of  neatness,  splendor,  and  smartness,  as 
in  Brussels.  It  has  many  elegant  buildings.  The 
streets  are  wide  and  at  night  brilliantly  lighted. 
This  fair  city  is  quite  a  resting  place  for  travelers 
going  from  England  and  France  to  the  Rhine.  The 
air  at  all  times  of  the  year  is  clear  and  bracing, 
which  makes  it  a  desirable  and  healthy  residence 
for  persons  of  delicate  constitution. 


396  BRUSSELS  AND  WATERLOO. 

■  The  houses  are  built  after  tlie  manner  of  those 
in  Paris,  and  the  French  hinguage  is  spoken  through- 
out the  citj  although  the  Flemish  is  the  native 
tongue. 

The  Palace  of  Leopold,  the  King,  is  an  elegant 
structure  and  superbly  furnished.  Near  by  is  the 
one  that  was  presented  to  the  Prince  of  Orange  by 
the  city  of  Brussels,  and  afterward  occupied  by 
him,  and  the  Old  Palace,  which  Vv'as  at  one  period 
tlie  richest  of  all  the  palaces  of  Europe.  The 
Hotel  de  Yille  is  a  magnificent  specimen  of 
Gothic  architecture  adorned  with  many  statues.  In 
front  of  it  is  the  statue  of  the  Crusader,  Godfrey 
de  Bouillon.  On  one  side  of  the  Place  Roy  ale  is 
the  handsome  building  of  Parliament  erected  by 
Maria  Theresa. 

There  are  many  pleasure-inviting  parks.  In  the 
one  fronting  the  capital  we  enjoy  the  music  of  a 
band  which  plays  here  every  day. 

The  Museum  is  exceedingly  interesting.  Here 
we  see  the  works  of  the  old  Flemish  school  of  art, 
also  those  of  the  modern  masters.     The  "Deluge," 


BRC^SSELS  AXD  WATERLOO.  39^ 

by  Combers,  ''The  Song  of  Angels,"  by  Paul 
Veronese,  and.  "  Christ  bearing  the  Cross,"  by 
Rubens,  are  among  the  most  admired  in  the  gal- 
leries. 

Among  the  churches  St.  Gudule  stands  preemi- 
nent. Our  intelligent  guide  points  out  the  strangely 
yet  beautifully  carved  pulpit,  and  the  matchless 
stained  glass  windows,  as  ranking  above  all  others. 

Of  course  we  gave  some  time  to  the  world-re- 
nowned lace  manufactories.  In  large  rooms  lighted 
by  windows  painted  white,  we  see  between  thirty 
and  forty  women  and  girls  bending  over  cush- 
ions in  which  are  innumerable  extremely  fine 
needles.  From  these  points  which  are  kept 
crossins:  and  recrossin^  until  the  whole  seems 
an  intricate  mass  of  the  finest  conceivable 
threads,  come  forth  the  sprigs,  buds  and  flowers  of 
the  costly  and  rich  lace.  One  of  the  work-women 
informed  me  that  it  was  so  injurious  to  the  eyes 
that  they  could  not  work  at  lace  making  over  ten 
years,  as  at  the  end  of  that  time  their  eye-sight 
begins  to  be  impaired.  In  the  sales-room  point- 
lace    over-dresses,    veils,  shawls,   sacks,  and   trim- 


398  BRUSSELS  AXD  WATERLOO. 

mings  were  exhibited.  It  appeared  almost  incredi- 
ble that  they  Trere  manufactured  in  such  a  weari- 
some manner.  Some  of  the  articles  require  the 
labor  of  two  or  three  women  several  months. 

Point  lace,  or  ])oint  aTagnille  is  made  entirely 
with  the  needle  ;  and  after  the  ijoint  cTAlencon  and 
the  famous  iJOint  de  Vemse^  which  is  not  now  manu- 
factured, ranks  the  highest  in  value.  The  ^oint 
applique  is  made  by  sewing  sprigs  of  real  point 
lace  upon  a  plain  net,  while  in  the  real  point  lace, 
the  mesh  and  all  are  made  at  the  same  time.  The 
point  cTAlengon  is  made  of  pure,  hand-spun  linen 
thread  which  is  worth  from  five  hundred  to  six 
hundred  dollars  a  pound.  Some  English  writer 
says  that  Honiton  lace  owes  its  popularity  to  Queen 
Yictoria,  who  commiserating  the  sad  condition  of 
the  Devon  lace  makers  determined  to  aid  them ; 
and  to  this  end  had  her  wedding  lace  of  Honiton, 
which  immediately  brought  it  into  fashion,  and  it 
has  continued  expensive  ever  since. 

Many  of  the  houses  of  Brussels  have  mirrors  sus- 
pended above  their  windows  in  such  a  manner  that 


BR USSEL S  A XD  WA TERLOO.  399 

those  within  crai  see  reflected  all  that  is  going  on 
in  the  street  without  being  seen  themselves. 

In  front  of  the  Grande  Breta2;ne  the  carriao:e  is 
waiting  to  convey  us  twelve  miles  to  the  battlefield 
of  Waterloo.  Our  course  is  through  the  Alloe 
Verte  with  its  great  trees  and  interlacing  branches. 
Here  the  elite  of  Belgium's  capital  take  their  even- 
in  2:  ride.  For  a  \on^  distance  we  drive  beneath 
shade  trees  planted  on  either  side  of  the  road. 
Arriving  at  the  village  of  Waterloo,  the  little 
tavern  was  pointed  out  where  Wellington  stayed 
part  of  the  night  before  the  famous  struggle.  Here 
he  and  his  chief  officers  decided  to  attend  the 
Duchess  of  Richmond's  ball  to  prevent  sudden  sur- 
prise in  the  city  of  Brussels.  They  attended  the 
ball  as  if  nothing  important  was  transpiring. 
Wellington  left  at  midnight,  and  before  morning 
all  the  divisions  had  broken  up  their  encampments, 
and  were  on  the  march  to  meet  the  French. 

Our  driver  halts  to  give  us  time  to  go  inside  of 
the  chapel  containing  monuments  to  the  memory 
of  the  distinguished  officers   who  fell  during   the 


400  BRUSSELS  AND   WATERLOO. 

battle.  Approaching  Waterloo,  on  the  right  we 
pass  the  cottage  where  resided  Yictor  Hugo,  and 
where  he  w^ote  his  matchless  description  of  the 
engagement. 

Here  commences  a  strife  among  the  guides  to  see 
who  should  be  employed.  One  declared  that  his 
father  was  in  the  battle,  another  that  his  grandfather 
was  one  of  Napoleon's  generals.  Finally  one  pre- 
sents a  well  written  letter  from  Yictor  Hugo,  re- 
commending him  and  verifying  the  fact  that  this 
guide  accompanied  Hugo  through  all  his  studious 
wanderings  of  many  weeks  over  the  ground.  Ad- 
mitting the  truth  of  the  old  saying  "  the  last  is  the 
best,"  we  employed  him  and  were  soon  climbing 
up  the  steps  of  the  lofty  and  victorious  mound,  on 
the    summit   of  which    is  a   colossal   lion   lookino- 

o 

toward  France.  The  guide  now  takes  his  position 
facing  the  north,  and  commences  his  description. 
Turning  gradually  to  the  east,  south,  and  west  he 
pours  forth  a  torrent  of  words,  stopping  every 
little  while  to  take  breath.  His  "  speech  would 
have  done  credit  to  a  Sumner  or  a  Disraeli. 


BRi'SSELS  AND   WATERLOO.  4Q| 

'^  There  stands  the  Ilougoumont.  To  the  right  La 
Haye  Sainte.  Yonder  swept  down  the  brave  High- 
landers carrying  everything  before  them.  In  that 
deep  ditch  fell  the  fiercely  charging  French  unseen 
by  their  commander,  until  it  was  filled  with  men 
and  horses  fi3rming  a  level  surface  over  which 
charged  the  contending  armies.  That  distant  rise 
of  ground  was  taken  and  retaken  four  or  five 
times.  Where  we  stand  the  Prince  of  Orange  fell 
wounded.  That  monument  is  the  place  where  the 
courageous  Hanoverians  struggled.  The  other 
one  marks  the  death  of  Colonel  Gordon. 

Along  that  road  came  Napoleon  galloping,  sure 
that  he  had  carried  the  day.  Over  those  distant 
woods  rolled  the  dust  of  Blucher^s  swiftly  advanc- 
ing army  whose  presence  decided  the  struggle.'' 
Thus  the  description  went  on.  The  speaker  be- 
coming more  and  more  eloquent,  his  voice  growing 
louder  and  his  manner  more  excited  until  we 
almost  fancied  that  we  heard  the  roar  of  cannon 
and  actually  saw  the  smoke  of  the  battle. 

It  was  the  unanimous  opinion    that  our  guide 


402  BRUSSELS  AXD  WATERLOO. 

had  well  earned  his  five  francs,  from  each  one,  which 
was  willingly  paid  him. 

After  a  limited  time  in  the  Museum,  filled  with 
relics  of  Waterloo,  we  journey  back  to  Brussels. 


CHAPTEH  LI  I. 

ANTWERP  AND  THE  NORTH  SEA. 

'NTWERP  being  the  last  place  of  our  sojourn 
h  on  the  Continent,  a  few  days  will  be  de- 
Mfm.  voted  to  this  antique  city,  and  then  good-bye 
to  the  palaces,  cathedrals,  and  galleries  of 
art,  of  the  Old  World.  Our  journey  through  Scot- 
land and  Ireland  will  be  rapid,  the  main  purpose 
being  to  observe  the  condition  and  characteristics 
of  the  people  and  the  scenery  of  the  two  countries. 
Antwerp  was  an  ancient  city  at  the  height  of  its 
prosperity  three  or  four  centuries  ago,  when  it  was 
the  first  commercial  city  of  Europe,  having  some- 
times two  and  three  thousand  ships  of  all  nations 
in  its  harbor  at  once,  and  a  population  of  some 
200,000.  In  1576  it  was  sacked  by  the  Spaniards, 
and  burned.     In  1588  it  was  captured  by  Prince 


404  ANTWERP  AND  THE  NORTH  SEA. 

Alexander  of  Parma,  and  two  hundred  years  after, 
it  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  French. 

Although  the  greatness  of  this  once  powerful 
city  has  departed,  it  still  contains  much  that  cannot 
fail  to  instruct  and  interest  the  tourist.  There  are 
fine  collections  of  the  works  of  Rubens  and  Yan- 
dych.  The  latter  was  born  here.  The  celebrated 
chef  d'oeuvre,  Tlie  Descent  from  the  Cross ^  in  the 
Cathedral,  painted  by  Rubens,  is  one  of  the  finest 
by  that  master.  The  life-like  appearance  of  all  the 
figures,  and  the  naturalness  of  their  positions  as 
they  tenderly  lower  the  Savior  from  the  cross,  can- 
not be  surpassed.  In  the  square  fronting  our  hotel 
is  a  well  executed  statue  of  the  immortal  painter, 
and  on  the  Rue  de  Rubens  is  the  house  where  Ru- 
bens died.  As  we  wander  through  the  handsome 
church  of  St.  Jaques,  and  come  to  the  vault  con- 
taining Rubens  and  his  family,  I  cannot  but  be  im- 
pressed with  the  thought  that  although  nearly  three 
hundred  years  have  intervened  since  the  master 
painter  was  born,  his  works  still  live,  and  bear  over 
the  world  the  inextinguishable  fame  of  the  artist. 


ANTWERP  AND  THE  NORTH  SEA.  4Q5 

While  in  tlie  Cathedral  of  Notre  Dame,  a  funeral 
procession  enters  and  marches  under  the  lofty  arches 
of  this  grand  and  solemn  temple.  The  organ  sends 
forth  its  sublime  music,  while  the  choir  responds  to 
its  tones.  As  they  approach  the  high  altar,  on 
which  flicker  dim  lights,  and  deposit  the  burial  case, 
the  throng  falls  back  on  either  side,  and  remains 
transfixed,  while  the  solemn  requiem  is  recited  for 
the  repose  of  the  dead. 

The  house  of  Charlas  the  Fifth,  like  many  others 
in  Antwerp,  is  a  grotesque  combination  of  architec- 
ture, with  high  gables  tapering  to  a  pinnacle  in 
which  are  six,  and  sometimes  seven  rows  of  windows. 

The  facade  of  the  houses  are  adorned  with  quaint 

« 
old  tracery  dating  back  to  the  days  when  the  Span- 
iards were  the  rulers. 

I  am  much  pleased  with  the  markets  and  amused 
with  the  market  women,  who  are  so  oddly  dressed. 
They  wear  on  their  heads  a  comically  shaped  bon- 
net, being  made  of  stravv^  the  front  turned  up 
and  lined,  and  a  cape  of  straw  with  a  very  broad 
ribbon  placed  on  plainly  above  it.      In  traveling 


^QQ  ANTWERP  AND  THE  NORTH  SEA. 

one  will  continually  come  in  contact  with  the  sub- 
lime and  ridiculous.  The  markets  here,  as  in  most 
of  the  European  cities,  are  in  the  open  squares,  and 
when  all  the  stands  and  wagons  are  piled  high 
with  tempting  fruits  and  fresh  vegetables,  I  am 
reminded  of  the  horticultural  fairs  and  festivals  in 
my  own  native  country.  Every  article  is  handled 
with  that  care  and  neatness  which  we  have  observed 
in  all  the  markets  since  landing  in  Austria. 

To-night,  while  sitting  in  my  room,  a  soft  and 
gentle  voice  commenced  singing  sweetly  beneath 
the  window.  It  rose  and  died  away  upon  the  eve- 
ning air  like  music  from  some  fairy  land.  One  after 
another  plaintive  German  air  was  breathed  forth. 
Throwing  up  the  sash,  I  saw  in  the  dim  light  of  the 
street  lamp  a  poorly  clad  woman  looking  wistfully 
at  my  window.  Money  was  a  poor  reward,  for  that 
sweet  voice  will  ever  linger  around  me,  although 
I  shall  never  hear  the  street  singer  of  Antwerp 
again. 

After  viewing  the  King's  Palace,  we  take  passage 
on  a  small  iron  steamer,  and  glide  down  between 


ANTWERP  AND  THE  NORTH  SEA.  4q^ 

the  level  shores  of  the  Scheldt,  out  upon  the  German 
Ocean,  on  our  way  to  Newcastle  on  the  Tyne. 

The  afternoon  is  fair  and  lovely,  and  as  the  de- 
clining sun  sinks  beneath  the  western  horizon,  we 
have  only  thoughts  of  a  pleasant  voyage.  About 
midnight  a  violent  commotion  on  board  told  us  that 
a  gale  had  sprung  up,  and  our  little  steamer  was 
struggling  with  a  heavy  sea. 

To-day  is  a  gloomy  Sunday ;  the  gale  has  been 
increasing  all  day,  until  it  blows  a  hurricane.  Our 
captain  informs  us  that  the  sails  are  blown  to  shreds, 
and  the  steamer  is  laboring  heavily.  He  also  tells 
us  that  he  dare  not  approach  the  shores  of  England 
as  long  as  the  gale  is  blowing,  and  we  are  therefore 
heading  out  to  sea.  An  attempt  was  made  by  the 
captain  to  eat  his  dinner,  sitting  on  the  floor  of  the 
cabin ;  but  a  heavy  sea  striking  the  ship,  he  was 
rolled  with  the  dishes  and  dinner  into  one  corner 
of  the  room.  All  night  long  the  furious  gale  con- 
tinued, and  there  was  some  fear  expressed  by  the 
officers  that  we  would  not  ride  out  the  storm. 

The   third    day  the  wind  subsided,  and  we  ap- 
22 


408  ANTWERP  AXD  THE  NORTH  SEA. 

proached  the  coast  and  sailed  up  the  busy  Tjne, 
thankful  that  we  had  arrived  in  safety. 

The  North  Sea  is  noted  for  its  severe  storms,  and 
this  one  has  been  of  unusual  severity.  The  English 
papers  were  filled  for  days  with  accounts  of  terrible 
shipwrecks  and  loss  of  life  along  the  coast  of  Eng- 
land during  this  gale. 

We  are  once  more  in  an  English  city,  as  the  smoke 
and  immense  iron  manufactories  indicate.  There 
;are  many  massive  and  elegant  buildings  in  New- 
castle, but  all  are  darkly  colored  and  their  beauty 
spoiled  by  the  everlasting  smoke.  After  one  day's 
rest  here,  we  take  the  cars  for  Melrose  Abbey,  Ab- 
botsford,  Edinburgh,  and  the  Highlands  of  Scot- 
land. 


CHAPTER     LIII. 

SCOTLAND. 

T  twelve  o'clock  we  leave  Newcastle. 
Passing  swiftly  by  the  Duke  of  Northumber- 
land's place,  we  are  soon  surrounded  by 
Scottish  scenery.  The  fields  are  divided 
by  hawthorn  hedges  or  low  stone  walls,  and  the 
green  velvety  hills  abound  with  flocks.  In  each 
farm-yard  are  numbers  of  hay-stacks  put  up  with 
care  and  crossed  with  ropes.  Humble  cottages  are 
scattered  along  the  way. 

At  length  the  ancient  Abbey  of  Melrose  became 
visible  in  the  distance.  This  famous  auld  abbey, 
made  illustrious  by  the  description  in  Walter  Scott's 
"Lay  of  the  Last  Minstrel,"  stands  upon  the  banks 
of  the  Tweed.  One  cannot  but  admire  the  vener- 
able ruin.     It  is  one  of  the  choicest  specimens  of 


410  SCOTLAND, 

the  gotliic  style.  There  are  remains  of  splendid 
carvings,  and  its  gargoyles  and  corhels  still  retain 
their  position  and  perfect  workmanship.  The  floor 
is  of  grass,  and  the  sky  is  the  roof  There  are 
traces  of  the  cloisters  and  of  the  monastic  buildings. 
This  was  the  favorite  resort  of  Sir  Walter  Scott, 
who  copied  many  of  its  quaint  gargoyles  for  the 
decoration  of  Abbotsford,  his  beautiful  residence. 
The  roofless  walls  of  Melrose  Abbey  are  many  of 
them  thickly  overgrown  with  ivy,  and  the  appear- 
ance of  the  ruin  by  moonlight  is  dreamy  and  ro- 
mantic in  the  extreme. 

From  Melrose  to  Abbotsford  is  a  pleasant  drive  of 
three  or  four  miles.  Arriving  in  the  vestibule,  you 
see  on  a  table  a  huge  hand-bell  which  you  ring  if 
you  are  hardy  enough,  and  a  servant  appears  to 
conduct  you  through  the  fine  mansion  of  Sir  Wal- 
ter. He  is  an  excellent  guide,  possessing  the  most 
rare  qualifications  of  those  of&cials  —  he  knows  when 
to  hold  his  tongue  —  and  is  withal  so  full  of  infor- 
mation, and  so  polite  and  gentlemanly,  that  you  feel 
almost  ashamed  to  offer  him  a  fee  for  his  services. 


SCOTLAND.  412 

He  takes  it  of  course,  and  thanks  you,  not  seeming 
wounded  in  his  dignity  in  the  least.  So  accustomed 
is  the  tourist  to  giving  sixpences  and  shillings  that 
he  hardly  knows  when  it  is  proper  to  omit  the  cus- 
tom. One  irreverent  countryman  of  mine,  being 
on  Windsor  Terrace  when  the  Queen  and  one  of  the 
'  princesses  took  an  airing  there,  declared  that  his 
first  impulse  was  to  offer  her  majesty  a  shilling, 
whiclx.  he  declared  he  was  fully  persuaded  would  be 
received  with  the  inevitable  smile  and  "  thank  you, 


sir." 


Abbotsford  was  once  an  old  cloister,  but  the 
present  house  and  grounds  are  entirely  the  work  of 
Sir  Walter  It  is  surrounded  by  beautiful  scenery, 
and  the  interior  of  the  mansion  is  rich  in  collections 
of  armor  and  fine  paintings,  and  the  library  is  very 
extensive  and  valuable.  The  place  is  now  occupied 
by  the  only  surviving  grand- daughter  of  the  great 
writer.  In  the  library  there  are  elegant  glass  cases 
filled  with  curiosities  and  presents  from  distinguished 
persons  —  among  them  a  splendid  snuff-box  from  Na- 
poleon I.    Over  the  library  door  is  a  picture  of  Mary, 


412  SCOTLAND. 

Queen  of  Scots,  after  she  was  beheaded — that  is,  a 
picture  of  the  severed  head.  It  is  far  less  "  pretti- 
fied" than  most  of  the  representations  of  her,  and 
strikes  the  beholder  at  once  as  a  true  portrait. 
While  looking  at  this  life-like  portrait,  and  reflect- 
ing upon  the  cares  of  the  unfortunate  Mary,  I  must 
confess  that  there  is  that  in  the  expression  of  the 
foce  which  speaks  eloquently  to  the  hearts  of  sym- 
pathizers with  the  unhappy  queen. 

Leading  out  from  the  library  on  the  right  is  the 
private  study  of  Sir  Walter,  with  his  leather-covered 
chair  and  table  just  as  he  last  used  them.  Near 
the  table  is  a  chair  made  from  the  wood  of  the 
house  where  Wallace  was  betrayed.  This  study  is 
richly  furnished  to  the  ceiling  with  books,  ap- 
proached by  an  elegant  iron  staircase  leading  to 
galleries  that  extend  all  around  the  room.  At  the 
left  as  you  enter  the  study  is  a  very  small  room  or 
closet  which  Sir  Walter  called  his  '^  speah-a-hity 
In  this  is  a  cast  of  his  head  taken  after  death.  The 
one  thing  noticeable  about  this  cast,  and  ever  to  be 
remembered,    is   the   extraordinary  length    of    ^ho 


SCOTLAND.  413 

upper  lip.  The  head,  as  everybody  knows,  is  ex- 
tremely high,  but  uot  wide  in  proportion.  The 
guide  offered  stereoscopic  views  of  this  bust  which 
1  have  never  seen  for  sale  anywhere  else. 

This  morninor  the  Scotch  mist  is  fallino;,  but  it 
does  not  prevent  our  seeing  the  city  of  Edinburgh. 

Edinburgh  abounds  with  historic  associations  dear 
to  the  heart  of  every  Scotchman.  It  is  truly  a 
grand  city.  From  Calton  Hill  the  finest  view  is 
afforded.  Princes  street,  with  its  elegant  stores  and 
hotels,  stretches  far  away  through  the  center  of 
Edinburgh. 

In  a  prettily  laid-out  square  on  Princes  street  is 
the  lofty  gothic  monument  of  Sir  Walter  Scott, 
adorned  with  scenes  in  high  relief  from  his  roman- 
ces. Meg  Merrilies  is  of  course  the  most  striking  of 
the  characters,  and  the  figure  is  admirably  done. 

Towering  high  above  the  city  oh  the  summit  of 
a  rock  from  four  to  five  hundred  feet  perpendicular 
height,  is  Edinburgh  Castle.  This  is  an  ancient 
fortress  erected  by  Edward  the  Second,  of  England, 
and  many  times  in  the  history  of  this  fortress  have 


414  SCOTLAND. 

the  flags  of  Scotland  and  of  England  floated  alter- 
nately from  its  tower.  This  rock  and  fortress  give 
the  town  a  very  picturesque  appearance.  Edinburgh 
is  often  called  the  "Athens  of  Scotland." 

We  walk  down  Cannongate  street  to  the  house 
of  John  Knox.  Over  the  door  is  the  following  in- 
scription :  "Love  the  Lord  above  all,  and  thy 
neighbor  as  thyself"  The  great  reformer  is  buried 
in  the  cemetery  of  St.  Giles  Cathedral.  His  house 
is  a  dilapidated  looking  building,  and  at  one  of  the 
windows  is  a  figure  representing  him,  and  indicating 
the  place  from  which  he  preached  to  the  populace. 

The  University  is  one  of  the  finest  in  Eurojoe,  and 
has  in  its  library  nearly  one  hundred  and  fifty  thou- 
sand volumes. 

Edinburgh  has  numerous  churches,  many  of  which 
are  well  known  in  America,  through  their  earnest 
and  able  preachers  who  have  occupied  our  pulpits 
at  various  times. 

Holyrood  Palace  is  a  massive  old  structure,  well 
identified  with  the  history  of  Scotland.  In  its  gal- 
leries are  the  mythical  portraits  of  one  hundred  and 


SCOTLAND.  4][5 

six  Scottish  Kings.  The  most  important  of  all  the 
rooms  is  the  one  once  occupied  by  Mary,  Queen  of 
Scots.  We  are  told  that  everything  we  see  is  just 
as  it  was  placed  by  herself  On  a  small  table  is  her 
work-box  embroidered  with  silk,  the  design  being 
Jacob's  Ladder.  This  the  unfortunate  Mary  worked 
•  when  she  was  but  twelve  years  of  age.  The  cov- 
ering of  the  chairs  were  also  needle- worked  by  her. 
Beside  the  bed  stands  the  infant  basket  of  her  son, 
James  the  Sixth.  Her  dressing  room  is  hung  with 
old  tapestry,  and  in  another  room  is  the  stone  on 
which  Darnley  and  the  beautiful  Mary  knelt  when 
they  were  married.  Another  room  is  pointed  out 
as  the  one  where  Eizzio  was  murdered.  The  blood 
stains  are  still  shown.  Here  also  is  the  chamber 
where  King  James  was  aroused  from  his  sleep  at 
midnight,  by  the  swift-flying  courier  who  informed 
him  of  the  death  of  Queen  Elizabeth.  What  memories 
cluster  around  one  while  visiting  these  old  castles 
and  palaces  in  Scotland  and  England !  England  is 
a  great'  and  powerful  nation,  and  at  present  her 
government  is  one  of  the  wisest  and  best  upon  the 


416  SCOTLAND. 

earth ;  but  wliat  a  liistory  have  England  and  Scot- 
land! The  strifes,  envies,  jealousies,  and  ambitions 
of  her  Kings  and  Queens  have  been  the  cause  of 
crimes  and  sufferings  enough  to  appall  the  stoutest 
heart. 

To-day  is  Sunday,  and  as  the  bells  toll  the  hour 
of  service  everything  breathes  a  spirit  of  calm 
repose.  Old  and  young  are  Trending  their  way 
slowly  to  the  kirks. 

"  Slowly  the  throng  moves  o'er  the  tomb-paved  gi'ound, 
The  aged  man,  the  bowed  down,  the  blind. 
Led  by  the  thoughtless  boy,  and  he  who  breathes 
"With  pain,  and  eyes  the  new-made  grave  well  pleased; 
These,  mingled  with  the  young,  the  gay,  approach 
The  house  of  God  ;  these,  spite  of  their  ills, 
A  glow  of  gladness  feel ;  with  silent  piaise 
They  enter  in  ;  a  placid  stillness  reigns 
Until  the  man  of  God,  worthy  the  name, 
Opens  the  book  and  reverentially 
The  stated  portion  reads." 

The  preacher  has  made  a  solemn  and  effective 
appeal  both  morning  and  afternoon ;  and  as  the 
congregation  quietly  disperse  each  one  wears  a  look 


SCOTLAND.  4]^  7 

of  Christian  though tfuln ess,  showing  that  the  lessons 
of  the  hour  have  not  been  unheeded. 

The  sun  is  going  down,  but  its  golden  light  still 
lingers  upon  the  uplands,  and  as  night  spreads  her 
sable  mantle,  it  closes  a  day  whose  hours  have  been 
full,  rich,  and  peaceful — my  first  Sunday  in  Chris- 
tian Scotland. 


CHAPTER   LIV. 

FROM    SCOTLAND    AND    IRELAND,    HOME. 

^@HE     famous     Highlands   of    Scotland    are 

^^.y.^^^  more   interesting   to  lovers  of  Scott's  ro- 

<^t5~l^   mances  and  sono^s  tlian  to   others.     There 


r* 


'&" 


is  hardly  a  lake,  or  mountain,  or  glen  not 
immortalized  by  him.  '^Ellen's  Isle,"  "  Lanrick 
Mead,"  "  The  Trossack's  Gorge,"  and  numberless 
other  places  connected  with  The  Lady  of  the  Lake 
and  other  works  of  his,  are  eagerly  visited  by  trav- 
elers. The  mountains,  Ben  Nevis,  Ben  Avon,  Ben 
Lomond,  Ben-y-Gloe  and  the  numerous  lakes  or 
lochs  are  visited  by  stage  coaches  during  the  sum- 
mer. The  scenery  is  grand  and  wild.  From  the 
Highlands  and  the  Highlanders,  the  lochs  and  bens, 
we  arrive  at  Glasgow  by  the  Caledonian  railway. 
Glasgow  is  very  different  in  appearance  from  Edin- 


.  FROM  SCOTLAND  AND  IRELAyD,  HOME.  4^9 

burgh.  It  is  located  upon  the  banks  of  the  Clyde. 
and  is  the  chief  commercial  city  of  Scotland.  In 
one  of  the  squares  is  a  fine  equestrian  statue  of 
Queen  Victoria  and  one  of  the  Prince  of  Wales. 

The  Cathedral  of  Glasgow  is  surrounded  with 
associations  connecting  it  intimately  with  the  his- 
tory of  Scotland.  It  now  belongs  to  the  Protes- 
tants. Surrounding  it  is  an  extensive  burying 
ground.  Among  the  monuments  is  one  erected  .j 
the  memory  of  John  Knox.  It  is  in  this  Cathedral 
that  part  of  the  scenes  of  Rob  Roy  was  laid.  The 
Royal  Exchange,  the  Bank  of  Scotland,  and  the 
parks  are  all  vf  orthy  of  being  visited.  From  Glasgow 
the  sail  down  the  Clyde  is  remarkable,  from  the  fact 
that  along  its  shores  can  be  seen  in  process  of  con- 
struction so  many  of  the  great  iron  steamships 
which  are  now  found  on  every  ocean  a^nd  every  sea. 

Bidding  '-'' giide  hye^^  to  the  land  of  Robert  Burns 
we  cross  the  channel  to  Ireland.  The  country  through 
which  we  travel  is  enlivening,  for  Ireland  is  not  the 
commonplace  country  that  some  suppose.  The  air 
is  delip-htful  and  invio:oratino^.     Most  of  the  land  is 


420  FROM  SCOTLAND  AND  IRELAND,  HOME. 

devoted  to  grazing  purposes,  and  flocks  of  superior 
horses,  cattle,  and  sheep  are  cropping  the  smooth 
tender  grass.  Here  and  there  is  the  usual  hut.  It  is 
made  of  stone  and  sometimes  whitewashed.  It  has 
a  thatched  roof  often  overgrown  Avith  moss,  and 
there  is  one  door  and  generally  one  window.  Each 
house  has  a  small  patch  of  vegetables  and  the  inevi- 
table pig  and  cow. 

I  can  hardly  realize  that  this  small  island  has  fur- 
nished the  vast  multitude  of  Irish  emigrants  which 
has  been  pouring  upon  the  shores  of  America  for 
the  past  fifty  years. 

Arriving  at  Dublin  we  find  a  magnificent  city. 
Sackville  street,  its  principal  thoroughfare,  almost 
equals  Broadway,  New  York,  the  Strand  or  Oxford 
Street,  London,  or  the  Boulevards  of  Paris. 

Dublin  has  many  fine  buildings,  the  Custom 
House  on  the  bank  of  the  Liifey,  ranking  first. 
Near  the  Bank  of  Ireland  is  the  celebrated  Trinity 
College  from  which  have  emanated  some  of  the  most 
learned  scholars  of  modern  times.  The  students 
wear  a  peculiar  flat  black  hat.  which  does  not  add 


FROM  SCOTLAND  AND  IRELAND,  HOME.  ^Oj 

much  to  their  appearance,  but  as  this  hat  marks 
them  as  being  students  of  Truiitj  College  they  as- 
sume much  arrogance  in  wearing  it.  We  attend 
service  at  St.  Patrick's  Cathedral.  Its  isles  are 
crowded  with  richly- attired  and  well-bred  people. 

Dublin  prides  itself  upon  its  aristocracy. 

In  Dublin  I  have  my  first  experience  in  riding  in 
the  jaunting  car  peculiar  to  Ireland.  The  Irishman 
terms  it  "a  cab  with  wheels  inside."  Holding 
from  three  to  four  persons  they  go  flying  up  and 
down  every  street,  and  it  requires  some  practice  to 
remain  comfortably  seated  without  falling  off 
After  inspecting  Dublin  castle,  the  residence  of  the 
Lord  Lieutenant  of  Ireland,  we  call  at  Kildare, 
Limerick,  Blarney  Castle,  and  Cork. 

At  Cork  the  guide  leads  the  way  to  the  church  of 
the  Holy  Trinity,  Father  Mathew's  church,  his  statue, 
and  the  Queen's  College!^ 

From  Cork  we  sail  down  the  lovely  "Silver  Lee." 
On  either  side  are  the  ivy  and  moss  covered  ruins  of 
old  castles  and  towers.     We  listen  involuntarily  for 


422  FROM  SCOTLAND  AND  IRELAND,  HOME. 

"  The  bells  of  Shanclon 

That  sound  so  grand  on 

The  jDleasant  waters  of  the  Silver  Lee." 

Arrivino:  at  the  Cove  of  Cork,  or  Queenstown  as 
it  is  no^y  called,  v\^e  remain  for  two  days  at  tlie 
Queen's  Hotel,  our  windows  looking  out  upon  one 
of  the  finest  harbors  in  the  world. 

This  clear  and  crisp  November  morning  we  see 
the  powerful  steamer  which  is  to  bear  us  across  the 
ocean  lying  quietly  at  anchor  in  the  offing. 

Going  on  board  \\q,  find  our  stateroom  in  order 
awaiting  our  coming,  having  been  secured  in  Liver- 
pool by  telegraph. 

Through  storm  and  calm  we  are  borne  swiftly 
back  to  our  native  land,  and  my  great  journey  is 
ended.  As  1  lay  down  my  pen  I  may  add  that 
through  all  the  different  countries  which  we  have 
traveled,  whether  among  the  sturdy  Britons  or  the 
hardy  Alpine  mountaineers,  the  happy  Germans  or 
the  more  reserved  Russians,  among  the  swarthy 
Turks  and  Egyptians  and  even  among  the  wild 
Arabs   of  Syria,    we   have  been  kindly  received. 


FROM  SCOTLAND  AND  IRELAND,  HOME.  ^23 

Access  has  been  granted  us  to  palaces  and  private 
residences  of  the  Old  World  and  the  more  sacred 
places  of  the  Orient,  simply  because  wo  were 
Americans. 

I  am  grateful  that  it  has  been  my  fortune  and 
pleasure  to  have  seen  this  majestic  and  sublime  pan- 
orama of  the  different  nations,  kindred,  and  tongues 
of  the  world;  and  the  lessons  and  experiences 
which  I  have  learned,  will  go  with  me  until  I  am 
called  to  start  on  that  inevitable  and  mysterious 
journey  from  which  no  messages  are  sent  back 
and  from  which  no  traveler  ever  returns. 

"  Coelura  lion  auimum  mutant  qui  trans  mare  current." 


23 


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